"I don't need to end face this ...but" You are a machinist!! Very Nice, Very Professional!

The instructor in the only welding class I ever had said there are three P's to welding castings. Preheat, post heat and prayer. You covered all three.

I would never would have thought to make a mandrel. Good job!

You, Keith Fenner and Brian Block get the most interesting challenges!

How about some updates on the staus of projects that have disappeared from view. Stoker Engine, Metal planer, Monarch lathe, Radial drill press. Thanks for all the great work you do.

Thinking around corners. Well done.

Looking at a lot of the replies, a large percentage thought that you should just pop out the rivets and make a new hub and tab part... That can be done, BUT, where do you draw the line? You could just take measurements and make the entire engine over with modern materials and processes, what would you have? Certainly NOT an old historic engine. A lot of the engines you see at meets have repairs on them that look like they were done by a blacksmith. I think that is appropriate. What you did here is also appropriate. When I was a boy in the '50s & 60s, I saw repairs that looked like they might have been done in a campfire! Some with Oxy/Acet & coathangers! Whatever it took to make it work! I don't know how a lot of people can criticize this work other than possibly they just stumbled on the video and haven't watched any of what you do... Keep it up!! The true believers are out here. Not trying to make it sound like a cult or anything. Just saying that, to me, what you do to repair and utilize old cast iron machinery keeps it in it's niche, old cast iron machinery. Repair of CNC stuff is found elsewhere. Another excellent video and explanation. 69yo 45 mi NE of Denver metro in the country maintainin' mah distances! You keep safe wherever you are.. Michael in Colorado.

I will comment about tig brazing. It is very very very effective at sheet metal. When you don't need a weld and you have thin material and warpage may be a concern, tig brazing with silicon bronze is my goto. All the racecar chassis builders out there know what I'm talkin about! Well, the ones that put in the effort do at least. Things like your lexan window mounting rails and tabs, dzus brackets, etc.

Morning Keith, morning coffee and a great video from you! Stay safe and virus free! God bless and Thanks for sharing!👍👍👍👍👍

You always amaze me, the solutions you come up with. Well done. Another old engine will live to run another day.

I wouldn't have thought it would have been that big of a deal to just machine a new hub with the tab to replace the broken one. Would be a rather easy project.

I can definitely see the advantage of TIG when brazing a small part. The use of a fixture to hold alignment is critical in a successful repair. Thanks

@14:00 compare the braze on the piece to that shown 14 seconds later. He's done some more work. The braze originally looked like poor adhesion and later it looks better.

I love these little repairs of old cast iron pieces. Each one presents unique challenges. I would have turned and faced the gear shaft to clean all that old repair completely off, and made a sleeve for it with a tab sticking out all as one piece, but you know what they say about opinions...

Hi Keith you should try carbon brazing with the silicone bronze.You use a carbon as the heat sauce ( electrode ) and the silicone filler rod.I used to do a lot of that and found that it was very easy to do compared to the tig. you place the filler wire in the area you want to fill then applyling the carbon to the silicon to melt it into the joint.You can get a very fine build up and control the weld easier as well.

Bless you Keith for all the new content, keeping me sane.

*STRONGER Than The Original in my guestimation, Sir.*

I think I might have approached the engineering on this one a little differently. I'd have put the gear on the lathe and turned down the shaft hub extension about half the thickness and then machined a separate collar by just milling away part of a sleeve leaving behind the tab that engages the lobe as part of the collar making it all one piece of metal. Make it so it could be shrink fitted on to the turned down extension on the gear and you end up with a very mechanically solid attachment for the tab. I don't doubt the brazed tab will work but I just can't bring myself to trust the long term strength of the butt braze as much as I would the shrink fitted collar. Love your videos, Keith. Keep up the great work.

Very interesting video. Just goes to show you. All hope is not lost, old school repair technology comes to the rescue. Take care.

I kinda thought you would have built the hub that was riveted to the gear. Good video, I've heard you and Mr. Pete say, there's a million ways to repair something.

Nice repair job Keith, your customer should be pleased!

As always Keith....Thanks very much...!

Did you make a little “haha” “mileage may vary” I’m not sure why that cracked me up but it did! 🤣 thank you for a great program!

Thank you for showing this technique. I had never seen it before.

subscribed after your repair for Leo (Sampson Boat Co.) and really enjoy your humble approach and attention to detail. Thank you sir.

since this flange was riveted onto the main gear making a new one would have been a good alternative as well-all the work done on mill and lathe-no welding/brazing...

I like jobs that involve running over to the lathe, because - let’s face it - what machinist doesn’t enjoy getting to use the lathe? ❤️😄 Of course, one could say the same about a horizontal/vertical milling machine, too.

Quality video as always Keith. Abom79 figured out a nice set up to be able to show whats actually going on during welding. I'm sure he would be more than willing to share it with you.

Very clever machining the mandrel. Looks like a very usable repair.

Great solution to work holding!

Brilliant approach....

Hi Keith, stumbled on to your channel with the steam engine videos. I'm hooked and subscribed! I'm not a machinist, but I find your videos very interesting & educational. Much appreciated from Ontario Canada. Stay safe!

Enjoyed

Nicely done repair!

