Let me see if I understand this, I can run a ground wire (0 gauge seems huge to me in this video, I'd think a simple 4 gauge would work for a ground too yes?) from the bolt that is holding my alternator (basically where you want to ground to the alternator) *directly to the negative on my battery?* I ask because I have a Honda Civic 2001 that cranks but no start (doesn't seem to be getting spark & I replaced battery and starter but no go - so I replaced fuel relay but nope. Fuel pump is fine. Spark plugs and wires are fine. Leaves my alternator which was tested as weak right before this happened) but before I replace the alternator, I want to make sure it's getting the ground.

@@MrOTcomputer your crank sensor on your d17 is probably going bad

Did you connect the ground to the alternator mounting bolt or was it to the alternator case itself in the back via the casing bolts or the empty tap?

@Hammerback0 I did alt mounting bolt to chassis. Engine block to neg battery. Neg battery to chassis. And left all oem as well.

They’re all connected some how by the big3 just waste money I did it all didn’t notice anything

wow you battery sounds like it may be on its last legs. you might want a new bat or possibly a new alternator

ghostlyrich how can I make the wires mite heat resistance

Mallory Robinson see comment above about 95 Honda alternator commented on could be bad ground wire from alternator check it as it is usually a tiny wire not suitable to handle a failing alternators power

Lemon

Sam Jas straight to battery for best ground and was avoiding a ground loop

That worked best for me alternator to chasis... I did the direct to battery (-) for a year, but didnt get good results. much better to chasis esp nearer the battery.

Same here. Initially I had a 2gauge frm the the alternator body/case to battery (-) but still had issues with my digital temperature meter. But when I rerouted the same wire from alternator body/case to chassis nearest to battery, it seemed to have solved the issue...seems the alternator was struggling to send current to the otherside, maybe due to various dust,oil, greases around the block,engine,chasis...this worked best for me...

negative

This KZfaqr in the video I feel is confusing ppl...you dont need to necessarily ground the alternator body...you need to ground the ENGINE to the BODY or NEGATIVE POST/TERMINAL...any of those will do...point is to make engine and body (-)

@@betareybill9400 yeh, i think in grade six schools taught complete circuits. Ford Engineers never took that school. ALL Ford trucks had bad grounds for decades. Easy fix, though. Just ground to the frame.

@@betareybill9400 in an ideal world yes. There are exceptions such as alternators that use rubber mounts and rely on the bracket for grounding My classic car had resistance here because the bracket was painted (my bad) and it attaches to the water pump housing. The water pump bolts have thread tape on them

leave all yuor stock wires in place . it will add redundancy to your system which is never bad

the stock power wire will not due for a bigger alternator. it is very simple to add a new wire and I would suggest a fuse size of 200-300 amp depending on what your new alternator pushs

+ghostlyrich when I hook my positive battery alternator and my starter main hot wires up to the positive, an connect my negitive wire up from the battery I get a bad sparking. could this result in needing to put a ground on the alternator and starter to not get any sparks while trying to hook it up.

+IceePrettyWings big sparks norman

+ghostlyrich normal

+ghostlyrich continuous sparks

i did find it helped its easy to do

My 06 Dakota has a short in alternator power wire. What gauge wire can I replace it with? Everytime I crank truck I have to move the power wire to alternator to crank truck

Clamp and post method is easier for when having to disconnect the battery. Bolting it down like i did can be more secure and takes the clamp out of the mix so less resistance

I have never regreted putting a proper ground onto anything. I did 2 wires but didnt do the alternator due to lack of one L bracket at end of night . Will finish my big 3 upgrade by adding a REAL ground to the alternator. I have been having serious engine stalling after warm up with electric flickering being related 100% Can drive until stopping- then electrical issue begins. Same issue was fixed by another s10 owner by addressing single tiny ground wire coming off of alternator and replacing the wiring before it (aka pigtail) With that said A proper 1/0 wire coming from alternator to battery is a simple way to make darn sure the alternator is not going to be causing issues from insufficient ground. A few feet of wire and a few dollars in wire bracket is much cheaper than replacing alternator and praying- many had replaced alternators with no problem solved because they did not properly troubleshoot before buying parts. Took me 30 minutes to actually wire all of my body and frame grounds (2 hours to customize brackets and find longerbolt for my darn Chevy battery) Alternator will take another 10 to wire as there is a free bolt in sight May need a large fisher adapter , as opposed to wiring bracket, depending on space available. You likely have already dealt with this issue by now- But hopefully this helps the next guy smart enough to go to the comments looking for possible soutions to his problem!

rawk4life93 what do you think my problem could be? I have a 2011 chevy impala with a solo x12 sundown being powered by a hifonics zues elite 3300w. I have a 250a mechman alternator and a solo xs power d3400. I can't seem to figure out why I still receive headlight dimming. I get headlight dimming and rpm drops from just rolling up all my windows at the same time. Could this possibly be my grounds? Or do I need to think about getting a second battery. My sub is also wired to 1 ohm but the amp is only up 3/4 of its power. Please help could definitely use some opinions

sky high car audio has them on there website

EBay

rhdadrian alt shouldn't drain the battery unless it's shorting. are you sure it's the alt shorting the battery?? how olds the battery if you disconnection does it just drain

For sure will ground the casing that way

@@ghostlyrich Thank you

Wierd i would think since its a wood framed car they would ground the block

Power would go from the positive post on alt and then to the battery which may have a fuse on it. The diode might be a ground loop isolator but hard to tell

Gm cuz

What's up cuz how u been

I'm blessed. To much for mess

+Mike Gray sounds like ELD problem I had with my 02 Honda Accord Lx, I found a way around by just keeping an accessory on and I get my full voltage and the battery light goes out, again just leaving my headlights fixed it. You should try it!

