Thanks!😂

If "dork discs" came in oil slick finished titanium, they would be the next required finishing part on all frame up garage builds.

Andy is our bike DAD- ya notice when a bike irritates him he starts lecturing all of us???? It's beautiful , reminds me of my dad in the garage building and repairing things.... you should have heard the night mom and dad were actually glueing Formica for our new kitchen counter at 11:30 at night- woke all of us up! Go Bike FARMER !!!

I’ve had it happen. I’ll stick with the dork disk. Was very thankful for it, as I was in the middle of my IPMBA class. That class stresses a bike to its very limits.

Holy moly bottom brackets. My frustrations feel validated now that someone more experienced than myself is also frustrated by them on occasion.

Think this is prolly my fav video of all the Bike Farmer videos I've seen... and I've see A Lot!!! pretty great to see where Woody Chairelson came from too!

There’s something soothing about watching bike builds. And getting tips from a pro are always helpful. But yes, I’m here mostly for the meltdowns.😂

This has been the most entertaining bike wrenching video I have ever seen, thank you for the laughs. My dad was right, I hate to say it but he was right. Mini vans are the best car out there. It only took me 30 some years and 2 kids to discover it. All the 20 somethings watching just take note this man is spitting the truth about life and bikes.

I’ve found the secret to the “snap” in v brakes is all in the lever. A nice rigid lever will make even a half decent v brake feel way better

Nitrile glove pro tip: don't blow into them, the moisture from your breath makes them much harder to get all the way on. The easiest way is to just straighten/flatten them out and make sure your hands are decently dry and slide your hand into them. I'm an old paramedic still running the trucks for over 30 years now, so I am VERY familiar with gloves and getting them on quickly.

My man your happiness finding that chair made my day rant over!

This one just became my favourite bike build video.

My disc brake hot take is that there is no easier brake caliper of any kind to tune than an Avid BB7. And the action is pretty nice too.

You're worth watching every second and it helps me to relieve my own stress with bike repairs....when it took me 3 hours to replace a chain, size it and have it loop through the derailleur in the correct way. I guess I wasnt meant to work on bikes but the next day I was able to put the chain on in the correct direction in less than 30 minutes....yipeeeeee...lol

Last year I found a 90's Cannondale mtb frame. I bought it for like $20. I stripped it and put a cool paint job on it. I also found brakes that had enough adjustment to work with 700c wheels and put a Box 1x groupset on it. There was plenty of clearance for 700x32c tires surprisingly. I built it for my son to use as a commuter. He absolutely loves it!! I rode it around the neighborhood for a while after building it and it is so much fun to ride. So light and responsive. I really enjoyed giving an old frame a second life. It was so satisfying.

At last a bike build show by someone who knows bikes and repairs and builds

Chair Story. The day Andy needed a chair for his shop and found Woody in the thrift store. I live in Philadelphia PA and the bike cops here have Trek bikes. The have the large sized frame black Trek bikes.

Good disc brake breaks good, so no problem there. Everyone who were riding in deep mud knows the sound of pad scratching and sanding off the rim. It's easier to change the the disc rotor rather than rim. If you bend the wheel on rock or whatever, your break starts to rub. Rim brakes are cheaper and lighter, but I'll take the penalty for convenience.

You're my favorite bike mechanic

Whenever I am working on wheels, I sit on a folding metal chair, and I set the wheel on top of a 5 gal bucket. The plastic bucket doesn't hurt the spokes and if the wheel has discs on it, they're out of harm's way.

Thanks for the defense of the spoke protector. I agree with you, the disk is there for a reason, Thanks for telling everyone about it. I prefer the chrome metal disks.

We have the same chairs at our table.

The square taper BB shenanigans is honestly what drove me to splurge a little and make the switch to hollowtech, because at the very least you can adjust the chainline with spacers. Shame tho because square taper BBs are fairly inexpensive, reliable and easy to work on

Love the van!!! Vans are extremely cool because they are purposely built to be utilitarian and utility is the coolest. Unlike SUVs which are neither utilitarian nor sporty. Wagons are also great. Well done sir!

