Wow! Three 180 watt panels..... I'm a bit jealous, since I am making do with a single 175 watt panel. I love the step by step approach to the video - it's very helpful.

Just in support of double sided sticky tape: Many cargo trailers have the sheet metal skins installed with tape only, there are no mechanical fasteners whatsoever. The tape is so strong that if the skin is not lined up perfectly when installed, the skin has to be replaced with a new one because it cannot be removed without damage. Thanks for the excellent tutorial of how to do this, very clear and doable for any of us.

The no hole install is a game changer I really like your detailed explanation great installation thanks 😊

Very nice job, Rick! Other advantages of the branch connectors in the parallel panel setup is improved performance in partially shaded conditions and (if there's an available unused plug) the potential to add a portable panel for extra wattage. Main drawback of parallel setup, due to comparatively lower voltage, is that longer cable runs will have higher power loss -- not too big a concern for most mobile setups. And another way of bringing a cable (up to about 10/2 marine grade) into a vehicle is the junction box entry fitting designed for romex -- has a pair of threaded thin lock nuts internally and a thick captured rubber passthrough on the outside in a galvanized housing. Due to the size of the threaded nipple it would be tricky to use where the roof or wall is more than 1/4 inch thick (and it does look like Frankenstein's neckwear). But for a car, truck, or SUV it is short enough to clear the closed doors on a B pillar, eliminating the need to puncture your roof!

You know why you’re one of my favorite channels? Because you’re Teachers. Real ones. A truly exceptional teacher knows what their students need to learn. Thank you. ❤️

Thank you for your very thorough explanation on how a solar panel system works and how to easily wire and connect it. Until now, everything I've watched on other vlogs still left me clueless. I totally get it now. Again, thank you so much!

Thank you! I always thought one had to be an electrician to do this work. After watching your video, I am now confident that I can do this.

This is so helpful! Thank you! I am redoing my rv after losing my husband in Feb to cancer. I find that I already have the solar panels stored away and I have an inverter. Maybe he already stashed some lithium batteries in his stuff too. So glad holes don't need to be drilled in roof to install the panels. That's a huge relief! Thanks again! Saving your video for when I get to that project.

Amazing and perfect video. This answered every question I had about installing solar on my RV. I was scared to drill holes in the roof and didn't completely understand how to attach solar panels to a roof rack. This adhesive approach completely eliminates my worries. Thank you!

That man helping you looked like the BIG BOSS MAN. ! PROFESSIONAL WRESTLER ..W.W.E.

Just found this video and so glad I did! Helps explain more about the solar panel installation process. Also, happy to see you didn't put holes in the roof as I don't want to do that to my cargo trailer either. Thank you for sharing this with us! Now... to decide between the industrial tape and sikaflex! :). Pros and cons to each I'm sure.

Great idea, and like how you installed everything! Nice job 🤙🏻

Awesome Rick, wish I had an instructor like you in school, Cheers to you and Linda!

I use a lot of that 3m double sided tape. I bought one of those 300watt hot air pencil heat guns, use it to warm tape to 150° or so before I press parts together. Then burnish with back of a large spoon (for fabric or flat material), very permanent bond.

You're always one step ahead of me. I'm thinking I'll mount one port and one starboard of the roof centerline, with tilt on each one. Using a portable panel really impressed how angle affects power, and how much the sun moves in an hour. I've used Sika products for years. Never had a problem. (Other than mispositioning something.)

Once again you have given very clear instructions as well as practical advise for solar install. Only thing missing is ALWAYS connect solar charge contoller FIRST to battery and then connect solar panel incoming wires or risk blowing out the controller.

HAHA. Easy installation - you found some good helpers for the grunt work. My ladder days are over.

A great video, one of the easiest I’ve seen. I’m going to be fitting Solar to my motorhome soon here in England. Definitely going for a bond rather than screws. Thanks for the entertainment and advice.

Agreed, You gotta check this out. Another video created by Gonagain that is worth saving and reviewing. Excellent material! Thanks Rick and family for demonstrating.

Nice video! I'm wanting to do this on our 22' new Camper. More details on the fuse & a power cutoff would of been nice. I have a 2000W inverter but yours is probably better. Thank you for your video.

A caution on measuring the current across the panel terminal leads with the multimeter. This is one of the very few configurations that you can put your multimeter across a voltage source in amps/ current mode. If you did that across a battery voltage source for example you'd smoke your meter or burn out the protective fuse if it has one. Current is normally measured in series with the load, using the shunt built-in to the meter. Because of the way a solar panel delivers current up to a maximum, it allowed measuring across the panel leads, but across almost any other voltage source would not have ended well. Good video with good explanations and camera work. Thank you.

