4 year old video still doing work. This sort of content gives me a great deal of confidence dealing with my novice attempts at canoe repair.

Andy has literally helped me transform my boat...he is the best at explaining what do do which has given me confidence to do things correctly instead of half ass

Can't tell you how much I enjoy your videos. Thanks for taking much of the mystery and fear out of doing fiberglass repairs.

For boats or otherwise, some of the best fiberglass discussion on KZfaq IMO. I'm applying it to automotive work on my own and feel like the rigor and attention to detail here is excellent advice for any application.

I believe comments help with your ranking from youtube, so I love the information you share. I look forward to your next one.

Glad you decided to continue the show. Always like to see your fiberglass tips and tricks.

Thanks Andy, really nice how you just pretty much chatting with yourself way of explaining what is going on.

Welcome back. When I watch your videos I feel guilty that I'm not outside working on my boat!

Straightforward and solid information, as usual, Andy. One quick thought with cored decks: especially if there’s been any water intrusion into the hole, you’ll want to clean out any old core material before adding new epoxy. I do this with a homemade right angle reamer, basically a nail shaft bent with pliers and inserted into a drill. It works pretty well to open up the space between the fiberglass layers and makes for a stronger, more positive plug.

I wish you were my brother boy could I use your help ! So grateful for the time you take to make these videos thanks for your knowledge

Simple task yet super helpful, thank you for putting this video together.

Great videos Andy, I am like a sponge, soaking up your experience and well described methods. Thanks.

The old adage "he's forgotten more than I know" probably applies. Super useful for some future sailboat projects

"having the smallest amount of shrinkage"!!! cracked me up 😂 Watched it several times, and your face after you said it.. priceless! Your content is THE BEST

Great that I found this channel, going to be repairing the roof on my cutaway box van with fiberglass. Thanks for all the great informative videos!

I'm the fourth owner of a carolina skiff..each of the 3 previous owners installed a new depth finder..6 holes with screws in them. I'm in the process of filling now. I use a stick for a depth finder..stick touches= shallow..stick don't touch= deep.

The 2-1 epoxy is good for lamination, has a higher viscosity that soaks into glass faster and no amine blush. Great videos Andy!

Thanks Andy.

Hello Andy, thanks for all your informative videos. They’re a joy to watch & learn from. I have a couple screw button studs that have ripped out for my canvas enclosure. What should I fill with so I can re secure them down? Thank you for your time!!

Thank you. I'm working with an RV - thank you! I admired your Seinfeld-esque discussion of shrinkage.

Thanks once again for the detailed video Andy. I’m amazed daily by other uses outside of boat work.

Since you used epoxy you can not use gelcoat correct? But the boat looks like it has gelcoat on it. Sorry, I am confused.

Great video as always! Recently I started adding the fillers to the resin pre hardener. I find it mixes easier and doesn't take away from the working time of the pot. Is there any downside to doing it this way that you can think of?

I have been watching your videos for learning to do glass work. I was rebuilding my old boat. Can you make a video showing how to drill a whole to make a thru hull fitting for a second bilge pump?

Good enjoyed the little tips on mixing and what types of epoxy to use.

