I love these cases, it why I do these videos. Thanks for the comment!

​@@ImminentThreatDefenseI have a model 732 in S&w long a1967 yr. Can I shoot buffalo bore ammo it's all steel. Let me know

You know I did this video as a trial, it was only the second video I produced and I'd never seen or heard of this gun before my nephew asked me to clean it. I really didn't think anybody would be interested but I was trying to get better at video production and I figured I might need the video to help me get it back together :-). Now it's one of my top 5 videos, it got nearly 7,000 hits this last month. Thanks for watching!

@@ImminentThreatDefense you did an excellent job! I've got a hand full of videos that I had done on my phone. (Need a new computer to do more and edit). This is a fantastic video and you should keep making videos. Quality not quantity is what matters. This is quality!

I used a slave pin, just a little piece of brass rod cut to fit. You can see how I used it at 7:10 in the video. I also made a video on how to make slave pins. Here's the link kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sKuXeceqyJ3DqJc.html Thanks for watching and commenting!

The trigger spring you see at 3:45 is what resets the trigger, that could be broken or installed incorrectly. Otherwise, something mechanical in the works is restricting the movement of the trigger. Those would be my best guesses.

let's take this discussion off line. please email me at ITDefenseTraining@gmail.com and send me pictures of the parts.

Yes the cylinder spins freely until the trigger is pulled.

try gunpartscorp.com or Jack First gun parts. thanks for watching

Sorry but I don't have direct experience trying to swap those parts and it would be impossible to find any reference documents that would help.

OK, that's helps. So first, I don't have a 922 to compare to and I've never taken one down, but it's not that different from other revolvers. So the Cylinder stop moves one way when the trigger moves (obviously you have that figured out) and moves the other way under spring force. Normally the trigger pulls it down and the spring pushes it up. First, with the cylinder removed, push on the cylinder stop and see if it moves (you might have to pull the trigger at the same time). If the cylinder stop will move and it's springing back into position, but the trigger doesn't move it then it might be broken. Looking at the parts pictures the cylinder lock is kind of like an open jaw, if the lower half were broken then the trigger couldn't pull it down. Again if the stop moves freely but the spring is meant to pull it down, then the spring might be broken, collapsed or gummed up. Hope that helps

Watch the video closely at 8:23, you will see I had the same problem with the trigger rebound spring. If you don't install it just the way I do it will slip off, this part of the reassembly is definitely the trickiest. If you're following that procedure and it's still slipping off (listen for the click) could be that your replacement spring is a little short and won't stay in place no matter how you install it. Hope that helps, let me know how it turns out. Thanks for watching!

Yeah it should. You can find a parts list at gunpartscorp.com. I looked and it shows a friction pin. Hope that helps thanks for watching

I'm unaware of any aftermarket grips for this revolver it's a little too rare. You can find a number of custom grip companies out there that could probably provide what you want, I did a quick google for "wooden revolver grip kit" and got a bunch of hits. There was one that would provide blanks and you finish them yourself, that's the way I'd do it (but I like making stuff), they're probably the most cost effective (www.tombstonegrips.com/) but some of those custom companies may already have the mold for this revolver, so I'd ask around. Hope that helps, thanks for watching.

Sorry I don't but this video should be very close.

My go to parts suppliers on antique guns are Numrich and Jack First. If you'd like to send me an email at ITDefenseTraining@gmail.com I'll send you a comprehensive list of about a dozen places. I see that Numrich has a new manufacture replacement part for that spring, you should check it out. Thanks for watching!

See the video at about 6:05 there's lever spring that pushes the lever (hand) away from the lifter. If the spring is weak or missing or the lifter isn't in position against the hammer (see the video at 7:00) then the lever would not be in the right position. Thanks for watching!

:-) you sir are clearly perceptive enough to perceive a subtext to my videos. I appreciate the comment. Real story; on one of my other videos I state to place the safety in the "safe" position before disassembly, not in this case because it's necessarily safer, but because it also aligns certain parts. One viewer didn't follow that advice and got the parts jammed. Then he became outraged and got on a rant that I was incompetent. His excuse for not placing the safety on safe? Because I didn't tell him why, so he didn't. Best part is about half way through the video I explain how to fix the situation if you failed to put the gun on safe, but 4.5 minutes was apparently beyond his attention span, as he never got to that section.

You can try an internet search, I know there are a couple of suppliers that had it in black powder, try Buffalo Arms. This is one for handloading, the brass and bullets are readily available. Thanks for watching!

