Wow! Before the foam cutters, love the evolution of the tech

Harmonys are great, they're my favorite cheap vintage guitars

It’s interesting going back and watching these videos a year or two later. Here he’s just learning about the nichrome wire for neck resets where today he’s using his second set of styrofoam cutters.

Man I would just like to say, of the many, many luthiers on KZfaq your videos and techniques for repair are by far the most professional and the advice you give is invaluable thanks for all the information!

Perfect timing. I just pulled the neck off an old all mahogany parlor with a poplar neck and had to build the dovetail back up.

1961 all mahogany, single piece top? The guitar I never knew I wanted. Awesome.

steam is a "dry heat", man you have to love some comment section experts

This was a particularly interesting and refreshing video based on an economy guitar that is worth repairing. In contrast, I watched someone on KZfaq this week destroy a guitar and say, “Oh well, it was a cheap guitar anyway”, with multiple supportive comments from his subscribers. It is so nice to see you respecting and repairing an instrument instead of destroying one and laughing it off.

For anyone reading this, I just pulled my first neck off of an early 1960s Harmony 162, very similar to this one in the video. The dovetail pocket was such that I needed to angle the drill bit backwards, i.e. pointing from the fret slot towards the heel of the neck, not forwards towards the neck-block. My first two drill holes were down into the neckblock. I recommend angling towards the heel of the neck to find the pocket. Only took me like 2 hours of heating with my lone foam-cutter heat stick that twoodfrd uses in later videos. I think dry heat is nice, but I did end up using a syringe of water to help to hydrate the hide glue some and finally it came free! Anyway, I'm going to reset the angle now. Good luck to any other aspiring repair-persons!

Keep up the good work fella, dont listen to the trolls out there, u are one of the best, been following u a long time, we need luthiers like u... Thanks for your kwnoledge and well doing... we salute u .. greetings from southern Spain...Thank u Sir!

"Steam is a dry heat!" Oh wow. 😂🤣🤣

“Steam is a dry heat!” That made me laugh out loud!

I had the privilege of meeting the founder of Harmony guitars in 1987, Mr. Franklin Harmony. He was a very nice man, and very disgruntled that his guitars were considered cheap. Mr. Franklin Harmony passed away only 2 years later in 1989.

Really liking that non steam way of removing necks. I am going to try that next week or so. The steam method is so extremely messy. Thanks for the tip!

this is as cool as building a lightsaber

I’m really looking forward to this series... although I own a Martin now, I started out with a Harmony when I was taking lessons in the 60s, and have fond memories of it.

Great video! I laughed and cringed when you mentioned the viewer comment that steam was a "dry heat". Looking forward to seeing the next steps in repairing this Harmony.

I love those soundholes without the rosette.

Another great video by one of the best lutherie teachers around. I've no personal experience but I've heard he is a damned good luthier too. Thanks Ted.

Never miss your vids! So informative!

I think that Harmony is a really pretty guitar. I love the plain wood look like that. I've been binging all of these videos, going through a pretty rough time so this helps a lot. Thanks man!

Always enjoy watching your work. Thanks for posting

Truly enjoy and value your videos. Thank you for posting! 😎

I am glad to be here and be able to watch this series as it's released. Plus, I have a few old budget guitars from the 60's that need work so I will definitely use the knowledge that I learn. Thank you!

Can't wait to see the rest this series!

Looking forward to the next part, dude! Exciting stuff.

If a neck turns you down for a date you know it's poplar.

Thanks for posting these excellent videos. Your workmanship is a joy to watch. Looking forward to Part 2.

A treat as always. Can’t wait for part 2.

Thanks for the 5 minute laugh when you referred to the person who commented about steam being a dry heat. That one got even my wife laughing. Loved your hands shaking when you said that. That said it all. Really enjoy your videos and always anxious to watch the latest. I appreciate your professionalism, one of the best on KZfaq . Thanks also for the knowledge you share selflessnessly. Wow, that was a log word! LOL! Thanks again and I wish you great success even though I think you already have achieved it from hard work and dedication.

This is gonna be fun. Loved your vibrating hands in response to the dry steam heat comment!

Working on one of these, spruce top. Was found in the attic of a condo for who knows how long.

