Same here. I only used an applicator in the video becuase I needed to do a dry section, and have good control of where I applied it so I wouldn’t get any on the other panels. Meguiars done with a wet panel and a microfibre towel is really easy and quick.

Can I wash and reuse the microfiber towel if I use this method or do I have to throw it away?

@@iamspankyfpv1468 I wash and reuse

Very interesting video I will apply doing the same thing ❤

It was actually quite nice, all this considered. Now, it’s not as easy as some other spray on wipe off products, and it’s durability long term is still unknown.

I’m surprised you would cover up BSD water behaviour with wet coat. Sonax Polymer net shield is a better match with BSD, and BSD works on wet paint from what I understand.

Your welcome man! If it’s available, megs hybrid ceramic wax is worth a look too!

Yeah. I know these are not long term products, and they are designed to be as fast as possible to apply, but it takes a lot of product. When meguiars hybrid ceramic wax came out with the spray and spread for base and then spray and rinse, it got me thinking. So far spray and spread performs better or the same as spray and rinse, while using less product.

@@sheepstardetail yessir!

@@sheepstardetail)

Thank you!

In practice it’s not quite as much wiping, I was just being thorough. Either way those, wet with a wipe in is the best way to use it.

Wiping a panel is irrelevant providing it has no contamination. You're over thinking it

Hey buddy reckon you are oversimplifying it! That's a big assumption that there is no contamination. We are talking detailing here are we not.? All l said was my only concern which l think is valid. Anyway only my opinion. ;)

Agreed, they are easy to use. I would have a look at wet coat essence over this, I found it performs better and you can dilute it to various levels depend on the strength you want.

No worries mate!

I’m not advocating for dry use, I’m advocating against spray and rinse. Spray, wipe, and rinse performs basically as well as dry and uses less product than spray and rinse.

@@sheepstardetail you did spray it in a stream setting. Least effective way, would've done much better spraying on the proper nozzle setting

@@mcham0846 that trigger doesn’t have a stream setting just normal. It just doesn’t come out that well. In another video where I compared it to wet coat essence it used even more product and fully covered a panel, performed poorly there to.

@A. Melbs he clearly sprayed on stream, so the properties didn't spread out evenly. I've been using this product for years. When applied properly, it works well.

@A. Melbs why would I make things up?

It was on the mist setting in the video, I think it just didn’t get a proper pull of product. Personally I don’t think dry or wet makes a difference, but it does need to be spread, otherwise you’re going to compensate with more product.

⁠@@sheepstardetailnah it was on stream setting, not mist

@@juliangrigoriciuc you’re going to tell me how the bottle was setup, that I was holding?

@@sheepstardetail Yes, since you can clearly see it on video, it’s on stream. The spray nozzle has 4 options - OFF, Mist, OFF, Stream. You were using the stream setting by the looks of it. I enjoyed the video, great comparison between each application method, but I don’t appreciate people who can’t just admit that they are wrong.

@@juliangrigoriciucI will take a video of this tonight, trust me, it’s not on stream, it’s just not working correctly. Look for a short to follow.

I don’t believe it’s required, but it may take longer to rinse off the residue that remains if you don’t use a pressure washer. Definitely need a sharp stream of water though.

Technically no, you can use what ever protectant you want as long as you pay attention to its endurance. Some people don’t like rinse aids as they can leave a film or make glass streaky/blotchy. If it works for you though then more power to you. KZfaq’s detailing community and review system in general is in a weird place right now. There is a lot of new products coming out, and getting reviews and info out there is useful for consumers. On the other hand, it’s causing a massive grass is greener effect for people that would otherwise be totally content with what they have. I like trying stuff out, it’s why I started this thing. It’s also why I have shelves of bottles that I probably won’t use again unless I’m detailing a car that belongs to someone I hate.

@@sheepstardetail Well said. I completely agree.

It’s just a generic applicator sold at various detail supply sites. This style is usually sold by Lake Country.

Yep, should work well for that. I wouldn’t do it too often but they are designed to work with one another.

I would just spray it on a wet panel, spread with a wet Microfiber, and then rinse the remainder off. It has never steered me wrong and uses less product as well.

@@sheepstardetail i,ll try that next time.

I haven’t used it as a regular top up product before. I know in other videos I showed it would last anywhere from 1-2 months, depending on the time of year and how frequently you wash. Not sure if you would use less if you apply it with the spray on, wipe in, rinse off method. It’s already stretching the product as far as it can really go.

@@sheepstardetail thanks for the reply 👍

I’m not sure, I never test it out long term. I guess that’s an idea for a future video!

I’m not sure, double check Gyeon’s website and see if they list any comparability issues.

Nothing. Never had an issue with a spray on rinse off product in the floors.

The applicator was dry.

​@@sheepstardetail thank sir

Probably to help flatten the product and get full coverage

I wanted to ensure even coverage. It might not be necessary but if I was using a spray wax designed as wipe on wipe off, I would still apply it with an applicator to get even coverage and a thinner distribution.

Yep, but spray and rinse doesn’t work as well, last as well, and wastes product. Wet application with spreading is the best compromise for performance, product usage, and application coverage.