Good video. I stop using measuring cups or the pump. Instead I find the weight ratios of hardener to resin (usually not the same as the volume ratios). Then I make a chart 0.1 to 10.0 This will cover anything you can think of. 1 gram, 1 ounce, 1 pound. Then I put an inexpensive digital gram scale under saran wrap or in a baggie (left open!) This keeps the goop off the scale. I Tare (zero it) to an empty cup. Then by eye I pour in about how much resin I think I need in the cup or one similar. Read my units. Maybe it says 45.6 grams. Look at the chart for 4.5 - 4.6. In that row will be two other numbers the weight of the hardener, and then the total weight of both. Then I'll just pour in hardener until I get close to the total number. If I go over... I can add a little more resin. It's always worked. If I mix a filler to mount hardware I'll always use a dense filler like WestSystems 406. Of course if I'm in a hurry and want it to cure quickly I'll follow the direction to let the mixed epoxy sit for a minute or two before adding hardener. If I want it to not kick off for a while (maybe a bunch of holes) I'll add the filler soon after I mix the resin and hardener. And I always wear a full respirator and nitrile gloves when working with epoxy. It's carcenigenic and hypersensitizing. (Heard of a guy who learned to build boats, never protected his skin or wore a respirator. By the time he was good he couldn't go near epoxy without getting a severe reaction.) The resin is 90% BP-A, meaning it acts on your body like high random doses of estrogen. Epoxy has a nice nutty smell. Vinegar is a great solvent for epoxy. I've reused chip brushes multiple time because I put them in vinegar before the epoxy kicked off. And I'd advise anyone with a boat to find a big hole, cut eight to ten layers of glass (smaller and smaller away from the perimeter. Keep them stacked on construction plastic, saturate them all at one. Squeegee the excess epoxy off the stack. Paint the margins of the hole and then lay on the whole stacked patch. It won't be perfectly flat, but with some filler and sanding job done. What this is really effective for is an emergency repair. Give me 30 minutes and a tracing of the hole and I can have that patched and watertight. (The way to use a tracing of the hole is to either draw smaller and smaller lines towards the middle. Then just cut each layer out using the same tracing. Don't get too small.) The reason everyone should do this is once you've done it, you'll always know how to do it and you can solve a serious problem anywhere. Hope this helps

Great info Andy. For folks that don't like mixing and silica dust and have a small job, we use the pre thickened epoxy (THIXO or Flexpoxy) that comes in a caulk gun cartridge. We can dispense the epoxy right out the end of the mixing tip into the fastener hole, or squirt it into the syringe tube for smaller holes or seams. If there is product left over, we put the cap back on the tube and it is good to go for the next project. Happy New Year! Clark and Skipper

Great video! I'll be filling holes in my old Mako very soon!

Very much appreciated you taking the time to explain the process through. Great video, thank you!

Takes more time and effort (and materials) to do the job right. Thank you for teaching us the right way. And, even if we can't do our own work, at least this explains what to look for if someone else does the work for us. A good repair won't be cheap but it will last and will be something you can trust well into the future..

I purchased a surfboard repair kit. It had gel coat / hardener as you would expect. I also had a piece of thick cellophane to place over the wet gelcoat to create a smooth surface. It worked really well. Ever think of doing something like that for a large area? it would eliminate all of the wet sanding etc? Almost like a reverse mold. maybe shrink wrap over an entire hull?

Great video. Andy is the man! I’ll be sharing this on the keywestboatsforum. My cooler seat came loose and I have a ton of holes to fill in the deck and the fiberglass base. No access from underneath the deck. Total Boat has some nice material.

Just to be sure, I have to: - sand down holes - lay mixed epoxy + hardener - lay glass - more mixed epoxy - let dry, then sand down - gel coat ? Thank you for making these videos

Clean out hole. Chamfer the hole Back up with paper tape Fill with Epoxy resin Fill any shrinkage when dry Sand Apply glass

Thanks for the info Andy, the shrinkage part was funny as hell.

Excellent boat repair channel. I know you are based in usa and everything is inches. But only 3 countries or so use it worldwide. Would be nice and easier for the majority if metric system would be used. Thx for videos.

I've watched a couple dozen videos you've presented and am deeply grateful for the information...but I have to play them at 1.5 or faster because you're just too friendly and chatty. I just bought a neglected 23 foot, 30 year-old Cuddy Cabin and I don't know what I would do without your videos.

Thank-you Andy for all you do and provide.

I have to thank you very very much. I need to fill some holes in my boat soon and i thank you for the information. Andy your videos are so awesome. A+

I use epoxy putty. Reason being I can press it through and fill the hole as opposed to patching over it. It adds some structure back to it. I've also thought of putty, sanding, and then fiberglass. I use JB waterweld

Thank you for your informative videos.... It helps us other KZfaqrs to prepare so that we don't look like complete novices when we get into the issues you are solving so elegantly.... I'll express my gratitude in my videos when I get to the epoxy stuff. Thank you and a happy New year

Your videos are most educational, I always look forward to your posts and see how your projects progress. I have a suggestion, can you do a pourable core type transom repair? Would be interesting to see your take on this approach to doing a transom replacement this way. If you need a donor boat I may have one for you ;) Thanks again!