I've seen these heat rods before and been thinking it would be good to get a dryer removal. But the size of the hole coupled with the scorching of the fretboard is two strikes against. That smaller wire with the dc generator sounds like a winner. That's a cool guitar, I just finished a '62 1213 arch top with a caved in top. Not broken but sunk with the braces loose. I'm thinking the mahogany will sound better than the birch on my unit. Really fat neck as well but that helps with no adjustable rod. Like I say every time I say anything at all, you do wonderful work.

Thanks for the post, Tim. You are really are putting out master classes here. Looking forward to the next, and the next, and the next neck video. ;)

My dad had THE EXACT SAME GUITAR. First guitar I every picked up.

Thanks Hamilton Keep up the great channel Windsor will keep tuning in

Beautiful work and an interesting instrument.

refreshing to watch a youtube luthier that's IS a master craftsman and is NOT a purist. bravo! BTW, that quasi-knot in the fret-board....and a poplar neck. hmmmm, i remember using that stuff only as drawer bottoms on cabinetry.

Great start. I will eagerly follow the overhaul process from here in the UK.

Great video, very informative, appreciate the content and effort

New subscriber, I've been watching a lot of your old videos and you are super interesting and I love watching you work. You're a great craftsman.

Ladder bracing is making a comeback.

I'm glad to have "discovered" your KZfaq page. While I've learned many things from another well-respected luthier, I look forward to refining the skills I've picked up ( and have applied) by listening to and admiring your style and content. Thank you!

Thanks for sharing your considerable knowledge and experience with us. I really appreciate it. I imagine that you had to pay a pretty penny for your luthier instruction and training. Watching your videos is like a essentially free course in stringed instrument repair. Great stuff!

It seems to me that you're about 50 years too young to have so much skill and so much knowledge. Looking forward to the rest of this series.

You make the best videos. Thanks

I'm so glad you're posting this series. I have two H165's, one of which plays acceptably, and the other has a broken neck joint. I'm planning to do some work on both of them (eventually, when I have actual spare time). I will be referring back to your observations, which are in significant agreement with my own, and your advice and techniques. Looking forward to it. 👍

Loved the vid, so keen for the others

I really enjoyed watching this! I love those mahogany Martin style guitars. All the best from rainy England

Thank you for the entertaining education, I'll bet there will be a run on all mahogany Harmony guitars in the next couple of weeks. I love your channel please keep them coming.

Thanks for the videos, and for your calm and thorough explanations of what and why. Despite my best efforts, I always learn something from you. Thumbs up to crush a troll.

I modified a 55w soldering iron and used a 1/16" tungsten tig welding electrode. The tungsten stays straight under full heat from the iron. Tungsten melts at 3,422°C (6,192°F)

Cool !! Can't wait to watch the next episode ! You should be on Netflix !!!

Thank you so much, this is fantastic

Dry heat ? Hot air ! Loving your channel, thanks

Fantastic info as always thank you

Thanks for showing us this! I love old harmony guitars! I have 2 of them, a 1948 Stella( needs a total rebuild - sat in a shed for years,and a 67 harmony Stella which is still playable but needs a reset. Both were free ! Thanks for caring about cheaper guitars, because some of us can't afford a Cadillac ,we have to drive a pinto!

I liked the way you ended the video with the rhetorical question "Sound good?" I'm quite sure it will sound great, Ted 👍

This is great, Ted! The other Harmony that I mentioned I have is a 165. It needs *all* the work, so this series is especially welcome. I'm going to x-brace mine, in addition to the neck reset (and likely bridge replacement).

Really liking this.

I would love to hear more about that wire and that power supply. Thanks for your videos!

That was most interesting. It may be a cheapie but I think it looks rather handsome. I'm looking forward to the next episode.

Super interesting as usual, can't wait for the rest of the series. I vote no on the pickguard, I really like the starkness of that mahogany top. Looking forward to this project.

I Love your work

Your videos are comforting enough to forgive making us look at math..

Nice work as always! I agree the Harmony is worth saving. The sound will be different but it will have sonic value.

I have a similar Harmony with Spruce top and Mahogany back and sides. Top is nice and flat but a neck reset and relief correction like you are doing is needed so I am excited to follow your series. Currently working on an archtop tenor guitar I rescued in the meantime.

12:47 Rage shake is classic.

I have an electric harmony from the 80s and its one of my favorites

Beautiful guitar man

After watching several of your videos and really enjoying your craftmanship....I've decided you need to a day off to visit a manicurist.😄😉 Please don't take your shoes off.🥴🤯🤯 Great vids keep up the good work!