I have done without a dork disc for all my my 50+ years of cycling with derailleurs, but that's me. I took the one off my Raleigh Lenton Sports tourer because it was metal and I could not stand the noise it made as it resonated with and amplified my freewheel. The one time my bike fell over and damaged the hanger, I caught the noise of my cage brushing the spokes, so I just stayed off my biggest cog until I could get things straightened out. By the way, that's a Windsor chair you got yourself. Very Georgian.

This is how I spent my lockdown layoff, except it was 3 weeks between parts. And thanks for explaining the lefty-tighty (I knew).

Take square bottom brackets not mounted and check through with cranks. Or take Hollowtech II cranksets, the cheap ones. Hollowtech II always fits.

Like so many I too have trouble with BB sizing. I am thinking this way: first determine the chain line and reference it against the center of the down tube or seat tube. put in the BB and add the crank. Now you can measure the how far the center of the chain rings deviate from the chain line. Now I need to find the BB that makes up for the difference on the drive side. Or I need to find a crank set that ends up close enough to the chain line. I have to admit, it's theory that I have to put into action yet. BTW: I got your joke. - Now you know where my mind was.

I've always had the same brain glitch about the BB threading, but as soon as you mentioned the bearings it finally made sense to me. The bottom of each bearing is rotating forward on the axle when you pedal, and since they're spheres, the top of each bearing is then rotation backward on the BB cup. This, I guess, is why they "tighten" the BB cup as you pedal, but I've always wondered if that's an actual thing. It would be interesting to see some data or experiment on this. Although, I do remember reading Sheldon Brown lamenting about old French style BBs getting loose over time since they don't reverse thread the drive side.

I love, LOVE that you didn’t let out the secret of the front derailleur. Like others here I am a bicycle mechanic and boy are you really nailing things on the head. Worst case Ontario, just match the BB on the bench side my side while they’re on the spindle. Tedious, yes. But you won’t have to go through on bicycle BB sizing hell. I love this channel. Caught the rubber joke, also.

Mechanical precession has nothing to do with the bearings. The Wikipedia article on the topic has an animation that I found illuminating.

Ok how on earth do v-brakes stop better than discs? I remember when v-brakes first came out and everyone who worked at our shop was impressed by their easier setup and better stopping power (than canti's) I get a kick out of your stuff BikeFarmer but you are truly a retro-grouch to the core!

I like the sincerity and passion. Thanks Brian.

The chair was the highlight of this video! :)

Only way I know to save a little time testing BBs is using a cordless screwdriver with a BB tool attached. Doesn't even save a whole lot of time but it's nice if you're doing a-lot of trial and error figuring out chainlines etc.

You make me smile.....and chuckle out loud. That's all!!!!!!......Thank you Mr. Farmer!

Tip to avoid trial and error: Look up the specs of the model. Or measure the depth of the bb and add a special number which i do not know. Because it is the manufacturer's job to know and write it on the specs.

Bike Farmer loving him some Cantilever brakes...

I was about to buy a Trek as my first bike...after enoungh researchI decided not to because i came to the conclusion that I was going to pay more for a because it said Trek on it..i am glad you could confirm.

Trek has a pretty good database of service information. If its a trek, I just look up their specs for things like BB's, headsets, and start there.

I'm now looking at Mini Vans. Spot on perspective. I'm new to your channel and now you have me hooked. I'm a home mechanic thinking of stepping into the commercial world. CAMDA here I come.

I was just wondering that about bottom brackets today (the direction of the force)!! Thanks for the knowledge

That's a fine chair. I think this is your best video to date. Nice GOT reference. 🙂

I keep records of bottom bracket and crankset combinations as well as run the crank entry depth equation . Chainline for middle ring needs to be 48.5mm .

