Hi there, We will try the calmp-down on a couple of beds now next time. Also a criss-cross finish grinding pattern

But without wearing a safety goggles!

ROBRENZ Thanks again! Chris, do you follow.. you're the expert grinder 😀

Thanks for the suggestion Robin. Currently using the grinding wheels available for my machine. It uses an old standard 230x32x76.2mm approx 9"x1-1/4"x3" wheel. Will manufacture a new exploding cover that will make the machine accept 250mm wheels. Will look more into silicone carbide wheels. Tyrolit has actually recommended this wheel for cast iron

HRM Weapons Machinist Thanks. Living and learning all the time. Actually planned to scrape the beds, but as I was lucky enough to get them ground, it saves many hours of scraping. I have done the Super 7 last year all by means of scraping, so I understand the work(load) involved. I can later decide if I eg. want to do some decorative shallow scraping (maybe try to practise Swiss type pull scraping like my friend Edvin has gotten so good at?)

I didn't have a magnet to put straight on the magnet table, the stripes is from a very slight taper in the wheel

Gerd Hennig Thanks!

Thanks! Yes, the Myford flat beds are "forgiving" and easy to deal with.Agree re. the blueing. That was a good explanation!I tried to measure with test indicators for the small deviations there might be, but very tricky to get any consistent and reliable reading when you are down to 1-2/1000 mm, and especially in a workshop like mine. Best I reckon is to test flatness with the level, which I also did to find any twist. All results were good. I may give some of the beds a "signature" scrapejob, but leaving them as is also looks good.

Interesting, as I personally prefer a scraped surface for looks, but I guess that's personal preference. A scraped surface does however make it easier to keep an eye on the extent of wear, as it becomes very obvious on the scraping. Not that there's much to be done about it I guess, so maybe it's good not to see it ;)

Pete F I also like 'em scraped 😃 I can decide later, but scraping the tops would just be for looks. Most important is the underneath of the saddle. As I have learnt, and experienced), this surface will have wear 2-3 times that on the bed, which differs greatly within the lot. I then plan to mill away the wear and then use Rulon to matchscrape to the bed, possibly also flake

Yes the saddle normally wears worst and unevenly, generally followed by the tailstock base, just depending on how the lathes were used. Rulon would be a good plan. I think it may be possible to just scrape them if the wear isn't too bad and you can make up for the lowered apron height, but I'm not that familiar with the Myford.

Pete F You're right of course.. I can probably do without the way liner material, at least on some machines. The Myford cleverly utilizes shims between the saddle and apron, and the thickness can be adjusted peeling off layers of the shims themselves. However, I still want to add/use Rulon, to make them all alike, and for ease of scraping. I reckon I will need to shim the tailstock base (surprisingly this was not the case for the 1st Super 7 I restored.. previous series of videos.. possibly because this was more neglected than worn..). Maybe also change the quill?

It is a little "too much restoring 7 alongside oneanother, joint progress seems slow.. but alltogether quite fun.

Yes.. hair gone.. that's life..

Tommy Vik Hi Tommy, Do you live in Norway? If so, you are welcome to visit me in Drammen for a "shop and machine" talk/session. If too far away, I may point you to others that also may help. A big surface plate like is a great asset, but you could also get along with a long, somewhat broad straightedge.Or also with other means.. just gets a little trickier to measure. Anyway, very nce to learn of others that are restoring Myfords! Are you planning to scrape the beds, grind them or are they good enough as is?

Aah.. sorry, I see you are writing that one of the beds are up for a regrind :) Pls. contact me at jsv-h@frisurf.no if you need help/advice. I can also recommend to join our FB group called "Verktøymaskinklubben"

Jan Sverre Haugjord What group is that ? I own a super 7

on FB.. based out of Norway

Thanks!There was no need for any compensation. The finish grinding is very light and I could not detect any difference if we started from the inner side and went outwards as compared to taking a criss-cross pattern or alternating inner/outer ways. The blueing on the surface plate will anyway be the judge, but as said, it was within 1-2/1000 mm and after some stoning the stripes were almost invisible The nominal thickness for the beds in our case here is not of importance as the saddles will be scraped and mated to the beds anyway. The beds could very well be outside what was considered grinding allowance, but I will add Rulon to build up the saddle

Great footage Jan. Thank you for documenting this.

You're welcome! I am in a midst of a (seemingly never ending) painting process, but when the beds are done I will continue the video series.

Thank you very much, taking your time to write me this detailed answer!

You are only grinding on a small part of the wheel every pass, so it will wear down at that point, and then the next pass the wear "edge" will move a little on the wheel but as long as you make all passes (the whole width of the work piece) without wearing the whole width of the wheel it should be fine.. Atleast that's what I've heard.

