This is what pete performance looks like.

Lattice: "Finger strength is your weakness" Dead hanging world record holder: "You're damn right, I gotta train harder"

Weighted shoulder shrugs made a huge difference in my (dummy level) climbing - my scapula feels so much more "stable" after just 3 months and I feel once I grab a hold I have this nice and still surprising stability in my arms.

Not gonna lie, this is the single most eye-opening moment since I've started climbing 3 years ago. I climb 7a, 7a+ and I'm not really much weaker on the fingerboard. But Pete climbs on a completely different level. It's safe to say I've overrated strength a little bit ^^

As ever relentless hard work behind the scenes as we are just seeing a few minutes of the outcome of all that training. Brilliant effort

Thanks for taking us along the way. Shoulder shrugs and shoulder strength in general is sth I work on more.

Good to see you making such improvements pete. Already such a beast climbing its going to be interesting to see how it translates to a hard project

What’s up, Pete! I’ve been training calisthenics for a few years now in a commercial gym with conventional free weights and can say that my climbing has improved dramatically. “One hand position can improve the others”, 100% I agree. And hey, you’re book “Crack Climbing” has been a huge help. Cheers from Stoney Point in CA!

For the lying shoulder rotations. In Bodybuilding its usually called a "pull over" 👌

Its funny what you say about how the new shoulders feel after doing those kind of excercises. I'm in the same boat and it feels seriously weird when I get holds and feel stupidly solid on them when I expect for it to be really bad or wobbly. I've been doing rings work - 360 pulls, ring face pulls etc... and they are really making a difference!

its great to know this i will definitely be using this to improve my climbing!

Really inspiring stuff Pete!!!

Something relatable and translatable to training. ❤

Damnn that thumbnail didn't realise pete had such a crazy physique... Giving Magnus a run for his money

Freaking awesome!!!

Best channel on KZfaq

Really interesting video! I appreciate being able to get a glimpse into what some training protocols are like, especially for a professional climber like yourself! I think the thing I liked the most was being able to see how much of a process it actually is. I think when we go into training programs it can be easy to assume we should see instant gains or whatever else it is, but I actually liked that we saw the biggest takeaway was that your RH evened out and with that, that provides a good baseline for your next phase/block in training. It certainly makes you appreciate that aspect of 'trusting the process' and appreciating it is something that takes time (on top of all of the other projects/climbing/etc. that you are doing). I also agree with the conditioning of the shoulders and such too. Sometimes gains might not be seen in numbers but the overall feeling of stability and consistency is really important. Thank you as always for the vids! This definitely inspired to look more into my training and introduce some structure (I also struggle with doing things in an organized way so I probably put in a lot of junk mileage...). Cheers!

I climbed a few weeks ago with an 40 years old woman from Poland. She is a 8c climber and she told me that she made a finger strength test when she was a total beginner 10 years ago and she came out with the same finger strength as an 8c climber. She never had training. She was always been able to screw on small crimps like nothing. so she had that already in her genetics what makes me feel a bit of not fair haha.

great results!

You are incredible

Good effort and merci for sharing ;) What do you think about rest days? How long do you rest after such a session (8x10s with extra weight)?

hi ! Seeing the results i can't help but wonder, if you followed a 2 hand hang protocol, could it be the reason why the weaker hand caught up so much but the other kinda stagnated ? because we tend to equalize the weight on the two hands while hanging, could it be that the hangs where more strenuous for your weaker hand than your stronger, and thus kinda held it back a little ? wouldnt it be preferable to have separate hangs, taking off an the appropriate amount of weight so your stronger hand can keep improving as well ? it's poorly worded but i hope you get what i mean

I was in a bouldering contest back in 1982(?) at Magnolia Boulders, Santee, California when Tony Yaniro did a first ascent on an extremely overhanging fingercrack. He taped all the toes on one foot as well.

Here for the mismatched socks, not disappointed

easy going bloke

Thanks!

Besy hype man in climbing! :D Dude actually made u try :D

Maybe in the future make a summary list (before and after, a written one), is so much easier to follow along. The same goes for the training plans. Other than that, great video. Thank you for sharing.

I wish I had a hypeman for my hangboarding days. Or just anyone to hangboard with, lol

10:08 you’ll have better success doing those off a step, doing it on the floor you end up crimping your body up, you leave weakness at your end range of motion because whenever you train, your crimped up. See if you can hang from anywhere higher, see if you see the difference. I know I notice when I do them that way

Think some people need to realise that the exercises he does have been specially selected by coaches to improve HIS weaknesses and not your weaknesses so they may not be applicable to you. That cavite would be quite important in the video

I've always been in awe of how massive your hands are. Now they're like soccer goalie gloves o.o

The odd socks 🧦 ❤

Would be curious to see an update or follow up video on this one

I've typically always trained much shorter contraction times than 10s, however I also exclusively boulder. Is the longer hang period for a reduced focus on maximum contraction?

Just admiring the new Mosquito harness 😍

I'm here for the thumbnail

You know what you're saying is true when you start having subtitles on the wall behind you 6:12

I don't understand the finger workout, if I do the full 4 fingers , should I do 4 or 8 reps?

