Thanks for adding your input

Darin, I appreciate your comments, thank you.

So that’s for sure both ground wires?

@@ronnieturk9905 yep, just fixed mine... other videos showed linking both of those pins... I did the drill through method... so drilled through old connector. Soldered wires to pins directly, then spliced 2 wires to original ground wire a few inches back. Worked great..

thanks I appreciate your comments. Duane

Thanks for your comments

thanks for your comments

Now that is a great observation and explanation (to someone who understands those principles.) You should make a video explaining that in simpler terms. You would do everyone a great service

Car manufacturer says at least 1 minute

I didn't do this the first time I disconnected as forgot there was even an airbag in seat... nothing happened, but did when putting it back in just because I didn't want to risk it...

the wiring on the replacement part was thicker gauge, so if it took 6 years for the thinner gauged wiring to finally corrode and short then the single thicker gauged wire should the rest of that vehicles life. You're welcome

So the second wire goes to where? Goes spliced to the same harness ground????

@@chalinoahuesoduro5566 goes to the one that shorted out originally. So now you have 2 grounds from the lead that burned..

@nightlifephantom you're correct, I was waiting to see if anyone else caught that

This is absolutely correct. I was looking to see if this comment was here first before I added it. This fix will just result in another burned out ground. The second wire should be attached to ground either by connecting to the first ground wire or another spot that is grounded.

Hello Robert, thanks for your comments. Yes I was gone for awhile. I posted a video about it. You can fine it here on youtube, it's titled. "personal update". I've tried to keep everyone updated as well.

Thank you for taking the time and relying! God Bless you and your family!!!!

Yup, that’s what I would of done.

@@airratchetjockey7605 Duane mentioned that the plastic surrounding the female pin had melted and there would be insufficient support for the pin, ie, when putting plug back in, the female terminal may miss its intended route, and possibly slide in next to, rather than onto the male pin. That would mean dejavu with more resistance, more corrosion and more burning at the plug. That was my understanding anyway.

Bob Hudson what we are talking about is de-pinning the new connector and then moving each good wire over from the old connector to the new connector with the exception of the damaged terminal.

@@airratchetjockey7605 Ahhaaa. Now understand. Would have been easier your way. Thanks for clarifying.

That what would've done too just swap them all but the burnt pin that way no confusion if it ever needs to be tested again

Most likely there a break in the element Test the heater element with a muilty meter for resistance

I have a 2007 Lincoln navigator that does the exact same thing! I also need advice!

I actually have 2015 Navigator and same issues hopping relay or something did you solve your issues?

Great question. I would imagine most would say de-pinning is the best, but if not done correctly it can cause problems. So, I would say it depends on the skill level of the person doing it. if they are skilled then yes de-pinning. but is a DIYer I would say splicing. Just my experienced opinion

it is possible that a reprogram is needed, but it may just need a recalibration that any good shop could do.

@@realfixesrealfast thx for replying, I will try and take to a shop. Hopefully easy fix. Thx again

the burning smell and the sporadic working point to a poor connection not the module double check all of that

@@realfixesrealfast I understand what you're saying, but not quite sure how it could be a poor connection given that the harness snaps into the module. What else is there anything to check besides just unplugging/plugging the harness?

@@bdbull the click you hear is the plastic pieces fitting together. I'm talking about the actual pin connectors in the harness connector. Sometimes they don't fit tight, or they have corrosion on them..

@@realfixesrealfast I'll have to check the connectors again. The harness was brand new and I don't remember seeing any corrosion on the male pin from the module, but I'll check them again when I get a chance.

yes

If you replaced the switch and you do have 12 volts going to the switch, it can only be either a faulty connection or a bad motor. The seat positions have motors that drive them. Unfortunately they are hard to get to. You will need to remove the seat, turn it over to access the motors. To do this you will have to disconnect all the connectors. Then get a wire diagram so you know which wires control which motor, then supply your own power and ground and see if the motors work. If the do work, your problem is in the wiring. If they don't work, then the motor itself is bad. Good luck

T55

Thanks!

they are two different circuits. The lights on the dash tell you the switch is giving the command but no real heat means that circuit is not responding.

@@strokewarrior5762 yes but if I have no brunt wires what do I fix to make it work ?

Kevin, it is something you CAN do if you want to. But I understand not being comfortable with it. Give it a try, follow the lead in the video, you can save a lot of money

It worked , ... It took a little time to get the melted wire lock to slide out but when I got it undone it took two minutes to swap the wires out from the old housing to the new one.

I don't see why it wouldn't work. Just be sure all connections are strong and tight

Hello Eric, thanks for you comments. I'll add them to the comment section so others will be aware

Did you end up getting yours off? If so, can ya tell me how please! I can't get mine to budge.

@cassidydimick9522 I muscled the hell out of it. I also used a pick and a flat head. Also.. I didn't take off the seat. All I did was shoved a copper wire into the burnt portion of the connector and plugged the connector back in. Then I drilled a tiny pilot hole under the carpet into the metal floor board, used a self tapper screw and a lock nut to put the other end of the copper wire to ground it to the body. Now heated and ac seats work.

@@nicetomeetme5150 awesome, I'm gonna keep muscling then, I just stabbed myself with my pick, I'm so mad at Ford right now! I'm going to try your fix, sounds like my kind of shortcut! Thanks for getting back to me!

@@cassidydimick9522 keep me posted if anything. I can send pics or whatever. I tough to get answers online lol

@@nicetomeetme5150 finally got the sucker off, but it's not just that one that's melted, the one next to it started to melt as well, but not as bad. You think your fix will still work?

Being at home I am assuming that the guy that was helping Dywan was family and he was trying to safely save him some money. Looking at the module and the connector as I'm sure Dywane did, it looked as if the pin in the module had little to no damage to it other than a little discoloration but looking at the damage to the connector it appears the female pin which has less surface area than the Male pin to dissipate heat, took the brunt of heat/damage which was obvious by how burt the connector was and as the module had no plastic melted or burn damage. Compared to the cost of a module to a $20.00 connector after assessing the damage, I think I would of went that route too !

@@billyr9840 I totally disagree if it was hot enough to even discolor the plastic around the male pin it should of been replaced , I have seen this many many times it is a week spot in the system mark my words one of these days this will burn again .. I respect RFRF and have even looked to his videos for guidance on a few things and greatly appreciate him working hard to do KZfaq videos and work on cars saving the customer money is fixing the car right the first time !!!!

Mike, I agree with your thinking and Dywane probably does too for a paying customer. You are absolutly correct but under the circumstances. Maybe the customer ( family member/neighbor ect ) did not have the financial resources to do the repair right and needed the car to get to and from school/work ect. Being the nice guy Dywane is he probably was just trying to help him out. After assessing the damages and under those circumstances and even if it was my own car I would of gone that route. By the amount of damage to that male pin I believe it will last many years to come if not the life of the vehicle. In hindsight he could of went the extra mile and de-pined the Male pin and replaced it with a new one. In hindsight maybe that should of been made clear to his KZfaq audiance if this is the case I am suggesting. Take Care!

hey.....if I was still at the dealer I would just change out the module....Dwyane called it right call....the resistance was in the pin get with the program dude!

@@mechanicmike2858 i think you might over missed the point of what the video was about maybe watch it again.