I think you should use two wrenches when removing a plumbing item, i.e. valves, water regulator etc. One to hold the item and one to remove the nut. That way you won't turn or break the pipe further down the line while you remove the item, using two wrenches will also give you more leverage when replacing the item and it will keep the replacement part in the right orientation when replacing the item. Did you try adjusting the pressure before replacing the water pressure regulator? Turning the adjusting screw could have saved you time, money and effort. Another suggestion is to use a wrench with a longer handle also for more leverage.

Just got a quote for of $650 to replace the pressure valve. You have me the confidence to attempt this with my sons muscles

You can install in any direction; however, the two caps below the bell houseing (at the top in your finished "repair") is a strainer and the other is a main drain. You could have loosened the drain cap to drain the line. It is much easier to clean the strainer when its mounted in the down postion. You could have merely rebuilt the PRV with a kit ( new spring, gaskets, strainer and washers) and left the unit in place. Good on ya for doing it yourself!

A video with too much stress work. But you take it easy and make it fun. You could be raised up in the pretty good environment so you're so confident and positive! I admire you.

As a fellow plumber in the Apprenticeship program,Good Job.

You posted this just at the right time because I just discovered I need to replace mine.

Thank you for the very informative step by step video! I’m sure you have found some of the other comments helpful (possible adjustments, use two wrenches, etc). Still exactly the video I was looking for. Thank you for keeping it simple!

Wow! You’re so amazing and inspirational. I’ve had my water pressure checked because I have stronger water pressure than I need and the good news is, I’m safe. I learned when you live at the bottom of a hill, the water pressure increases as the water flows down the street.

You saved me alot of heartache. I'll post again after I test and change.I definitely like the straight to the point video. 👍

This was a pleasant and refreshing video. I certainly have a better understanding of a PRV.

Using 2 wrenches, backup wrench, both pointing opposite ways helps with the leverage to screw out the valve. Great video!

I swear your bravery is goals. ❤️

Good video! Now to change mine out. Thanks for this video 👊

The only thing that I can add, make sure to support that pipe on the right. You don’t want to twist and torque on one side and let that soldered copper pipe take the torsion. Otherwise, you saved yourself $500 to $800. Good video!!

Thank you, I just replaced mine, this video helped alot. I used 2 wrenches like the comments suggested but all in all great video. Thank you!

Thank you 🙏. Will do it this week.

I had a laugh the way you man handled that stubborn PRV. Very determined to get the job done, show no mercy, never give up. I think I'll subscribe, can't wait to see what you'll tackle next 😉

Thanks for your video. I'm a DIYer by nature, but never tried soldering copper water lines. I got quotes of $425-$675. Didn't even notice until I watched your video that the valve is threaded, not soldered right on. So figured I could give it a try. The valve I bought looks the same as yours but when I got it home I saw they are made differently. So the existing threaded copper connector would not work. But for anyone else watching and reading and wanting to try yourself, I found a really easy solution. Home Depot sells brass Sharkbite connectors that push onto the copper line and have male threads on the other end. I bought a copper tube cutter for $15, cut the line on both sides so the old valve came completely off. I had a regular Sharkbite (about 3" long) on the IN side, pushed it onto the copper line. I got another 3/4" Sharkbite male slip adapter- which is about 6". The longer slip version gives you several inches of flexibility inside. I threaded onto the valve on the OUT side and pushed onto copper line until the other IN side lined up, then tightened the large nut. There was a very little leak at first but just had to tighten all the connections more than I thought. The great thing is Sharkbites can be taken off if needed.

Thank you that was just the info I needed.

Need to put a wrench on the copper fitting to the right of the PR valve when you try to remove it. It will come off easier, and you won't run the risk of damaging the copper pipes on the right side of the PR valve. Great video!

I’m about to attempt this too so thanks for the vid! Good job!

Easy Peasy! Thanks for your video.

You did great. love your spirit.

Thank you, I really like your work

My house has the same situation. The water hose outside of my house shows ~90 psi, whereas my hot water tank pipe (behind the water pressure reduction valve) has much lower. I used the outside water hose to test the water pressure while adjusting the in-door water pressure reduction valve, the pressure gauge shows no difference. (I was confused) Now I understand. Thanks for this shared video.

Great video! You gave me the confidence to go ahead with a project that's been waiting for me to start for months. I like to DIY, but am occasionally dyslexic and freeze up on 'righty-tighty'. 😅😅Showing the direction you go on all the nuts is very helpful. I also can sympathize with your level of swearing-I can't complete anything without a few blue streaks here and there. Keep up the good work! *Also, I think it's fine you changed out the whole thing, rebuilding it is ridiculous: most people never change this thing until it's rusted out and failing.

Great information

Thank you so much for this video!

This lady is awesome. ❤

Nice job.

I love your channel!

