Worth every penny.

Thank you!

Once you use a carbide-tipped blade, you’ll wonder why you didn’t do it sooner.

How long does it last?

if for whatever reason, you need a second chop saw, would you buy another dw872 or go for the evolution?

@@CamiloSantana I think I would try the evolution because of price and I like the fence. However, the screw threads on the clamp are better on the dewalt.

so long as the angles are accurate (check with a protractor) and the cutting disc doesn't flex, you've got a decent saw. good luck

@@CamiloSantana Thank you 🙏

Rusty, I bought a mini 6" chop saw from Harbor freight. It is great for little projects, inexpensive, lift and move it one hand. So much better than clamping stock in a vice and cutting with saws all.

Thanks!

If you have a circular saw you could get one of the diablo metal blades it's what I use while I'm saving up for a chop saw

@@tednielsen5271 Thanks, Ted! I’ll check it out.

@@DStein-jn9ls I can vouch for them the steel demon blades will even cut the 7018 weld pretty quickly. I was eyeballing a steel leg and it wasn't straight at all my fault at that point in time because I hadn't gotten my magnets yet

Get rid of that abrasive saw as quickly as possible. The dust is dangerous as it includes fiberglass as well as the abrasive, plus microscopic metal dust. This lingers in the air where you breath it in for hours. It covers everything in the shop, dulling blades and cutting bits from other machines, and is a general mess.

In order to achieve the correct miter with this saw, you have no choice but to cut on the flat side. It only miters, no bevel.

No thats just the nature of the abrasive disk

Very cool! I used an abrasive saw for years, and you can get very accurate cuts by doing the same things I showed here.

@@TimWelds if needs be, do you think it would it be possible to replace the abrasive disc with a metal blade?

@@desb9639 I've always wondered that. Just picked up my first abrasive Chop Saw a few weeks ago, and was wondering if a Carbide tipped blade would work on it

@@desb9639 unfortunately not. The blade speed for the abrasive machine is far to high for the metal blade. There is a good reason why the cold cut machine is much more expensive.

@@Bosbulls ok thanks.

It’s the Evolution S380CPS with the stock blade. I also have a S355CPSL that also works great.

Not much you can do with thicker wall materials. It'd going to burn through blades fast. Just the way it is. Factor the price of a new blade into the jobs you're taking, especially the ones with heavy wall material. That 100 or 150 bucks for the 14" adds up fast and there's nothing worse than cutting metal with a dull blade.

different blades for each

@@CamiloSantana I've been looking at the dewalt aluminum oxide blades for steel. I've heard the hold up well. I was thinking of getting a 66 tooth carbide blade for aluminum but not really sure which brand works best.

@@77bubba00 check project farm channel

It depends on the stress you put on them, generally speaking, thicker materials or long cuts (where the teeth go through long paths from side to side of the piece to cut) reduce lifespan. Putting too much pressure during cut rather than letting the blade "eat' its way will lead to overheat and reduce also lifespan. Cutting too hard materials will also do the same (stainless steel, high carbon steel), use the blade to cut materials for which it was made. Sometimes using cutting fluid (not simply water), will help to reduce stress over the blade. The major problems of these blades are teeth breaking or simply coming off due to the above reasons. Avoid those situations and you're probably good for many years of thousands of cuts. For the sharpening issue, I don't think there's a simple way to sharpen those blades, as the teeth are most of the time made of cemented carbide, which will break rather than just become dull. It is technically possible to sharpen those teeth using diamond tools, but it will alter the shape of the teeth reducing the quality of the cut.

@@rustygear9370 thanks for the info

Hi John! I haven't tried that specific machine, though the specs and amazon reviews look good for the price. A dual voltage machine that will MIG and stick weld is a great option because you can leave the gas cylinder behind and stick weld something for a repair in the field, but have the convenience of MIG in the shop. Another similarly priced brand that I have used (though not their MIG welder) is PrimeWeld, which has outstanding customer service and good machines at a good price.

@@TimWelds thank you for your response! I will check out the out machine also!

I haven't had a problem with mine. The more expensive ones have a better base/clamp system. Not sure which one you have though.

Are you using a length stop? These give me same problem. Also, depending on your saw, check to see where on the radius of the blade the cut is bing made. Try to avoid cutting stock at location on the leading or tailing part of the radius. Make sure that the support for the cutoff piece is at a lower or equal level to the cutting table of the saw.

@@andrewlangley9507 thanks Andrew. I will try those ideas. appreciate the feedback

The length of the cut off piece is the only time that I have had a problem like that. If it is not large enough to fall off of the side of the base, it will try to fall back into the slot in the base that the blade dives into. I know that it makes it hard when you can't just trim a little off of the end. I junked a blade once with a piece of angle. The blade literally bent.

No you shouldnt, the metal saws spin at way lower rpm, woods saws usually spin a lot faster

I'm interested in this too. I can't see why not providing the blade has the same bore and diameter.

Nope.

No. Speed is too high and it will destroy the carbide.

Absolutely not! Abrasive disks are meant to be used with 3000 to 3600 RPM while this metal specific blades operate at lower speeds, generally 500 to 1500 RPM depending on the diameter and the density of the teeth. Using high cutting RPM will simply break the teeth and /or generate more heat than the they were designed for and let them come off. Considering the price of these blades, using abrasive disk will be more economically viable.

bucket o' scrap metal. reuse or take to scrap metal yard to sell

@@CamiloSantana thanks but I was referring to the tiny fine shards of metal produced by the cut. I’ve tried the magnet in the bag trick and it kinda works.

@@gcranch9913 your doing better than me then. I would think the bag would be a for hazard but 👍🏼 I have my saw up against a wall with a 2x2 piece of 16 gauge steel nailed in. chips hit the floor and shop vac from there when project is done.

I use a magnetic sweeper.