I have been a boat mechanic for almost 30 years, and this is an amazing product. I definitely recommend using his tools and the bottoming tap. It is a smooth operation with detailed instructions. I will never pull an engine to replace a gimbal ring again. Thank you, and we look forward to doing business with you in the future!

I just finished a gimbal ring replacement job on my alpha 1 gen 2 using this kit. What a simple process this was. Follow the instructions and don't get in a hurry. Thanks JR Marine for the kit and the You Tube videos. Saved me hundreds of $$. Ron - Clearlake Tx - 1996 Bayliner 2452.

Ok so thank you for saving me a bunch of time, money and grief right after i finish writing this comment I'm going to put a for sale sign on my boat

I got a gimbal ring last fall from ol' Ron at JR and replaced the worn out one in my Alpha drive. It's a big job, but doable. One thing I can tell you from experience is this - that lower pin in the gimbal ring and transom tabs may be corroded and if so, it can be damned hard to get out. He talks about this around the 19:00 mark in this video and basically recommends cutting it out with a sawzall then doing some drilling or something. I actually tried the saw thing and I don't know how in the hell that is supposed to work. I ruined four blades and didn't put a scratch on the pin. It's hardened steel and best I can tell there ain't no cutting it out. I got to thinking that the only way it would come out of there is with some kind of press. I talked to a guy who does this type of work and he confirmed that notion. So DON'T GO HAMMERING AWAY on that area or you'll break the transom plate tabs off and then you're royally screwed. Leave the hammers in the toolbox. The way I ended up doing it worked great. It just took a little time. Here's what I used... * Big 'C' Clamp (12" I think it was) * Shims (I used some big stainless washers that were slightly larger I.D. than the pin's O.D. as shims. They're thinner than steel washers, can be stacked and fill the gaps better. I split them in halves so that they looked like a 'C' and slid them in on both sides of the pin in the gaps between upper & lower transom tabs and top and bottom sides of gimbal ring.) * Sockets (You will need two sockets. A 1" or maybe 1-1/8" for the bottom of the pin and the one for the top needs to be a slightly smaller O.D. than the pin O.D. I think it's about a 1/2", but I can't recall for sure - sorry - but it's easy to figure out.) Now here's what you do... 1) Once you have all the bellows, shift cable, cotter pin, etc. out of the way, use a propane torch and put a little heat on the top and bottom of the pin where it comes through the transom tabs. Get it pretty warm, then spray it with some good penetrating oil. I used Kroil and let it soak overnight. 2) Place the shims in the gaps as described above. Use as many shims (i.e. washers) as you need to COMPLETELY fill the gaps between the tabs and gimbal ring. THIS IS IMPORTANT because once you start applying pressure with the clamp, you only want to be pushing on the pin itself and NOT squeezing the tabs together which could break one of them. This is why you MUST have some type of shims in there to fill the gaps so that the tabs are held solid. You can see the gaps I'm talking about in the video. Look where he puts the saw blade in above and below the gimbal ring. That's where the shims go. 3) Put on some gloves and safety glasses for the remaining steps. Place the big socket (with open end facing up) on the bottom transom tab over the hole where the pin is and the smaller socket on top of the pin on the upper tab. Then put 'C' clamp ends on both sockets. Tighten the clamp slightly and see that it is on there squarely and that the sockets are in the right places. Begin steadily tightening the 'C' clamp. Basically, what you're doing is pushing the pin down through the top transom tab using the smaller socket, then on through both the gimbal ring and lower tab and into the big socket on the bottom. 4) I applied quite a bit of pressure, then heard a loud 'pop' as the pin broke loose. The clamp came off of there somewhat violently which is why I recommend using some personal protective equipment. The pin was nearly all the way out and I was able to completely push it the rest of the way out of the bottom using a 3/8" extension. This sounds like a long and drawn out method, but it's really not and it does work without tearing up vital pieces. The rest of the repair went pretty quickly. Hope this helps some of you guys out, good luck...

I perform this job watching this video 3 years ago, as today the entire job still performing as expected i got the kit online from JR Marine. thanks for the information and I am more that welcome to share photos to anyone that request it.