I still like those solar panels brackets bolted to the frame with adhesive on the trailer. Driving through West Texas and Oklahoma is a challenge with gusty winds 40 to 60 mph even in a parking lot ( February thru May). Always check the top of the roof to see if that adhesive is still holding in windy areas so you don't have the panels fly off unexpectedly. on your trip.

Yay, top job Rick, will keep that in mind when banging on another Solar panel on the van. Kia Kaha, Kiwi Dave NZ.

Thanks for a fun project! That glue stuff is strong enough to stick me to the side of the trailer at highway speeds for at least 5 yrs, I think. 😂 We'll soon replace our old panel to equal 3 of these BougeRV panels and call it good.

Thanks for another great video.

Hello again Gonagain. I've been looking at their panels I am almost ready to get some and I am 98% sure it'll be theirs. I just got done removing a lot of old adhesive off the roof of my 16 foot cargo trailer and installing another maxxair fan I hate working on something that someone else has worked on before and didn't do it right the first time or clean it off after they removed something but that's life. I am still looking for a roof rack that will hold my panel's but it has to attach to the side's so I think I am going to have one made. You all did a good job nice and neat not some sloppy job like I have seen others do. Take care stay safe and we hope your tomorrow is better than your today was.

As a solar professional I really like that the panels are raised ABOVE the roof. It is not much. Looks about an inch. 3 inches would be better. Solar panels NEED air flow beneath to cool them. They are NOT efficient if they get hot in the sun. Plus, IMO, shading the RV is another huge benefit. If the panels sit directly ON the roof -- then not only do they get hot, but they transmit heat into the RV, too. So, please make sure they are raised up.

I might just have to do this to my hauler. I was going to just do shore power but I really wanted both for backup purposes.

You guys work together well and make it look so easy. Keep up the videos . Have fun traveling and stay safe.

Great video. I live in Arizona and one of the main concerns using adhesives is their tendency to dry out and and fall off, especially with adhesive tapes. I'm looking to do this on my popup camper which is already pre wired for solar.

Great video! Just an hour for solar power, that's awesome!!

Excellent video production, and like your attention to detail. As an observation, putting those panels in series while not exceeding the maximum DC input to your MPPT solar controller, will result in more current developed by the buck/boost converter in your controller at charging voltage (14.4v), and you will still be able to harvest energy at low sun angles. Shading is not that big of an issue with modern panels due to blocking diodes isolating each cell array, thus preventing partial shading from taking the entire panel down in voltage. Putting panels in parallel worked great during the era of PWM controllers as you could pulse more current. Those days have been superseded by MPPT Controllers, so higher input voltage means more amps at charging voltages.

Love those britches dear sir!! *chuckling*

Love the trailer build bids Gonagain. Thanks for the content

Great install video! Thank you!

Better than VRB - thanks for all you do..

Thank you Rick

Hi, Just found your channel. Your instructions and video are crystal clear. Perfect for me, a newbie. Cheers!

Wow you make it so simple to understand thank you for sharing

Use Duct Tape to make nice straight lines when it dries. I own a GC company, and we do that frequently for flashing an other sealling type scenarios.

As usual I liked this video very much.

You make it look so easy.👍

They are putting a lot for being mono, Amorphous silicon , Murphy glass , bifacial and poly is the best way to go for panels but either way it’ll work Good job.

Great video. Thanks for the info. Very practical info!

Thx for the knowledge.

That's about as easy as it gets. Guess I have another project to do!

Really helpful. Thanks!

Great information thank you.

Earned a subscribe with this one. About to start my own build.

Wow! I wish I would have seen this a month ago.

Great video overall! I like that you checked the panels' open circuit voltage and short circuit current because those values do indicate whether a panel is healthy. But, I don't think your power calculation is quite correct since those measurements were taken at different operating conditions (open and short). To calculate power (P=IV) the current (I) and voltage (V) must be measured under the same conditions (V and I must be known simultaneously). Since you took measurements in two different conditions there are actually two different power calculations (although they both result in zero power(!). The open circuit power is zero because the current is zero (P = I*V = 0 amps * 23 volts = 0 watts). The short circuit power is zero because the voltage is zero (P = I*V = 9.54 amps * 0 volts = 0 watts - again!). You'll note that the tag on the panel also tells you what the proper voltage is associated with the maximum power (19.54V in the case of your panel). If you had a big variable resistor that could tolerate (dissipate) 180 watts you could adjust it so the voltage across it was 19.54V and then insert the meter in series and measure the current. Under ideal conditions you'd find the current should be (rearranging P=IV) I = P/V = 180 watts / 19.54 volts = 9.21 amps. In the real world it'd be something less for most panels, since their rated output is only achieved under lab conditions. (The resistor value could be calculated starting with V=IR -> R=V/I -> R= 19.54 volts / 9.21 amps = ~2 ohms) This is why MPPT solar controllers are such a big deal - they can automatically adjust the load so that power is maximized, i.e. the product of I and V at any moment gives the biggest value of P. Another thing is that the solar controllers typically have a display option to show what the voltage and current values are at any given time - if you want to check real output power just hook the controller to each panel one at a time (probably need to have the battery connected - check the manual first). Although, as I said, your checks are probably adequate to make sure the panel is working - you just can't actually get a useful power reading from those measurements.

