Ilene LeClaire thank you

CYaunk Thank you for the feedback. Hope your project turns out great.

I just started another section of the house yesterday. Seems like a never ending project!

I assumed it needed primer thanks for that confirmation 👍

checkmate , Five years later the customer is calling for estimates to have the whole thing done again.... Moral of her story?? She is still searching for the cheapest guy who can get “it” done 👸🏻🤷🏻‍♀️🙆🏻‍♀️

You will love the EZShear, I purchased the 13" model and used it on the 1500 sq ft of laminate so far. I just had 2 quotes for all new siding and trims on the house, they came in at $26 000 and $37 000, so no way in heck I was going to pay that, so now I am about to tackle the entire house. Thanks for the video!

James Scott Siding projects have a great payback. Material costs aren’t bad but labor quotes are awful.

Definitely the way to go. No noise, no dust, reliable cuts.

depends on the sq.footage. The more square footage,.... ( you get the idea). Estimates are never the same from all bidders. Some value speed over quality, other stress strict adherence to the warranty instructions to give you your money’s worth. You choose which one you prefer 🙃. Basic, Better, Best pricing and never skimp on quality for speed. Workers are overrated. Some homeowners are straining at gnats and swallowing camels. They want the cheapest lowest bid and then use a magnifying glass philosophy to hold you to standards that not even all the greek god’s put together could accomplish. 🤯🕵🏻‍♀️🕵🏼‍♂️🥴 Building inspection fees, rubbish removal and disposal fees, prep work to cut out all the deteriorated plywood, OSB, you name it, it has to be right underneath costs. Factor all those items together or separately and you’ll begin to see why a business must account for all these issues or do it at cost just to please the customer 🖕🏼. Don’t like the exorbitant costs?? Be your own contractor, assume all the risks above a 5 foot ladder, watch a bunch of videos and get better than Best results and a sense of satisfaction for years. Manufacturers warranty applies when installed according to instructions and local building codes specific to your area and you’ll do just as good as any handyman or seasoned pro with 20 years exp. ( Most pros NEVER ever read first all the instructions, why should they, it’s not their home. ) Most failings happen past their limited one year installation warranty. Ask your handiman for referrals using the exact same materials on someone else’s home FIRST !!! Lastly, view and read carefully every comment first, then watch the videos. You’ll learn more from the comments sections and be wiser for it. So much to write, so 😔😖😴 good nite and Happy Father’s Day.

Hardy says in there installation instructions it shouldn't be caulk in the ends were it meets the trim, the reason for this is expansion and contraction. I did a house and caulked all the edges and the customer called back the next year and said all the caulk had pushed out and I had to fix it. I lost money on that job. Also learned a valuable lesson!

@@derekleesmith76 I resided the back of the house over 10 years ago, and no caulk push, I resided the front last year and no push or difference in caulk. I even blended the ends of the Hardy so its harder to see the seams. Im sure it depends on the quality of the caulk that will shrink and expand. Hardy does not expand. Im also sure Hardy didnt do any testing all over the country for its install recommendations. The two new homes built on the other street, the contractor did not caulk the top or bottom of the joints and the seams have gaps and looks bad.

Kpick303 9

Agree on the dust mask. I always wear one when cutting hardie. Also, mowing the lawn!

I have a lap siding directly attached without plywood or osb backing(1980's style construction). Since i'm slow and working mostly alone, on the large areas of the house, what i do is work in about 4 ft vertical sections. Pull off old siding, put osb up, cover with a vapor barrier , lastly put up the Hardie board. Between the old siding and hardie i usually stick some tar paper under the old siding to act as a flashing until i get around to pulling(sometimes a month or so) off the next section of old siding. I use the 3ft vapor barrier sold at Lowes rather than the 8ft product and then tape them together as i work up the wall. Still working my way around my house and have the front to finish up. Unfortunately, now i have to deal with several windows also. Thanks for comments.

I've seen hardie and similar materials that come in a variety of sizes and widths so almost anything that can be done with wood products could probably be duplicated. I could have done a better job under the window. when I do front of house i'll have to make it look a bit better.

I've done the blade reversal, using a plywood blade , to cut metal siding & roofing sheets but it did not occur to me to try it on Hardie material. Thanks for the tip.

Sorry Ben but i'm only about 2/3 thru with my house so I still have plenty of new hardie board action to video! lol. Thanks for comments.

My pleasure

You’re about right. I’ve noticed major price increases as I’ve slowly worked my way around the house. Fortunately only have about 400 sq ft to go to finish my project!

I've got a guy using a finish nailer on 10 three story buildings right now. He's using ring shanks to hang the siding on top but then he's nailing with 2 1/2" trim nails everywhere else. I'm thinking they're gonna make their way loose and then water will penetrate. Ggrrrr

I have used the Gecko's on 12 ft boards many times and they have supported them fine. However, i have been using 8.25 inch Hardie planks. Since there has been no issue on these planks, i'd be comfortable using them on the larger planks. If you had any problems with 2 clamps, a third one could be added but i don't think you'll have an issue. Let me know outcome.

Yes they will.

Geckos are worth having I love them I work on buildings over 3 stories and having that extra hand is priceless and yes on 12' cement boards the only thing I would change is use an angle grinder with a dimiond blade and chop saw with same blade

Good tips, thanks.

