Great video. Well explained and shot. A few noteable things not included in video. 1 The steering assembly/wheel will be completely free and it will help to have your seat moved forward enough to rest the wheel on while working. 2 Disconnect the plastic floor air tube and move it out of your way. 3 There is a black plastic cover on the original sensor that has 3 points that have to be popped to remove it from the sensor. Dont forget to put it back on the new sensor once you install it. 4 The 2 black metal spacers are for the back 2 mounting studs. There are none on the front 2 studs.

Some techs joke around about being KZfaq certified, but man... there really is some helpful stuff on here.

Thanks to this video I was able to replace that sensor myself, the video had all the information that you need plus very easy to follow step by step instructions, seen other videos about this same issue and they forget to tell to tape the steering wheel and disconnect your battery, this guy in my humble opinion did and outstanding video, thanks so much.

Best how to video on KZfaq! I watch a lot of videos, usually there is 20 minutes of talking, stuff that's not relevant to the repair. This video is straight to the point with clear explanations and edited perfectly with no time wasted.

Just did this repair in an hour flat after watching this video(twice). Well done and thank you! Only note I would add is that the warnings didn't clear immediately, had to drive it a short distance.So don't panic if they are still there when you first start after the repair.

Boss made me do his Escalade . the toughest part of the job is being 63 and having to lay on your back or your side trying to work under the dash. Saw this video, and it helped tremendously. great verbal instructions, and good camera shots made the job almost easy. Thanks.

Great video, camera work, and advice! Been look at replacing mine on a 2013 Tahoe and finally braved it up. Saved me $531 from what the dealership was going to charge. There were very few videos on this and this summed it up nicely. Thankful for the video!

Finally got that annoying traction control light to turn off on my Tahoe. Thanks for the video

Four years later this video is of great help to me. I thank you very much for the information. Awesome video..

Audio and video quality is excellent. Most viewers appreciate it, but don't know what it takes to set up to make a great video like this.

Thanks man. You just saved me hundreds of dollars. Been driving my truck like this over a year, fixed it today!

This video was spot on for my 2012 Yukon. I removed my front seat because I'm a really big guy and not very flexible. I also hung my steering wheel from my visor with a tie-down strap so I could have both ends supported with room to work under the dash. I was able to remove the three T25 screws from above the steering column so I didn't have to turn it over like in the video. Again great video Aaron.

Probably the best "Automotive How to Repair" video I've seen. Concise, complete, and to the point with the just right amount of detail. Replaced the steering sensor on my Tahoe today. Thank you!

Dude!! This job was a pain in the ass but my son and I got it done thanks to you!!! Thanks for your help!!

Worked perfectly on my 2012 avalanche. Finding the new/original AC Delco part may be difficult online these days. GM actually has a bulletin to try and "secure the sensor with foam tape" 😭 After countless stabilitrak problems that I thought were linked to heat and or tire pressure I finally scanned the stabilitrak code... The job only took about an hour and a half thanks to the video. I was pulling my hair out trying to fix... just drove truck 45 mins and no stabilitrak problems. Thank you!!!!!

Thanks for taking the time to make this dude! Gonna repair my parents Yukon this afternoon and this is a god send!

Thanks for this video. Concise and accurate. Just completed the replacement on a 2012 Silverado. Job isn't too bad, worst part is awkwardness of body positions to get at things. Took about 2 hours and a few 4 letter words, but it's done. Be prepared to have a plethora of socket extensions to get the right lengths to get access/clearance to do work.

Thank you for making this video! 2013 suburban here & I’ve had those stupid dash lights on intermittently for almost two years. Scary & intense fix for a novice but honestly couldn’t have been easier thanks to the video

The video helped immensely. I replaced the sensor on my 2012 Silverado last night. I was able to access the plate with torx 25 bits from the top using a specialized tiny ratchet. The tape didn’t hold my wheel. However, I didn’t break the clock spring by being conscious of movements. On a pain in the neck scale, I rate this an 8! I will hire it out if this ever happens again. Thank you for your video! Even though the Silverado had minor differences.

Thanks brother, great video. Help me get mine knocked out. For those of you that have one that comes on that does not set a code, comes on only after the cab heats up. It’s the steering wheel position sensor.

