from future, we have them now

I love/HATE Ryobi cause of this.

I agree, the other companies have already done this, you can't even use the built in USB port because it only gives power when it's plugged in

They do now

On my 40V battery hack, I put blocking diodes in so you can still charge

wow that would take alot more current capability.

sorry, I'm not really in the position to make/sell/support these. I have put everything I used to make it on the video description.

@@SerendipitySue Ok. Thanks anyway, I understand. Great work..

probably, on my 40V charger hack I put diodes and you can still use it as a charger

The 18V hack doesn't charge batteries any more. You could put in blocking diodes like I did in the 40V hack ( kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ppqoipyXltXMnKs.html ). If you are charging with a solar charger, you can set the charge voltage on the controller ( kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rs58eNGc37LOZmQ.html )

It no longer has the charging function

Would be neat to put some switches in to isolate the batteries when necessary and keep the sequential charge function

Correct, you have to charge them separately. Unfortunately you can NOT hot swap them because you would be mixing fully charged batteries with almost dead ones. There could be a big current rush. The battery BMS might protect against this, but I have NOT tested it.

@@SerendipitySue - my guess is that the use of blocking diodes could allow for the hot swap without the more highly charged battery getting its power drawn toward charging the other batteries. Have you investigated this possibility?

I agree it would make a nice 2S3P holder. Not sure if board traces would cause issue. I did a 2S4P config in this project: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oqdxiql0uprNdYE.html

​@@SerendipitySue Yeah I watched that video, but do not have access to a 3d Printer. I can get some power caps on Esty, but this makes such a nice clean look.

From the battery side...If you went with the 9ah batteries. A 1C rate would be 9A * 6 batteries * 13.8V = 745Watts. Unfortunately the DC to DC converter limits you (25A version would be 345W)

I use a second Ryobi Supercharger to charge them. If I'm in a hurry, I have many separate chargers that can charge them in parallel

@@SerendipitySue I thought the switch was going to toggle it between charge and discharge modes. Could you do this by intercepting the leads with a relay or something? I know zero about this stuff, but that sounds cool.

@@TheDadBot_YT in this hack, you can no longer charge. In the 40V hack I did, you can still charge ( kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ppqoipyXltXMnKs.html )

you could add blocking diodes like I did in the 40 Volt battery hack ( kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ppqoipyXltXMnKs.html ), but you still have to deal with the undersize wires.

I agree with your statement that the Voltages on all batteries MUST be identical prior to connecting them in parallel. However, batteries connected in parallel DO NOT need to be the same capacity (Amphours). Their capacities will simply add together. Additionally, don't believe the myth that the smaller capacity battery will drain faster than the bigger battery. If they are connected in parallel, they will drain together and charge together. PERIOD. (SIDE NOTE: I do recommend that each battery START with a full charge PRIOR to connecting them in parallel. Once they are connected in parallel... from THIS POINT forward, they will automatically charge up together and discharge together due to the fact that their Voltages are identical.) What you'll find (if you look closely) is that the bigger battery will provide more of the current to the load than the smaller battery... exactly in the proportion of the two batteries' capacities. So for example, if you are using a 2Ah battery and a 4Ah battery in parallel: The 4Ah battery will provide twice as much current as the 2Ah battery. Thus overall, they split the power demand 33% to the smaller battery and 66% to the larger battery. This sharing of the power happens with all batteries in parallel, regardless of how many there are.... two, six or 600. The same thing happens during charging... the higher capacity 4Ah battery will get twice as much current as the 2Ah battery gets from the charging system. This happens AUTOMATICALLY... based on the capacities of each battery wired in parallel. It has nothing to do with the charging circuitry electronics. In fact, the charger has no way of knowing how many batteries are wired in parallel. The various batteries will self-regulate the power based on their capacities. There are too many myths and opinions surrounding batteries. The above information is NOT an opinion... it's factual information that can be verified in most any Electrical Engineering book. ****************************************** Completely off the topic, but still interesting to note: If we were discussing batteries in SERIES, I would have been insisting that batteries connected in SERIES do NOT have to be the same voltage. But they absolutely MUST be the same capacity (Amphours)! Weird huh? (And just as I recommended above for parallel batteries, it's best to charge each battery up to full PRIOR to connecting them in series.) It's sort of the 'converse' of the information I wrote about above for batteries connected in parallel. Perhaps this is why the information gets all jumbled up when its goes out on the internet? Maybe somebody misinterprets the above scenarios and just combines the information incorrectly?

