Way to go!

Good luck!

me too!

Thanks for coming

Thanks!

Rex sent me! TY Graham, for the inside skinny on how to sharpen a saw. Brilliant.

Me too

Thanks!

I usually file from alternate sides, butthe stoning of a leading side works.

My pleasure!

Wow, thanks

Wow, thank you!

Very welcome

Glad it was helpful!

Yes they are!

So pleased, and grateful hi's to Rex too.

Thanks so much. Appreciated!

Wow, thank you!

Glad you like them!

Glad you like them!

My pleasure!

Great!

Glad it was helpful!

Glad you liked it!

Thanks, will do!

Glad you like it - not my idea, people have used it for a long time!

Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for coming (and thank Rex)

Thanks!

Thank you so much!

Both points true!

Thanks and welcome

Welcome!!

Thaank you!

The point I tried to make was that lacking a full-size rip saw and a full-size crosscut saw, the panel saw is a good compromise for relatively small work. But yes, a slightly coarser panel saw (like the 7tpi crosscut panel saw I used) will work better as a ripsaw than a finer toothed saw. Hope this hlps. Thanks for watching.

If the saw cuts to the right, just lightly file the right hand side teeth, and if to the left file the left hand side. I'll try and include a demo in an upcoming episode.

Glad you like it!

For big framing timbers, saws similar to the one in the video introduction; for smaller workpieces, regular ripsaws would be used, the larger then better ,6tpi for example.

@@gjbmunc thank you. I wondered if they maybe used small bucking saws (like a 1 man version of the saw hanging on the outside of your shop)

Softer woods such as pine or cedar can use a lower TPI such as 3 or 4 tpi. Lower tpi can be more prone to tooth breakage but can cut much faster if care is used. Lower tpi also requires more force to push and should be tailored per user.

@@nicocortez102 thank you. I'm actually just experimenting with a 4ppi to rip boards off a locust log. It seems to be working fine. I've yet to see a 3ppi saw. I didn't even consider that. My brain stopped at 4 for some reason. Thank you

Possibly but more likely a sign of too much effort and inaccuracy on your part.

A panel saw may be regarded as a small crosscut saw (because that's how the teeth are filed) but because of its small size it can also be used on small workpieces as a rip saw - which would be hard work with a full-size crosscut saw.

@@gjbmunc thanks!

You're welcome!

I would keep an eye out for shorter, smaller panel saws whose teeth you could file to be either crosscut or rip.

@@gjbmunc I actually have 2 new saws. Each is 22inches, which is on the shorter end of the spectrum and the teeth on each are perfect. Regardless the length and the teeth, the handles are too large for my smaller hands. How do you suggest modifying the handles so that they fit my hands and remain in balance with the panel? There must surely be a way to address this, but it seems nobody has considered this issue and I’m nervous about doing something that could ruin my new saws.

Perhaps you could make your own handle?

@@roadtriplover. How are you feeling with your saws? I just wanted to share that I (male) took an extended woodworking class in which 1/4 of the class were women (3 women). They used the same saws as the men. Based on this, I think you can have confidence in your tools right now as they are, confidence that they can do the job for you. They may feel funny since this is a new skill, but give them and you some time. When we are learning challenging things, there is nothing worse than having doubts creep in, doubts that something is wrong that makes things impossible. While I can easily believe that handles might be changed to suit women's hands _better,_ I would expect that they are good enough as they are to allow quite a lot of excellent work. As long as you are not struggling to hold the saw at all and as long as you can relax (which is part of the learning), you can proceed with confidence. I think where women had the hardest time was with the combination square. Reaching across a piece of work with the outer fingers while holding the square with the thumb tightly against the work can be an insurmountable challenge with smaller hands. Tricks there are to use an engineer's square instead of a combination square because the handles are much narrower and, more importantly, put the work in the vise to use the square. Now you can focus on pushing the square without reaching across to squeeze from the other side of the work. I hope this helps and hope Graham doesn't mind me chiming in. This is meant as "students helping classmates."

@@ef2b Hmmm. Thanks, I think. I don’t lack confidence and I’m not new to using saws. I’ve performed construction work for many years. I am new to using the larger variety of hand tools. Where I might have used a circular, table, band, miter or jig saw for previous work, I’m now using panel saws. I can use the man-hand panel saws as they are, but the handles are really big and uncomfortable, which requires a more exhausting grip. My hand and arm gets tired faster, as the handles are not comfortable or easy to grip. While many women “can” use man-hand sized panel saws, it doesn’t mean they are either comfortable or not exhausting for women, who have smaller hands, to use. I haven’t had any problem with a combination square in all the years I’ve been performing construction tasks, so no issues there. So, again, thanks. I’m really hoping for advice re: how to shape/size the handles of my saws so they are easier for me to hold and less tiring to use so that I can practice more and grow my skills for hand tool furniture making. Take care.

Thanks!

thanks!

That's how some people refer to them, but I think strictly speaking (and few of us are really strict) 'panel' saw means a smaller unbacked handsaw.

If it helps, when buying a panel saw from Skelton Saws, I was told that the name “panel saw” comes from their common job of cutting panel pieces.

You're right, new ones are often not as good as old ones you might find on eBay. However, I think the Spear andf Jackson one sold on Amazon is OK.