Good job!

Nice repair I like it

You are amazing!! What else can I say? 👌👌👌👌 Nice work.

That's exactly what she needs to do. Use another pipe wrench for leverage, she was lucky that didn't twist the pipe and caused more repairs

Thank you!!

I love how she does this, I swear she sounds like me! 😂 I feel ya girl, I'm going to have to do the exact same thing, thank you for this!❤

You just earned yourself a Sub!!! Great job! I was just quoted $1000 to install one of these things. Im pretty sure I can't install one though.

I really cannot believe Matt didn't assist you...good job👍

Good job

Good job 👏👏👏

Great work 👏😅

Good job! I had one of these replaced and the plumber had to come BACK to replace it the next day since I was getting a sound from my pipes that sounded like a ships horn sound. Hopefully it works now! But I was impressed with your work! Congratulations!

Thanks.. I was worried watched it. Several times , you helped me a ton ,, I knew it wasn’t that difficult but I hate soldering .an didn’t want to break it .

When you were twisting the old regulator, I felt like I was getting kicked in the nuts, I was wincing so hard.

Thanks for the video. I am going to have to do this as well. Mine in installed just sticking out of dry wall under the stairs in a closet though. I'll be cutting into the wall to replace it. I was curious how one would replace the shut off valve to the left of your regulator in your video. Mine free spins and never bottoms out (closes off the water flow) in any directions turned.

Thank you for this whole video! I have a few things I gotta fix around the house 😒 and until yesterday, I didn’t make any connection as to why. My pressure is at 140psi as well! And that additional pressure is gonna cause wear and tear on all the faucets and appliances(!) downstream. Initially, I thought I had to replace my Temperature & Pressure Relief (TPR) Valve on my water heater. But after some research, I realized it’s more likely my whole home pressure, which had caused leaks with my toilet fillers and other places, caused excessive hammering as I tried to turn on my rear outside hose bib and who knows what else. Given how close I am to the city’s main water supply, I will set my PRV a bit lower than comfortable (but still within the recommended 40-75 psi) so when I do notice a change, hopefully it alerts me to checking or replacing my PRV. Is that a good plan? Maybe? I could dispute my own point that by setting it lower, I could make it wear out faster😅 but I feel I’d rather take an extra clue of stuff failing than letting other things fail before a realize and remember what might’ve be the problem.

The wire is a ground to create a bond between the ground and the pipe at the street, to the pipe passing the preassure reducing valve.

Great job, but two things. Try not to wrench down the shutoff valve because it will destroy the washer. You can also turn the water off at the meter, but another topic. Secondly, always introduce water into the house SLOWLY. Otherwise, great video and explanations. An 8" monkey wrench along with your channel lock wrench is a great combo to use.

Thanks for sharing. That is what i have the pressure is too high .. and now its dripping a little from that screw on top .. that was pretty easy to change once that thing unscrewed .. does it matter if it hangs or be on the top that cone looking thing i was wondering .. ? Great Job

Hello, thank you for the video! May I please ask how to tell whether the garden hose is connected before the PRV or after? My value is around 120 but indoor looks fine. Thank you!

Great video! I think you have better skills than me!😢😊😊😊

That wire is part of the ground that is attach to your water pipes. The PRV has a rubber gasket in it so the bypass wire make a complete grounding connection.

One "trick" I use to loosen things that are as tight as yours is a steel pipe that fits over the end of the adjustable wrench. In your case you would need 2 pipes. Unless you could set one wrench handle against the wall, ceiling, or floor. I wish you could have taken the old one apart and taught us how that contraption works.

Doesn’t matter how the prv faces. It’s a spring on a diaphragm that only allows a certain amount of pressure by. You can tighten the bolt and put more pressure on the spring allowing less psi in, or loosen bolt relaxing tension on on the spring should allow more psi….

Wow that was a lot of torque u put on copper line! Hopefully it all worked out seems it did. I have to replace my 30+ year old u5b watts prv and redo all connectors. Got a quote for almost 1500 to also add to replace 2 gate valves with ball valves. Just robbery so will do myself.

you're a hoot!

Great job, but I recommend using two wrenches, one to twist the valve, and the other to hold the pipe to prevent it from twisting, which can cause welding to crack and leak elsewhere. I know lots of men that do not even try to learn how to use a wrench, while I do most of the repairs myself and save lots of money for my steaks and vacations!!!

Great video and thank you for posting the detailed installation procedure. It is somewhat scary for me dealing with the main plumbing because if I mess up, I have no water. My recommendation is to replace the gate valve for the main shut off with a ball valve as they last longer and easier to use. My gate valve was stuck and I did not know until I had to use it one day and had to resort to turning off the water at the meter. BTW, how old was the PRV that you replaced?