batteries, not battery's

The Ryobi 6 charger only charges one battery at a time. My Hack uses the case for a powerstation (no charging)

yes *very* important that you use batteries with a similar charge... otherwise there will be a huge rush of current to the lower voltage battery. I would hope that the BMS would handle this, but I don't want to test it ;-)

@@SerendipitySue Actually, adding a diode to each battery can solve this issue.

@@sergeyk736 yes, see my video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mtd2ZZqdvM2aeWg.html there are trade-offs

It's a tough problem. The batteries could be in all different states of charge. If you tie them all together, the voltage will try to equalize. A large amount of current could go rushing from a fully charged battery to an empty one. The batteries can only be charged at 2-3A. It could be dangerous. You would need it to act like 6 separate chargers... which you could do, but you would need a hefty/expensive power supply.

I have designed several different 18/40V Ryobi battery adapters. I have put the 3D print files on Prusa and Thingiverse sharing sites... www.prusaprinters.org/prints/39638-ryobi-one-18v-battery-charge-adapter-for-solar-pow

There are USB sockets that you can directly connect to the 18V. Here is another project that does it: www.thingiverse.com/thing:4579077

@@SerendipitySue ah I was hoping to fit a usb socket to my supercharger, rather than have a separate battery attachment

@@milobrowning9107 just use the USB socket in the supercharger. The part# was listed in that other project

Do you have a variable voltage power supply to validate that the inverter will work in the full 15V to 21V range? If so, you can connect inverter directly to batteries. You would still want DC-DC for the regulated 13.8V required by some devices

Yes super tanks so much hope Ryobi wood put you on there developing department or hocup with some 9hn battery 🔋 for your input development 🤝🤗

if you want to go from "18V" tool battery (15-21V) down to 13.8V you could use: amzn.to/3NnoXkK

I have several videos showing how to solar charge 18V batteries. If all the batteries were similar voltage and capacity you could potentially charge them with a single charger. If they are different charge levels, you will have problems

not particular project, but if you look through my videos I have done several solar charging videos

gray-red-black-gold (81 Ohm measured)

@@SerendipitySue thank you so much!!

I have a Prusa I3 MK3S and I just picked up a Prusa Mini.

It just puts less stress on the batteries, since they will all share the load equally.

@@SerendipitySue Thanks for the reply. I just don't think that a small amp draw difference between 6 mixed Ah rated batteries would be enough to stress out any individual battery. The benefits of using all my various Ah batteries on the converted powerstation would be cost savings and longer total run times by using all my batteries, if needed. Anyway, I think I will try your conversion build on my dead P125 Supercharger and maybe give that unit an extra life. Great idea. Thanks.

I haven't seen this problem. I use it for my 12V cooler and 300W pure sine wave inverter.

good idea

probably... I'll have to think about it

I had hoped to keep charging circuits, but it turned out board traces were to thin for output. I saved guts, so may try to do more in future

SerendipitySue You can have 2 dedicated circuit for charging and discharging by using switch to somehow separate the two circuit. And then make a bigger housing with your 3D printer. And I also think you should add battery BMS for your safety.

SerendipitySue For BMS, I found it is hard to get a 1S6P board, but without take the cells out, this system is one serial with 6 parallels. parallel system is more likely to running imbalance than serial system. Imbalances decrease efficiency and increase risk of heat ups.

