I like this explanation better than the CAD model. Having tactile props you can move around made it way easier to understand.

Put 50p in the meter ya tight bugger , this video was brought to you and sponsored by POUND SHOP TEA LIGHT CANDLES 😆

I cannot believe you had to make 2 extra videos explaining the working mechanism

I like your explanation and some very common sense observations. If it's showing signs of wear on a standard bike fix the wear and stay with factory spec. Adopting drag racing fixes on a standard road bike doesn't make a lot of sense especially when you don't understand the function in the first place! Loved it good job.

Thanks for making this video. I'm a ne Busa owner and was confused about this particular mod. It didn't make sense to me. Your explanation helped me understand. Thank you very much!

Nice explanation of how slipper clutch truly works. I guess I can learn though virtual learning at my age(55) :)

I have a set with 65,000 on them your welcome to them when I next work on the Busa. I also have a spare center that I made. I dont weld I machine a complete new part to replace the old bits. Il say the existing clutch will take 250 hp for a semi sensible length of time and 320 hp for not that long. i use stock springs with 2.8mm shims not to overcome locking the clutch assembly in the wrong place but just to put a bit more pressure on the plates. I cant say im that worried about burning clutch plates there cheap and a quick job to replace. And I have cooked a few sets. Again its nice to see you putting this much effort into your videos, you have more enthusiasm than I have ever had and a bloody good way of putting your thoughts across.

if the ramp becomes more aggressive with ware and the moment changes between grip and slip then the clutch would grab and then the rpm would drop. Maybe its something to do with inertia between the two parts causing spring oscillations, so the ramp aggressively inputs a shock into the spring and then the force is returned undamped causing the clutch to be snatchy or chatter. Worn clutch plates will make this worse, as you pointed out you can loose 1mm due to ware. An interesting thing to investigate would be the relationship between the ware of the clutch, its effects on the static preload on the springs and the difference this causes in to the moments of engagement when in drive. I would expect the springs to be relatively soft due to the power applying the pressure to create the drive rather than the overall spring pressure or increased preload.

I bet Del spent hours turning that alloy sleeve to fit perfectly, an engineer of his standing wouldn't just chuck an old washer in

Hey this new CAD version looks very lifelike!

By now,if we don't know anything else, we know how the 'Busa slipper clutch works.

5:45 "Nice and easy to understand" That's a weird drawing of a clutch basket, LOL!

Good video, so basically the clutch is in slipper mode most of the time but increases plate pressure under increasing load, interesting ,nice one.

Brocks make a very nice back torque eliminator piece that replaces those parts… that’s the way I would be inclined to go… I think Schnitz Racing make a large circle spacer that goes behind the torque limiter to reduce the play, but as you pointed out, it’s reduces the contact area in the drive mode…

I form the leading edges of my clutch friction disks with an angle grinder, gives me a more responsive clutch.

Interesting stuff, as for doing the clutch mod on the Busa I’d be more worried about being seen riding it and shit falling off it.

It's actually incredible that this mod came to existence because someone couldn't fact check the direction of load torque, assumed it wrong and made up a fever dream of a theory about ratcheting mechanism.

See these are your best type of videos, well explained

13:38 to see what it does if you break hard on a lower gear. It will push in the springs to lower the pressure on your clutch plates and slip the engine power to your wheel.

i thought i understood that first vid but i seem to of got the way it operated reversed in my head - doh - thanks for clearing that up for me! cheers.

Hrm, I could visualise this completely after the first video where he said it works the others way.

Awesome video as usual 👌 mate. Any chance of upping the lighting a bit

I've looked on various Hayabusa forums from folk that have actually experienced the hayabusa with the mod and it appears that the clutch 'mod' is only of use for 'hard' launches such as drag race. For road use it adds nothing and possibly detracts from safety by removing the anti lock on injudicious downshifting. I've copied and pasted some of the forum answers/observations. "actually it does have an effect on hard launches... you can feel the thing load up and bottom out (as it were) The bike also displays a bit of a lurch when it happens.. The first time I launched the bike at the drag strip I thought I broke something when it hit.." "Like Big B said, you can most definately feel it when you launch hard from a stop dragrace style. The clutch slips out to a certain point as you move the lever......then suddenly grabs hard and locks. The only way to get past that is to keep the revs way up and slide the clutch out. Its a terrible set-up for dragracing........my 14 with a non-slipper clutch seems so easy to launch by comparison a baby could do it. The busa clutch is a ramped design......slips one way and locks in the other, so downshifting it'll slip, but under power it actually locks in harder as more power is applied. Very nice set-up for road riding......not so nice for drag racing" "The "slipper clutch" function is very noticeable on the Busa if one change directly from a conventional clutch to the Busa clutch. It is very easy to get an unstable rear on track before a turn if a lower gear is engaged, this does not happen on the Busa, which one can gear down without these problems. I like the Busa back tourque limiting clutch a lot." "It definitely affects hard launches at the strip.. I am a "Before and After" customer of the Brock's clutch mod which was designed just to deal with the Busa clutch, and it completely takes away the hard and unpredictable "Hit" you get from the stock clutch." Good video Matt. Interesting though that the Suzuki mechanics have replaced the hayabusa slipper with one from a different model on repair so maybe there is an issue. Also could wear to the ramps at the base cause the slipper clutch to 'ramp' harder?