I said shame body

Numrich has the parts for less than $10 but they're not in stock. Jack First doesn't list the gun but call them they're pretty good at helping out. That said, you can make those parts easier than you think. The pin could be made from a standard piece of rod or cut off drill bit. In fact, use a drill bit to figure out the diameter of the hole for the pin. You can probably find a spring that fits from inside something else like the spring that pushes on the flint in a lighter or in a ball point pen, or a toy. Or there are tons of spring kits like on Amazon that you might find the right diameter and cut it to length. Also, Brownells has them maybe the by Wolff kit #1607

Pins instead of screws? Are you sure it's the same revolver? Either way the friction pin is probably just rusted up. Before you try removing it, try soaking it with penetrating oil and see if can just push on it with a punch and get it loose. Otherwise it can be removed like I show in the video.

@@ImminentThreatDefense I ended up getting it and no I was mistaken I guess mine is the 1904 I have to many of these little guys to keep track of . I got it apart and out the sear spring was not fun 😊 but it's all good now thanks again for the vid it was a lot of help still.amd it was a pain on the spring but this is still easier then working on my middle 10 a those are finicky

Hmmm... that's not a serial number consistent with a 632. 632's were made post 1940 in which case the serial number should start with a letter. 632's were made from 1952-1958 and 1973-1986. Now if you misread that leading 5, and it's actually an S then that would be consistent. Serial numbers starting with S designate a 1956 manufacture date. There's very good book by W.E. "Bill" Goforth on H&R firearms, it's available on Amazon, he is a leading authority on H&R history. Otherwise here's a link to the post 1940 serial number key gun-data.com/harringtonrichardson2_modern.html

The punch's are available from Brownells, they call them replaceable pin punch part number 080507050. The come with steel pins but you can buy brass rod stock that fits so you can replace the steel. Brass obviously bends and wears faster but both pins can be easily replaced. Plus you can cut the pins to length. I particularly like that they have a square shoulder so I don't have to worry about over driving them and damaging the firearm. Thanks for watching!

ahhh, replace it? Try www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/hr/revolvers-hr/american looks like they have them for under $10 Thanks for watching!

Best sources I've found, for all older guns, are gunpartscorp.com and jackfirstgun.com

Numric gunparts, or gunbrokers and search under gun parts kit.

Try Numrich gun parts.

Help me out a little. When you say "fails" does that mean the hammer doesn't fall or the gun doesn't fire when the hammer falls?

It's tricky with these revolvers and I'm not an expert. It's hard to tell the difference between a third variant 1st model (1898-1904) and the 2nd model (1905-1941). All first models were black powder, it wasn't until 1905 with the second model did they allow "smokeless" powder ammunition. Both of these variants are distinct in that they have octagon barrels with the company name and address on the left side of the barrel. However, my understanding is that the second model includes the caliber on the side of barrel. That said I'd caution against assuming "smokeless" powder from 1904 equals "modern" powder from 2024. A lot has changed in 120 years. Personally, if I had the overwhelming desire to shoot one of these, I'd hand load some very light loads. I'd be more inclined to let it retire in peace an put in a glass case on the wall. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!

Thanks for the reply and info....Appreciated @@ImminentThreatDefense

When I was looking at parts lists last night I noticed it was a top break. The two parts of interest are the cylinder stop and the hand. The stop comes up from the bottom of the cylinder and engages the side of the cylinder and the hand come out of the breech face and engages the end of the cylinder. So check those parts for wear, but also inspect the cylinder (where those parts engage) for wear. Also check those parts for freedom of movement. The hand advances the cylinder but the stop holds it.

The Premier has a long narrow spring in a groove in the cylinder axis. This is what provides cylinder tension.

Well I did some looking and measuring seems the knub that sticks up off the trigger to hold the cylinder is worn as well and the grooves in the cylinder look worn sorry I don't know the actual terminology my question is can I build that knub up with jb weld and file it down to fit or won't jb weld be strong enough? As well as putting the cylinder in my mill and knock that groove out a couple thousandths? Can't find a new trigger or cylinder it's stamped 933 but I can't find anything except the hand grips

I'd be surprised if JBweld held up very long. Sounds like it going to be a tough fix, you might be able to make a new trigger. But it may be time to put this one down :-( If you're really attached to this one, there's one on Gunbroker for $26, buy it and use it for parts.

I'm not really attached just never shot it and would like to plus if I ever want to sell it I wouldn't feel right with the cylinder rock is the mechanism usually regular steel? That I could braise it then hit it with the end mill down to tolerance?

Could be just dirty/rusty. Or The trigger spring could be worn, broken or installed wrong . see the video at 8:20 . Hope that helps

Sorry, don't have access to one, but the Iver Johnson top break is very similar in design and I have a video on that one kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d9eZp72mu6rTdnU.html

hmmm, yeah I agree with you shortening the spring leg won't likely help. In fact if it's anything the spring might be too wide and it's the sides that are rubbing. As you pull the trigger listen for that little "click" to see if the spring is disengaging. By what you're describing it sounds like a full trigger pull the spring is disengaging. but it also sounds like you've got another problem with the friction. Try leaving out some parts (like the lifter) one at a time and see if the trigger behaves the same way. That way you might be able to identify which parts are rubbing and creating the friction. If you can narrow it down to one part that'll be a start.

