One other thing to check would be the "dogbone/dumbbell" in the back of the block behind the rear cover. That can bleed pressure off into the crank case. Otherwise the only other time we have had an issue with low oil pressure at the OEM location, it was caused by a bad set of cam bearings that bled oil pressure off and would eventually cause main bearing wear. (LS feeds the cam bearings and then the mains)

Hey Benny, might be worth investigating the barbell in the back of the block behind the rear cover.

Benny everybody suggests the barbell in the rear of the block BUT LS motors also can get lifter score in the lifter bore which also causes low oil pressure either way mate i think the motor might be coming out .Later LS engines i believe have a small siv filter in the block at the oil light switch have you put a manual gauge on the oil galley on the side of the block if ita good pressure there then there is a blockage in the galley leading to the oil pan ports and the barbell hope this helps cheers glenn

Love the Gian banter, keep it coming lads.

I have had an engine die from that style of remote filter housing, the stud the filter mounts to almost bottomed out on the housing and reduced the flow. the thread in style an fittings can also cause a restriction. this could also be a reason for the relief valve flogging out as the restriction is causing an over pressure situation on the pump side of the filter

Everyone else is saying about the dogbone/ barbell. Which I said in the last video about this, If it is Gen III or IV engine. They are a typical issue. The o-ring craps out and causes a interal pressure drop. Or the stock plastic one is just worn out. That would be the next step in chasing this problem. Also check the hoses for your oil fliter relocation kit. I have see them internally collpase before after they heat up.

2 things I love, LS engines with oil pressure, & Johnny Bravo!

The Melling M295HV model oil pump is the way to go. It has 18% more flow and it fixed all my problems. The standard pumps were all rubbish from the factory. *** the genuine Melling M295HV pump should also come with an optional stronger bypass spring to give a further 10% pressure.

Thanks for showing even good mechanics get stuck with annoying problems. Also chasing pressure issues on a car...

4:42 am in the Uk Perfect timing

That pickup went into the pump far too easy! Definitely needed the thicker o-ring, also a little trick for next time, get the balancer seated back in the front main before doing the timing cover up so it centres the cover, can avoid a front main leak. As others have said also, barbell behind the rear main seal plate is another possibility, cam bearings or the cam thrust plate behind the cam pulley, I’d still be fitting the thicker o-ring into the pump. Worst case even go back to a single row chain to get rid of the spacers between pump and block, good luck Benny!

youll get it sorted benny!

had a similer thing on a fresh built ls1 and needed to use that the thicker oring that looks way to big but it did go in and get back good oil pressure

Dumbell? The o ring on that can fail. Creates an internal oil leak.

Hi Benny from St. Louis Mo. USA

Please start the next video with “welcome to Benny’s low oil pressure custom works”

Hell yea brother. I'm in North Carolina USA about 2 hours from Harrels dyno. I am working on my first Ls3 swap. In a 03' Ford Crown vic police interceptor. Not my first engine tho. Mt first Ls. It's going to be a Ls3/6L80. I am picking up a 6L80 tomorrow. Thursday here lol. Once you find the problem with the oil pressure I will know what to look for if it happens to me.

Will also add the barbell needs a look. Also cam retainer plate in the front and rear main on the back has a similar dog one seal that could bleed oil.

I'd check the clearance between pickup & pan. Being custom it could be a bit tight, and maybe at some point the pickup tube got a bit bent. I'd also check the cam retainer plate, that's another somewhat common item. It's o-ring gets flat or torn and dumps a lot of oil.

Just bought that exact same balancer kit 😂 really good for getting it off and perfect for big block chev but wrong thread for JZ’s 👎

Barbell, cam retainer plate, cam bearings (lol), DOD delete leaking (roiller bearing needles work sick) Or we could sell everything and go play golf and drink beers

Camshaft front retainer plate? Has the seal failed in this? This can cause low oil pressure, as it dumps the oil behind the timing cover. So doesnt leak externally, but internally. Buy a replacement plate with a new seal.

The two pumps that were installed 10295, and M295 are apples to apples regarding displacement, the thing that needs to be kept in mind is that an oil pump does not make pressure, it sends a flow of oil into a set of clearances, the resistance to that flow through those clearances is what produces pressure. Bearing clearances are mentioned but no specific data given, this looks to be an aluminum block which will grow in multiples compared to a cast iron block, this growth will increase the bearing clearances causing lower idle pressures compared to the same clearances in a cast iron block. I also noticed a remote filter, remote filters, and oil cooler put an additional demand on the oiling system, more area to fill with oil flow to create pressure. I would make sure that the oil pump adapters for the double roller timing set are dead flat, and replace the cam thrust plate if a new one was not installed during the build. I would also install a higher volume pump, 10355 from what I have seen in the video. Also keep in mind that the starter motor does not spin the engine fast enough to prime the pump, 130ish RPM, and no crankcase pressure to force the oil into the pickup tube, pour some clean oil in the pump prior to install and then fire it up. Also the area that shows wear is the sacrificial ring on the oil pump which will by design show some wear. no need to disassemble the pump for shimming, as the crank snout runout spec is very tight.

Dont trust the way if just rotating the motor to center the pump. I did that and checked clearance with a feeler gauge and it wasnt centered. Smedding performance has a great video of how to measure the pumps clearance

Have you looked at the backplate that blocks the back oil galleries is not bleeding oil & are you sure the oil pickup pipe is clean as I had one that got crap pass the pickup screen & got jammed in the bend that being rear sump low. Only other thing I can think of is cam bearings clearance Benny or mains & big ends have too much clearance.