Thanks! Yes, all so called "shears" or vertical faces were ground. So were top flat surfaces. This left the undersides, which I scraped. As you indicate, the vertical surfaces don't serve the same function: on the older machines Myford used the so called "narrow-guide" principle which meant that both the tailstock and the saddle were guided by the front way. On downside of this was that the shorter rear face of the front " female way" on the saddle wore faster than otherwise would have been the case. The rear of the rear way was however left "untouched" so if your machine is of this vintage you have a possible unworn reference surface there (look up the serial number stamped on the bed and check with Myford or just have a look at the rear of the rear way if this looks pristine.. grinding or milling marks). If you have a newer machine Myford changed the design to the "wide-guide" principle so that the saddle is guided by the outer surfaces of the front - and rear ways. This does mean that the rear surface of the rear way might be too worn to be used as reference (but needs to be checked anyway). Do you have any measurement devices apart from a surface plate eg. a straight-edge. If you are in the neighborhood, you are welcome to my shop. I can help you out. I suspect you are Swedish? Where? I have some friends in Sweden that might be of help also..

Linköping! My lathe is from somewhere between 1962 and 1964 according to the serial number. Thanks for the offer! You are somewhere in Östlandet by the sound of things? :)

Karl Månsson Drammen

I've changed trains there! I worked a summer in Farsund. Traveled to Oslo by Drammen. I sent you an email. Have a nice evening!

Karl Månsson thnks the same!

Arnljot Seem It was done by Chris-Robin Kalmo Funder. I believe your Schaublin 22 has aa 650x250mm table?, which is within the capacity of his grinder. Chris is member of Verktøymaskinklubben at FB

Har sendt deg venneforespørsel på Messenger med email og telefon til Chris

Jeg er ikk epå FB desverre. Kunne du sendt info til arnljotseem@outlook.com Han er i nærheten?

So you are familiar with the 22 ;-) You have a 52, don't you.....

Arnljot Seem Yes, I have a 52. Have seen the 22 a couple of times. Very nice machine!

Hello there, Not sure if i understood you correctly, but are you referring to the wear on the underside of the saddle, the side that mates to the bed top surfaces? If so, they are normally worn more than the worst part of the bed, wear centered more so directly underneath the cutting tool, ie. on the leftmost side towards the operator. Also, if I understand you correctly, you are asking if I scraped and aligned the vertical surface of the saddle? If so, yes, I did. On these early models of the Super 7, the longitudenal guidance is made between the front and rear side of the front way, which means the rear side of the front pocket in the underneath of the saddle is where you get most wear. The later versions of this type of lathe "converted" to using the rear of the rear way instead, which side is longer hence give more support and longer usage before wear sets in

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 I scraped and aligned the vertical surface of the saddle? If so, yes, I did. On these early models of the Super 7, the longitudenal guidance is made between the front and rear side of the front way, which means the rear side of the front pocket in the underneath of the saddle is where you get most wear. The later versions of this type of lathe "converted" to using the rear of the rear way instead, which side is longer hence give more support and longer usage before wear sets in. I was only talking about vertical surfaces. I own 3 ml7 and 3 super 7 & 7b , one of them (ml7) is brand new 1969 never been used and there is a almost 1 thou 0.001" clearance between the rear of the front way and it s vertical mating surface under the saddle , the longitudinal guidance cannot rely on such a tiny piece , it would twist the way , the rear of the front way acts as a stop/support when the cutter hits the material(the saddle wants to back up) , the longitudinal travel can only be set between the 2 gibs , and I think that is why on later versions you don t find it anymore because myford engineers found out that once wear had settle in this was of no use anymore, but , also more important : that it will speed up wear to the inner front sideway thus impairing the tailstock s alignment faster , measure it out even if it s worn you will see what i mean , Sorry i forgot that is why the taper on the external vertical sides of the ways have to be eliminated , micrometer , a stone&oil and patience

@@amateurdesubaru Hi there, thanks for elaborating. Very interesting! I guess that Myford may have changed to use the "wide guide" principle on the later ML7's also, not just the Super 7's, because as you point out, they probably found that the (at that time popular) narrow guide principle led to premature wear because of the compartively short surface in contact with the bed. On the early Mk1 S1 I have seen there was also the same clearance, but to the rear of the rear way. Hence this surface was pristine and could be used as reference. The rear of the front pocket of the saddle was quite worn of course, and so needed rescraping. (I also converted to the rear guide principle on some). PS! It first puzzled me, but the same narrow guide principle is also found on my Schaublin SV52 milling machine column ways, ie. from the 50'ies.

Yes, but thats a norwegian guy. And they are mostly known for fishing industry and got lucky finding oil. But we swedes are known for good quality machines and measure equipment.

