lol Yep. Then too I find I need 2 or 3 of any tool just so I can find ONE when I need it... lent, "borrowed", hiding. Darn things just won't stay put when I put them down ;-) ...oh, and with cordless you can't braid at all, and they tend to wander even further lol

👏🤣

Plus your air hoses tied in with them :(

I guess i need to return my cordless Milwaukee

@@robekstrom2736 Yep, cordless is cheating.

Absolutely true lol!

Looks like a simple wooden jig with 2 adjustable clamps that he simply tightens in a vice. Clever and simple. :)

Definitely make rhe jig vid please!

What he said

I second the paint drying sentiment. Please make a video.

Wranglerstar is not a channel I follow, I'm not really interested in the VLOG part as a lot of the drama seems to be self inflected by a certain mindset, and a lot of other content also seems clickbait rather than useful or covers fancy toys. But to be fair to its creators they are not really in a jobsite type context, and do seem to list a lot of the theory and step by step care and maintenance type things that are important to know, yet most DIY folks who aren't tradesmen often don't.

Wranglestar is a toxic person. I agree, this channel is true experience and down to earth knowledge

Wranglestar, and PLFL, too! 😂

Did you ever watch an Ave video--its like the polar opposite of that philosophy...

Wranglerstar is a religious weirdo, that is a diyer. This guy is a professional.

I Had A Bad Day Wife: "Honey, I don't care that you have 18 angle grinders but it irritates me that you hate changing wheels!"

Your wife might tell you that if you change your wheels every few times you use the grinder, it doesn't tighten up too hard, and you can usually remove the wheel with your bare hand. Just make sure you don't press the trigger while you're at it! Edit: and make sure you only tighten it by hand, that's important. Sounds like bullshit but it works for almost everything. Only exception is if your grinder has a really fast brake on it and the wheel is really heavy, like a big wire wheel cup or something. In that case, they'll sometimes spin themselves off when the grinder is slowing down. Usually not a huge problem cuz it'll be slowed down, but it's inconvenient. In that situation, tighten it up properly with a wrench.

If she ever sees them and asks, just tell her “well this one here is a left angle grinder, this one’s a right, this other one is a 90 degree grinder...etc

I Had A Bad Day I’m buying more just for that reason.

@@keithklassen5320 yeah okay I don't know what kind of grinder you use ???? But the tightening mechanism whatever it maybe is 99.9% always reverse of the rotation of the grinder..

How can the engineers not have chosen to have Variable speed? I didn't know angle grinders have that. When my DeWalt gives up I'll look for variable speed

@@86Raxor no paddle. Just a off on switch. Not as safe.

I bought a 3 foot long dimmer cable for $3 and control my speed with that. Works on fans, saws, grinders, lights, and anything else you can imagine.

@@nevinkuser9892some shit don’t like that

Good tip!!

that's only if you don't have the guard on. And good quality cutting disks are both flexible and tough enough to take a fair bit of abuse without shattering. It's all about the adhesive used. usually, disks made for stainless steel are much better quality, albeit a little more expensive.

Noone in my yard uses guards on their grinders. nor do i, most of the time you're rushing and putting to much weight on the disc and it shatters. inexperience kills more often than not.

No shit. Thanks for saying!

Bingo that is a great point!

Yes and no... You can actually save money owning multiple grinders if you buy junkers for the junk projects that you know will burn them up fast. A grinder running a wire wheel should cost no more than $40, ever, unless you a need a 7" because you're stripping a dump truck or something.

@@TheBrokenLife thats what a 9in grinder and wire wheel is for

This is my argument to people who don't want to buy snow tires. You can buy one set of tires that are ok in summer and terrible in winter and replace them every four years. Or you can buy snow tires and summer tires, both far better when you actually use them, and since you use them half as much they last twice as long. Roughly the same cost...you just have to swap tires twice a year.

@Drew Why stop there? Just get a couple thousand horsepower of air compressors and media blast it. Done in a jiffy! @Garrett McEwen Except it's extremely hard on tires to be mounted and dismounted over and over again. I subscribe to your philosophy, but I have 2 sets of rims too.

Or you could wear proper full face guard.

