Heck yeah! Ride on brother🤘

So here is my take on “locktiting” bolts, its not complicated but there is a lot of considerations that go into it, so bear with me. To start, here is my story. I have 4,000 miles on my bike now, I have lost a total of 4 bolts. Keep in mind I recommend loctiting bolts BUT I have never put locktite on my bike anywhere. The problem I have with locktite is that it makes it very hard or impossible to remove hardware down the road. I live in the rust belt so I have had too many experiences with bolts that won’t come out. Honestly I’d rather have every bolt rattle loose than not be able to remove them. So a couple things, bolt type and placement really matters and makes a big difference on wether or not your bolts stay in place. It’s best if you can torque them down good, just don’t overdo it. I’d say bolt type and placement is the key point here. Hopefully this helps! If you have any other questions just drop them below. Thanks for watching and commenting!

That’s excellent! Glad this info helped you! Not sure what’s going on but disregard the other comment lol. I think KZfaq is acting up lol. Thanks for watching!

No problem! Thanks for the awesome comment!

Hit the nail on the head! Thanks for the comment, it’s very usefull to many That don’t know to put grease on bleeder fittings. I didn’t in the video, next time I bless them I will put grease on them lol. Thanks for watching!

@@goodolboys713 you have a email i live in whitehall ohio so like to have your email

I understand you point, there’s is some debate on how to adjust valves, the general consensus is to adjust them cold. Most people agree on cold valve adjustment. Iv always adjusted valves cold and never had issues. I suppose it comes down to personal preference in the end. I understand there is a difference between warm and cold adjustment. The manufacture gives you specs to adjust the engine cold. They adjust the valves cold in the factory as well. Another thing that’s notable here, there is no specific direction (in the manual) on valve adjustment. And again valves are normally adjusted cold. the manual will normally specify if there is any specific procedure to adjust valves (like warming the engine up). Just a couple reason why I adjust my valves cold, again Iv always had good luck with adjusting the valves cold. Thanks for your two cents, happy thanksgiving, and thanks for watching!

Not an expert of any kind here, but I've always set the valve lash on cold engine's.... Just bc I've never had an issue, doesn't necessarily mean it's the correct way. That being said, I've had no problems over the years w the method - so I suppose nothing will change for me :)

Absolutely!

Haha yeah, it could use a change. I’m not too worried about it though, Iv seen much worse 😂😂. Thanks for watching!

Many people change out to a pod filter, like me, I did that too, but then I found out I could just upgrade the airbox itself and give it an intake extension right at the front of both fenders as a dual intake, which increases airflow and power when using a larger nibbi PE30 carb. Couple that with a camshaft upgrade, a better ignition coil and spark plug, and exhaust upgrade and you'll reach a substantial power gain compared to stock, all while keeping your air filter dry. Use K&N 1060 air pods on the front of each intake tube you create connected to the airbox that are at the top of the gas tank snug between the fender plastics, and give it a cone so it funnels air into the pod. Make an airtight seal around the custom tubing and airbox. Don't apply oil to those pods and only oil the airbox filter so airflow can remain high flowing at idle. It helps so much when going highway speeds

I see what your saying, it won’t hurt the air filter to blow it either way. I had mud, grease, leaves and a wet filter, the best way to clean it is to blow both sides off. If it was dry I could have blown it out the back but it was as wet as a wet dog. Thanks for watching and commenting!

@@goodolboys713 yeah i buy brigges and stratton air filters at wall mart...exact fit.

@@logansportpilotrp8174 haha good to know! I’d much rather spend $10 on a filter compared to $40 on a k&n. So many people obsessed with making these bike faster 😂 I mean it’s a 13hp bike, they think they are going to make a drag car lol. Thanks for the tip!

Thanks so much!! That’s excellent! You can make the bike so much better with a few mods! Great info to know about the K&N I figured it wasn’t a perfect fit lol.. thanks for commenting!

Thanks! Thanks for watching!

Always😂

Great point! Although I’ll stick with my grease;) stock clutch cable at 4,200 miles, greased from day one :) Teflon lube sounds like a good solution for many that don’t like the messy-ness of grease. I’ll have to give it a try some time. Thanks for watching!