I just put 8 hrs into working on my new to me boat. It was 97 degrees out yesterday and I was baking in my big white tub. Patching screw holes and putting in a T top. Apparently I didn't get enough of boat repairs because here I am😂. I feel better knowing I used epoxy now. I was hoping I didn't screw up.

Man thank god for this channel .. ! I was new to fiberglass and boats and I have learned so much via this. A big thanks and I promise to hit up your Patreon acc. To properly thank you. I do have a question can I re-tap those holes like in a rub rail hole that’s being stripped out?

I think the holes are from one of those big, chrome air-horn type horns that were popular for some time on smaller boats that wanted to act bigger. haha They seem too far from the rail to be cleats...imho. Regardless, they're gone now! :)

Thanks Andy, as always great video and detailed information, I have the same job to do myself so this was perfect "How Too " do it properly video!!!! happy new year to you,cheers Barry

Andy, I started following you when you posted a video on buffing out oxidation. Your product suggestion and comments were spot on for my project so thank you. I have a question I thought I would ask you. I’m trying to add a drain on an entrance step to my boat and I wanted your take on how I can make it “flush” or “embedded” into the step so no one hurts a toe entering from the water. I can send photos of the drain I want to use and the location if that would help you with a proper suggestion, but I would love your assistant in my request and even thought it might be an episode that others would like to view as well. Thanks for your consistency in sharing your knowledge. 🤗

Do you have a video showing how to fill old holes in transom? Got a new boat and need to fill those. Thanks!

Really enjoy your videos. Was wondering if you could do a video on boat lengthening and widening? Or maybe on an inboard install on a new or rebuild where things like like motor and out drive have to be put into place without any previous guides or mounts?

just a few minor tipps: - use nitrile gloves (developing a sensitivity is directly related to exposure time - plus cleanup is a lot easier) - for holes as big as they were for the front cleats I would start with a patch on the bottom and once cured then fill with the thickened epoxy from the top and the top patch. - with epoxy always use a release fabric if possible. All amin blush will be gone with the fabric and the rough surface can directly take subsequent layers without sanding or if sanding is needed, it is a lot easier to knock down. - when pumping 3 strokes of epoxy, don't pump AAABBB but ABABAB. If anything happens (running out of component, phone rings, remembering to put on gloves, etc.) you won't ever get mixed up. - I always strain my silica to get rid of the lumps that are a PITA to mix.

thanks for the vid im rebuilding a fiberglass boat, full of holes

great advice

Shrink Factor.....LOL Nice video, working on a boat console, this is great

Another great informative video, keep up the great work. Liking the new format. Sticking to one project, step by step progress seems to more informative to see what could possibly go into restoring a boat or at least making esthetic repairs. 👍👍👍

You need to do one on how to repair screw holes that you can use again and will hold ? Thanks for your video’s

Thanks a ton buddy, been learning a lot from you.

Nice work Andy. You’re always great to watch.

Quick question: How about re-using holes (and getting a good grip)? I stripped a whaler and I'm putting the wood back in the same spot, and I didn't want to waller out the pre-used hole. Thanks Andy!

I didn’t expect to laugh at a DIY repair video lol. Love the content

As usual informative video. What would alternative things could you use to thicken epoxy with? I have tried baking soda works good as long as you get the lumps out. I tried it out after seeing about baking soda added to supper glue.

Great video. What if the holes were already filled with thickened epoxy only, cured, but yet to be painted over...would you grind it all down together to add insurance cloth? I had a guy repair a lot of the holes on my boat by just filling them either with epoxy alone or cut out another piece of fiberglass from a throw away part and epoxied it into the hole. I'm afraid I know your answer 🤯

I love your videos! Is there a follow up to this video that shows how to finish the patches? I was thinking gel coat but another of your videos said no gel coat with epoxy. Any help?

Love your videos. Any way you could talk about fiberglass restoration? Especially to an older boat that has the no slip texture from the manufacturer?

Hi Andy .... how about filling holes on a vertical surface? Any tips/tricks?

Thanks Andy,what about filling screw holes in the timber fender outside of the glass which are no longer required?