@@Helikopterpop Hmmm...have you seen what we build out in the North Sea..?

In principle, yes, I cannot see why not? I reckon it is the same bed they used when they introduced this (Myford offered hardened beds also in the later years of their operation)

I also have ml7, the bed is worn out. my plan is grinding the bed. if it can be hardened, the way is not easy to wear. can you give it a hardening method

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Myford did list a hardened bed as an option for the standard short bed Super 7 lathes, but in some of their adverts for their Super 7 lathe it stated that a hardened bed was not available for the long bed Super 7. So on one of my visits to the old Myford factory in Nottingham I investigated the reason why the long beds were not available hardened, and it was simply because at that time they had in stock sixty raw long bed castings that were cast in a grade of iron that could not be hardened. I am not sure if this also applies to the very early long bed lathes.

lathejack interesting! thnks for the comment

Sorry! Misunderstood :) By underside of the bed I take it you mean the area where you have the hold downs for the saddle? You need to machine down the rest of the surface to this most worn area. Then You could either build up the hold-down pieces to match or machine the underside of the saddle that mates to the hold-downs.

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 i am leaning towards using e z tig to build it up and than machine it. Indeed it is to keep the saddle down. There is of course one right saddle to keep things down. Plus it it quite uncommon to run the lathe in reverse and take heavy cuts. But hey you do want it close to perfect for peace of mind

@@therealspixycat If I was you I would not TIG it.. Any local heat applied will most likely distort the casting and/or introduce tension that might show up later. Maybe if you are very careful, but I cannot see any great saving in doing it this way? Why not just scrape/grind/machine like I suggested?

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 now i describe it it might be just a flaw in the casting. Indeed tig welding introduces tension what you dont want, however e z tig, from what i have seen (the $7000 mistake channel) tig weld that stuff explicitly without preheating. It is not welding but brazing with a wire with quite a low melting point. I don't want to mill it even because than I have to grind away quite a lot of material to make it uniform. May be make a flat slope and than glue a ie cast iron piece as a filler. This part is in fact not extremely critical

@@therealspixycat I understand.. just don't see a great advantage in this nethod nor any need to have this material put back, unless therecare other complicating factors

Thanks.. it will take quite awhile to get the machines up to the condition I want them to

You keep up the good work, I'll start saving the euros...and who knows I just acquired a surface grinder in need of repair and I 100% blame your videos for giving me such false confidence!

Barry Manilowa Easier grinding on flat ways. V--ways self aligning, box ways not, but no problem in this case

Yes, of course. It is all about lubrication. You don't need to take flat surfaces as example.. I would say just look at a regular fossil fuel engine. Literally billions of moving pistons in continuous use today doing their (reciprocating) movement without problems based on the principle of proper lubrication

The beds on the machines I have bought show normal sign of wear, but to varying degree, and some I reckon were considered "too far come" for a "normal" restoration job to be economical

Never heard of this before.. Maybe because of distortion of the material

Arrow Racing Products I guess so but I would rather then give it a treatment with light scraping

I see..at Mitsui Seiki they diamond lap the ways to a mirror finish...but I'm not sure if this is done to improve wear resistance or just for aesthetics :-)

Arrow Racing Products Not sure myself, but for a home shop and a Myfodd, I think we are well within specs. Don't get me wrong, I am honored to be mentioned/compared with a hi-end cnc milling machine factory 😆 re. lapping, this process (I presume) will remove only minute amount of material, as you say, polish the surface. Might be good to have an absolute mirror finish on the "exposed" surface (assuming the non-exposed mating side has an oil-retention surface or another hi-tech suitable for the purpose material is used)

Yes definitely within specs, they will be really nice when finished..that big grinder is some nice piece of kit :-) Apparently Mitsui Seiki use a pressurized air oil mix for lubrication which is supposed to keep chips out and give an air gap to cut down sticktion and wear.

I'm not familiar with how DMG finish their ways, but am surprised to read they are finished the way you say. As Jan mentioned, a "mirror finish" is not necessarily a good thing when it comes to bearing surfaces, nor does it represent accuracy. A lot of people confuse polishing with lapping. A DMG machine will have hardened ways and different bearing surfaces running at different speeds when compared to a Myford lathe, hence what may be appropriate for one may not translate as being appropriate for another

Norway

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 too far 😪😪😪 1125 miles...

@@damianwojcik5502 Poland? Why did you ask.. wanted to get your lathe bed reground ?

@@jansverrehaugjord9934 Yes Poland but actually live in London. Yes reground bed. Is hardly to find someone on my location.

@@damianwojcik5502 I googled and found that there are a couple of shops in the Birmingham area. If a Myford, the bed itself isn't that heavy and could be transported in the booth of a car