Guards are there for a reason

Yep. Only remove it if you absolutely have to and even then, you can probably just use a safer option tool wise. I've had grinding rocks and cutting discs just blow up on me randomly. Luckily it was always at work and I had safety glasses and a face shield on, but little particles of the rock and disc still cut my neck pretty good from impact. Not always, but most of the time when a disc or rock explodes, it is because someone has left it out in the weather and it is wet, or someone threw it in the bottom of a tool box and it got slightly damaged from other tools being thrown on top of them. It makes them very brittle when they get too wet and even the smallest amount of damage or chunk taken out of them can make them come apart when they get up to full speed. Once they are wet just toss them. Unless you have a bad gambling addiction, then your good. Lol.

Oh, and always store your grinding rocks/discs and cutting discs in a dry place away from possibly getting wet, smashed or damaged by other tools being thrown on top of them.

exactly...outsourced materials and so long as the last step is done here they stamp it made in usa. Its an import.

Assembled....kinda like most anything else made here and abroad. Globally sourced parts. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iOCoh5yhu9TNgI0.html Kudos to Dewalt for making an effort

There is a letter from the owner of Maglite bemoaning the made in USA standard because he presently cannot source all of his parts in the US, so he has to use some imported parts. maglite.com/maglab/made-in-california-but-not-the-usa/#.XBVbf81MHtQ

@@nathanmuenks4805 I think there are some made in the USA lights, but instead of $19.99-$39.99 at Walmart they're $100-$200+ and not in big box stores.

I figure on the tape measures that they show up complete from China and they screw the tape clip on here in the USA and say it was assembled here.

Metabo could sell me on the kick-back safety alone... kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z9eKq5lz3bmmko0.html

same. none of the other brands will last as long as the metabo will. that being said, i own two grinders, the metabo has no guard (the lugs sheared, i rescued it from the dumpster) and is for doing actual ironwork, the dewalt has a guard and gets used when a guard is needed (rarely) or i'm going to plunge it into grease and nastiness (far more often).

When I started my 1st welding job just out of weld school I purchased a 4-1/2” B&D Professional. I must say back then B&D built some of their power tools tough. It is still working today despite a broken spindle lock pin 37 years later. Nowadays I would agree with your choice or Milwaukee, Mikita or Dewalt, as long as it has a paddle switch or pull trigger switch.

Don't you mean DeWilt?

@@bradcavanagh3092 it's a saying that you tuber AVE uses at the end of his videos but uses a different word than DeWalt

@@a-carpenter9229 I know. I making a play on how he calls tool brands by different names.

Good tie in, AvE fan.

Always run into you scumbags down here in the comments of EC, TOT and abom Vijayos. How's it going my friends in low places?

Wow lol, I was reading this and when you said you still use it without the guard I thought to myself “this guy is an idiot!”. Then I see you are a roofer and i could help but to laugh out loud.

Benjamin Blake Thanks for your kind words. I hope you have a blessed day :-)

@@benjaminblake6821 he wrote: "I put the guard back on and left it that way. " But there are times when using an angle grinder without the guard is the only way possible. That's what safety gear is for.

terry Sullivan Correct you are. The only way I'm willing to use a thin cut off wheel without a guard now is welders gloves, full-face shield, and my welding jacket on :-) if that piece of blown up wheel had hit my neck instead of my chest, the outcome could have been a whole lot different

It's also always wise to keep your face, and anything else you hold particularly dear, out of the line of the wheel. Your cut will be plenty straight enough with your head 1" off the center line.

I store all my important paperwork in my trash can. Very efficient.

I don't read them, but do file them with a copy of the purchase receipt. You may want a replacement part or warranty repair someday.

Good idea

Joe Palazzo as long as you change your socks before the tool overheats🤪

Yup very good idea. , Add a tube sock over the air intake to reduce gunk in the ..schmoo ?.. motor ! If it gets hot , ditch it .

Works well with nylons it's like a machine air filter....

I removed it from one of my grinders ,reason was explained in video,tight spot for cutting ,and that extra cm i could get by removing guard it helped me to finish get the job done.If u know how to hold grinder while working,plus using thick gloves ,doesn't matter u have guard or not ,if disk shatters to peaces nothing will happen to you.

Never take the guard off. Ever. I'm a welder and known too many people use it without a guard and it decapitates them. Yes it get in the way, yes it slows you down, but a chunk of a cut off wheel in your throat will slow you down alot more. Dont be a goober.

Same here. I do modify em , I keep em about 270 degrees and about 1/4 " tall !

