Is your safe stored in the garage? I am looking to store mine in my garage and wondering if I need anything in addition to the goldenrod? Thanks!

I've known it works simply from the hygrometer readings, but I had no idea how fast it worked before doing this test. Thanks for watching!

The Peet dryer works on the same principle, though it has thermal chimneys left over from its start as a boot drying system. I love all of Washington state- I tried to move there twice but could not line up the work I was looking for.

This is my first safe with power, so I'm a GoldenRod newbie. Very happy so far.

TWANGnBANG loving your videos about your safe! Any thoughts on future safe videos - maybe something on considering placement within your home?

The truth about safe placement is that you're going to put it where you can. A corner is better than not being in a corner, and the less visibility, the better. However, the reality for most people is that we have only one or two places where a large safe could actually live.

:)

You probably will need it for ammunition. Those powders in rounds, shells, especially the prime powder, with prolonged humidity will get damp and fail to spark. I don’t have it either , but I will just for the sake of ammunition

Discussed several times before- relative humidity is relative humidity. End of story. Doesn’t matter how you get there.

That works on the same principle.

Great to know.

ive used them for 26 years

You should have a hygrometer in your safe to monitor whatever dehumidifying solution you use. This one is $8: amzn.to/2t8TMEL

Yes, it is just not needed. Still should oil your guns occasionally nonetheless.

Absolutely. It just gives me an excuse to handle them!

Moisture won't flow in through the cracks in any significant quantities- the hygrometer doesn't lie.

The actual NVR wouldn't work because each camera has a separate CAT5 cable coming to the back. It would just be a remote drive, though there would certainly be heat associated with that, as well.

:)

Normaly hygrometers have a sensor so that the sensor stays in the safe while the readout panel sits on top of the safe depending which model you get.

Thanks!

Eva Dry video is in the works. I have never heard of one of these setting something on fire. 180 degrees is well below the ignition temp of most safe contents.

Awesome! Yeah probably just paranoid. I worry about thing shorting out.

Haha I was just thinking that. Almost looks like him too.

They seem to be slightly additive, for sure, though whether or not it is necessary to do both depends upon the ambient humidity in your safe room.

These are US made LED safe lights. www.amazon.com/AMERICAN-TACTICAL-Light-Version-Retail/dp/B07KGM5HR2

Great state.

I live in south ga practically in the swamp and it is f$@?! Terrible here

Eh, no, and I've never seen anywhere that they recommend drilling holes into a fireproof safe for it to work. In fact, that wouldn't make sense as that would allow humid air to replace the air dried out by the goldenrod. See discussion in the comments about how it doesn't matter that the air vapor didn't leave the safe- all that matters is that the relative humidity drops.

TWANGnBANG : Thanks for your help, they never said you should drill holes, so that was kind of my idea for such a pretty well sealed safe as we have. The manufacturers state this: "Expansion of the heated air forces the moist air outside through the vents or loose fitting doors leaving the dry air inside." I am not sure that either of our safes have any such vents or loose fitting doors, hence my wondering if you added ventilation. Now, my security cabinets, they leak like a sieve :). Evidently, your safes work with the Goldenrod as is, so I will go that route based on your experience and that it is working. I will also buy the Hydrometers you have. Thanks for the great idea. I am being careful because I want to put another safe in my somewhat damp basement, but I do run AC most of the warm months, and I have forced air heat which should help a lot.

Eva Dry has an absorption curve- it absorbs best when refreshed, then diminishes in capability over time until it is no longer useful. You must recharge an Eva Dry quite frequently to keep up with a GoldenRod, though it is indeed an effective solution nonetheless. That said, the GoldenRod is a set-and-forget solution. It is always working at peak capacity and never needs any maintenance. Thanks for watching!

How often do you have to remember to recharge it.

Hard to say if it will do everything you’d need, but it will definitely be better than nothing.

Maybe, but it's taking 40W instead of 18W. A lamp is designed to give off light, and heat is just a byproduct of its inefficiency. A heating element puts a lot more of the electricity it uses into actually producing heat, so it's a better solution literally by design. Thanks for watching!

Maybe. Buy a hydrometer and see if your internal humidity stays in the range you want. If it does, no changes to what you do are needed.

Relative humidity dropping does not force the "moist air" anywhere. It would drop as the air is heated even in an airtight container. While the pressure increase might indeed allow inside air to leak out, that is not resulting the all of the drop in relative humidity seen. Thanks for watching!

I am not questioning relative humidity.. or you.. I would have just thought you would have mentioned what the instruction say... I just posted what it says on the package..

@@keylitho I have mine vertically 50 % to 48 % Humidity here in Florida in case

Central NC is no different, humidity-wise. If the inside of your home is 90%, however, you have a bigger problem than keeping your guns dry.