@@goodolboys713 wd40 is actually a great lube for brake and gear cables. It does not attract that much dirt or dust as many think.

@@MrCbell57 wd40 is actually Water Displacer hince WD. It is a penetrant and for water displacement, however I would not recommend using on the cables for lube. Although it really doesn’t matter what you do, it’s really your own opinion on what you lube your cables with if at all. You have to remember all these cables come dry from the factory, and in most cases people do not lube their cables. If you’re using WD-40 to lube your cables you’re doing better than most. Thanks for watching!

Thanks! I appreciate all the awesome comments!

Thanks so much!

100% agree with that statement!

It’s worth tearing into.

Thanks for paying attention to detial! Your the man! Thanks for watching!

I’m about 190lbs, I run 15psi on the road front and back. Off-road 11psi up front and 10psi in the rear. If you live in a place with large sharp rocks in the trail, raise the off-road tire pressure a few psi. Hopefully this helps, thanks for watching!

@@goodolboys713 Thankyou I have battelid to get this info Thanks once again keep up the good info

No worries man. I appreciate the commentary! It’s always good to raise questions. It causes folks to dig deeper into their research which is a good thing. Thanks for watching and commenting!

That is KZfaq in a nutshell, honestly kind of shameful KZfaq operates that way. Iv heard of a lot of people get unsubscribed from even the big channels. Anyway, thanks for watching and being a supporter of the channel!

Haosen makes the engine on the hawk. Orion power sports and tx power sports has a good selection of parts for the hawk and a few other Chinese brands. Thanks for watching!

I will add it to the list of video to make. Thanks for watching!

You are great and thanks to the videos it will help keep my bike runni Ng good

@@joraw1 tha is for the comment! Glad I could help!

Thanks! I used 10 weight oil for the forks, seems to be working great. I had a clicking in the forks before I changed the oil, now no noise, and the forks are working better than ever! Thanks for watching!

@@goodolboys713 do you what the spark plug gap is by chance?

@@goodolboys713 this may seem like a silly question, but I watched your checklist video and I’m not sure which bolts to put locktite on and which ones to put anti seize. Would the anti seize be just on the engine bolts and loctite every where else?

It would be very difficult to without ALOT of modification. They make a fuel injected hawk from the factory, if you want a fuel injected hawk this would be the way to go. Thanks for watching!

So there’s a few places to buy parts, in general alot of people go to txps online. I use eBay and Amazon when I can. If your looking for anything specific check out the hawk 250 playlist which is linked in the description box of this video. Iv got many maintenance and repair videos on how and where to buy parts. Thanks for watching!

Exactly right sir! Can’t remember if I showed it in the video, but I antisiezed those two bolts that I replaced for the throttle housing.

Unfortunately I don’t have any affiliate link.. amazon is an excellent place to get this bike from! I had really good luck buying from amazon. Thanks for watching!

Iv heard a lot of good things about the hawk dlx, unfortunately I personally have not had any experience with it. What I can tell you is that the carbureted hawk is an awesome bike, I love it because it’s very simple, not too many extra electronics. In all honesty you probably can’t go wrong with either bike. Thanks for watching!

@@goodolboys713 so for the extra ~500$ you say if I didn’t have to mess with all the electrical stuff just go with the older hawk?it’s going to be a commuter bike just to get me from one place to another then went it has a good break in be able to take it to the bigger town near me for the night you know. Also I had no idea you had both.

@@doughill810 I don’t think you can go wrong with either bike. I only have experience with the carbureted hawk and it’s awesome! Wish you the best of luck in your decision. Thanks for watching!

