Thanks mate 🤙

Thanks Ben. Appreciate the support 🤙

Thanks mate🤙

Yew! That’s what I like to hear. Good luck man 🤙

🤙

Thanks Mike. Much appreciated mate 🤙

Yew! Good luck

You’re welcome 🤙🤙

Hah thanks mate. Yeh I was definitely thinking a fish for the next one. With a nice resin swirl 👌

@@Shrednaught yeah man that would be amazing!! Also one of my biggest struggle is about shaping a nice round and not too thick nose 🙏🏻🤙🏻

@@Nayda44 👌

Fish/swallow tail lamination is still bugging my mind on how to do it clean after the 3 fishes i shaped. Would love to see a vid on those. Goodstuff!

@@daanschiltz8990 I’ll definitely do a fish. One of my favourite boards to surf.

You’re welcome. Haha don’t worry I still get the sweats when doing them. They’re definitely a tonne more work that’s for sure 🤙

Thanks mate 🤙

Thanks mate I appreciate it. 🤙

Cheers 🤙

Cheers man 🤘

Yew!

Aw spewing man. How did ya go?

Thanks mate 🍻

Sounds like a plan 🤙

Thanks for watching mate. Yeh it’s just a simple rack that I chucked into 2 buckets of concrete. Does the job. I’ll keep those suggestions in mind. I do know a lot of people would also like to see the rails and concaves so I’ll definitely do a video on them in the future 🤙

Thanks mate. Glad you enjoyed it 🤙

@@Shrednaught were are you at

Western Australia

ah spewing man. At least you'll know for the next one

@@Shrednaught First time shaping a board so learning a few lessons the hard way haha

It only get easier mate. Each board you will learn something

🤘thanks for watching

Yew!

Thanks dude. I have , but not the same as these type of channels. I actually like the way epoxy gels. I just baby it until it’s tacky. Takes a touch more time.

👌

I like the sound of that 🤙

Thank you 🤙 I do a lot of glass on fins. I’ll film the next ones I do

Yew!

I’ll be doing some videos like that in the future man. The templates can be downloaded. I create mine on an app called IShaper then download them. Or you can go to blending curves and get the pre designed and free downloads

Glad it’s helpful 🤘 yeh I re use them. I wipe as much resin out as I can then clean with acetone and then place them in a Tupperware container with some acetone in and put the lid on. Take them out and let dry before use and good to go. With the cheap chip brushes you can only get away with this a few times before they disintegrate

Hah thanks man. Yeh definitely that will work. Purple and green work really well together.

0.5% roughly. But don’t forget the hot lam clear mix to kick it after you’ve done the colour work.

Thanks mate. No issues with the glue showing BUT if you overuse the glue it will show up a silvery colour. The glass soaks it in I think and doesn’t wet out properly. So just a light dusting 🤙

Yew! Thanks for watching mate 🤘

It definitely wasn’t my idea mate. I’m sure I read about it somewhere.. maybe swaylocks website. Just made perfect sense. But if you do over saturate the glue soaks into the glass and blocks the resin so that’s something that I found out the hard way 😅

Yeh the swirl was already catalysing but only slowly. The hot mix makes sure that it’s all going to go off

super useful tip! thank you@@Shrednaught

I only had 0.5% in the colour that’s why I also used a hot lam mix to speed things up. Yup same spray for rail tapes 🤙

That’s weird.. I went and tested some of the eps I have in the shed yes y and sprayed a massive amount on it in a small area and it was fine. I wonder if different eps density reacts differently? But regardless even with poly a light dusting is all that’s needed. It can leave your fibreglass “ dry” if you spray too much and it soaks in

@@Shrednaught Could also be whats in the air or propellant, I've hear rattle can acrylic can do the same thing. The test I did I used a ton and had slight melting, but using only a dusting worked really well. Currently testing to see if just brushing resin on the channels and letting it tack is better.

@@WaveWasters yew! Good luck

@@Shrednaught Didn't go as smooth as I hoped definitely sticking to the spray next time

@@WaveWasters damn. That’s why I do the combo. Try to cover my back on both sides. Epoxy should be fairly easy to fix up

Thanks 🤙 Channels are an individual preference. I personally don’t surf them.. but the channels on this board are there to keep the concave through the tail increasing drive. Also as it will be used as a 2 + 1 they sill hopefully make the tail hold better through turns 🤘

Yeh I’ve done that before. Gives a tie dye effect. Looks cool. Heaps of guys doing it on Instagram. Chemistry surfboards is one that comes to mind

No worries. Yeh so I paste the resin in there and let it start to gel. That way it holds down the glass a bit more. 🤙

@@Shrednaught That's what I thought, I just wanted to be sure. Thanks again for the video, I'm going to try it all!

