+stew zebra Big Thanks Stew - working to shoot the final video on the axe, finished handle, and how it chops...stay tuned :)

Good question. I don't think there is a single answer and depends on the combination of steel your using and how you temper. I've noticed many blacksmiths use a combination of steels for their axe - mild steel for their axe head and then forge weld a small piece of high carbon steel on the front to form the blade edge. They end up with a flexible malleable steel body that is less brittle and forgiving and a very sharp hardened edge that stays sharp longer (the best of both worlds). For those designs, it's not even possible to harden the mild steel head given it's low carbon content. Alternatively, for my axe, I happened to use 5160 spring steel throughout, and spring steel has a higher carbon content that can be hardened. So, I decided to harden just the edge portion where needed ensuring the body remained flexible and malleable. Hope this helps

Thank you!

+Project of the day Thank you !! How's your Wood Kiln coming? Can't wait to see it....

Have unfortunately not had time to do anything with my kiln. But I have a little vacation in two weeks, and the idea is to build on it then.

It's sad when work gets in the way of fun :))

I hear ya that show is crack ! Good luck mowing

+ppotty1 - Thanks my friend - after all the work - I'm a bit afraid to do more and screw it up :-) I guess I'll work on the handle for now and then decide - I can't imagine what you felt like when making the Katana......

What I mean is Rick, if you dip the axe head in ferric chloride or even vinegar the spring steel will etch darker than the mild and show the contrast on the weld lines in can look really nice its only a shallow surface etch and you can remove it with some 600 grit in no time if you dont like it, Give it a go it might surprise you.

+ppotty1 - Ahhhh - I was thinking you meant etching a dragon into the side of the axe like you did - I'm not that good .... OK I'll give it a try....

Thanks Windsor - I let it air cool.

@@RickRabjohn Its hardening does not drop after cooling in air?

Thanks Nani - if your heat treating steel that requires an oil quench, than using motor oil is a viable option; however, I've tried to stay away from motor oil as I worry about the effect the fumes & smoke can have on my health. As a result, I use cooking oils like vegetable or peanut oil. Hope that helps...Booyah!

It's called Tempering. Quenching makes a lot of stress and hardness, making the steel brittle. When you temper it, it slightly softens it so it isn't too brittle

@@harvesterbladeco i think when tempered it again it's hardness decrease for this reason it's brittleness decrease

@@forfun8560 That's what I said. Glass is super hard, but super brittle as a result. It's all about the balance of hardness for your task.

@@harvesterbladeco Instead of reheating to reduce its brittleness, I prefer to balance by heating as much as the first time.

It was my first Viking axe, and if work didn't get in the way, I would love to make more. Hopefully someday. Thanks for watching and commenting.

Oh work I remember that - Damn oil industry downturn layoffs....

Thanks TD, I used mild steel for the outside wrap. For the blade edge that is sandwiched between and forge welded to the mild steel, I used 5160 spring steel (but you can use any high carbon steel for the edge - 1095. 1084, W2, 80CRV2, etc..)

Outstanding Work! @@RickRabjohn

Synchromesh oil

I use cooking oil - canola

Veg oil. Booyah!

I find the file tests can be misleading and drives many of us to unnecessary second or third quenches. As long as you heated the hatchet's edge to a non-magnetic state (easily tested with a magnet) and oil quenched, your edge should be very hard and brittle. Yes, always good to temper in the oven to prevent the edge from breaking. This does assume the steel in your hatchet's edge is made of a high carbon steel (e.g., 5160 spring steel, 1075, 1084, etc..). If it's made of simple mild steel, it obviously will never harden. You can just focus on the edge itself, but I would still temper in the oven. Hope that helps..Booyah!

Thank you for your clear explanation... To be sincere I did not check with the magnet and I based only on the color. It was my first time quenching something and I was a little nervous. I think I will retry with a magnet near me this time and only for an inch above the edge. Then oven as you suggested! 🤞The problem is that I have no idea of the steel used in it. It might be mild steel...

@@MarcoJetti can explain me what's magnet check?

What type of oil is this

Vegtable or canola oils are fine to use with oil quence steels. Hope that helps.

I use Vegetable or Peanut oil - Booyah!

Rick Rabjohn tng u sir

I use vegetable or peanut oil to quench my blades. I don't use water as water typically creates cracks in the steel. Thanks for checking it out Julio and happy holidays!

I use vegetable or peanut oil to quench my blades. I don't use water as water typically creates cracks in the steel. Thanks for checking it out Julio and happy holidays!

Rick Rabjohn which one more be harder, that is water or oil?? In my country all most blacksmith will use water to queching, come visit my land, java paradise island

While I don't know much about your local practice, all I can share is what I know - different steels have different quench mediums. For example, 5160, 1084 or 1095 high carbon steels are oil quench steels. If water is used to quench, cracks in the steel will occur. A2 and D2 steels are air-hardened steels where you simply let the steel air cool. For W1 or W2 tool steels you can use either water or oil to harden. So, which quench to use depends on the type of steel to achieve maximum hardness. I hope that helps

Rick Rabjohn thanks, in my countri alot smith use leaf spring and bearing is that hight carbon or not?