My winter bike is a 2019ish trek FX with a giant wheelset, and Kona p2 touring fork. It was a salvage frame (More like 1/4 of a trek), and frame up rebuild including new headset, bottom bracket. I converted to 3x8,. Its a fun bike.

I love a chrome dork disc.

❤yes all my mt.bikes hop curbs .I use dork disk . sideswiping a tall stone may smack a derailleur.my stop screws have blue lock tight on them.mechanic first/wallet last

I have a white Trek and while I love it for visibility, you are right, it’s tough to keep shiny clean. I’m also a big “dork disk” fan. I love the old aluminum ones they used to put on 70s and 80s bikes, just for the look alone, never mind the functionality.

I like air preasure with the valve stem.

I have to say... the whole "dork disk" discussion is a great and sad example of what's wrong with bicycle people and some (many/most?) companies. They just don't seem to understand that the VAST majority of the world's bicycles are not being ridden by "bicycle people".

you're totally right about the dork discs, I'm still removing them

Agree about rim brakes, I prefer canti's but that's because I don't have a lot to do being retired. I want to try the Rene Herse sometimes just because they're so pretty.

Thanks!

Haha you were way more understanding with the thrift store lady than I would have been!

I totally agree with standard lever style brake systems.. disc brakes are just going to add weight and complexity.. not performance.. unless you are riding a motorcycle.. disc brakes are just overkill

"Worst case Ontario..." "Its all water under the fridge."

lol…I use “dork disk” all the time! It does help a lot

directional tread tires,...I never fail to get at least one of them wrong every time.

Honestly, I enjoy the rant humor...lol! I worked in bike shops in my younger years...

my back wheel didn't come with a dork disc,unfornutely my rear spokes paid the price like you said + 150 USD later

A great chair😊

If you put that saddle on a site I would have bought it from you! I just bought a new saddle for the ole lady’s bike the other day.

I pulled a trek mountain bike out of the dumpster this year. It turned into a nice bike.

I really don’t like the plastic dork disc. But the vintage metal ones are dope.

Great tip on the home made chain tool!

That is a nice little chair. If you don’t like the rockiness of it you can put some wood glue on the legs where the seat and legs meet that will take care of the wiggle. Keep up the great work and stay safe out there.

meanwhile, not a spoke protector in sight anywhere near that pretty waterford or that bangin' adv bike lol

Dont pay attention to the people ranting about dork discs. Let it go like water under the fridge.

Man bottom brackets have had me throwing tools more times than they should. I'm glad to know the frustration is shared😂👍

Love the chair! Now you look like you are shoeing a horse nice and comfortably.

Trial and error is the only way. For that reason, I got myself the cheapest non-cartridge square taper bb's off ebay, common sizes 103~120mm axles, use them to sort out chainline. They all use the same cups so once you fit one you only remove non-drive side cup and axle until you find the right one. For 126-135mm dropouts you usually start off with 113mm axles for doubles and 115mm axles for triples. Once you go into boost and whatever else comes after that for wider dropouts, God have mercy.

I found your bottom-bracket problems amusing. I am currently rebuilding an old Trek 6000 mountain bike, and I discovered that the bottom bracket standard for Trek bikes is not specified on their website, which is where I would typically look it up. I wouldn't say I like the old square taper because it would creak when I didn't know what I was doing. Therefore, I hope that all these old Treks fit BB52. I have already ordered one, and I will soon find out if I am correct. I might have to play the BB game myself.

Ha ha, unfailingly I got a bicycle ad served up watching this -- from Trek!

Glad to see a pro being a bit in the dark about the bottom bracket. Seems like you will not know what is in the box before you open it. And this video marks the start of my affair with the Shimano Deore LX ST-M570. Old, heavy and well used, but the brake lever has features and loads of machining.