I usually have the guard off for grinding, and have it on for cutting. Have never seen a grinder wheel/flapper disc/sanding disk explode. I can get in places alot easier without a guard and can control the direction of sparks alot easier when grinding near windows etc on site. Since swapping to freud cutting wheels I very very rarely have one explode, but usually have the guard anyway for a precaution

@@oystercovecraftsman9219 Grinding wheels can explode too, but if it's not a crib death you can usually see it coming. Just keep an eye on how it's wearing and throw it away when you get a bad gut feeling. I still wouldn't use a 20 year old grinding wheel which had been stored under water.

Normally it only has to be the last manufacturing stage that its completed in the country claiming manufacture. This can be simply putting the thing into its final packaging sadly. I think it's just more marketing. Personally I'd like to see the origin of products stated as where the majority of the job was done. Then we'd be able to buy appropriately.

@@davidquirk8097 Check this video. I know most of the component are still made in China, but a lot of the assembling and the quality control is happening in the US. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m9N5fMyhlqy4eYE.html It's a shame we don't have a DeWalt factory in The Netherlands.

@@davidquirk8097 "Normally it only has to be the last manufacturing stage that its completed in the country claiming manufacture. " It's a bit more complicated than that amigo. www.ftc.gov/tips-advice/business-center/guidance/complying-made-usa-standard

@@KamfaKing thanks for that, I'll have a proper read later. I'm always happy to learn more, to correct my misunderstanding.

Just say it.... china...

That's a great idea!!

Yep. I enjoy Scott's videos. And while I'm just a semi-handy DYI-er, I also have a Dewalt angle grinder, which I like (and one is all I'll ever need). But I'm guessing that Scott and I would agree: My grandkids are my real treasure.

I am a industrial maintenance and repair tech. I work for a company in Belgium that does revisions, repairs, maintenance and even tailor makes machinery and entire production lines for the customer. Arcelor Mittal, Volvo, Coca Cola and the ministery of defense are among our customers. We often work on massive, heavy and expensive gear. So it can be quite a demanding job at times. As we often have to improvise and work in very awkward positions in places we don’t know (yet). While still being careful and vigilant to not get crushed, electrocuted, fall or damage the equipment. (Like aligning a massive electric motor to its gearbox on a 45m high tower while I can’t hear myself think thanks to wind and rain lol) Angle grinders along with impact wrenches, drills and a corded hammer drill are part of our daily used standard equipment, often we have to dislodge broken or badly cared for equipment to get it out of there. I have done a lot of grinding both on side and in the shop when working on a part for the customer. Sometimes even from 7-4 that I’ve grinded an entire day. My 2c, Bosch sucks ass. If you wanna spend money on a EU tool brand, buy Metabo. They make way better grinders. We buy Bosch professional tools, the standard model we use is the 125mm, 1700W “heavy duty” model. I have on one instance thrown out 4 of these in 2 months. Yes they suffer and work hard. But so do our Metabo’s and Makita’s. And they don’t die at nearly the same rate as our Bosch tools. They seem to be not as well-balanced as the Metabo’s either and they have cheaper, shorter cords. My Metabo for home use is a 1300W paddle switch one, it has a 4m cord of H07 class cord. Which is good, Bosch uses H05 (lower protection class) on some of their grinders. The cords are also something that tends to break down quickly on these. They are not terrible, but Metabo is imo better and similarly if not slightly higher priced. Fein is excellent but very expensive. We have a few specialist tools from them and they last very well. Lastly, a thumb switch or as we call them a “suicide switch” is practical and easy as you don’t have to depress it constantly. But then again if you fuck up and that thing is tearing in your flesh at 10.000rpm you want it to shut off when you let go. As you might no longer have the presence of mind to flick the switch. I prefer paddle switches, however they can be tiresome if you are grinding for many hours. A rat tail is ideal. If you buy a larger one (230mm blade) plse get one with a dead mans switch that will shut off when released. A colleague of mine almost lost a leg to one of these while working in the basement of a nuclear plant. We carried him outside and put pressure bandages on his leg to stop the bleeding. At the ER they told us that if he had cut 3cm further he would have hit his artery and been dead before he left the basement. They won’t fire up on their own, thats not something to worry about. Nice thing about the thumb switch ones is that you can put them in a vise and use them as a makeshift bench grinder, if you intend to buy a grinder for that purpose I would take a thumb switch. If not, nope. Paddle switch or rat tail. (Boss keeps buying the blue stuff, but we have told him many times to go with Makita or Metabo. But hey, its his money 🤷‍♂️)

@@claudyfocan731 I particularly like the suicide thumb switch, because it allows me to grip the angle grind in such a way that commands most control. With paddle or rat tail switches, you're limited to where your hand is by the switch, where I can safely grip the thumb switch one close to head for precision work. Also, it's was easier for one handed applications we all do, even though the OSHA doesn't approve. Although, my angle grinders do work way less and it's a much easier job, basically just cutting thin metal tubing and plates no thicker than 10mm. I've found blue Bosch is good enough for professional use, and their warranty is impeccable. My place will take the broken tools basically no questions asked, and either they fix it or you get new ones, all within a week maybe. So after 2 years of warranty, they've paid off completely.