Motocheese has a video that shows how much fluid measured in ml. If you do it the way I show you in the video it works well without having to know an exact amount of fluid. All I did was put the fluid from each fork in a container and mark where the fluid level was. Then you clean the container and fill the container until you reach the mark that the old fluid was at. Again if you don’t feel comfortable with that motocheese gives you and exact ml for each side

So basically all your doing is trying to keep the reservoir full of brake fluid, you don’t want to go below half full, this is to prevent air from getting into your lines. This process is the same for the front and rear brake reservoirs as your bleeding. So in other words, add fluid as needed while bleeding (pump the brakes a few times, add some fluid, pump the brakes a few times, add some fluid, etc. and it goes on like this until you are accomplish your end result. When bleeding brakes, normally your bleeding brakes for two main reasons: 1. to replace dirty fluid 2. To get air out of the lines) hopefully this helps clear things up! Thanks for watching!

@@goodolboys713 it does thanks. I just wasn't sure because I didn't see you guys pouring it in as you were pumping the brakes and loosening/tightening the bleed valve...err whatever it's called lol. Just wanted to make sure I was supposed to do it during the bleed or after. Thanks for the reply bro. Watched that vid of you and the Honda and Kawasaki guy sending it in the woods....well mostly you and the hawk sending it lol

The fuel injected hawk is technically better, has better front suspension. I went with the carbureted hawk for simplicity sake I like to modify and work on my bikes. So ask yourself do you wanna mess with a carburetor or do you want a bike that will run good out of the box just have to worry about the fuel pump taking a shit on you. I'd say just buy both, jk, either bike you're gonna have to adjust the valves they come way to tight

I would have to agree with beau gibson. But what I always tell people is that I have had very good experience with my carbureted hawk. Now of course I can’t speak to how reliable the EFI hawk is. Beau has a very good point about the simplicity of the carbureted hawk. You simply have less electronics, which means you’re gonna have less problems (in the long run). Now of course, you will have to jet the carburetor on the carbureted hawk. But it’s a drop in the hat compared to all of the other preventative maintenance that needs done anyways. And you will need to do a preventative maintenance whether you get the EFI hawk or the carbureted hawk. Once you set these bikes up correctly from the start, they are very reliable bikes and will last a long time, in my experience. (And again I am mostly speaking to my experience with the carbureted hawk, once again I have not had the EFI hawk). Hope this helps! Thanks for watching!

You sure about that? I used wd40 specialist silicone. Thanks for watching! Watch the video closer next time ;)

It does have a spark arrester, I’m not sure if it’s USFS approved though. Since the bike is road legal it has been held to some pretty high standards as far as emissions go, so I would guess it’s the same for the spark arrestor. Thanks for watching.

It happens

I just use your typical permatex antiseize, it can be had at any auto parts store. I don’t worry about the valve cover bolts, Iv never had any engine bolts back out on me. I have never used locktite on my bike, and personally never will, here where I live it’s hard enough to get hardware out. Eventually bolts rust themselves in even with grease lol.

The two best ways to lower the hawk: people have been changing the rear shock to a shorted shock, the second way is to adjust the front forks in the triple clamps. Hopefully this helps! Thanks for watching!

Another option - albeit the most expensive - is getting the CSC seat concepts seat. It drops the seat height a bit, and it’s much higher quality than own. 250 bucks though.

Iv been up in the air about when exactly to change the oil, the last time I changed it at a 1,000 mile interval. I think 1,000 Miles is probably too soon to change the oil, although you can never be too safe. I’m running full synthetic Honda motorcycle oil, Iv got 2,200 miles on the oil right now and it still seems like it’s got life left. I am really wanting to do a oil test and see when exactly to change the oil. My recommendation would be to change the oil between 1,500-2,500 miles. Thanks for watching!

@@goodolboys713 what blend do you use?

😂 sooo trruueeee!! Wd40 is not grease people 😂 thanks for watching!

@@goodolboys713 no worries bro, good work here.

@@antcri730 thanks! I totally forgot I greased the cables with wd40😂 it was white lithium wd40 specialist, so it’s slightly better than wd40 lol. That being said, Iv found that chain lube works best for cables, or actual cable lube itself from iron pony. Thanks for watching!

That’s a real bummer! I unfortunately there are many things that could cause your bike to not start. A couple things to start with would be the simple things, check for gas, is it turning over? Could have a dead battery, is it in neutral, is the fuel line hooked up, is the spark plug plugged in, ect. Checking the simple things first doesn’t take much time and usually always pays off. Hope this helps!