@@lingxiangzhu6152 each of the Ryobi batteries have their own BMS. The goal of this project was to make something people could do without a 3D printer :-)

@@lingxiangzhu6152 I found some BMS boards from China, but it took over a month for them to arrive

probably too much for six batteries.. I built a 2600W ryobi powerstation using 8 batteries. There is a video about it.

Sorry, I don't sell them.

Sorry, I'm not really in a position to make/sell things.

yup! www.printables.com/social/48277-simple3d/collections/122598

. You could eliminate the dc-dc converter and wire it to run 36V (2S3P) with a high amp connector. This 8 battery project (with 4Ah batteries) runs 2600W ( kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oqdxiql0uprNdYE.html ). This 36V 1000W inverter works pretty well ( amzn.to/3x7AiyY )

saved it

@@SerendipitySue ok thanks, I have the exact charger but the main board got damaged cannot seem to find a replacement board

not really in a position to make/sell them. sorry

Sorry, I'm not in a position to make/sell/support products. I put the design out for free.

@@SerendipitySue thank you

I haven't seen the dewalt power station ( amzn.to/3pJnx9F ) in person. I don't know if the Dewalt batteries have the BMS' in the battery or in the tool. It is much safer for hacking projects if it is in the battery. I wish I could find an inverter that would take the 15-21V battery range. Ones like the powerbright ( amzn.to/35KXvuo ) go 20V-30V or 10-15V :-(

I did find an 18V inverter! ( amzn.to/3ffcJva ). The RYOBI batteries can reliably output 10A... so you would need something like 20 of them in parallel to generate 3000 watts :-O Not sure what Dewalt batteries are capable of...

Hey bud. The dewalt power station as you mentioned uses 4 flexvolt batteries capable of 20 or 60 volts. The batteries range from 6 9 & 12amp hour batteries. It puts out 3600 peak watts and 1800 continious watts . The problem is that it puts out modified sine wave and personally I want to modify the tool by combining 2 units into 1 going from 4 flex volt batteries to 8 with pure sine wave.

Just to answer your question. The Dewalt power station power is in the external batteries and not built into they use the same batteries from the cordless tools ect.

@@chickmagnet225713 does anyone know if the battery protection (BMS) is in the tool or in each battery?

send email to the youtube channel contact

I don't own any Milwaukee, so don't know. Sorry

yup!

I haven't tried it with the Ryobi battery packs... but with individual 18650 cells, the weakest/smallest cell limits the combined battery capacity. Give it a try and post your results!

@@SerendipitySue in series yes, not in parellel if I make a 30p1s pack will all random compacity cells the smaller cells will contribute their mah. although in series you will be limited by the compacity of the smallest cell. same is true for solar panels if you shade just one cell in a solar panel the whole panel output will drop. in your 36v system you would wan to marry the p1 and p2 batteries so that you had the same ah in both 18v packs. flying rc drones we parrelell charge all the time. If i want to charge a 1.3ah and a 2ah 6s at 1c i would just charge both at 3.3 amps and the 1.3 would take 1.3 amps and the 2.0 would take 2 amps out of the 3.6amps

im thinking of trying this by putting a xt60 into 6 of the single chargers. so i can make a wiring harness to make a 36v or 18v battery bank. Plus i could unplug the harness and still charge the batteris like normal

I use same Ah batteries because they all draw down equally. I want to make sure they are equally sharing the load. I need to do some tests of how mixing battery sizes disperses the load.

here's one of them ;-) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oqdxiql0uprNdYE.html

well the most power you want to pull out of each battery is around 10A.. so six batteries would give you max of 60A. Figure the drained down voltage is 15V... so that would give you 900Watts to play with. Victron sells a 1200 Watt pure sine inverter ( amzn.to/320nPP3 ). I've used it to power a small 700W microwave ( kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m9N6p8R5uqmZg3k.html )

check out my latest project :-) kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oqdxiql0uprNdYE.html

not for serendipitysue :-(

What is the name and model number of this inverter

The switch said it's rated for it... but on the bigger 40V projects I use the big battery disconnect switches amzn.to/3mbEAAm

My concern for using similar sized (Ah) batteries is that at full load I want to make sure all the batteries are contributing equally.