@@lazar2175 i agree to the switch part, it is more practical and works a lot easier in some situations. But I still care a great deal about my personal safety lol, regardless of my job. We found out that Blue Bosch just doesn’t cut it for heavy industrial use.

@@claudyfocan731 The Metabo/Hitachi is the king in my opinion, it's slightly more expensive in the beginning but it's so worth it. German and Japanese engineering at it's finest. Both are made by the same guys from what I've gathered, as Metabo is owned by Hitachi. Aside from them, Milwaukee is also making killer tools. The only reason I'm not using them is because they are incredibly hard to get in Europe, and also very expensive. I can buy 2-3 Makita/Bosch tools for the price of a single Milwaukee tool sold by resellers.

German-made Metabos + a good steel case. Not chi-com junk!

@@horacerumpole6912 Generally, I think highly of German made things (spent 2 years there and know it's just part of their culture) but I think I've settled on Milwaukee because most of their tools come in cases or at least there is a case available even if you have to purchase it separately and that will also allow me to have a common battery for the cordless items. But I still purchase Knipex hand tools!!!

Have you ever looked into modular tool boxes? I use Dewalt tstak boxes because I'm a jobsite carpenter so I always need a way to stack tools in my truck and then stack them in storage when they're not needed. I keep 2 makita cordless grinders in tstak boxes too so I usually look for a tool I like and not think about a case it comes with. Milwaukee packout system seems to be a really good upgrade, they're tough, water resistant and the footprint of them are 16" X 22" and come in various heights. I may start buying those because the Dewalt tstaks can't hold cordless nailers and I'm pretty sure the Dewalt tough system can't either because they're 13" X 22"

Absolutely right, old machinists might not be as familiar with diamond cutting wheels, but they have been getting cheaper and are so much safer than standard abrasive disks. I wish EC would do an episode just on diamond disks.

Lenox cutting blades and wheels always perform great. See the Project Farm youtube channel for all sorts of head to head competitions between cutoff wheels recip blades etc.

I use 6" wheels (greater reach and edge speed) and my Lenox is extremely useful for the tough task of cutting truck and car tire wire beads when stripping off old tires at home. I weld steel rims together self-service salvage style to support vehicles and other work and don't care to pay to demount than many old tires. I cut the sidewalls with a Diablo carbide tooth recip saw blade (one blade has done about 15 tires so far, much cheaper than paying someone) and sever the wire beads with the Lenox. That level of ruggedness is impressive since the side loads easily snap abrasive discs and a toothed metal saw blade would immediately overheat because rubber doesn't conduct heat well.

Thanks Scruffy!! Merry Christmas to you and your tribe!

Yeah, it's seems that the old saying still comes to pass "The old uns are the best", unfortunately in this day and age seems to be true 😬😠.

Yeah, not a lot of people have a need to resurface even one anvil one time in their life.

Since buying my cordless, I find myself switching wheels out rather than going back to any of the several corded ones. Which of course means obviously I need another one!

@@bradley3549 Makes a lot of sense. The only times I really go back to the corded are when I need the power of the 7" Makita, or I am running it hard with a wire wheel or twisted cup. Even the nice 60V (54V) batteries will start getting pretty warm with that kind of heave, sustained use.

Knowing what I know now, I would have absolutely started with 2. One for a wire wheel (cheapo) and one for whatever else (better). My wire wheel is almost never off of a grinder because I just constantly need it, but it's fairly rare for me to need a cut off wheel AND a grinding disc at nearly the same moment. Might just be me.

And it will keep you from falling too. I work on a smooth concrete floor in the shop, after a day with a lot of grinding you can skate around on your safety boots just bcs of the sheer amount of metal dust on the floor. I also wipe the floor every day to avoid this 😂 sometimes a few times a day if its a grinding day lol

Rationale >< rational

You let your wife know what tools you're buying? You're a madman!