Imminent Threat Defense thanks. I’ll try that. I’ll let you know how it turns out.

I've never found a good source for a SN chart on this model (or any H&R's made prior to 1940). I'm not even sure that number you found on the grip is an SN because I've never found any other references to SN's on this model. You can see the one the video only had a 3 digit number.

@Imminent Threat Defense i read early models had SN under the grip (had to remove grip). Mine is stamped on the metal bottom of the grip. I read later models were done that way.

Probably a stuck or missing friction pin. See the video at around 4:00. Thanks for watching.

That's exactly what it is. Where can I find that Friction pin? And thank you for answering me and your video.

@@nicolaferriolo7886 try gunpartscorp.com or Jackfirstgun.com. If they don't have it you might be able to make one easily enough from steel rod (avail in diameters at hardware or hobby stores) You can some times salvage a spring from a lighter (flint spring), a pen or toy that will fit. The spec on that spring should be pretty tolerant.

Thank you so much. Keep you updated.

@@nicolaferriolo7886 I have the same problem but I dont want to touch it and make it worst

Hard to say how much movement you're getting. Look for wear in the bolt (that little tab on top of the trigger) and the corresponding cuts in the cylinder. If they look good then a loose fitting trigger pin could allow the trigger to wobble and that would let the cylinder move. But realistically you can't expect this gun to be too tight even when it was new, it was a pretty basic revolver.

@@ImminentThreatDefense Thanks for the reply. Now I just have to locate an ammo I can use. I've been told modern 32 ammo is okay for this gun but online opinions differ. Anyway, I'll start with the vice and string method for testing.

My understanding is that the first model (round barrel here in the video) was designed for black powder, whereas the octagon barrels (second and third models) were designed for smokeless powder. However, a lot of people confuse that change to mean smokeless= modern powder. That's a risky assumption. Powder technology has changed a lot in the last century (duh). I know for example for the M1 Garand there's been enough interest to have the studies that show you should definitely NOT use modern ammo in that rifle, and they made that determination some time ago, so the rifle was only about 50 at the time. (you can find special 30-06 ammo for the M1). Admittedly, we're talking about a gas operating semi there, where the pressure profile has a bigger impact. But for this revolver we're talking, what, 120-130 years ago, pretty sure that's not the same powder. So if I was determined to shoot that pistol, I'd get some custom light loads. But I'd be more likely to just keep it in a glass case :-)

Sounds like a first model second variation 1888-1897. If the picture is dated correctly that narrows it down to a 5 year window 1888-1893. With these guns and the wild serial number sequences that's about as good as it gets. The book Bill Goforth’s H&R Arms Co 1871-1986 is highly regarded for history on Harrington & Richardson. If there's more detail to be found it'll be in Goforth's book.

@@ImminentThreatDefense thank you for your help. Appreciate it.

I would love to but I don't have access to one, sorry. Thanks for watching.

@@ImminentThreatDefense Thank you for taking the time to respond, I really didn't expect you to. I've ordered a new metal mainspring and if it fixes my problem then I may never take my 929 apart BUT if it doesn't then I will bite the bullet so to speak and go for it in an attempt to get it running reliably . Who knows what I will find. Thanks again.

Sorry, not sure what the breach door on this gun is. If you go to Gunpartscorp.com they have a parts diagram www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/hr/revolvers-hr/american use their terminology and maybe I can get on the same page. Thanks

@@ImminentThreatDefense I figured it Out. It uses a piece of spring steel shaped like a small spoon held in with a set screw. It's what keeps it closed. Thanks anyway.

See the video at 1:02, it's black powder 32 S&W caliber

I do have a couple more questions for you. Under handlegrip there is a #4 that is spaced away from the other three numbers almost to the point of it being so far to the left that just a small piece of the number is cut off. In the middle off the hand grip are the numbers 287. About a quarter inch away from the 4. Now on the trigger guard there is the # 287, the 4 is not there are all. Is the serial number 287 and the 4 means something else or is it 4287 and the 4 is missing from the trigger guard? On the inside portion of the handle grip someone has scratched in 4287 with what looks to be a nail to scratch it in. Can you make heads or tails of this? Final question is there is no lettering or numbers on the octagon barrel. Just the words The American Double Action on top of the weapon. And the serial number on the trigger guard next to the pin hole and on the handle under the grip are the only markings. The octagon barrel tells me it's not a first addition from what I gather. Is there anything else you can tell me about it. Thank you very much.