I think Mahogany top guitars are less susceptible to climatic conditions because I have not seen any mahogany top guitar repairs online.. And also this guitar held upto 60 years for a neck reset.. Nice video..

Really enjoyed this video and am looking forward to future episodes. You make what is a difficult job like removing a neck so straight forward which I’m sure it isn’t. That old Harmony is built from quality materials and is well worth restoring, l have an old Harmony Sovereign which is in dire need of a neck reset but I’ve no idea who I can trust to do the work over here in the UK. I’m sure that the finished guitar will sound great. I own an early 2000s Martin D15 which is all mahogany and it is a really nice sounding instrument with a good tone for accompanying vocals .

I love Lark Street Music! I think my friend bought his Harmony Sovereign there. Really cool shop.

bravo super work and detail, really enjoy your sharing during video, thanks for the tips and history on Harmony. I am looking at a thrift store Harmony which could be a decent all solid wood instrument if restored. And it is going to need just about all of what you are sharing with the one you have.

My first guitar was a Crestwood acoustic my sister had, not even up to Harmony quality. Great job!

I've rebuilt a LOT of Harmony and Kay guitars over the decades and always added an adjustable trussrod. After removing the neck, I'd remove the fingerboard and pull out the steel bar. I would then recut the trussrod channel by screwing a sacrificial 1/4" piece of plywood (or Masonite) an inch wider than the headstock and as long as the neck to the fingerboard area with four (2 at each end) 1/2" counter-sunk flathead screws. Keep everything centered this way: draw centerlines on the neck and on the plywood, then drill two 1/2" inspection holes, one at each end of the plywood along the centerline. Lay the plywood over the neck and line up the centerlines by sighting through the holes. Clamp, then screw it on. The plywood is used to rest against the rip fence of the table saw. First I'd make a test pass with the blade set just a few thousandths above the surface of the table to check the cut along the plywood centerline. If you're within 1/32" side-to-side, that's good enough. Set the blade at the correct depth, about 1/8" less than the combined thickness of the neck at its thinnest part plus the 1/4" plywood. You should creep up on the depth cut first. Run your cut all the way out into the headstock. When you get that good, flip the neck 180° and make a pass in the opposite direction. Often this was enough to give me the correct width 3/16ths slot because I rarely got things perfectly centered. If the slot is too narrow because you were too accurate, a tiny movement (maybe 1/32") of the rip fence and two more passes. Then it was a matter of chiseling the headstock like a Gibson for the trussrod nut and washer, a curved filler piece of wood clamped and glued on top of the trussrod that's later planed flush with the neck. I'd wax the trussrod with candle wax so any glue wouldn't stick. McDonalds straws also worked well. Keep the ends of the rod as near the fingerboard surface and the center of the rod as deep in the slot as you can, the more curve you build into it the better it works. I'd figure on maybe 5 hours for the whole job. It worked well every time but you may want to do a dry run on a junk neck first. Another little trick I'll pass on using the "sacrificial 1/4" plywood to cut a centerline" technique. When you need to make a new fingerboard to replace an old one that you have but is unusable, using the 2-centerline method. screw the old fingerboard to the plywood and rip it down the center on the saw. Next, take the two halves of the f-board and screw them to a piece of 3/4"plywood shimmed up maybe 1/16"with your new un-tapered f-board blank laid in between them, making sure the fret slots line up on either side. You want the surface of the old F-board that 1/16" higher than the new board. If the new board is already tapered, this won't work unless you can accurately center and secure it between the 2 halves of the old f-board. The newly cut edges of the old f-board must be parallel which is why I prefer using an untapered blank between the 2 halves. Clamp the new board in place so it can't shift. This is your new and very accurate fret slot cutting jig. Lay the saw in the slots of the old board and start your cuts in the new board and only go to about half depth. Pull the new board out and then finish your cuts. I really like your vids a lot. There's some real hackers out there documenting it all for our benefit but you definitely ain't one of them. But I might be, no vids to prove it one way or the other, but there's a ton of these old beaters out there I kept flying. There was one I paid $5 for that was covered in house paint but had a beautiful spruce top underneath it. I pulled the neck and top, X-braced it, trussrod , and a nice tobacco burst finish and it sounded amazing. Hung it on the wall of the store I worked in and sold it the next day for $400, 1983 dollars which would be about $1,000 today.

My favourite type of guitar. I play a new Guild M-20 solid mahogany. I have seen Harmony solid mahogany come up now and then. They now tend to ask double what i am willing to pay! Will be great to watch these!