How much pressure can you give to those copper pipes before you end up breaking a fitting and then need to call a plumber? I had a plumber come and replace mine but I didn't know where to shut off the water main for starters. If you're going to hook it up to the hot water heater, wouldn't you have to drain the hot water heater in order to hook that pressure gauge up? Could you use thread pipe sealant instead of PTFE tape?

Wish my wife was like youuu. We would have so much fun working on our house together

Just curious, what made you have to replace it anyway?? Was it a fog horn noise??

One chick to another: NEVER underestimate the power of a cheater bar! (Dudes use them too, just a lot sneakier than us…LOL)

@ChickFixUSA. This is good to see, including your verbal expression when the connection was so tight. That made me laugh and was very real. However, as someone else has noted here, it would be good to not 'use teflon tape on the side that has the rubber gasket. The wire is to bridge electricity over the rubber gasket.' And to use two wrenches at the same time if possible.

Why not first try to adjust the PRV? And, why not first clean the bell. RE - copper wire ... meant as a jumper for the #4 ground wire from electrical panel because the PRV may not be considered an adequate means to transfer power in an emergency. ... also recommend she replace ALL house gate valves with 90 degree ball valves. Don't forget under sinks and all toilets. Use SS braided wraps - never the plastic/translucent cheapies! No wrench comment, but, with one wrench a risky road! On the plus--very well done video!

I think the video should have started off by mentioning this project is only necessary if your PRV is broken. For most people, if the pressure is too low or high, you simply need to adjust the PRV by turning the screw to the right place.

I liked it even more when the DIYer started to take the pressure regulator valve apart to see why it stopped working properly.

ChickFix USA - that wire you are referring to at 3:16 is the jumper wire for the ground.

Any tips on loosening a stubborn thread? Even using two wrenches I’m not able to loosen the original outlet connection. It’s tight quarters in a drop ceiling and using a hammer to nudge it is not happening.

Canada forums here same idea's too. John.

the wire may be a ground connection

That wire is to ground any electrical current moving through the copper it’s called electrolysis

She's awesome

Have you had any issues installing the PRV upside down? I just installed a new one but the PRV ended up horizontally

All I want to know is which way to turn it to decrease the pressure I don't want to turn the regulator knob in the wrong direction right off the bat because it's already high I'm gonna blow something apart you say turn it up or down as you need it well what the h*** does that help?!

Always use a hold back wrench you'll twist the copper line

That wire is for lelectrical ground ..

Nice video but always hold back when loosen.

Ow as a plumber watching her twist those solder joints made me uneasy she got it done I’d change the gate valve to a main while at it and call it a day

thanks for the video alot of guys worried to death about tightening with 2 wrenches lol. sure that's good but more single women have to do their own home maintenance and it isn't rocket science ! We girls need to be raised to take care of ourselves so more power to you lady! Agonizing over little details and shortcuts maybe are meant as constructive criticism. Practice makes perfect or nothing would ever get done in the world. Tired of raised eyebrows and condescending attitudes when at auto parts or hardware stores. I don't have the extra money to throw away on simple repairs and wouldn't if I was rich either. I like to know how things work. If the guy across street can rebuild carb and is barely hitting 3 digit IQ why the hell can't I? Ok, that's not accurate I bought a $15 carb online.

I wish my wife would fix the plumbing while I drink cold beer

Just discovered mine is leaking. Is this an emergency? Will they burst?

Oh, some people believe in using German Torque…cause pipes will be Guten (good and) tight😂

Using the channel locks to turn off that gate valve on the left was probably a no-no. I've overtightened those before in response to a slow drip, but it actually makes it worse. You likely cracked the plate in there that has the o-ring and now it will never seal.

You took it apart just to see inside? Hahaha, you are a curious one indeed. 😂

Hi, I the black arrow is 40 and the red arrow is 60 . That is good?

It looked like she was risking breaking the pipe.

Don't need teflon on union side.

Where did you get that shirt?? My last name is Caulk and I NEED that shirt in a dude version. Thank you in advance

Did the new PRV come pre-set so it read about 60 psi?

If i would of done this the way she did this with out two wrenches. Everything that could go wrong would have.🤔🤔🤔

One BIG Mistake. You almost broke the copper pipe !!! Use two wrenches to counteract the rotation of the PRV against the copper pipe. Two big channel locks .

Hmm..

Pipe wrench

Not bad for an older gal, although i thought she was going to snap that pipe on the right side when taking off the PRV with only 1 wrench. EEK!

That is bonding wire rather than grounding

Sammy Hagar can’t drive 55. I sure can and it’s 55 psi for me at my pressure reducing valve.

It's the same with lug nuts. "You just twist them off", except the last person who twisted them on was the freakin hulk!

Hey yall that gal got lucky she didn't break that pipe by not using two wrenches didn't she? LOL!........

You were lucky you didn't nick the oring