@@TWANGnBANG I suppose this is true tough I'm wanting to move the safe to a room that doesn't have any climate control.

This plus an Eva-Dry (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iJ1jgLOqsrTPcmg.html) are your best options. Combine that with opening your safe as infrequently as possible for as little an amount of time as possible for best results.

@@TWANGnBANG I apologize, I bought a humidity Guage and my house is between 40 and 45%.

Definitely no apology needed. Glad your house has a great amount of humidity for yourself and your gear.

You can only do so much to battle that much humidity. Oil the heck out of your guns, use the longest GoldenRod that will fit in your safe, and I'd even add a large Eva Dry because its effect is additive with the GoldenRod.

TWANGnBANG Thanx...btw...love the videos and info Keep up the good work.👏

I’m in a similar situation , safe is in on a garage floor, with a 12 inch rod from liberty. I don’t think it’s enough though and will be buying a goldenrod. In Maryland, which gets hot and humid in summertime. I think I’m going to go with the 36 inch.

You win!

...also, I'm producing more reviews now than I've ever produced in the 5 years of this channel. Just take a look for yourself. ;)

I was referring to the fact that it is a good use of time for the rainy week we are having in NC. Stay Dry.

There has to be SOME source of water vapor getting into the safe. That is the only way for the air to be warmer *and* more humid than outside the safe. It has nothing to do with the Goldenrod. Possible, there are holes in the floor of the vault allowing ground water to enter the safe. That's all I can think of. A partial solution would to also add desiccant to the vault and recharge them frequently: amzn.to/2uTZ6g1

Thanks for the reply . I Understand the science behind keeping the interior of the vault at higher temperature that the exterior ( to force out humidity) , This vault weighs over 4 tons , it is air tight , with timed locking device , it is a bank vault . No humidity or vary little would be able to escape it , we do have large bags of desiccant inside . We recently had to remove the firearms because of this humidity problem . * I found this vault and thought it would make the perfect gun cabinet , it took heavy equipment to move it, my bright idea has now worked out so well .

Mike, that’s not the science. The humidity doesn’t escape. There are two measurements to consider… the dew point and the relative humidity. The dew point remains the same, but the warmer the air, the more water vapor it can hold. So, as the temperature increases, the RH decreases, even thought the dew point is the same. That’s how this works.

Exactly. It holds more moisture, thus relative humidity is lower.

The nice thing about such a situation is that you aren't opening and closing the safe door, letting the outside humidity in. A large desiccant or a Golden Rod would do very well in such a situation.

TWANGnBANG Thank you for the info, I feel alot better leaving my stuff alone.

That's why they make hygrometers. :) $8 and you'll always know the humidity level. That said, you're probably handling that one gun a lot, and if you just keep it oiled, it should be fine.

Q does not seem to be interested in KZfaq channels at the moment. Maybe that will change, but no way am I buying a Honey Badger just to review it.

TWANGnBANG have a grate day ,, I in joy your show and aprove of your review on fire arms and riffles , your spot on with your ability understand every weapon in your hands . The honey badger is one of 3 weapons I would trust by my side as a small package all in one for the 5.56 For short and midd distances , yet no one has did a indef review of that honey badger . Yet .. . Humble gradatud this momeral day to you and friends that may of past ..

No need for the fan. The Goldenrod creates a convection current as part of how it works.

A Goldenrod only works if you give it enough time to heat all of the air in the safe to be higher than the air outside the safe. The EvaDry units also need time to suck the water out of the air since it really isn’t doing much circulating in there. Your friend’s safe might simply be in a drier location or one where its easier to get a different temp inside the safe versus outside.

TWANGnBANG takes for the response. my friends safe is in a closet with a carpet flooring. Mine is in my bedroom on hardwood floors. We live almost next door.

Negligible. It should be small and close to the floor where it's coolest.

TWANGnBANG thanks

It does not. It’s at the very base of the safe, but not so low to create a flooding risk.

If you wanted, I'm sure you could apply some sort of fire-resistant putty around the GR exit point. No gun safes, at least the one we mere mortals can afford are air-tight. Always some small air gaps around the door to let the GR to do its thing. Hope this helps.

Once the electrical cord burns it's an entry point for flame.

Yes. I'm giving one away next week, in fact. :)

Keep it plugged in 24/7/365.

Heating the air makes water less likely to come out of suspension onto the surface of your guns. The water is still there, but it has a harder time affecting anything. Again, if the hygrometer humidity sensor can't see it, neither can your guns.