Thanks Aaron for this video! I was getting the Service Stabilitrac Error for over a month and ordered the AC Delco part from RockAuto. It's been hit and miss weather with intermittent snow and showers too so everything sort of had to line up. I did initially try Euresko's idea below from GM service bulletin PI0639a to clean the plugs at the connection to the steering sensor and then use short strips of electricians tape to build up the inside of the switch to take away excess movement - and it even seemed to help. I backed my Sierra up about 10ft before the error chimed when before it seemed to happen within a couple of feet of moving. So I sucked it up and started taking things apart as per your video. I found for the 4 x 15mm nuts that a long 3/8" extension with a 5/8" sparkplug socket worked great to get them off. The bottom two 15mm nuts used a swivel to help with the angles too. One thing that I don't think your video emphasized was that the shifting cable that loops right near the bottom of the steering column in the cab needs to be tucked into that wire cage attached to the retainer that keeps the steering position switch in place on the column. Initially mine wasn't and I had to remove the column bolt and loosen the four 15mm nuts to give enough movement for me to get the cable into the cage. As far as taping the wheel goes I used painters tape, duct tape and hockey tape. I was afraid I'd accidentally grab the wheel to help me adjust my position so I made sure it wasn't going to move. So finally after getting it all together and attaching the negative battery terminal I gave it a try. And NO MORE ERROR! It made my week. Possibly my month.

Always a good idea to disconnect the negative cable first to avoid arching if any load is on the battery.Great tutorial on a common GM problem!!!1

As a fellow tech. I thank you good sir saved me alot of hassle

I love these types of educational DIY videos especially when they are well made and to the point. GREAT JOB really appreciate it.

Thanks! You helped me change out a bad one on my wife's 2011 Suburban. Your video saved me a lot of money

Thanks for the video. Helped a bunch. I'm definitely a short bus when it comes to mechanic work. You made it easier.

No lead in bullshit, very complete video this is a great tutorial. Thank you.

this was the fix for my 2010 suburban with service stabilitrak/stabilitrak off message. I was not getting any codes. The service light would come on most commonly in hot weather. Initially I tried getting the wheel speed sensors checked, then researched and tried some of the ground upgrades. But this the was the fix. Thank you,

First of all i am very thankful to uploader i saved almost $600. I had same error, checked with meter and got same error code. I ordered the sensor and changed it. My Truck is 100% fine :-)

I dont hardly ever leave reviews or comments, but I got to thank you brother. After ordering the part and having it there for 2 weeks I decided to change it myself and it fixed my service traction control light on my 2012 silverado I dont know hoe much but you saved me alot of money with this video thanks again from a new subscriber

Right to the point without annoying intro. Like for you.

Great video, very informative! Took me about an hour in my driveway! Finally did this back burner project because of this video showing how to do it without removing the entire column. Thanks!

This is a great video. I just wanted to add... On a 2014 suburban you don't need to rotate the column to access the torx bolts on the top of the column. Just rest the steering wheel on the seat and you can get both hands down between the column and the instrument cluster with plenty of room for a ratchet. Also, the sensor has a black cover on the back which helps hold it from sliding down the column. Don't forget to put it back.