HARD!

That’s what I had wondered about since the start

I've always installed new springs when I replace the clutch. Makes the new clutch last longer, as does sitting in neutral at the lights.

It would be interesting to see how the work hardening of the drive and ramp surfaces over a time on such a system effects the castings and if such was taken into account by the enginers at Suzuki as a factor of the life of the part. After all remember this was their Flagship bike in the day. Such a face would be treated you would think as a cam. Good post👍🏻

How have ppl watched a 32 minute video in 6 minutes lol

Im here trying to figure out why my bike if in gear and clutch pulled in if you rev it slightly it will start to jerk forward

Oh my god Matt your hands are clean :O

They all got the idea from old Willie Davidson!!! It's a Harley compensator And the reason there are three dogs is that each one represents each syllable of the exhaust note. PO-TA-TOE, PO-TA-TOE, PO-TA-TOE proof positive! Cheers from Beaver Valley. LOL

Good video it's just hard to wrap your head around that when you apply the clutch you put more pressure on the springs there by separating the plates instead of putting more pressure on i really needed to watch a animation on how it works

not sure you'll agree with me on this one matt but here we go, I was always told that the number 1 job of a clutch on car on bike whatever is to equalize the difference between gearbox(road) speed and engine speed nothing more or less ofc whenever I say this to anyone I get odd looks and "no it's so you can change gear" the answer is always "you do realize you can change gear without a clutch" (yeah I know it's not good but you can is the point) usually followed by a demonstration and stunned silence. What I'm getting at is if they are having these problems with the clutch slipping and there is this back torque system to counteract that really those are just safety nets so you don't burn your clutch out because your dumping it on red line...have they maybe considered...oh I dunno...learning to ride the fucking bike guaranteed if you are in a racing situation and you DONT trigger this safety mechanism you're gonna be going a hell of a lot faster because the engine isn't trying to hold itself back because the moron on top of it told it to do something really fucking stupid. It's like when you hear people complain that they are fighting with traction control or abs or something like that these things exist to rectify driver error what you're essentially saying in that moment is I fuck up regularly and have no idea why because I don't put a second of thought into what I am doing

I fitted N2O to my SV1000.... because it has a 'Busa clutch.

So If someone were to do this mod, it would be best to weld it in the forward locked position obviously? and no one has mentioned shift accuracy and quality. wouldn't shifting be more precise having this assembly welded? doesn't all that slop between the components make for a sloppy shift?

Awsome stuff as always matt.

Great information as usual

To me this clutch sounds more like a form of lockup clutch, with system providing extra load on the springs when the clutch is under load. Under no load it is just barely able to transmit the torque (hence high torque it slips).

Had an extra steel plate put in clutch and, apart from a difficulty disengaging clutch when cold, the bike ran loads better, but there was some noise. Engine has since seized and l've just had it fixed. The latest mechanic has left the extra plate out but has replaced the pressure plate and boss. Anyway, clutch is back to its slippery self and l'm nonplussed, as usual. Should l put the plate back in? Any replies or opinions welcome.

hello @Drity Garage Guy. I am not so good at english so that's why i'm writing you. i have a gen 2 busa (2008) and i think i have an issue with the clutch slipper. when i clutch in the first gear and then i'm releasing the clutch i hear a tapping noise right before the bike starts to move or when i decelerate. when i keep a constant speed and pretty low rpms the bikes does not have a smooth riding.The clutch don't slips at all, just this tap noise and non-smoothines in low rpms. Is this could be the clutch slipper problem? i already bought the clutch slipper, should i order something else? thanks for helping in advanace. By the way, this channel it's very helping!

Would be interesting to know what's the problem with a slipper clutch and why would the get rid of it....?, it just doesn't make any sense bc it was designed there for a reason. I wanna see them downshift real fast from let's say 5th to 2nd and dump the clutch lever without the slipper clutch 😁

Don't it make you realise just what a (genius) Del is.