Amazing video! I find it estonishing that you can hang 1 finger mono on 1 arm on the beastmaker 2000(deep mono) yet cant do 4 finger open hand on a 20mm on 1 arm. Quite interesting

Where can I get this trainingscemes?

What and where is the project you’re working on, Pete?

Been wondering this for a while now. Is the edge where you test your 1 hand open, half crimp and full crimp also 20mm? I know the max weighted hangs is tested on 20mm, but I don't think I have heard anyone saying the size of the other edge, where critical force etc. is tested.

I'm only here for the doggo

I'm sure that my climbing would improve ten-fold if I wasn't so distracted by the mis-matched socks :) Oh.. and more dogs in videos please!

A graphic with the numbers during the discussion would have been nice.

Damn! Huge hands and fingers 😱

Hi do you mind sharing the exact training plan? thanks so much

Wondering a bit about how to do alpine climbing in south america with no alps available... ;P

I'm 110 kg. I don't feel so bad about barely hanging the Lattice board now

For some reason I thought in the conclusion of the initial assessment video, Tom said i don't want you to go away and do a bunch of fingerboarding

Question: Why do climbers not train/use the pinky with hangboard stuff? Doesn't it make sense to include the pinky finger in controlled training so it doesn't lag behind the others too much?

I’d like to see a program that aims to improve core strength in practical ways, that actually improves climbing performance. I’m not sure how well front levers, L sits, or planks translate? They seem to be popular as can be with climbers; especially front levers with advanced climbers.

What frequency did you do? Twice per week, in addition to your regular climbing? You didn't mention that in the video. Interesting conservative gains for an advanced climber, thanks for the video. Refreshing to see that, versus overhyped videos of beginner gains gaining +10kg/month because they never hangboarded much..

@Wide Boyz one way to blow up your grip strength on pinch or crimp is also to work on your extensors with something like a power web (get the black one). Most people train pinching and squeezing so much and generate an imbalance.

When are we ever going to see the Adam Ondra in the cellar video? Rumor has it he has already been there.

How big are the edges on the first exercises? 10mm?

14:54 wtf it's not the lens thats making pete's hand look HUGE in relation to his head?

what app does he use for the timers?

Watching this, I got an uncanny feeling: "Wide Boyz" originated partly out of rehashing that idea of the punky, "1980s, on the dole in someone's Sheffield basement" scene; it was reminicient of Jerry Moffat traversing endlessly at Stoney then going to the US to burn everyone off. Now, it's Pete - sweet and hapless as ever - sponsored by drinks companies with road names and spectacled kids explaining data from a laptop, on behalf of a lucrative company purveying training programmes. I wonder... for all the strength gains... what has been lost!

Awesome video! Really interesting to see how shoulder stability translates to stronger grip and climbing. One thing that I'm surprised about is that 20kg weighted hangs on 3 fingers felt hard for you, but i've watched a youtube shorts where you do a 1 finger pull up (kzfaq.info_Ad5zFKTiHc). Don't get me wrong, 20kg on 3 fingers is for sure challenging, but it is much easier than 1 finger pull up. As a reference, i'm currently able to hang 15kg on 20mm edge with 3 fingers (i'm a v9/10 climber), but nowhere close to even hanging on 1 finger, so just curious on what you think about it

Thumbnail looks like you've photo-shopped your head on Megos's body!

Does anybody know what app Pete used for the countdowns while he was hanging?

Is a one arm pull up off a 14mm hangboard edge impressive, using half crimp? I’m more of a solo outdoor climber anymore so I only have a couple people to ask for outside opinions

On a different note: anyone a hint on what timer app to use for such training for iPhone?

That vertical metal rod which hold the weights together just below you when you're hanging on two fingers looks like a disaster in the making 😅

can we see the making of the thumbnail pls? :D

anyone noticed the mismatched socks lol

Have you thought about doing Emil´s fingerboard program ? It would be very interesting to see the your results after doing it.

14:15 oooh big stretch

Just what we needed, another ag1 add.

14:15 who is the little stretchy guy?

If I had to have guessed what your weaknesses were, it would never occurred to me, finger strength.

What climbing centre is this

whats the app name? (the countdown thing)

Pete the Beast coming soon…!

do you purposely try to not get to muscular? like why dont you do more intensive calisthenics all around?

what gym is he in?

Where’s tom been? He hasn’t been in a wideboyz video for awhile

Bro Collab with bear grills

Does anyone know what the timing app is called please?

I'm not sure if I trust these test results. Last time we had a professional looking science man in a proper scientific coat to record these measurements. This new guy looks like he might be a coach and what do they know about the sciency stuff? I wonder if Pete actually got stronger, or these are just measurement errors? 🤔

what gym is this?

There never enough Finger strength

nice gym, where is that?

This whole video seems like a really long commercial of products one after another...

Oppo

Finishes bag of doritos*

That’s a deceiving thumbnail

What gym is this

Pete needs a sock sponsor

Shoulder shrugs while holding 20 kg with your other hands' fingers sound like cheating 😂 Are you sure it's the shrugs that help or is just the holding of the plate with a pinch? 😂

Buy some new socks with the revenue from this comment :)

why don't your socks match?

🦍🔥🦍🫡