2012 Avalanche thank you for the help it made this job so much easier.

Hats off to Aaron Hines. I just did this fix on a 2007 Express Van. Not sure if any of this knowledge appears elsewhere. Let me share my info because it is fresh in my mind. I have an extensive background in data acquisition design. I am not a know-it-all and I'm not here to show you how frigging smart I am. I am grateful to people like Aaron and also my friend Steve who runs a repair shop in Dover, NH. This sensor is very delicate and complicated. Before I start getting techy, DO NOT REMOVE THE CENTERING PIN until the right time. The purpose of this sensor is to help the ECM (main brain,) compensate for the fact that wheels turn at different speeds when you are cornering. The traction control and the ABS module work together. Wheel speed sensors tell the ECM how fast each wheel is spinning. The steering wheel angle sensor tells the ECM what angle the steering wheel is, whether you are going straight, turning left or right. If you are turning to the right, the outside wheels (on the left) are going to spin faster, assuming you are on dry pavement. If you are turning to the left, the outside wheels are now on the right, and they are going to be spinning faster on dry pavement. The job of the ABS module is to apply more or less pressure to the brake calipers to keep the vehicle moving safely forward. This helps when any one of the wheels is moving faster or slower than it would be on dry pavement. So, for example, if you're driving along and hit the brakes just as you cross an ice patch, the wheel speed sensors tell the ABS module that suddenly one of your wheels (the one on the ice) has come to a stop while the other wheels are still turning. The ECM is getting data from both the wheel speed sensors and the steering wheel angle sensor. If one or more of your wheel speed sensors is malfunctioning, then the ECM is receiving garbage data. This is why the ECM will turn on the ABS light if the data from the wheel speed sensors doesn't make sense or is inconsistent. If your steering wheel angle sensor is sending data that is unreliabled (such as, the data says you went lock to lock in 1/10th of a second, this is impossible.) In many suspicious cases, the ABS and/or traction control modules shut down and this is when the dash lights come on. What the computer does is to check data during the first minute or so while you are driving. If any of the data seems impossible, the ABS and/or traction control functions are simply turned off, which is what the dash warning lights are telling you. ====== In a nutshell, that's how the ABS and traction control work. There is a lot of overlap between the two systems and a lot of the work that goes into operating each module is very intelligent guesswork. There is a checklist, kind of like: o If one of the wheel speed sensors is delivering erroneous data, then shut down the ABS, because its computer can't make educated decisions is data is missing. o If the steering wheel angle sensor is delivering bad data, shut down the ABS and the traction control, because if the computer can't calculate anticipated data (it can't compensate for turning speeds if the steering wheel angle is unknown,) it cannot correctly perform traction control. ----------- The steering wheel angle sensor does not record any data. It simply reports to the ECM that you turned left or turned right, and it also reports how quickly you turned the steering wheel. That's it. However, the ECM keeps a record of your last setting in RAM. Think about it like this. You parked your car and the wheels were at an angle, so the next time you start the car, it uses this last position to calculate the next time you turn the wheel when the car is on. If you replace the sensor, you need to erase this, "last time used," data. You can do this by either disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes or erasing ECM RAM with an OBDII tool. ====== What does the centering wire do? The one that says don't remove unless you absolutely sure. At the factory, there are three geared wheels inside the sensor that are precisely alighned and then the wired is inserted to keep them in that position until the part is inserted. If you remove the wire and then disturb the wheels, you have little to no chance of ever getting it back to the factory position. This is because the wire has to go through the back of the case, through the high speed sensor wheel, through the low speed sensor wheel and then into a stop in the bottom of the case. FOUR things have to be aligned, and you can't see any of them. Even worse, the reduction gears are not set to some simple reduction ratio such as 4:1, etc, but to some weird 11.3:1 ratio. We tested this by disassembling a unit, marking all three of the gears inside and testing it by hand. It's hard to the align the gears even if you have the unit opened up. ----- So, follow Aaron's instructions. Be careful to sort of do it in this order. 1. Disconnect battery. 2. Disconnect steering column as he shows. Disassembly is similar between vans, SUVs, trucks. 3. Clear all the codes in the ECM with an OBDII scanner. If you don't the ECM will use the last setting from the bad sensor that you removed and you will go an a wild goose chase. In this case, the ECM doesn't know the sensor was replaced. 4. Install the new sensor and then turn the car back on. MOST IMPORTANTLY: Tape the steering wheel as Aaron says and don't remove the pin until after you have reset the data in the ECM either by disconnecting the battery or using the OBDII sensor. Hopefully I saved you time and money. We spent hours and hours and hours on this and eventually decided to figure it out for real and share the info.

Thank you so much spent last year going to dealers only to be told part discontinued. Your video gave me the part and I was able to install next day THANK YOU!!!

I followed your step by step video for my 2011Chevrolet Silverado 1500 . 👍👏

If you have a gmc sierra that calls for a 6pin it's discontinued, buy the 8pin. I just did mine and it works great! 59$ well spent. Thanks for your video it was very helpful 👍

God bless everything you do in life you saved me a huge headache

Yes sir thank you I’m doing mine tomorrow I’ll let you know how it turns out lol thank you brother your a blessing 🙏🏻

I did everything you did but wish I would of watched your video before I did mine. Well explained an you show the steps

I have a 2010 Silverado 2500HD and had the infamous clunking noise in the steering column. I followed this procedure to access and replace the steering column bearing that the sensor snaps in to. Worked like a charm and no more annoying clunking noise when I drive across bumps in the road.