I discovered a good way to remove the small upper steering shaft bushing, the one at the upper end of the swivel shaft. It is a blind bushing (no access behind it) and so, a special tool that expands inside it is specified. That made no sense to me - expanding a bushing in order to remove it from the hole that holds it tightly. I found the answer on an automotive site: remove it hydraulically! After the yoke is removed, reach in and fill the upper bearing cavity with grease. Then, reinsert the old swivel shaft and hit the end of it with a hammer. The pressure created inside the bearing cavity will push the bushing out! I started with a small hammer but had to work my way up to a 5# before it moved - it takes some force - but it finally did the trick. As the bushing comes out, it will eventually encounter the threads on the old swivel shaft. Remove the shaft, add some additional grease, and repeat until it pops out. I'm grateful for your excellent products and videos and hope that in some way this tip helps everyone do a more complete repair at almost no cost.

Thank You for posting this video. Was very helpful. i modified your instructions a bit for my convenience. The side bolt for the steering arm can be done with 1 wrench on the outside then turn hard right and a socket with a universal from the inside by the engine. As they are tight a big breaker bar was needed. I could not have this job had I not seen your video. THANK YOU SO VERY MUCH!!!!

Hice ese trabajo sin tirar el motor de su lugar y sin modificar las piezas originales, solo modifique mis herramientas, si una persona de ayuda.

No point it fighting the driveshaft bellows out since you're pulling the whole thing apart, it'll just drop out. The plastic water hose retainer can be removed with the proper tool or a pair of needle nose and re-used.

Thanks for posting. Great job.

u know what your doing thanks for posting

I have a Alpha 1 Drive 0C558211. The trim limit and indicator need replacing. I have take the drive apart to so. Where can I purchase the cover plate kit?

I'm Brazilian and I need to print the model to make the cut. where can i get it please

Pro level vid👍

Can you tell us what amount of play is considered excessive or the angle which is considered excessive? I have about 3.5” at the end of my outdrive worth of play (7.72 degrees).

Man ! Sure hope I never have to do this.

Sound like a guy that’s done this a few hundred times

Do you have a procedure video for a ceased merc 350 v8?

I am looking at a 2001 reinell 240 and there is about 2 inches of side to side play in the Bravo outdrive. There is about 4 to 6 inch of play in the steering wheel. The Marina says this is normal and not to worry about it. I know it's not normal and I know the boat is not worth 14000 with this problem. Any suggestions?

I love this! Are you a service school instructor? I got my pencil! Class has started!

Did the bellows repair you did stop the leak?

Why has the cost of this repair doubled from a year ago?

What is that outboard jack? Is it custom made or can it be purchased?

What generation 1 or 2? thanks

Need help installation engine v6 4.3 in the boat sea ray pl

Id be pulling the engine not that big of a deal. And remove transom assay instead of butchering the transom plate and that way you can ponder what to do with the leaking transom seal that all the mercruser boats have when your boat is in the water the water is slowly leaking down the transom studs into the wood coring material and rotting. It out look at the studs on any transom assay and their rusted to hell i wish some one would make a gasket for this like the trs drives and the 3 drives have they sealed. Better yet look at all the calk around the transom plates its a pain in the ass to make this. Gasket I use gasket material a cork and rubber comp material rather buy one i use a transom drilling fixture to cut the gasket out one quarter inch thick gasket material and it don't leak. I level factory seal in place and a little life calk no silicone life calk

Where do I order the kit?

I have a 1987 wellcraft 210 classic water trickling inside boat at transom near exhaust/transom behind exhaust bellows. will tear in exhaust bellows let water in or is it likely i have a corroded exhaust horn?

Oh man this is alot of work...

Hi where do I get the template from please for the cut out

How can I get the template and cover

the swivel shaft bearing is bad will that let water in the boat

Lol, don't try this at home kids...

who ever said boat repair was easy work ?

How much play is too much play. I have about 2” each side.

You are okay you crazy or what

*gimbal

Do not put any holes in your out drive ,, cost me $ 3500 off trade in value , Dealers can not sell your boat with a hole chiseled out of the gimbal housing ,, so all the work you do gets thrown out and replaced with new housing , and U bolt, ect, ect, , stay away from this if you ever think of selling or trading the boat ,,

All wrong

This guy is the biggest hack I have ever seen