12:47 Someone told you "You don't know anything about steam because it's a DRY heat". Lol. That's hilarious!

... so funny, I can get a sense of the good materials by the fact that the guitar is ringing along with your voice while it is facing the camera while you are talking.

I can't recollect the last time I was so eager to feel my head spinning (well, I can, but we shan't put that in writing, here...nope). This "series" idea was/is great, and I'd forgotten to cast my vote, so I'm now very pleased to see it is indeed occurring. Something tells me that this ol' Harm'ny will have never played and sounded so sweet. Treat your patient well, and please don't literally "throw the kitchen sink at her". After her "Tedoplasty" she'll awaken renewed...she'll be healthy, vibrant and singing better than ever. "Scalpel..."

Had a Harmony for my first guitar. The action was extremely high. The case it came in was far better than the guitar inside 😊. I believe it would have been better for archery than music! Thanks for the excellent videos.

I wish my old harmony was mahogany like this guy. Looks really nice and woody 2 me

"Steam is a dry heat" LMAO

Nichrome post heaters need a wire loop; the return wire can either be more nichrome or a non-heating wire, and the wires need to be insulated from each other. Making them narrow, rigid and reliable sounds like an interesting research project. Back of a napkin calculations: to get 20W (80W per neck) from a 4" / 10cm of 22ga (~0.025" / 0.64mm) length of nichrome 60 (about 1 ohm/ft, or 0.33 ohm/10cm) requires 2.5V @ about 8A, so you could combine four of them in series with 10V at 8A (also 80W (of course)). Should be just barely doable from a sub-$100 0-30V 0-10A adjustable power supply but I would have to test it. If you wanted different amounts of heat in the front and back, the easiest way is to waste it in the air with separate lengths of nichrome wire.

I'm going to need more popcorn for this one!

Lark Street! They're great guys there. I own a shop not far from them, and when we get the odd rarity, we usually send people over to them for work.

As several have said already, this is a class act. And I like the idea of treating just about any survivor instrument with respect. These old cheapies gave a lot of guys a good start with a career in music. Getting to the tools you use: Couldn't you use a smaller diameter steel rod for that heating effort? Especially since you're using a soldering iron to heat it. You might build a two- or three-pronged tool welded together and heat the whole thing with the soldering iron. Sorry--your discussion got me into a problem-solving mood. Keep the videos coming.

"Cross your fingers. Knock on wood. " I thought I was the only one.

Wow it's a really interesting guitar.

Thank you for the video!!

I’m also restoring one of these. I’m leaving the ladder braces and the top loader bridge. Mine needs a neck reset and a refret and the bridge reglued though.

For heating the tenon i use a hakko air station with a 1mm nozzle. You can dial the temp really good based on the glue, and usually get away with one or two 1,3mm holes.

This is a very interesting repair to me. I have seen videos of these Harmony's that have been redone and they sell or mod for over a thousand and they sound great. I wonder how would that guitar sound with redone neck, new frets, bridge, and repair the original braces if needed. I have an old parlor guitar with ladder braces and it sounds wonderful. Believe it not not, extra light electric guitar strings are about half the tension of acoustic guitar steel strings,. Anyway, I'm following this job with interest.

Hi ! Absolutely stunning 7 videos serie and work ! I do understand your arguments about the bridge, nevertheless you may have experiment and come up with a "kind of" Lowden type bridge, I dig them. Nonetheless, the final result and sound are gorgeous. Love your channel.

Strictly speaking, your commentator who suggested steam is dry heat is sort of right, in that steam is the gaseous state of water. BUT most people speak of water vapour as steam, and that is what is created in 'steam' neck resets. It's wet!

That’s wild. I litterally just sold one of these in Oshawa. Very cool guitar but the one I had was a disaster

Look up 3D printer heater cartridges. They heat up fast and even. You could find something to screw on a wire to them via a heater block they use or even make an aluminum transfer block thing. That way, you could get away with a really small hole, or multiple. They run on 12 or 24 volts. Not sure how many amps they use though. I think they would be an option if you wanted to make your own thing. I've used guitar string to clear out a nozzle, and the string will heat up to those temperatures pretty fast, so you might even be able to use a thick guitar string for the pocket.

I have a h165 for $600 I'd love to part ways with it . It has a "hippie" in the neck and the action is great. It's a 1961 to 1963 no nuts in the truss

You're really comfortable on camera idk how you don't have more subscribers lmao