​ @SerendipitySue - You're still not understanding the principal of parallel batteries. My point being that there is no reason they all have to expend the same amount of current, or as you phrase it "contribute equally". They all act as one big battery, regardless of whether or not they are each providing equal current. That's an arbitrary condition that you are making mandatory unnecessarily. Look at it this way... even with ten batteries of varying capacities connected in parallel, they will all reach 90% State of Charge (SOC) at the same time. And they will all reach 75% SOC at the same time. And they will all reach 50% SOC at the same time. And they will all reach 10% SOC at the exact same time. So why does it matter how much current each of those ten batteries is contributing if they all discharge at the same proportionate amount based on their capacities? Mathematically speaking, (based on their capacities in Ah) each battery actually is contributing "equally" in terms of PERCENTAGE of their capacity. It's the percentage that matters, not the absolute value of the current being provided by each battery. I could go into detail about what's known as the "C" rating of a battery and why the percentage is more important than the actual number of Amps being delivered... but that's a long boring story. *** SUMMARY: If you feel more comfortable using only identical batteries in parallel, that is perfectly fine to do. It takes any guesswork out of the equation. But just be aware that it's perfectly fine to utilize different capacity batteries when using a parallel battery configuration. They will all charge up, and discharge down perfectly in sync with each other. That's the beauty of a parallel connection. And each battery will be pushing the same "C" rated current based on its capacity, thus equally sharing the burden presented by the load. (i.e. - one battery won't get hot while the others are hardly doing any work. They each do the SAME work, relative to their “C” rating, even though each battery may have a different capacity.). What I’m trying to say is each battery in a parallel system… regardless of its capacity or the magnitude of current that it’s delivering, will be delivering the same “C” amount. Let’s use 0.5 C as an example. So 0.5 C for a 6Ah battery is 3Amps. But 0.5 C for a 2Ah battery is only 1Amp. Together they supply 4 Amps, but each battery is working to the same degree. The 3Amp demand on the 6Ah battery is the same level of 'stress' that the 1Amp demand is for the 2Ah battery. Neither battery is being “pushed” harder than the other. That's a very important point. This happens automatically when you place them in parallel. Each battery sees the same “C” load, despite the fact that they provide different amounts of current. I wish I could upload a drawing to illustrate the idea better. This automatic "C" level balancing between different capacity batteries in parallel makes much more sense when you can visualize what's happening and where the current is coming from (or going to.) Your statements at 8:00 are well intentioned but not 100% accurate: 1) Using Same capacity batteries ---> No, not important at all. 2) Connecting the batteries when they are at the same charge level (Voltage) ---> Yes, that's VERY important for parallel battery connections! 3) Your suggestion to only use fully charged batteries ---> Yes, that's VERY important! 4) Later, at 8:26, the label on your awesome unit that says "Caution: Only use same Ah size batteries" is not necessary. 5) At 8:26, the label on your unit that says "Install only fully charged batteries" ---> Yes, I agree. This will ensure that they charge and discharge together, perfectly. After looking back at my previous posts, I realize that I've missed a critical thing.... I never actually complimented you on such an awesome design!!! Geesh, I dive right into the technical aspects and miss the most important thing: Your hard work!!! Honestly, I'm very impressed with this design. You have taken your passion to a new level. Congratulations on a very nice project! My sincere apologies for only focusing on the technical aspects of paralleling batteries. I'm a complete doofus sometimes.

Yes I understand. it's for simplification. In some of my other projects we're using nSmP configurations. It gets complicated to explain. You can't go wrong using the same battery sizes. Also don't forget the BMS's We don't know the specs for the different battery models. From my tests you can pull about 10A. The BMS is often the limiting factor not the underlying cells.

I did make a solar charger for the ryobi batteries: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g7qKl9mZy5zHcmg.html

I just bought a dead one 2 weeks ago on ebay for $15 with free shipping.