Next fish I do I’ll make sure 🤙

Yup of course. You can hand shape a board with just a few different types of sand paper and blocks. Obviously it’s slightly more time consuming but it’s doable

You can head to backyard surfboard shapers on Facebook or sway locks website for quite a bit of free info. Just remember to take some things with a grain of salt… as like most things on the internet some things said are not accurate. I’m pretty sure you can buy a pre shaped blank and even a “kit” from shapers.com and they’re from east coast. Other than that you can always hit me up for super specific questions. 🤙

@@Shrednaught Amazing thanks for getting back to me so quickly! Love your content. Just subbed. Can’t wait to see more. Maybe you could do a vid / review on a shapers kit? I’m sure there are tonnes of ppl out there that want to shape / glass at least one board in their life 😎✌🏻

That’s an awesome idea. I’ll look into it for a future vid 🤘

@@Shrednaught 🙌🏻

That’s a hard question to answer. As for what works best.. what works for me and my location might be trash for you and your waves. With out knowing what setup your running I can’t give you a definite answer but what we have been running has been boards with a rounded tail and a 2 + 1 setup with a single concave running into a 4 channel through the fin cluster. All channels toe in with the fins at 1/8 degree. Channels can be a personal preference and I’m not a huge channel guy but my mates are. I can get the same drive and hold with different fins or clusters. Are you shaping this board yourself or have a shaper local?

@@Shrednaught haha, channels are tricksy and that’s why I’m asking the wiser men. For context, I live in South Africa and mostly surf along the Eastern Cape and around Cape Town. Hitting some of our cranking point breaks and I am progressing towards heavier beachies that really throw some big barrels. I’m sticking clear of the additional stabiliser fin so far and mostly alternating between keel fins and as it’s called here tweel fins which are like keels with a wide base but give more pivot and release thanks to a steeper leading edge and more of a hook in the rake. Kinda like HP Keels. Works well with the keels on the inside edge for point breaks to knife into the face on takeoff but also to release and pivot when hitting the top! I bought my first twinnie second hand but I can get hold of the shaper [GONZO] who also lives on the East Coast near JBay. It’s modelled on the fiji performance twin that Toryn Martyn rides but squashed down to 6’0” - and I’m keen to see what it’s like stretched out as a mid length (6’8” - 7’2”) Maintain the low entry rocker on the nose and the rounded tail; I’m also wondering how far up the channels should go on the longer board. Haha, so many factors, I really just want to focus on one or two elements to tweak on the next iteration - sheesh gathered already so much going on with these twin pin channel bottoms but it’s so much fun to ride!

That sounds sick! Spewing it was stolen. Redwood sounds interesting though. Is it going to be hollow or chambered?

@@Shrednaught Thanks man! Totally will be chambered!

It does depend on skill but I’d go 0.5% The clear lam mix after this will speed it up to a workable level. Otherwise you’ll be waiting forever and a day for it to go hard. 🤙

3m spray adhesive. Can’t remember the exact product number off the top of my head. Just email them and ask which is compatible with eps foam. And only ever apply a small amount as a larger amount can cause issues.

I didn’t kick the coloured resin as quick/ hot as I normally would to give me some extra time. The clear resin is catalysed quite hot/ high and this will help the tinted resin kick and make sure it all goes off fast enough

@@Shrednaught. Thanks for replying. 🤙🏼 If you laminated the same board with channels but NO swirl, would you have still used little catalyst to give you time to work on the channels?

Na, not necessary. But you can still do it depending on your skill level. I normally just catalyse normally without channels.

@@Shrednaught Yours was the first video I’ve seen that explained how to mix resin when doing a swirl and how to glass channels. Thanks.

🤘

I’m pretty sure that if you only do a light dusting on eps with the glue it doesn’t melt it. 99% sure but let me spray and off cut and get back to you 🤙

Just went and sprayed an off cut of eps with a thick layer of that glue and it’s all good man. Doesn’t melt eps

@@Shrednaught that's good to know mate, thanks for the rapid test. Enjoying your videos and swirl experiments, doing some of my own too!

@@foamhacker6396 yew!

Hey mate, you can add tint to a hot coat, but only for a couple of styles. One is to do a trashed tint or patina style. I’ll have a video on that soon. And the other is to make a tinted lam job more deep in colour. It won’t work to cover a clear lam

@@Shrednaught ALright! Thanks for your help brother.

All good man 🤙

I drop the catalyst ratio in the swirl to give me more time. Once I’ve got that laid down I then do a hot ( higher catalysed ) clear lam mix over that to ensure that all of the colour work goes off in a timely manner

@@Shrednaught do you make sure to get the hot mix on the deck laps as well?

Yup I do try to get it all the way around onto the laps. It’s not a huge issue if I miss a spot because all the resin is catalysed it just affects the cure speed. 🤘

Yup works with epoxy too. That’s a little trick to get your carbon to stay in place when doing stringerless eps / epoxy

@@Shrednaught I asked because if that contains same aerosol as spray paint, the resin will look runny. It happened to me before. That's why I only use acrylic/water based paint.

@@Surfmus if you use the exact brand 3M spray in the video and apply lightly there won’t be an issue. Over use can have negative effects

Thanks for the info. I will look into them first thing tomorrow. I definitely need to improve the audio. Cheers 🤙

@@Shrednaught Even just a lapel mic will make a huge difference. If you are going to only do voice pieces to camera and not while moving around a corded mic will be fine. iK also make some great phone holders that might be helpful?

Damn making it a challenge 😅

I do have a blank that I’ve been thinking of doing a finless with.. plus I like the idea of not having to do the fin boxes haha

@@Shrednaught the design can be totally radical. Build already 2 of them, (one a 9'9 footer).

@@tonybeatbutcher a 9’9 🤯

@@Shrednaught Yes, 2 deep channels and the stringer popping out as fin-replacer. It's a round nose next time I'll make one with a more pointy nose.