I was thinking about that job & wondered why you didn't redrill the oil hole on the other side of the repair, that way you could have used that real estate on your brazing and locked into that hole too? I suppose if it fails there's always sending it to Windy Hill Foundry to mold up & pure a new cast iron one.

Nice job...looks like it will work well!

Nothing worse than fixing a mess that has been previously bodged !

Thanks to your skill and ingenuity, there's going to be a happy hit'n'miss engine owner out there.

Great work Keith. Looks like a good repair. Thank you for sharing.

A jubilee clip may have been helpful to hold that piece. Nice job on the braze, thanks for sharing.

hahaha, I think I am going to tig braze it... but I'll take the torch out anyways! Of course, the torch is more fun!

"I'm gunna run over to my lathe". I'd like to see that.

Well done son.. I enjoy your channel so much.. carry on!

Great work. Thanks for sharing.

good project too do As always you do an excellent job Keith thanks I ALWAYS LOOK FORWARD TOO YOUR VIDEOS !

THANK YOU...for sharing. Very nice repair. Enjoyed.

Nice set up.

Hiya Keith

Keith, I noticed that you kept the alignment dowel in place as you brazed the part. What keeps the braze from bonding with the dowel?

Well Keith, we start with facing because it is tradition, I was told 🙂

If it works it works.

Nice neat job.

How much do you spend on acetylene every month. Given the amount of time you use a torch just for heat you might consider using propane or natural gas as the fuel. Save the acytelene for welding or brazing. Nice repair. The mandrel was genius.

Gday Keith, nice repair job, please stay safe

Nicely done Mr.Rucker, Not sure if it was the camera angle but it looked like there was a crack on the hub @12:54...

2:59 Put your Gear in a Vice!

I use tig on AC when doing alumina/bronze,with enough cleaning so not to melt tunsten,100 freq.

I'm surprised you did not put the gear in the lathe to clean it up.

looks "World Class" to me. If something breaks that repair, there's something else going on with the machine.

Question for you please. On your torch, do you use different electrode stick out or arc length with cast vs steel? Thank you for all the great content!!!! 💪🏽😊

Instead of that vise grip, I might have tried a hose clamp. Less in your way and way less fiddly.

you the.... MAN !!

Looks like an impulse magneto drive.

Don't forget to put the invoice in the box...

Is this a situation where installing a dowel pin would help to locate the broken piece and lend strength to the joint?

he keith about this project it is not would be best to just re machine a new part and river up on it?

Want to try some tig brazing sometime in the future... I learned to flame braze 50 years ago on large castings and smaller stuff so I guess it is still my go to for repairing castings..I have an old Eutectic welder with hi freq set up for tig that I will try brazing with sometime maybe.. Cheers; Mike in Louisiana (Ramsay 1) :)

One thing to remember. You have to heat that cast iron up before welding it.

Do you charge people when you do repairs for them? Just wondering since you are in the shop and making videos with the repairs...

it almost look like it be less work just to make a whole part that attaches to that gear and swap the whole thing

Not a machinist, however it looks like you could have spun that on a lath and turned of down a bit, and put a reverse(?) thread on it and then put and internal thread on a piece of stock and then ground or cut the 3/4 off you didn't need? Or I could talking out my butt, silicon bronze it pretty strong however I read that ALU-Bronze is stronger.

I don't know anything about any of this stuff, but do you ever get the feeling that when keith is talking he is thinking, meh, it'd be easier to just make a new part from raw stock?

great one i have faith

Hey Keith have you considered learning how to oxy-acetylene weld cast iron? It's not difficult, and the results would look much nicer on your vintage repairs. It might even work with TIG.

Did you consult with Shopdogsam about this?

Honestly, if this doesn't work I would separate the two castings and replicate the inner portion (the broken part) in bronze using investment casting. I wouldn't use iron because my results in iron have not been good enough, not enough skill in iron.

It's riveted. Maybe would be better make new part from steel?

TIL what a "hit & miss engine" is. Video I found explaining it: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nL97q9qf1Jy1hY0.html TL/DW: The engine has a flywheel with a centrifugal mechanism. When the flywheel slows down, the engine fires. Under low load, most strokes will be non-power strokes.

Keith, the color saturation of this video is low. Everything looks a bit gray. FYI

Considering that it was welded before and broke more than once I would say the design is flawed. There is a pretty good chance this will break again. I hate to say this but it would have been better to cut a whole new piece out of steel and rivet that to the gear instead.

brazed? I hope there's not much of a load on that gear.

1 view, 0 comments. Thats a first for me

Maybe to make a new casting would not be that difficult.

Will this hold? I don't think so, Cut rivets off and make whole new part. Shock Treatment will kill this part!

Wow I am first

Looks like back kick prevention. But design of it is quite poor.

THESE old dogs are getting further and farther in between.

I'm afraid that piece always will be prone to break off due to the poor design. This part should have been made of steel and not cast iron which is way too brisk

Good grief!! Brags on his ability to braze but contaminated the puddle with the tungsten multiple times, long arced it the rest of the time then grinds a chamfer on the part it attaches to make his hack repair job work....then talks bad about the last guy's work while he's placing the parts on top of the packing material in the box. It would have been a much better fix to unbolt the gear from the part and machine a new one. Keith, this is embarrassing. Have you no pride in the quality of your work?

i think they welded it and than when it was fixed in position they brazed it