Thanks

I can't get over why anyone would want to 'modify' the slipper mechanism in the first place, only to end up with it barely working or essentially disabled. Suzuki likely spent billions of yen in R&D to develop that clutch, with loads of engineering guys using serious computer power and experience, to design and test it until it was as good as they could make it for that application. Then some yahoo thinks he knows better "Hey, I can fix it by adding this spacer." instead of actually fixing the 'fault' by replacing a worn-out part. It's unreal. Why would you do that? I'm all for backyard tinkering, but when it makes a bike or car potentially dangerous on the road, sorry that's a no-no. We've gone from having a slipper clutch that you don't notice working 99% of the time, to a modded clutch that locks up the back wheel on the first fast corner you throw the bike into. The staggering thing is that there are crazy people out there that don't recognise the danger in modifying these parts in this way and instead think that this is a 'better' situation to be in. It's mental. I'm no stranger to modifying engines, hell, I've gone completely batshit on A-series motors just for laughs, but those were for racing applications and not intended for road use in any way. I suppose it comes down to what people consider to be an 'acceptable standard'. You could throw on a load of drag-racing parts in the quest for the ultimate road monster of a bike, but there's this cognitive dissonance that pops up when pointed out that you've now ended up with a bike that's completely unrideable on the road because it's too dangerous. Alternatively, you could replace the worn-out part and end up with the bike performing as it should and enjoy it for years to come without that lingering danger that it's going to try to randomly spit you off mid-corner into a lamppost. There's this difference between a genuine manufacturer fault and a fault that's been created by user error to 'fix' a problem that sub-standard mechanics like Delboy don't comprehend. It's like how Matt mentions in other video's, it's all part of a system that's intended to work in a particular way from twist-grip to back tyre. This 'fix' upsets that entire system in ways that Delboy etc. don't consider or even understand, which is in itself dangerous even before his indoctrinated followers lap it up and wrap themselves around a tree in their delusion that he's a good mechanic. A good mechanic would stop, reassess and investigate. Delboy doesn't, he just deletes comments whether they're practical advice or anything other than praise. As always, cheers for the thorough explanation on how this clutch works Matt, mind-expanding stuff indeed.👍

Fyi Yammie Noob is apparently turbo modding his busa so that's something to watch out for.

So cascading faults along the clutch mechanism, gets my vote... 😂😂😂

This is kind of silly question but I have had it a long time. When taking of from a stop and riding normally the clutch slips in one way, but is it/would it be beneficial for it to slip in other direction also sometimes when backtorgue is applied? I mean for longevity and stuff like that, idk why but I'm just really intrested what happens in the really small scale when the clutch is slipping. Thanks for these videos, I always learn some small details from these😁

Why don't people just order new parts that have been worn? I'm sure Suzuki spent millions in R&D to have it function the way it does.

Was wondering what the "F" back talk was, but then I had to put my thinking/listening hat on and "got-it!"

My eyes.. that exposure.

Hi if you have time could you answer me on this question I would like to know is worth fitting a slipper clutch to a Zx9r 1999 track bike and do you have any thoughts ie no don’t do or fit new internals to standard say ebc

Slip/grip clutch slipping? Weld out the grip. That'll fix the slip, eh.

Dells clutch mod jobby it moved by 8 thou that is two human hairs in width after the mod its down to one hair fookin nearly fell off me chair Dude

Hmm, so if Wheel speed > Engine speed then the spring tension in the clutch pack eases off slightly? If the springs degrade and all the while the clutch pack shrinks slightly do the weaker springs have less "stuff" to push back - one offsets the other? And then does it follow if you swap out your clutch pack you should also fit new springs? 🤔

I have a busa with stock clutch and high mileage, just need to pull apart. Can’t really send it to you, but I’m sure we could come up with a way to see it in a video chat or something

What about using stainless bolts for the slave cylinder support?

So what you're saying is, as in everything in life, it's all about the harmonic convergence...:-)

When at around 6 mins you say there is a preload, is that the reason why if you have the bike on a center stand in first gear with the clutch lever pulled, the rear wheel turns with some force, but it won't turn when on the ground? (I have just replaced my stock clutch on a old V Strom 1000 with the SV 1000 one to give it a slipper clutch so I find this topic very interesting although a bit complicated.)

Welding up your slip clutch is just asking for it to explode

So basically the slipper prevents back wheel lock up under high rev aggressive down shifting/ engine breaking?

How easy is it to get reaplacment springs?

Did Shed Life delete his account again?

This appears to work like a sprag clutch.

My is not slipping. Thats the problem at a stop its not slipping and jerking

It is also worth pointing out that, if the clutch was gripping under normal drive because of the ramping effect, then welding it up would mean that the clutch would NEVER grip because the ramping motion can no longer take place. You've got the whole machanism the WRONG WAY ROUND my friend... you're welcome!

Why does it need any mods, its fast as fuck

What does the 18 mean on the rivets?

Back torque directly proportional to slip, simply more back torque more slip?

Is this only on the sv1000? Or the 650 as well?

So basically the answer is "don't be an idiot, replace the worn parts". Or buy a high performance clutch kit, yeah I know, they are too cheap to buy them.

Next time please switch the light on xD

F**k turn the big light on!

👍 Great explanation The 🔔end is a snake oil salesman with limited mechanical knowledge and has the ability to bullshit his followers, who then go to his affiliate links and spend money on shit they don't need.

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Looking forward to seeing the difference between the two setups (Busa v SV). Hopefully someone here has one lying around. Also, I don't know if this popped up on your radar Matt, but it seems like something that would be of interest to you: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b61xiNJpyru8lYk.html

I dont understand why ppl think they no better than the manufacturer of the part suzuki don't just get somthing and go yep that will do they no it will.last years then muppets like del come along and start welding stuff when he could have saved himself hassle and gor a new part and problem solved lop

Backtalk... That's what my ex wife did....

Why use 10 words when you can waffle on with 100. Well meant & there's some good info but it's just painful to watch.