Thanks for all the information and details,

very good information--thank you------just did a steering rack on tahoe and after have steering angle sensor codes(there is only one way to get the shaft onto steering gear)

Great video! Took me a solid hour JUST to take the sensor out on a 2012 GMC Yukon Hybrid Denali. When I started the job, I've noticed that my GMC had some extra accessories laying around and in the way...not sure because it's the Hybrid or what. And it appeared that everything was further down (deeper) and way harder to get to. Now, the more challenging part, putting everything back together lol.

I just want to say thank you for this. I've been dreading doing this for the past month because of another video I watched. After seeing yours I decided to tackle it and it was actually really straight forward. THANKS!

Just wanted to send you a note to thank you for this great video. I have had this issue on my 2013 Silverado for sometime and it had gotten worse to where the service stabilitrack and traction control were on all of the time. I did this by myself so here are a couple of suggestions that helped me. 1) Supporting the steering column with a strap ( as Cliff mentioned) helps to control the weight of the steering column 2) You may want to break the bolt free connecting the steering column to the intermediate shaft before you remove the 4 nits holding the steering column. 3) You can access the 3 torx screws from the top but make sore you push the bracket all the way up so the screw holes align since this is a blind assembly..

Excellent video. Did it myself. I used a dorman, working so far. Took 1/2 hour.

Awesome video! Just knocked mine out and saved a ton of $$$. God Bless you man!!!!

Fixed my 14 tahoe with the same issue, also fixed my tire pressure warning along the way somehow, thank you for your video man and not bullshiting around done in 1hr with a few good tools

Aaron Great video. Had to replace mine in my 2014 tahoe. Of course you made it look easy. Took me 2.5 hours to do this. Just hard getting tools in there and be able to see where the bolts are located. Glad Im not a mechanic. I appreciate you indicating the tools needed for the job when you started the video. Reading the clip below from josh hanby, dealership wants $500 + for this job. glad I toughed it out. Reading Thomas below I had the same issue, I just cleared out the error codes with my scanner and the Stabilitrack light never came back on. Job completed. A++++++++

Thanks a lot for putting this video together. I was just able to complete this repair myself using this and saved myself a few hundred dollars. Thanks again!!!

Hey man thank for the video very detailed, I just replaced mine during work hours. Didn’t took me long.

Thank you for this video. It is the best how to for this. I replaced it in my 2012 sierra 1500 no issues. Tip for keeping tying spacers in place, use a little strip of duct tape the keep them in place while moving the steering column into place.

Thanks! Just replaced mine and no more telltales! Also replaced two up stream O2 sensors last week. Now I'm driving an almost new truck. lol My 2013 Chevy Silverado did have a black cover over the position sensor with three clips. I had to lift the tabs on the three clips and pull it off before I could slide the position sensor off.

Camera angle/illumination wise, is the best video related to this issue. Thanks a lot brother.

Thank you for making this video duramax Denali has a few subtle differences but this video helped immensely.

Used this as reference, Got it done about 1 hours, great video!

It’s totally different for a 2014, yours was a whole lot easier than mine

Thanks for making a pain in the butt repair a lot easier👍👍

I will be replacing this sensor on my 2012 Corvette, and this has been useful. Well done on the video. I will have to have a Tech II to adjust the sensor, to zero, because it won’t have a pin.

Thanks for putting this video up. I replaced with the 781 part (I think) on a 2011 silverado. It had 8 pins. The sensor didnt clip in but the dust cover did after the SAS. The torx are a T25 for the metal shroud that you have to take off. Best regards from Nova Scotia Canada.

Thanks for making this video!!! With your help I was able to do this job in 45 minutes.

This guide helped with my 2012 GMC Yukon Denali XL. Thank you.

Thank you for the video! I was able to do the job in less than 1.5 hours. Loved your video it was very clear. Just make sure to loosen and remove the bottom bolt first. Also I was able to remove the torx 25 screws from the top easily. Overall great video and I recommend to find somebody to help you hold the steering wheel.

This looks like the correct way to replace the steering shaft bearing. Thanks

well done, watched video and it took me a hour it was like i done it before ,thanks so much for video

Great video ..clear ..no annoying background music great instructions.ty.

Just wanted to say thanks mr awesome video! Just did my 2011 2500hd.

Aaron, excellent video but, I too would remind future repair DIYers to utilize a strap from across the roof top tied to steering wheel to stabilize the weight after unbolting the four bolts holding up the column. Thanks for a great video.