Thanks for the explanation. So I guess water exist in the air as two forms, gas and liquid. it works as if the air temperature is high enough, then most water stay as gas form, which doesn't rust guns in the safe. It is like if you boil water and it turns into water vapor, which is a gas. But what if you open the safe and the temperature drops? water vapor condense if the temperature drop..... Museums use goldenrod because everything stays inside the glass boxes and they rarely open them, but how about a gun safe? I might be wrong.... but it is just my thought.....

The difference is just a few degrees.

Condensation only happens when something is cooler than the dew point of the air touching it. At no time are you ADDING water to the air in a safe, so even if the air cools back down to ambient temperature, you won't get condensation unless you were getting condensation before closing the door.

Yes. In the video description.

The temp will have to drop below the air's dew point for condensation to happen. Simply warming the air, then allowing it to cool to its original temp is not going to cause any condensation. It's only a few degrees, anyway. Also, you're not adding water to the air from anywhere- if you pour water from a smaller bucket into a bigger bucket you don't somehow get more water even though the bigger bucket can hold more.

I seem to have misunderstood the corrosion process correlation to humidity etc. I have always thought that its the amount of water in the air regardless if its bound to the air or not, that makes things rust. I could be totally wrong.

It's the relative humidity that measures the propensity for water to be able to come out of the air and effect other things. That's why I keep saying over and over that is the only number that matters. Stop overthinking it.

Machinshin, true warmer air can hold more moisture basic lessons from high school science classes. Twangnbang is correct about dew points. All the golden rod is doing is preventing this moisture from settling on the fire arms and causing rust. Golden rods are used by museums ect because it's a low maintenance item plug it in and forget it. Museums don't want staff fiddling around in valuable displays to remove silica beads every so often to recharge them. To truly remove moisture from the air you need silica beads these will actually trap moisture in the beads and pull the moisture from the air not just keep it from settling on the fire arms or what ever your trying to protect. The down side to this is every so often you need to recharge the beads by heating them up in an oven to a high enough temp to dispel the water they collected than they are ready to do their job again. Rechargeable beads will change colors to to let you know when they need charging and when dry after heating them up. So a museum is not going to use this method as it would require staff to monitor beads than remove them from displays and heat them and replace back into displays. Since most of us are in and out of our safes at least a couple times a month or more its easy for us to monitor the beads and recharge them as needed. IMHO the beads are the better choice if you really want to reduce moisture vs just keeping it off of your firearms. Unless your never really in your safe which is not wise as you always want to monitor your firearms and be sure no unexpected occurrences happen I.E. your goldenrod fails not likely but stuff happens when you least expect it.

Personally I use a woods dehumifier in the same room. Works like a charm =)

What is the humidity outside the safe?

outside safe is now 60% humidity 75F and inside is 58% humidity and 77F

I’d contact Goldenrod and ask them if they have any ideas.

I called them up and they said to me that between 35% to 65% humidity is ok, i have two eva dry 333 in their and they fill up fast with humidity. I was wondering if i just changed to the largest plug in like the eva dry 500 would that work better or just get a silica type which goes in the oven to recharge? what do you think I'm better off doing?

Many departments lock their guns in metal cabinets that can be pried apart with a screwdriver. This is much more secure than that. It would ultimately be up to the security risks the department is trying to protect against.

Never heard of that happening.

TWANGnBANG thx

I own dozens of silencers of various calibers, yes.

If you have 80-90% humidity inside your home on a regular basis, you need to get that fixed first.

People in Florida put the safe in the garage... Humidity is high here..

I did a full review on the safe and explained the pricing: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/e86ZiNCfrNCyonk.html

This product has been around for decades with no reports that fire is a concern. Safer than a lightbulb.

TWANGnBANG, thanks I'll definitely be putting one in my safe, always great to improve the longevity of my firearms and munitions

Yah, 180°F (82C) won't set any normally encountered substance on fire. It will sort of dry out cloth, paper, or mud by direct contact eventually, but it's even way below the auto-ignition point of pure toluene jet/race fuel (410°F). You could literally spill gasoline or gunpowder on it and get nothing but a smell unless there was an electrical short caused by it. You could hold a match-head to it and get nothing. It's 32° below the boiling point of water itself, so it's not even hot enough to make a proper cup of tea. An experienced short-order cook could juggle with the things, if they know how to juggle. Pure white phosphorus will burst into horrible flames at room temperature, but that's been banned as a weapon by the Geneva Convention. Also, if I remember it right, there was an exotic lab chemical called di-flourine-dioxide (F-O-O-F) that would spontaneously explode if it got as warm as NEGATIVE 200°F. It also exploded at any temperature if it touched any other chemical compound, or if its super-frozen container was bumped, or if you thought bad thoughts, or just because it felt like it. There is nothing about that molecule that wants it to keep existing. The research paper on it was hilarious (and suggested that they lost a certain amount of equipment in the process), but you probably don't have anything that unstable in your home -- not even the middle child :)