They’re a bit different! Wet coat is definitely a wet application product - and by that I mean the car should be wet. The detailer is a dry application product, so very different work flows. Ultimately what you’re doing will determine what you’ll use. If you need to clean off light dust and don’t want to wash the car, the detailer is the on to use. During the winter or colder months wet coat really comes into its own as you don’t need to worry about removal and streaking.

I've used both but Ceramic Detailer is my go to. I apply it every 6 weeks. Wet Coat is really good on glass. I'll prefer WC in between CD applications.

on this topic, I’m using Wet Coat (wet application, spray-off) followed by Ceramic Detailer after drying. Much of an overkill? 😂

First section was a dry application. The idea was to show how each application performs.

Yep! Mostly due to its thickness/concentration. You can use it dry and with success but you need to adjust your approach and technique. What I was trying to show here is that spray and rinse has the worst performance and wastes the most product. All you need to do is spray, wipe, and rinse and you’ll be doing great and still using minimal product.

@@sheepstardetail I found it so much better to apply it on a damp applicator with one spray line. It spreads easier and buffing off is a breeze.👌

Nope! WetCoat doesn’t harden, just wash it out like you would a normal microfibre and you’ll be good to go!

I don’t as of yet no. Something I plan to test out eventually, but I feel chemical resistance is going to be fairly poor with all 3 simply because these are designed as toppers/maintainers. I’m willing to be dry lasts the longest, just based on what you see here.

@@sheepstardetail That’s a good point them being primarily used as a topper. Look forward to a future video then, thanks 👍🏻

@@sheepstardetail any update for protection after 2 month?

@@Microjuf car had to go to a body shop due to accident, so no results for long term performance unfortunately.

@@sheepstardetail sorry, are you ok?

Yes, sorry had to think back for that one.

Fair enough! If you find application to be inconsistent try spreading with a wet MF before rinsing, should even it out and not add much more time (and saves product too).

Wet coat? Straight or mixed down with water?

@@sheepstardetail Yes Wet Coat. Straight. The water running through the lance dilutes it. I give the adjuster knob on my foam lance a half turn towards - so that it gets a bit more wet. That way it pulls 100 ml of product in about 15 seconds. I do it the following way. Set the foam nozzle to about 60 degrees fan angle. Start from the roof and apply half the roof and then one side of the car in three quick passes. Should not take you more than 5-6 seconds. Do it so that it also gets on half the bonnet and rear deck, you get the idea. Keep your45 degree nozzle close. I usually keep it in my pocket. As soon as you have put wet coat on one side, switch to your 45 degree nozzle and rinse off the wet coat. Go to the other side and wet down the car. Put your foam lance with wet coat back on and repeat. Note that the wet coat will foam a bit. This is a non-issue though. If your washer is adjustable, drop the pressure to 1500 psi. You are not trying to make foam. The easiest way to find where the adjustment knob of your foamer should be, is to put 100 ml of water in it and dial it down until it takes 15 seconds to pull those 100 ml. An added bonus is that while it gets on your windows, it does so completely uniformly. When you have rinsed off the wet coat on the seconds side and are done, start by drying the glass with a waffle towel, then dry the rest of the car as you normally would. Here’s another tip for applying wet coat that ensures that it is not overused and wasted. Mix 75 ml of wet coat and 75ml o in a sprayer bottle. I just use one of my old empty 16 oz bottles and it’s spray head. Use it like you do when applying the coating on a wet panel where you spread it out with a wet applicator and then rinsee off with the washer like you did in the video. This allows you to be more liberal with how much you use, and as you mentioned yourself, wet coat spreads very well. I suspect that one could even dilute it more and get up to 20 cars per litre of wet coat. I have not tried it though.

To check gloss levels or streaking?

@@sheepstardetail both. Streaking and how much elbow grease to buff it back

Honestly, it’s really not bad used dry. Better than some products that as supposed to be used dry.

I tested this as well a while back. Dry application than rinse off. It uses the water to activate. In your rinse of the dry application, it didn't bead up immediately. It was waiting for water to activate it.

It did, just not fully. The spray and rinse section on the other hand, didn’t bead at all. I’m saying to use this in a wet application, just not spray and rinse.

You mean cure? Essence is a Carpro polish/AIO. And yes, the point is to show that spray on rinse off is not a great way to apply a product, even if it was designed for that application.

@@sheepstardetail yes I meant cure. Sorry. Cure offers a nice shine but I find it difficult to apply without streaks.

@@89vette1 dilute it. 1:1 demineralized water bro

Takes more time to dry a car off to apply cure than using this method of application for wetcoat

​@sheepstardetail I agree. I know you're reviewing Wet Coat but if I had to apply and wipe down, I'd rather use Gyeon Ceramic Detailer. I get about 5-7 weeks of coverage.

@@CTTH100 that’s another good option, where I live Meguairs HCD is a better value, but I find Gyeon CD slicker. If I’m doing a quick maintenance wash with a top up, a wet coat type product is what I’ll reach for, if I’m spending any time with a polisher or applying a dry only LSP then a spray detailing/booster is what I’ll use, depending on the other products used of course.

@@sheepstardetail I agree...Gyeon is not price friendly. I like their stuff because it seems a bit more forgiving than some other products.

To stop the product from mixing between the doors and panels.