Thank you very much.....t

Great vid gramps

This is pretty cool. I installed mine with 3M VHB tape and Loctite Platinum 😂 would have an easier time getting them off if I did it this way instead

I have alway like watching your videos. but this was one of the best

Good installation video. You did mention you have a solar charge controller, but didn't mention the readout panel. The EPEVER Meter MT-6 connects to the solar controller, and allows you to read important charge info from a convenient location, but it isn't required. I think all that info can be read in the controller readout.

You did them the same way I did, except I put bolts through the panel/plastic mounts, instead of just sikaflex.

Easy diy brackets- 2" aluminum angle cut at about 2" lengths. Place 1 upside down and back to back so they make kind of a Z, like regular panel mounts. Drill 1-2 1/4" or 5/16" holes to secure them together then mounting holes. Now your panels can be mounted and removed easily for replacement or service. This idea for gluing down is very risky. It's only as good as the adhesive, the roof skin to trailer connection which isn't generally that good. I've seen panels laying in a traffic lane on the interstate, seen roofs peeled off etc. I personally would never do it...and I highly suggest you avoid it too. Cover your panels for making connections.

Great video but, how do your lights and plugs and fridge tie into all of that? Maybe you could do a video on that to show us. Thanks for the entertainment and information!

Aloha guys, informative video as always, also we enjoy seeing the daughters. Aloha hau'loi be kool 😎

The volts with no load are higher and the currant at a short circuit is higher but the voltage is zero look on the panel for the loaded voltage and currant and times them and it will give the real power.

I have used the Sikaflex products I think you could attach your mother n law to the roof

Thanks for such a detailed explanation! Is it ok to use different solar panels together?

Hope it holds up to temperature and flexing. My cargo trailer flexes quite a bit on uneven terrain.

Lol @ 18:06

If you have to remove a panel and replace it, I’m assuming you are going to have to screw or rivet it back in since you are not going to be able to glue it like you did the first time since the mounts are stationary and the glue would be push down to the bottom of the mount.

The renogy MMPT charge controller can handle 100 volts input so all the panels can be in series giving 1/3 the power loss in the long wires coming down with no extra conectors on the roof. the higher voltage will give earlier and later charging and more in cloudy weather I get charging from 6 am till 6 pm with 2 x 40 volt panels in series for 80 volts at 5 amps turned into 25 amps at the charge controller with short thick wires to the battery. the x grid tie panels were only $ 20 each 200 watts

The chance of finding a panel that matches the exact dimensions 5 years from now is pretty slim. Even from the same manufacturer

Thank you so much for your vidéo, I learned à lot. Which sikaflex you use, i saw a large variety of sikaflex, thanks again

Great video as always! Do you feel that Sikaflex is far superior than eternabond? That looks like a nice solor setup. Take care and thank you

The adhesive method looks like a good idea on your cargo trailer but I would be concerned gluing a panel to an RV with a membrane roof.

Absolutely professional & Install very Informative , I purchased 5 185 watt solar panels, & they were used dated 2018 & have ordered from numerous sites the necessary materials , wiring ect. My Question Rick how many solar panels would I need to power my , class A Motorhome ,I operate only one roof top ac was doing reaserch on line & from watching numerous videos I would need approximately 1500 watts , Is this correct ?

Love your channel and I mean this with humor / kindly. It struck me you shouldn't be 'sparking' the solar panel amp test right on top of your propane tanks :) I love panels and put 4 x 300w panels flat on top of my 7 x 14 cargo trailer - just barely fit with maxx fan in middle. These generate about 6kwh/day in summer. I do have a bit of sway at 60mph and was wondering if these 4 panels @ 40lbs each = 160lbs might be contributing to that. Will try sway bar / weight distribution hitch and see if the sway clears up.

I really enjoy Gonagain adventures but mostly when Rick and Linda are observing the area they are in. Talking about solar panels or a heater in the cargo trailer or anything else about the trailer is less than entertaining to me. But I'm sure others are more interested in what makes a camper more exciting to consider. Gonagain is my most interested online video so that really says something, doesn't it ?

great looking panels. perform well too! my only conscern with my application is that my aluminum roof is loose. im afraid they may flap a little at speed. maybe bc of the brand of my trailer or 20"+ centered rafters... ive got unistruts up there. thought about taking them off but i should probably keep them

How much space between the actual panel and outside of the frame? Enough for self taping screws before damaging the panels? Good vid by the way. Very helpful!