@@TheBrokenLife lol

I have 2 Makitas with the on/off switches on them and they will not turn off until it runs out of power, wishing I had bought the paddle switch versions for safety, I have already had 2 accidents with them over the years

i have a dewalt 11amp 4 1/2" grinder aswell, one of my favorite tools. use one every day at work.

@@gertv6777 give dewalt 11 amp 4.5" a try. it's nice that the safety toggle on the paddle switch is still easy enough to operate with welding gloves on i've had only 2 accidents with grinders i was injured in neither one, but still, twice using wire wheels one time i had headphones on and was grinding under a tank and set it down on my shirt while it was still ramping down and it ripped a 5 inch hole... another time i think i was grinding on a trailer the wire wheel cought my shirt clam up the front of my shirt andhalf way down my back ripping a hole the entire way LOL.

Agree with you on switches and Bosch grinders only weakness on one of my Bosch grinders is the power cable loosening in the housing causing it to cut out, cable has been replaced about 3 times over the 5 ish yrs I have had it. Bosch are king off 4 1/2 grinders .

Once I destroyed a computer monitor with sparks coming off an angle grinder. Who knew them tubes had a plastic coating on them?

I've ruined many t-shirts with the many fairy sparkles from my weld-corrector

I agree. You couldn't give me a grinder with a paddle switch, they are too awkward to work with.

I use a macabo grinder at work at the thumb switch, its a fantastic grinder, because the shop I work at supplied it, however I gate to admit having a wire wheel bounce up and catching your T shirt is not fun, you cant shut the thing off fast enough, I will say the few times that has happened have been in my earlier days working steel, I wont say im smarter now, but I think subconsciously I pay more attention so things like that dont occur anymore. most of my grinders at home are paddle switches, they are awkward at first but you get used to them, I have the same Dewalt and absolutely love it, its a work horse.

Definitely prefer the thumb switch

Paddle switch is much safer for most things. It shuts off if you let go.

The roof is on & tight and the siding is up and tight. Trim& details left to go. Cy is mostly doing the rest.

The Geriatric Boys Club needs their own t-shirt.

Yea dudes...lets see that addition go up!!!

Lou Pecci They are The Tress Centinarian Boys Club.

The geriatric boys need a youtube channel!

Of my five 4 1/2 inch grinders I like the Makita best with two acceptations. The handle doesn't mount at 90 degrees to the body. I made a bracket that realigns the handle to 90 degrees. The other thing was the thumb switch was so long I kept bumping it off. I trimmed the trailing edge of the switch to get it out of the way.

Your channel is now one of my favorite. I wish I could work on a few projects with you. You are just full of valuable knowledge.

That’s common sense yet I see folks not using any face and eye protection. Those are the same folks that are missing a finger or two

I've seen 4 cut tendons in the last month from them. Sometimes severe disability to the arms /hands. Grinders deserve extreme respect

Of all the cuts and bruises I have given myself over my long career ... the angle grinder has been the number 1 enemy ! They don't take prisoners.

This Dewalt gave me 7 stitches,if it weren’t for the paddle it may have been more

Something like this? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aq-HdtmluZ-1n4U.html

@@RememberTheSlapFilms Seen those, used those, Not much faster anyway. In fact if your spindle screw threads aren't all crapped out, you can much faster just give the disk a little hit in the right direction and it screws itself off almost by itself while with that contraption you have to unlock the nut first.

@@RememberTheSlapFilms Yes! That's pretty cool! I've never seen one. I like the simplicity, however I'm concerned about wether that gets it tight enough. When I put mine on with a wrench I really torque it down tight. Idk if maybe I'm getting it way tighter than necessary or not, I don't have years of experience yet with a grinder. However, I have yet to break anything getting it as tight as I do and have never had it come loose. Long story short, I'll just have to try this Milwaukee nut. Thanks!

You really only need the nut on the wheel to be hand tight as the way the grinder spins is the opposite of how the nut is screwed on so its tightening on itself. The only way for the nut to come off when in use would be if the grinder was running in the wrong direction which won't happen

Oh, with Metabo's "Quick" tool-less arbor nut. I've had mine since.... 2010? Bosch makes a variable speed grinder but it doesn't hold rpm under load and the whole tool just feels cheap compared to the Metabo.

They are great no tool change wheel

Genius idea!

Knock it off- that hold-down has been around for centuries…

It's called a holdfast and they have been around for a long time.

Horace Rumpole has rebar been around for centuries? No. That was the remarkable aspect to me.

J DeWitt thank you Sherlock, has rebar been around for as long a time as hold fasts? No. What I found remarkable was the choice of material.