Ben Knapp You’re welcome bro! :-)

I have used knobs from old lab equipment being scrapped where I work. A knob from a signal generator or oscilloscope is still just a knob.

Ahh ye true. It's more or so that I guess he found a way to solve his problem of his original knobs being to hard to turn and control, so he just used some old pedal knobs.

Next he just needs to pop on some chicken head knobs.

Ha ! Except a knob isn't just a knob. Watch Rob after he demos the Gibson and goes to roll the volume down with the inside of his pinky and palm like Barrel knobs and Top Hat knobs are supposed to be used.

this is exactly what I was going to say. its amazing what the ear hears when it wants to

Not everyone who can solder understands electronic theory

There seems to be a little bit of confusion about what I was talking about here. So lets clear things up: (Everybody ready??) A tone pot works differently to a volume pot. It uses a pot and a capacitor together to filter the treble frequencies in the signal to ground. The capacitor only allows treble frequencies through to the other side. If the treble frequencies are present on both hot signal and ground side, the voltage difference is cancelled out and the treble frequencies are removed from the signal going out to the amp. The tone pot is connected to the input of the volume pot. It is connected to one end of the resistive strip. Some people call this “lug 1”. A capacitor is then connected between the wiper, or “lug 2” and ground. The other contact on the pot is unused. This is because we’re using the tone pot as a variable resistor, rather than as a voltage divider, in the case of a volume pot. Turning the pot down allows more signal to reach the capacitor, where the treble frequencies are then allowed through and are grounded. If you disconnect the tone pot and the capacitor from the circuit completely, you remove a path to ground from the circuit. All the frequencies will then head to the amp. Does this make it louder? Not really. It’s probably more accurate to say it makes it ‘wider’. You’re now getting all the available frequencies generated from the pickups instead of filtering out varying degrees of high frequencies. Yes, a 1 Meg pot would make it a lot brighter sounding than a 500K. The lower the value of the pot, the greater the amount of signal that can escape to ground. 500K pots keep your sound brighter than 250K: their higher resistance won't allow as much of the signal to bleed off. A 1 Meg pot has such high resistance that when wide open it sounds almost like having no control pot there at all. But in the case of this particular on-site mod, we didn’t have any 1 Meg pots! ;-) As always, theres not really any "right" or "wrong" when it comes to which pot value or capacitor value to use, they’re just different. What pickups you are using and their output will all make a difference. The important thing is to use your ears. Experiment with different pots and capacitors to see what sounds best to you. Pablo ;-)

while this is fair, youve essentially got 500k in parallel with the nominal resistance of the pots while unloaded, lets say 5ohms (its uncommon for a pot to ever be fully unloaded ime). Youre essentially going to see no voltage across the pot and the overall load of the system is going to be marginally lower than the 5ohms (4.9999500005ohms). taking the pot out when at max volume essentially does nothing. In fairness, im more well versed in LoZ electronics and I know that parallel RC loads can affect peak resonant frequencies even when unloaded in HiZ

I've had the same idea for some time now. As I was studying guitar building and we did have an amp and pedal course, this thought came to me. It's not a difficult circuit to do and woule be helpful for people to compare what capasitor/pot they want in their guitar.

Did you expect a sombrero and big mustache?

not exactly, but you know what I mean

Oisin McPhillips his name’s Paul

Check him out kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Z7WIp9ieyMm-fWg.html

Brian Stewart lmao

hyprz5 if you want to take your guitar to a tech, try to seek for any guitar-related forums from your country/area and ask for recommendations. If you don't have the luck to have good techs around where you live, you can always live the "if you want it done properly, do it yourself" motto, most repairs, replacements and set-ups are easy to learn how to do - this reminds me of another great piece of advice, if you want to learn how to do something, better try that on your friends' guitars first so you won't screw up yours. ;)

Bass guitars already had that...

Now that you mention it, those Fender Jazz knobs do look very similar to pedal knobs. From my own instruments, I can confirm that ESP/LTD and Chapman both use the standard knurled knobs. So, maybe I should look into getting those Fender Jazz knobs, and putting them on everything.

Dagwood Dogwood Not to argue but Rob has to use a zip tie to keep his High E on. It really is a design flaw. The break angle from nut to tuner is very sharp.

i did not notice that ever, wow

Which hand ?😂

Hector Heath the one without the fucking fingers lmao

I bet he doesn't like the look. I'm not even sure if those would fit through the holes, perhaps?...

They set on top ,and I'd choose function over form when it comes to gigs ! :-)

They changed their minds mid-setup.

Mwell, with real physical stuff like woods, metals, and electronics, there's still a difference. Just not in the way it's generally thought, and it's so MINOR. - It comes down to the player's isolated world, what they (want to) hear and feel. - Like I hear a slight difference when using GraphTech saddles as opposed to regular steel saddles, or play any other material pick compared to your regular Tortex. But it's only a tiny contribution to an overall sound, and when I play full-on and intensely, espcially along with other instruments, it's not going to be apparent. People think too much of the impact, as if each component weighs in an even amount. HDMI is a digital case, the signal is the signal indeed. Even if we're speaking of analogue audio plugs, gold plating is to prevent corrosion, mostly. That's why you'd want that; No green goop on your plugs over time. That's more about maintaining than improving.

Well, yea.. Guitar and guitar tone talk often rises to the level of supersition. Eventually it gets down to comparing which company's lemon oil gives guitar the best tone. I remember when I was buying my second guitar, people used to talk how nitrocellulose finish makes the guitar sound so much better than polyurethine finish. Seriously.. SRV played a battered old Strat with hardly any finish left on it and people go crazy about how good his tone was. And for a reason, it was great. But I wonder if he ever spent any money on lemon oils and orange drops.. Maybe he did, I don't know.

I agree with you only noting that the string "freshness" and quality is really very high on the list. Pickup -> AMP -> Speakers -> Cabinet -> Strings -> Nut material and quality -> Hardware setup, intonation and calibration -> leads quality and length, ... the rest is ALMOST pure placebo effect. BUT the highly controversial pickup wounding and upgraded electronics are definitely higher on the tone effect than "tonewood" wich is undeniably last. The only reason to improve guitar electronics and hardware is to have better quality, reliability and an act of justice to nice guitars albeit mass produced like the Gibson here. doing it for "tone reasons" is idiotic at best and should be put last on the priority list even if money wasn't a concern, but it is, and we all know it, too bad nobody is brave enough to accept this on public.

Andy Young it was too expensive to do so. So they decided to just do it as a normal fretted guitar but keep the name because it was a cool name.

Cheers

Because your fingers will be flyin so fast you won't be able to see them! 😁

Because he thinks it sounds cool

Cosmocalypse have you seen his vids where he can accurately know the guitars by feel and sound alone when blindfolded??? I’m sure he knows if it’s brighter....

@@the1satsuma1project I agree with you

Exactly, makes it look like a kit guitar, that sound though.

Ceramic capacitors are not made to pass signals through. They have nonlinear behavior and don't act like a pure capacitor in certain situations. They also have horrendous tolerance. There isn't anything special about an orange drop though. Any decent quality film capacitor, be it 50 cents or some crazy trendy $20 paper in oil cap will act similarly in a low voltage application like a guitar tone circuit (high voltage is something else since certain capacitors are better than others at working at several hundred volts like in a tube amp). Orange drops happen to be convenient because they are easy to work with due to their long radially mounted leads and rugged epoxy coating that protects the polymer film of the capacitor from accidental bumps from a soldering iron while installing. The "orange drop" line actually has several products within it with differing internal constructions so there is not even an actual single "orange drop" capacitor.