Try Numrich or Jack First, those are my go-to places for old parts. (Just checked Numrich has them for $7) 🙂

@@WillThePatriot Best I can tell those aren't serial numbers (way too small a number), I think it's some sort of manufacturing number. Maybe a batch number? Thanks for watching!

It would be best to ask them, but yeah I'm sure they've got something for either new or old 732's. The pistol in the video is so old it needs a black powder cartridge, I've found the at Buffalo Arms has a pretty good selection of ammo for these really old revolvers.

You can see at the end of the video when I do a function check it's a DA/SA. In fact I don't know of many older DA's that couldn't also be fired in SA, except obviously the internal hammer guns. The round barrel is the first generation and the octagonal barrels were later versions, so I'd have to believe the more common is the octagonal (just speculating).

Imminent Threat Defense Thanks, very interesting. I know it was a long time ago, but I distinctly remember being sort of caught off guard that the one I fired that day would not cock back into SA mode. I even commented on that and the guy who owned it said no this gun is DA only. But then I’ve seen your video and several others here on KZfaq and that’s clearly not the case, as most of them appear to be SA/DA like most revolvers that fire DA. Oh well, maybe someone modified the one I shot somewhere along the way because they didn’t want SA? I do remember it have a fairly heavy trigger pull. Maybe somewhere in that pistol’s history the owner wanted to carry 5 in the cylinder and have the firing pin between two case rims as I’ve read about in the past. That way, the only way the gun would fire would be to do the long DA trigger pull. Who knows! But your video brought back good memories I like they way these old revolvers look and felt. Maybe I’ll pick one up some day...can you even buy .38 S&W cartridges anymore? I seem to remember running Remington factory ammo but this was in the 90’s so I might be wrong about that. I do remember the chamber of because it was the only time in my life I had seen or shot a pistol chambered in that round.

I think you're right in that you can never say never about these old guns, there were a lot of variations :-) As for the ammo, yes you can find 38 S&W even in blackpowder which is what some of these old guns require, Buffalo Arms sells it. You can also find reloading data for it.

I just got an American Bull Dog in 38 S&W center fire. After watching the video mine looks like the one in the video except mine has a octagon barrel. I think mine is a Iver Johnson's from what I have found on the web. Stamped on the top of the barrel is "AMERICAN BULL DOG" and under the left grip 64 79. I do not know what 64 79 means, is that a production code or a serial number? The gun seems to old to have a serial number. Tell me if you know. Mine will fire in SA and DA. But in SA the trigger is farther back and seems to take a heavier pull to fire than using DA.

Of course it's very difficult to tell from a verbal description. Understanding how it works is key to diagnosing the problem. But if I understand you, you can pull the trigger but the cylinder won't rotate. The cylinder rotates on the "center pin" (see video at 1:35) so presuming the center pin isn't bent and the cylinder rotates freely on the center pin then we can look elsewhere. The cylinder is advanced with the "lifter" pushing on the cylinder star (4:35). You should be able to look through the gap between the cylinder and breech face and see if the lifter is engaging the cylinder. If not then the lifter spring is broken or the lifter is gummed up and can't move, or the lifter could be broken or missing. If the lifter is engaging but not grabbing the back of the cylinder then the cylinder star or the lifter tip could be worn. How to fix it? Well of course I have to recommend you take it to a trained gunsmith. The gunsmith could determine if it's just gummed up take it apart and clean it, if he didn't want to take it apart he could soak it overnight in gun solvent then try blowing it out with compressed air. Otherwise figure out which part is broken or worn and replace it. Try Gunpartscorp.com for parts for this gun. Hope that helps, thanks for watching.

Good comment. You can be innovative with slave pins, Q-Tips, wooden matches, a piece of wire, tooth picks (as you said) etc all will do in a pinch. Putting a touch of grease on the undersized ones to hold them in place is a good trick too. I actually have a video on my site on how to make slave pins, if you're interested kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sKuXeceqyJ3DqJc.html

Numrich is generally the best bet. But Jack First Gun Parts has a pretty good supply. You can always buy a used one and rob it for parts. I saw one on Gun Broker not too long ago $26 for the whole gun. I'll bet you could pull the parts you need and sell the rest to Numrich and at least break even.

There were a lot of revolvers produced in the late 1800's that copied the British Bulldog design, they all look pretty much the same, so they are easy to confuse. I identified this gun by it's markings, so I'm certain it's an H&R. Unfortunately in the video I didn't show the markings but you can see the patterns on the grips which are clearly H&R. Thanks for watching.

Occasionally, you can email me at ITDefenseTraining@gmail.com and we can talk about it.

Seems like it I know, but it's only 34 parts about the same as a Glock or M&P, far less than a 1911. Thanks for watching!