Hey Andy! Happy 2019! I appreciate that you show how to MIX the epoxy first and then add the filler/thickener. I've seen a few guys using epoxy in their videos but they add everything before they stir it once and I cringe. Secondly, I have used Total Boat products and like them a lot but I have West Systems epoxy and was wondering if their 2:1 v. 5:1 qualities would be the same or similar as to what you mentioned for Total Boat? Thanks for another great video.

You rock Andy!

I helped neighbor Fred pick out a boat, an thought, I'd really like to buy it if he every sales! Later he says his hips are so bad, he wants to sell! Now boat sitting in my driveway, but it's got Fred's handiwork in screw holes I need to fix, this is timely for me! Haha! I did enjoy, but grinding, filler, glass, more thin epoxy, let dry over night, additional steps tomorrow! I'm thinking epoxy an if needed repair epoxy in ten years take 5 minutes each for 10 minutes for 2 repairs in ten+ years, haha!

Thanks for your videos Andy. Can you do a video on fibre glass tanks. For fresh water and fuel. Can I turn my hollow fibreglass stringers into water and fuel tanks? I’ve got a 25ft Bertram

Thanks for the video. I've never used epoxy for the simple reason that I've been told (over and over) that it is not compatible with a lot of other products - like gelcoat? If this is true, how do you address the gelcoat at the end?

Firstly, Andy your tutorials are absolutely excellent mate...many many thanks for taking the time and effort to make these massively informative videos. Now, I’ve got the exact same issue as this vid highlights....at least 20 to 30 holes in an old fibreglass half cab from the previous owner, but have made the rookie mistake of sanding them, drilling them out slightly and even used a rounded dremel grinding stone bit to give them a tapered edge (inside and outside), then filled them with an industrial strength filling/bog compound. ALL of them...except anything over about 10mm in diameter, which I will glass over just as you have done in this video. Question 1 is, have I just shot myself in the foot, even tho I’ve prepped them all inside and outside and filled them all inside and outside? Question 2 is, can I glass over the filling compound? Or would I have to drill that out and basically start all over again? My main goal here was to just bring it back to a blank canvas and repaint, then refit some new fittings/items, but have it looking smooth and clean. It’s not an expensive or flashy boat, I just want to know I’ve done this right the first time.

Thanks for the help.

I like mads from sail life’s idea of using the baking piping bag for filling the epoxy into holes

Sweet! How about teaching us to fix an area where it is in a nonskid pattern area??

Well done, as always. I noticed your choice for epoxy. Are you using this new product as a replacement or in addition to the West System? Preparing for a lot of fiberglass repairs on my 1982 11.0 S2

been watching and loving the videos . i have a large stressed area in the topside of my boat. It is about the diameter of a pie plate.. I was going to grind out the gelcoat and then repair with chopped strand and epoxy but after watching I am thinking that polyester will be as good and easier to do The hull is balsa cored . Any advise? Thanks

Andy, getting ready to install a bow thruster and researching exactly what to use for filler around the tube and hull. On the front of the tube I need to create a flare to reduce turbulence at lower speeds and prefer to use epoxy. Can I use this same, thickened mix with silica or should I use chop strand? Or should I use a different type of epoxy for that thickened application? Thanks.

Helpful and timely. Thank you!!!

Very informative video! Some awesome top tips there buddy, Thankyou

Thanks for the video, can you go over the epoxy patches later with gelcoat?

The reason they "pop out" is a failed mechanical bond to the original material, the common reason that happens is over catalyzing the resin. Using VE resin to prime and fill the hole after prepping then surfacing it before its fully cured and coating it with color matched gelcoat and applying cellotape over it, you can get it perfect in a few hours with almost no finishing to it- I bet andy does em like that when the camera is off! ;)

Thanks Andy for a fantastic show. My wonder is how you do if you cant reach the backside of the hole with a tape?

Hi Mate, Thank you very much for very informative videos. I am sure it is quite helpful for many amatures,DIYs and hobbyists... Do you also have any advice for how to reduce the diameter of through hull holes such as from 2" to 1-1/2" on a fibreglass boat. Thank you in advance...