Great Video. I just replaced mine today with no issues. Thank you!!!

Very good info,my mechanic said that he couldn’t fix the stabilatrac on my Cadillac he said “not worth it”what an idiot

Just did the repair myself in about two hours time. The hardest part was undoing all the electrical connectors. My suggestion would be to have a wobble socket with an extension that is at least 8 inches long. Other suggestion is to lock the steering wheel. I also took a bunch of baling wire and secured the steering wheel to the shifting paddle, to keep it from rotating. No tape needed. A good light source is also a must. Last of all, I took the steering column completely out of the car. It was much easier that way. Then I was able to put the steering column on my kitchen table and have all the room in the world to actually remove the steering wheel sensor. Putting it back in, I suggest connecting the steering column to the steering buckle first: Otherwise you will not be able to connect it afterwards.

Thanks a million, I just finished changing mine on my 07 Denali XL and followed your every step. Thanks for the detailed video, it made everything go super smooth.

Just what I needed. Thanks!

Thanks for the video. I tried to tackle my 2017 Chevy Express cargo van, but it was nothing like this, so I tapped out and will look for someone that can do it for me.

Great vid. I did not feel comfortable in this type of repair. I saw this step by step and WHAT a blessing. You were right on with helping with this repair. Save me $$$$$. THANK YOU

Great video thank you for a complete how to video. A new fan

Thanks for sharing, I just diagnosed my truck with a bad SAS. It only acts up in hot weather, Tech2 was not very helpful in troubleshooting. it would only monitor the position sensor and the phase c output of the sensor. I had to use an oscilloscope to figure it out. I guess I will just add this to the list of things to do when I service my truck next time.

Fantastic video! I'm glad to know what this sensor is and where it is located. I'm a bit to stove up and old to crawl around under the dash so the dealership will get $585 to fix my '13 Silverado.

Awesome video! I've used many KZfaq how to videos for my mechanic problems. This is video ranks at the top for quality. My sensor never "snapped in" during install, but it's staying in place. Test drove it and everything was fine. Thanks man

Thank you this worked perfectly for my 2012 gmc Yukon xl saved me a lot of money

Good info-leaves the column in!!

You are a gentleman and a scholar. Thank you sir

You did a great job putting that sensor in. Great video and camera work. Thank you

Good instructions appreciate the help this was exactly what was wrong with mine no more stability track light showing on the dash as well. Not too difficult more time consuming, would help to have a extra hand for sure to lift the steering wheel while you’re putting the back up the bolts back in with the two washers

Thank you excellent job. This made it a pretty simple fix. The biggest problem I had was putting the new sensor on was tight and a bit of a pain. One suggestion I have to those going to do this is break the torque on the steering column before you take the 4 nuts off. It will want to move around on you if you don’t. My wife came out while I was working. Her concern was is the tape going to leave a residue. No worries that I had the steering column flopping around it was tape residue.

Very well done man! I banged this out in less than an hour with your help 👍👍👍

Thank you for the video,very helpful, save some money, very easy!!!!

Thanks for the video man! Just did it this morning following along, glad to have no more warnings on startup.

Great info! Worked perfectly for my 2012 Sierra. Can't believe i've been dealing with this for over 2 years and it was a pretty simple fix!

Really good video, but disconnect negative battery cable first, no need to disconnect posative, thanks!

Great Video Aaron! Thanks for helping eliminating a most annoying fault.

You really saved me bro! Thank you so much for your help and expertise took me longer than the video thats forsure but I really appreciate the help!

Just competed the task thanks for the detailed video

Just did it on my 2010 Silverado. Cleared the code and all is well. Thanks for the video!

Good video, my 2013 Denali has the telescopic steering column which concerned me. However, the power assembly moved along with the column once the four 15mm nuts were removed and I reached thru the gap between column and instrument cluster to remove the three T25 bolts off that lower metal bracket. All other steps followed to the letter. I eased the steering column and taped wheel down to the edge of driver's seat. To reset, I disconnected positive cable, reconnected and used code scanner to clear codes. It still took starting and turning the wheel slightly to make the dash warning light go out. All has been fine since (1.5 hours with hand tools).

That's the error on the dash of my 15 GMC Sierra, I'm may have tackle that repair myself, thanks for the step by step info

Great vid one of the few guys/gals who actually show this process

Fixed my Yukon today with this video ty