Harriet Cisco the engine is grounded so to tell you the truth if your battery's dying like you say sounds like the alternators defective

You could but for best results battery

@@ghostlyrich ty

awesome stuff!

I'm pretty sure it means you made sure it's got enough distilled water in it and has been fully charged according to specs.

That means your Battery is trying to pull voltage from the alternator and the wire might not be able to handle the flow what size alternator wire did you use

Also is it just the alternator wire that is hot

So the end that goes into the fuse box is hot. The wire coming off the alt isn’t. Only the end from the alt to fuse box

@@xUglyGodx17 OK sounds like the fuse is causing a lot of resistance one thing you could do if you still have enough wire to reach the battery without the fuse block you could run the alternator straight to the battery. I ended up doing that with my recent hemi build because the alternator puts out so much amperage. If you run the alternator wire straight to the battery without the fuse block I highly suggest you loom the wire just to protect it more from being caught or grounded out ever

@@ghostlyrich so run one to the fuse box and run one to the battery ? And I am using 4 gauge wire and 90 amp alt.

Devan Castille its making contact with ground or something like that that was happening to my 2004 eclipse

What size wire you got on it?

Ya I was thinking same thing... you don't have to make ground all the way to battery! Just find engine ground or frame!

So, the strut mount would be good, right?

Yes, but the alternator has to work harder to achieve the same result when the ground has more resistance than say a cable straight to the negative battery terminal

Exactly. Copper conducts electricity 1000x faster than (ok maybe not quite 1000 but you get my point, relatively half and multiplied by the amount of material it has to pass through, on an engine is a LOT) steel, cast iron, even aluminum.

Alternator could be getting hot from a few things. Including heavy usage.

@@ghostlyrich heavy usage ?

@@ghostlyrich like to hot to touch, wire is getting hot. Would u happen to know if both black & orange wires go to positive terminal w a fuse link ?

@@jevontecole7836 is this a aftermarket alternator, what after market accessories are you using and what battery are you using with what age. It sounds like the battery and vehicle are drawing quite allot of amperage and the wire is under gauge.

Harriet Cisco alternator sounds defective I would put a volt meter on it. if it isn't charging past 13 volts

Same thing happens to me. What car do you have?

Voltage spikes to 17v lol. Had it happen

netzke10 Stock location

@@jacksmith3189 took a Mazda through a flood in Calgary almost under water. The only thing that saved me is I hit the high ridge in the road middle and had a work mate in the passenger seat that weighed over 350 lbs. Kept the tires on the pavement. !!

He's upgraded sound system, etc. asks for much more power, Scotty. Thank God it isn't a Ford. I had to ground heads to the frame to get a complete circuit for the glow plugs or spark plug systems. Ford Eng. should have been sent back to school. Decades of bad grounds on Fords.

ahhh awesome man and congrats on the wicked bat and alternator to haha i only get dimming when i crank it really loud and have sub knob all the way up but yea big 3 and alt ground helped alot!

I did :)

@@ghostlyrich > You ever see the weird ground from a Honda Civic 2001? I've wasted alot of time on this when I tried to upgrade it. LOL. I wish you could see my design. I ended up buying a ground cable that was just like the original and threw away my design because I don't think I can understand what the heck is going on with the ground. I *HAD* created a cable (2 gauge) that split. 1 from the battery to the block (where the original battery ground cable bolted in) and 1 from the battery to the chassis (where the original cable was.....being held?) but that didn't work for some reason. Anyways, if you get a chance to check out the cable I would be interested in your thoughts.

@@MrOTcomputer when you say It isn't working is the battery just not charging or vehicle not starting ?. If you bolt one cable from were old chassy ground (body) make sure no pain and rust is were it grounds or it won't ground proper. Then one from block (engine) to battery you should be good. Make sure factory cables are not connected as this can cause a ground loop

Just a simple misunderstanding. Topped up, as in making sure your battery is fully charged. You always want use a battery charger to fully charge your battery before using your new alternator. Your alternator is already under heavy stress with your amplifiers pulling high current, but if your battery has low voltage to begin with, you’re unnecessarily forcing your alternator to charge much more of a load with less voltage which can cause your alternator to fail prematurely.

Yea but corrosion can be a bitch, not all are wise enough to clean the shit out of the mounting brackets for say a new alternator and then boom! Thats a shitty ground, instead of removing the alternator and wire brushing the brackets you can just bolt on a single wire, although if the alternator is old, you may have to clean the metal under one of the bolts for le new ground wire

Lol, you are right, this doofus thinks its gonna "add power" because of a ground. fucking youtube idiot posters

Man ... Lol... I thought it was stupid to add 2 grounds to the battery in the big 3 upgrade already now your supposed to add yet another . Roflmao. You get better grounds if you ground the body to the frame , battery to the frame , and motor to the frame . Also what the hell is the point of using 0awg ? Its pointless . 4 ga will carry more amps in that short run than can be supplied .

Have any of you actually done this?! Obviously not and obviously none of you actually know anything about this! Yes 4g will work, but it'll still have more resistance than 0g ofc! You'll def notice a difference between 4g and 0g. The whole point of adding grounds, good grounds, is to help with keeping current flowing, with the least amount of resistance possible. It helps a ton! Instead of being idiots that just run your damn mouths, try it. It'll even help out your boss amps LMAO.

You can only receive as much power as your ground. Read something and get the F off of youtube.

Well, you better start driving backward