My biggest fear is that heat exchanger going. I just bypassed it all together but I think I will look to eliminating those hoses as well. Enjoy your videos and your tunes. Thank you for taking the time to make these videos. Adrian (with the 05 now with a full manual VB )

Nice tutorial. I did my delete when I had the engine out for a rebuild so it was a lot easier to access it and see where best to route things. The only thing I did different from you is I kept the hardpipe that goes under the exhaust manifold and just brazed the y-part shut where it splits to go to the trans exchanger. I replaced that short section coming off the water pump with a new silicone hose and I felt that was a much neater looking install than having another loose hose flapping around in there. I also liked the fact that it is still solidly mounted out of the way under the manifold and won't melt from accidentally coming into contact with the exhaust. Had the same issue with finding the right plug for that hole on the driver side, IIRC I think I eventually figured out a metric thread bolt was a perfect fit for that and used a copper sealing washer under the head. Also wanted to say Rob you did a great job on my tunes and I'm very happy with my MM3 setup.

Love the cost effective methods on this channel. Sorry your heat exch. failed & the tranny paid the price... That said, if you're looking to spend a little $, Fleece (& I'm sure other companies) makes a coolant bypass kit. I opted for Fleece & I'm beyond happy with it. Install is a p.i.t.a. unfortunately (took me multiple days), but so is paying for a new trans/rebuild. The kit fixes ~4 known "weak points" in the 5.9: bypasses the trans heat exchanger on the side of the block (pretty apparent from this vid why you'd want that gone), replaces the freeze plug at the back of the block (which is known to blow out), deletes the majority of the hard piping that was scrapped in this video (known to leak), & regulates coolant jacket temps for cylinders 5 & 6 much better (cylinders 5 & 6 get the coolant last, after it's been cooked by the other 4). The kit includes a single hard pipe for the replacement of all those pipe-to-hose-to-pipe-to-hose crap, a plug for the barb on the driver side of the block, a spacer with a -10AN fitting that goes between your t-stat housing & the head, & lastly an additional t-stat housed in a nice bracket that replaces that freeze plug at the back of the block (that's the *hardest part of the install as the best method of removing it is a long pry bar & hammer coming up from underneath the truck & finessing it above the transmission, then you gotta snake back there & install that new t-stat housing). As painful as it all was, I'd still do it all over again.

Great video!! I have this on my "to do" list. My exchanger has been deleted for a few years but all the coolant lines are still intact. Having them gone is one less thing to fail on a trip.

Great video. Thank you.

I was thinking of deleting this completely for heater core as I installed coolant bypass wondering if piping to the heatercore would help to keep truck cooler as return Enders top side of motor Or deleting it all together and plugging the 90

Great video. I still luv the tunes you set up for me, works great! It looks like you have added an exhaust brake. What brand did you go with and are you happy with it? Thanks again, Jim from San Diego

Would it be the same process on a 2006 Cummins 5.9?

I guess I lucky mine came from factory with a 6 speed manual .

The whole purpose of for this is to delete metal pipes that fail w corrosion, right? Any change w engine temp , gets when towing.thanks

Ur shitting me i could have just plugged that i broke that little pipe on a road trip it ended up cracking i had to go junk yard to junk yard looking for 1 and i coulda just deleted it my heat exchanger is already deleted but man that upsets me $100 im never getting back

Hello, I'm trying to contact you, how do I make the connection?

Is transmission fluid being too cold an issue?

Do you have a parts list? I want to do mine soon because my crossover pipe from the exchanger is so corroded. I’m getting a little drip from where the the pipe from the t stat housing y’s into the crossover pipe ( three inch long rubber hose)

I guess the big question is do you have any error codes on the dash? That’s my only fear on my 2005 Cummings.

You're running without the heat exchanger? How does transmission temperature handle while daily driving or towing?

Do you still do mm3 tuning? If so how can I contact you?