You have a good set of fiberglassing videos. Question: - I want to replace several intake through-holes in a fiberglas hull with one 3-inch intake through-hole, on which I want to install a class 150 fitting, valve and bulkhead-supported distribution header. I know tubing, valves and industrial fittings, but fiberglas not so much. I expect to have all fittings milled or supplied from 2507 stainless. I assume a 3-inch hole might compromise hull integrity, and am considering a bit of remediation to maintain hull strength and stiffness. Would the following work? Hull structure is gelcoat/barrier/glass/divinyl cell foam/glass; maybe 2.5" thick. Inboard stainless spool flange would be 7.5" diameter, bolt holes 3/4" (x4), bolts 5/8", flange thickness 15/16". Outboard 'mushroom' loading plate flange probably 5/8" thick, other dimensions same. Through-bolt cap screws run from outboard mushroom flange to inboard spool flange. Outboard loading plate/flange exists to distribute point-loads of the cap screws over the exterior of the glass (plug). Cap screw heads would be countersunk 3/8" into the stainless mushroom flange to keep them flush with the outboard surface of it. Mushroom wall OD to be set with some good marine adhesive sealant against ID of glass hole, and some sealant placed around the periphery of compression point between mushroom flange and exterior glass. Adhesive sealant in the bolt holes and around the hex-heads. Bolt torque values appropriate for fiberglass mount points. So far, I intend on milling a solid 8-inch diameter epoxy/e-glass plug/disc the same thickness as the hull, drilled with a 3-inch center hole and boltholes to accept the mushroom sleeve and capscrews. Plug would be milled countersunk on the outboard side to bring the mushroom load flange and cap screw heads flush with hull surface. Spool contact to be made against inboard fiberglas surface using appropriate gasket. Mount mushroom sleeve, finish-length bolts, glass plug and inboard spool together in workshop as a unit. Cut an 8-inch hole in the hull in a neutral area below the waterline, away from any high-stress structural members. Disassemble spool from plug assembly. Glass in that assembly, then additionally build up a flat 1-inch by 14" epoxy glass reinforcement footing on top of that inside the hull. Drill 3-inch hole and boltholes in footing aligned with plug, and machine footing flat. Reattach and torque spool.

Great man i am learning a lot by your videos, i have a very Old tiny Boston WHaler i need to repair an area in the Forward Small Deck area,, the trolling motor came loose ( Previous Owner used screws and some kind of Glue Kit) , Including the gel coat and some polyester fibres nasty shit, now i am working on a Good Solution to fix it, if you have a tip ?? More then welcome ! P.s Even if i dont have to make a repair, just love to see your videos ! I Live in the Netherlands so sorry can not visit your shop :)

Thanks so much. Great info.

I was curious if it was ever necessary to glass on the inside too perhaps in larger hole repairs?

Great courses. I'm wondering why it is worth filling the holes instead of just relying on the glass mat? I have been restoring my 1986 62' Medyacht for 15 years. I am tired of deck leaks, so I removed all the teak planks and glassed over THOUSANDS of screw holes in the decks. I did not bother filling the holes. My guess is that in your example, filling the holes will provide good grip for any future holes made for hardware if coincidentally put in the same spot.

Come to Scotland and help me build a hard top! Quarantine in my hotel for 2 weeks :)

Andy, any recommendations on what to place in the backside of a screw hole (before filling) on a highly textured fiberglass? (Painters tape is not and option) I’m think more like silly putty? I have a C-Dory with ~25 screw hole that are in the pilot house. The interior has ~1/8” raised texture. Thanks!

Great Andy! Learn so much from you.

Nice video

Love to see people that aren't in the business give someone who is advice....

Looking good Andy, & Happy New Year

Thanks for sharing Andy, all the best to you and your channel for 2019....

I have to move my keel winch from the original holes and drill new ones since it's a different size. Can I use the same approach as you show here and do 3 new holes without losing the strength of the deck? The original holes and the new ones are very close to each other

good advice as usual

long after initial showing, but any different if the surfaces are vertical? Also, least, fewer, less, more, you’re doing fine. As long as you’re sensitive to good and well, I’m okay.

Silica is the only filler worth using, for drill holes. Bondo is desperate measures

thanks again Andy as always Solid information