Nice setup. However i'm scared of adhesive only mounted panels as i've heard of panels coming loose on the highway and killing the person in the vehicle behind. I hope yours don't come loose at all, time will tell. Greetings from sunny Jamaica.

Hi Rick. Yesterday I sent a reply regarding my concerns about charging my Solar Generators from the AC outlet in my FJ. (thank you for asking about which system I'm using, and Thank You for the Advice you have given) So far I'm using a Jackery 1000 and a Bluetti EB70. They can be charged from an AC house outlet and the folding Solar Panels as usual. My main worry is the AC outlet in my car. Somehow I believe Toyota has a built-in Converter, (from DC to AC) but I've yet to get a solid answer from them if a ' solar-converter' is needed when charging Lithium Batteries. I also have called to inquire the same question to both J & B, but no return answer as yet. Maybe I'm Over-Thinking this whole deal but I certainly wouldn't want to Burn Up those units. And yes, the FJ has the DC cigarette lighter outlet, but I have No intention of using it. I guess I'm showing how dumb I am with all this, but better to ask for help as opposed to destroying the Batteries. Forgive me for bugging you so much about all this. I explained more detail in yesterday's reply, but maybe that never came through? No Matter What, Thank you again Rick.

Did you use a standard caulking gun, or one of the higher pressure guns? Curious, seems a good way to mount panels to my travel trailer. Thanks

Everyone should know that 50 volts dc Is deadly

Why don't solar companies use these same quality tapes and adhesive's? Thank you for the great videos wishing you and your family health, happiness and adventure God bless and have a beautiful day

Keep the pants, you'll need them for some other messy job later. Sikaflex is serious stuff, works great. I assume you add an inverter to provide 120VAC too. BTW, my Renogy charge controller is working correctly now, no error codes. Fixed itself...

Is there a big advantage to having the second panel loose, not mounted to the roof, so that you could move it around for the best light? If the trailer was under a shade tree, maybe take the (extra) panel out 40 or 50 feet to where there is good sunlight. Also, you could then turn the panel as the sun arced through the sky.

Rick, Would love an update on this type of installation. How is it holding up? Any troubles? I just acquired panels for the top of my rig and plan to install them just like this. Thank you for the instructions.

Do you have a shut off for panels before your charge controller, and a inline fuse? And do you have a circuit breaker between your charge controller and batteries?. I've watched literally a hundred videos and they mostly look like a nightmare to figure out, a schematic for a 1,000 watt system looks like they've wired for a rocket ship lol. I went with 15amp inline fuses for each two panel series and a shut off to controller, and a 100a marine style circuit breaker and that's it. I will be adding on so i can charge via gas generator for any consecutive days with poor sunlight just as a precaution, if you have done that a video would be nice. I haven't looked into it yet, i had enough on my plate just getting a diy solar lift and my panels, charge controller and batteries figured out. I didn't want to add to my confusion. Great video, easy to follow. Thanks and God bless Rick.

I love this... but my camper is tiny and short. If I take solar panels off some day to upgrade with better technology or any reason, how do you get these adhesives off...if that is even possible?

Use 1 1/2 inch rare earth magnets...perfect

Thanks for the video. Did your daughter get glued to the roof or was she able to get down? lol. Looked like she was very careful and did a great job.

Thanks, I'm installing panels to my camper as well and I'm glad you showed a way to mount w/o drilling into the roof. How is your precess holding up?

One thing you missed was a circuit breaker.

You could have put your blue tape on the inside bottom of the mounts so if you did get some of the glue on the bottom when replacing a panel the blue tape will give away if glue stuck on it.

Love your video. Love Sikaflex products used for years in construction and yachting. What is your thoughts about a tilting panel for efficiency ? Not the building that is no problem

why run them in Parallel, rather than in Series? pushing up your current and wire requirements. is your solar charge controller voltage limited? usually solar prefers a higher voltage for the charge controller to be efficient.

That Sikaflex works great on a metal roof, how is it on a TPO roof?

Great video Rick!! Check out another YTber info on mixing lithium and lead batteries in a bank. Emily and Clark’s Adventures. Clark is an engineer who lives on a sailboat and has done considerable research on this concept. He has designed a Battery Bank Management System that properly manages both type batteries. Unlike most engineers he does a great job of explaining it.

Not to sure about using the adhesive if attaching to a rubber roof. As you would be relying on the adhesive that is holding rubber roof to the wood roofing.

Love this.... will this bond to a fiberglass rv roof

Where do you get the mounting hardware for the solar panels. My bougerv 180 watt solar panel came with no mounting hardware

Do you have to connect an earth lead between all the panels and the van’s bodywork ?

Thanks for this video. Where did you get the mounting brackets ?