Geckos do not adjust enough for the 12" hardiplank to get the proper (10") reveal.

Thanks Much...I'm so slow there is still plenty of work to do. Will be starting on the front of the house in April. If you ever want to take a ''working' vacation let me know lol....

CheekyMonkey888 with a ton of dust that clogs your eyes and lungs. You can rent the shears at Home Depot tool rental almost cheaper than you can buy a metal blade tho

Any time the hardie is being cut with a blade we should all be wearing both eye and breathing protection. It's nasty stuff to be breathing.

I've never used the pre-painted material so can't help with that question. Regarding the Masonite question, I'm not sure there is a simple answer but i do have a couple of thoughts. Old structures often have no plywood/osb between the masonite and the studs, like my house. I have replaced the masonite in this scenario but painted it front and back on the lower pieces and where it overlaps. It seems to hold up fine and is relatively simple to do. However, after several years the 'older' masonite above it begins to deteriorate and it is also not as strong without the plywood backing. So it is actually a short term(several year) fix. I personally would not put the hardie board directly on the studs without the plywood backing. Another option might be to put backing material on the structure, use hardie and then put a flashing between the masonite portion and where the hardie/plywood buts up to it. Then continue hardie up the wall when msonite starts going bad. Guess the direct answer is that i dislike Masonite so much i'd do either the hardie/plywood for the bottom 3 rows or if time and $ permit do it all in hardie.

It hides the nail head.

Rain screen? What does that mean?

@@johncasoni4379 A rainscreen is an exterior wall detail where the siding (wall cladding) stands off from the moisture-resistant surface of an air barrier applied to the sheathing to create a capillary break and to allow drainage and evaporation.

The gun i use is a Bostich N66C indurtrial siding nailer which i also use for plywood sheets, etc. I have heard that people use the roofing nailer but i have not tried it. To my knowledge there is no gun specifically made for the cement board.

good point

Nah, 2" are good. 7/16 OSB siding, then a layer of 3/8-5/8" lap siding means about 1" stud penetration.

The specification calls for a minimum 3/4" penitration into the stud using galvanized or stainless steel ringshank nails. The 2" is standard. I'd take care to mark where the electrical runs, pipes etc where located to avoid nailing at those points if there's possible contact.

Agree..just got lazy on the back of the house.

haha sometimes when u do something for your self u just get to a point where ur like , i don't give a shit about that it won't effect anything but the look .

Yeah not difficult to notch it out 😬

john hodg - I didn’t notice that and went back to verify at 1:35 of video. You have a good eye.

I'm getting ready to do more siding installation and like the shear idea. Been looking at them and would like to know if you have a recommendation for one you like.

@@Oldguydoingthings PacTool SS204 Snapper Shear is what I use and it works well. Looks like what you have at 6:30

Its crazy that 3/4 z bar cant be found anywhere in box stores and probably the most needed for trim.

I use the osb particle board against the studs and put the Tyvek on top of it

Any blade that dry cuts ceramic tile or brick will do the job.

Louis, the Bostich model number is N66C and they call it an Industrial Siding Nailer. I’m very happy with it and have had no problems so far.

thank you!! Have you done any framing with that nailer? Do you know if it can handle framing, for example, building a shed. thanks again for your reply.

Louis J T unfortunately,this gun would not take the place of a framing nailer.

josh chute I used a coil nailer but probably anything would work. Air pressure setting is very important to avoid driving nails to deep into plank

Josh, i did not use a roofing nailer. My coil nailer is multi purpose. I think even a hammer and nails would work fine, just take longer. What is important is the type of nail. The box my nails came in is gone but i measured the nails Measurements are 5mm on head, 3mm diameter at ring shank, 2in long. I've also used 1.5 in long but when going thru both siding and osb into a 2x4 I usually use the 2in. I also feel safer using galvanized nails to avoid rusting. I'm sure other types of nails would work but i've had good results with these. Hope this helps some.

Sounds like quite a bit of work but a nice installation.

Definitely not longer than 12 feet

JA Joyride I just used an exterior white primer from Lowe’s. Don’t think it matters much what brand is used as long as it’s exterior.

Oldguydoingthings / As a painter of 45 years, I can tell you that quality matters. Currently the best bonding primer on the market is called STIX, or another one is XIM. The primer is the most important part of a quality paint job ; especially on exteriors.....

My installs are over osb covered with Tyvek . Your install on T111 would be almost the same I would be comfortable doing it.

I've done that, and it works great. Looks great too. 4 plex with 3-1/2' trim up the sides of the windows (top to bottom). Hardie plank siding between the trim, above and below the windows.

If you're thinking about the vertical boards on each side of planks, they are hardie 1x4 boards. i agree to avoid wood where ever possible. if you're thinking about something else, pls let me know.

@@Oldguydoingthings I personally prefer Boral boards than Hardie. Azek can eat it for the pricing and the massive expansion and contraction you have to deal with.

@@totallynottrademarked5279 Learn something every day...tried to find someone that sold it and closest place to where i live is 69 miles away. However it really looks like an interesting product.

@@Oldguydoingthings It has less than 1/16th of expansion when painted black and in full sun all day. White PVC expands and contracts up to a 1/8th. Stuff cuts like butter on a table saw two which makes it great for doing bay windows with all of those long miters.