Thank you!

Thank you! I’m glad you found it helpful.

Thanks! I agree, everyone has different expectations and needs for machinery. What works for one person may not for another.

Thanks!

Let me know if there are any questions you have, I’ll try to help

Thanks for the feedback! I’ll look at the Felder guard and see if it can fit the Hammer machine.

Interesting, thanks for confirming that. Maybe in a lab that’s true, but I feel like it does the opposite. I wax it and have tried Slipit as well, it still seems like there is a lot of drag on the material.

@@theoccasionalwoodworker yep that’s the complaint. Carbon method is developing a product for this issue. Bents woodworking is beta testing it and it seems that applying multiple layers of it helps

@@AlexK07010good to know, and thanks!

I was able to get them to send me a PDF that is basically the dimensioned engineering drawings. It should have everything you need. Email me at lockout_knurled0f@icloud.com and I’ll send it to you.

Robert - I’ll do my best to help, and feel free to ask more questions or follow up if I miss something. In general, with the table saw, try to fit the larger model if it works for you. You will be surprised at how much the larger capacity helps…for example, the ability to straight line rip a 7’ foot board is very nice, even if you never need the larger crosscut capacity. I’m not familiar with the Kreg featherboards, but they appear to be similar to a set I bought on Amazon that fit into the T slot on the sliding table. They definitely come in handy. You wouldn’t need your crosscut or angle sled anymore since that capability is inherent in the machine. As far as box joints, you may be able to modify your jig to work with the T slot on the sliding table, but of course that would depend. I would recommend you look at what dado tooling is out there for the Hammer…it’s certainly not as wide an assortment as for a Unisaw type saw. Personally, I rarely use dado tooling, so it’s not an issue, but if you use dado tooling a lot, you may want to consider that. I should also point out that the Hammer is a right-tilt saw, in case yours is a left tilt. I worked professionally in a shop that had both left and right tilt saws, which was hugely helpful. Just something to consider. As far as working small pieces, use a zero clearance insert and a 10” blade, and there shouldn’t be much difference. I will say I am careful about small pieces with the machine when there is a 12” blade and a non-zero clearance insert. With regard to the router table versus shaper with router collet, off the top of my head, I can’t think of any reason why you can’t do everything with this that you would with your insert…and probably better and easier. I’m sure someone on the internet can tell me why I’m wrong. True, you may not be able to get the high RPM’s, but you can slow down your feed rate to compensate. I think you’ll find that the incredible stability of a shaper running a tiny (relatively) piece of tooling with a highly overpowered motor on a very stable platform and a solid fence will more than compensate for any advantage a higher RPM would provide. Possibly it may not be as flexible in terms of screwing or clamping additional fences or such, but the provided fence and guides are pretty useful. Also, having the sliding table with the shaper head opens up other possibilities that most router tables can’t replicate. I know I use it when I am doing cope and stick operations. One other minor point, there is no 1/4” collet for the shaper, in case you use any 1/4” shank bits. Hope this helps!

Thanks for sharing that information! I’ll take a look at their blades.

The blade sharpening service we use bores the holes no problem,it seemed like a regular request when I asked about it.

Yes, you can absolutely use the sliding table for the shaper as well. I have done it when coping the ends of rails. The only issue I had was that I had to adjust the shaper fence to be square to the sliding table, but that was a one time adjustment. Have a sliding table for the shaper is very handy for certain operations.

It’s a Felder part, made for the Felder table saws. I don’t have the part number handy, but I can get it. I believe it’s the 1200mm fence. I have another video that’s shows the modifications I had to make to accept that longer fence. It was a bit of a pain, but I’m much happier with the longer and taller fence.

By moving the riving knife back? I’m curious. With a 310mm blade there isn’t much room to drop down the riving knife.

I have done that on my c3@@theoccasionalwoodworker

The machine was about $14k, but that was two and half years ago, and with several accessories and the charge to split the machine into two parts for installation.

Yes, I agree that Martin makes excellent equipment, I’ve used it before professionally. And in my next life as a real woodworker or a rich dilettante who can afford to buy expensive woodworking machinery for a hobby, I assure you, I’ll have a giant radiant heated shop full of Martin machinery.