If the bike gets knocked over and the derailleur hanger gets bent, the plastic spoke guard will not save you. When you shift into low gear with a bent hanger, the lower pulley wheel will engage the spokes below the spoke guard and, as you say, eat the derailleur and the wheel. The spoke guard only saves you from an overshift when the limit screws are not correctly adjusted.

I would use an external BB setup. Far less of a headache to deal with. And rim brakes are great as long as it's not raining. That's a situation where disc brakes work better.

Standard BSA BB is 68mm. This one is 73mm because aluminum, so you are +5mm. Cranks called for a 123mm, but you settled on a 118mm. So thats -5mm, Net 0mm. I know the 68 and 73mm are BB Shell measurements, and the 118 and 123mm are spindle lengths. They should be independent, but maybe there is a nice coincidence of correlation we can test out by keeping track over a few BB swaps and see if thats consistent!

Seasons greetings, perhaps you could have other bike mechanics email you some of their crazy wrenching stories n you could read them in a video. Perhaps a new aspect or genre for your channel. All the best!

That is a nice chair.

Velobase will sometimes offer hints as to what the original BB spec is, but let's face it: a late-model Tourney crank isn't likely to be listed. However, the Shimano site will give you a recommended BB spindle for a given chainline; in the case of the FC-Ty501 jawn you're putting on here, they are suggesting a 123mm for a 50mm chainline, and i'm willing to bet that your rear-end is set up for more like a 45mm for this triple-crank hybrid. (50-45=5mm, and 123-5=118mm) But, in practice, what i likely would've done is just mocked up the new crank on the existing BB spindle, just to get a visual sense of what it looks like on a known quantity, accounting for the fact that the crank will move a few mm in once you actually tighten it up on the spindle.... As for dork discs, I build my own wheels typically and I never install a dork disc. But, i do leave them on or add them to other ppl's bikes, assuming it's for a "normal" person (kids, moms, regular dudes.....basically, "non-cyclists")....

That’s a good looking chair lol

I like when you're super cranky. lol And yeah you know that Thrift Shop lady was cussing you out under her breath when you walked in 2 mins before closing.

Most of my decisions revolve around practicality instead of form. I totally understand the risks I take with removing my spoke protector. But I'm indulging, because at the end of the day, I'm the sucker that's stuck replacing those spokes. Love the rant!

Al my bikes are frankenbikes because I recycle parts, my house is like a cemetery of bikes, where relatives and friends dump their unloved rides I try to put them back on the road but most people's favorite bicycle brand is NEW so is hard to find a home unless is something fancy

Sheldon brown has bottom bracket table or Sutherland’s ?

There are a lot of treks out there made by giant lol.

only way I've gotten my BB right the first time is carefully reading the shimano spec sheets on the various size cartridges and cranks to figure out what fits what. and of course, any non-Shimano components, it becomes a wild guess.

I love spoke protectors, mine came missing one. If I ever take off the rear cassettes I'll put one back on.

When the espresso kicks in! Man i love your videos, great tips too

I have owned trek and marlin bikes , ik but it cannot beat my 63 Schwinn varsity in being a tank and with friction downtube shifters easy to fix.

I only remove dork discs when they are cracked or are very yellow from age.

I can't find a "dork disc" to stay on my bike. The first big drop they always pop off. 🤷‍♂

I'm also a dork disc fan because of the reasons you mention! Also they are much more aero.

I prefer a carbon fiber dork disc. Can’t wait to see which direction the rant goes.

Would you look at it.. Just look at it.. LOL!! New sub here, Love the Channel.

Never keep the dork disk on, always take it off. I have never had spokes damaged.

I would have thought framespec for BB size... That's what did my bike has not complained at all.. does not shift well .... Hey. Derailleur adjustment class for perks?

Trial and error on the bottom brackets, and yes Mini vans!

Very nice chair, but when the thrift store reopens, you need to go back and get an outlet cover for down on the wall behind your bike stand😂

May the force be with you, BikeFarmer...... Merry Christmas....