Check the barbell as everyone else has said but it might be worth you blocking the galleries under the valley cover. If that isn’t perfect it bleeds internally too. Good luck 🤞🏽

higher then normal bearing clearances will allow for lower then normal oil pressure.

What a bummer...

Before putting the bolt in that retains the spring try adding a washer on top of the spring to help increase the oil pressure

Reminds me of when I first swapped a Honda K series in my race car then spent 6 weeks trying to make the cooling system work. Friggin nightmare, wouldn't even idle without boiling over. Now it comes off track cooler than it was idling in grid. It'll be worth it once you get it sorted

Cam retainer plate can create internal oil leak and drop pressure Barbell can bypass and cause the same Was this motor a dod? How are the ports blocked, are they plugged or just relying on the valley plate which could leak past the o rings Cam bearings? Lots of things to investigate

Brutal car things. I wanna be an LS ologist

Johnny Bravo for the win

The fact you have reasonable oil pressure at idle but it tops out at 40 psi suggests there's an issue with the oil pump relief valve spring. Normally if you have excessive internal oil leakage, ie bearings, it gets better with more rpm. Another thing to consider is a bad pump that has too much internal bypass as the pressure rises.

I'm going through something similar with my 4G63. I've seen low oil pressure readings on my gauges, but the car seems fine. If I get too worried, I'll pull the bearings and check clearances like you suggested you might do, but it's still odd. The suspicion on my end might be just the pressure sensor, but for you, I have no idea. I hope you figure it out and share it with us all.

Cam cover o ring? Rear plunger?

That's a bummer on the engine Benny :( Is the oil pickup standard LS size? So the cup/at at the bottom of the tube is properly sized so the pump can draw oil freely? If not the input side then something either in the oil gallery block offs or cam/mains/rods bearing clearance is too large. Either way it's an engine out job and running the engine at all probably isn't the best idea as if it's the cam bearing bleeding pressure then that would mean less oil getting to the mains n rods so could cause wear there.

If you run an LS and want it to last, get a Scavenge Dry sump Kit. No need to worry about weak internal pumps or low oil pressure.

Have you had the valley cover off at any stage? if Orings in the valley cover go walkies during a cam job, they make oil pressure, but never hit relief pressure.

cam retaining plate has a seal on it from memory could be that or dumbbell

Could be cam bearings otherwise try turning it on and off again? 😅

I have a 09 ctsv I see max oil pressure when hot at 48 psi low at 23 psi been flogging it this way for well over 2 years no issue.what I understand it's a main bearing issue.i run vr1 20 50w. That being said for drifting a baffled pan and an accusump is a minimum.dry sump is optimal being not a priority main setup.

As others have said, text, barbell and cam plate seal

a cam bearing might have half walked itself out

you get a message in every single video. ding!

What’s the gold hex 10mm socket you use in the ryobi?

AusStar, holy shit... That's some OLD shit!

Hey Benny, would you know if valvoline is planning on bringing VR1 down to Oz?

Sandwich plate for the filter relocation kit? Does it have an oil cooler that may have collapsed or have damage?

I'd be happy for 30psi at idle on my 7M-GTE 🙂

The original Scoobie Doo and Wacky Racers were my gig, but then I'm a bit older than your average viewer Good luck with fault finding, hopefully it's something simple, and cheap

Back in Good Old Dayz ( late 90's - Early 2000's ) if car had Low Oil Pressure to fix it was, Drain the oil and take out oil filter, put in new oil and oil filter and pour in Engine Oil Flush ( any brand ) amd let the car run for 15 mins. Then drain the oil and take oil filter out. Put in new oil and filter and let in run for 15 mins then drain put in new oil and filter and finally change the spark plugs. Now Dayz things are done differently.

Cam bearings?

Im with Gian man. Bring back Johnny Bravo, and little Elvis. 🤟

Gian asking all my questions….. what’s that for? What’s that do? Why are you doing that? What’s you favourite colour?

I’m sure u have covered it before but I’m chasing a new radiator for my bf falcon any u would recommend?

👍

Time for an rb swap Yes they’re old Yes they’re flogged No they don’t have comp in cyl 6 Still beats an ls 😂

Id prob throw the manual gauge on a different location see if its the same.

Sounds like you need new camshaft bearings. 😢

Oil pump gear-to-case clearance?

Battle of the planets, for me I also thought Power Rangers was a touch camp.

Have you changed out the oil pressure switch? Mates ss 5.7 gen 3 was having the same issue and it fixed the problem

Bummer Hope you can work it out it’s bound to be something simple but annoying Thought bubble! (One more reason to use a Barra ?) since you the Barra whisper 😃

Biker mice from mars, Street sharks, Feral TV

Dud oil pressure sender?

I think it’s time to just put a 13b in it.

LS engines just dont like being sideways, the best solution is a cheap drysump system

Remove gm LS. Sell it. Buy a 345 Hemi eagle. Install it. No more problem 👍🤘👍

That oil pan is too shallow. Make sure you use the lowest volume pump as it will suck that oil pan dry in a sec. You will have the same problem 100% again.

2:52 - Is there enough crush/interference on that o-ring? Seemed to be a dick-in-a-bucket scenario.

Going dry sump from the start would have saved you an engine, hours of headache and head scratching for roughly the same cost.

The LS identifies as a barra 😂

It's 2J time, Benny.

Oil pressure issues? The cheap and simple solution is to just 2JZ swap it...

Dry sump bro do it just do it you've got like $10k just lying around right?

Moist

I mean yeah, wearing gloves is a pain, but mate your gonna wish you'd worn gloves every day for the rest of your life when the contact dermatitis comes in so hard that you can't even fuel up your own car without the fumes making your hands crack and bleeding...