Man of culture I see.

Tanker incident was a usp9 though

Literally why im watching this 😂

The Plant Chapter used the SOCOM as well.

The funny thing is, it's not only more dependable, but it's as accurate, if not more so, than any "ultra-high-end", custom-built pistol chambered in .45ACP out there..!!

@@johnyoungs7453 but can it shoot .45 super?

My USP expert 9 has been flawless in every way I love it.

False

Mk23 can handle 45 super

This is what I call the mag scam. That's why I don't own a hk . They like their magazines more than I do

If you get the chance test the SFP9 / VP9 tactical and tell us if you like it. Pretty sure you will.

Can confirm. I own a USP 45 Tactical and I have shot the MK23 quite a bit as I had one on loan to me for awhile. As far as the ergonomics go, I'd generally agree with the video. However, the MK23's recoil impulse is probably the best there is for a .45ACP chambered combat oriented handgun. They shoot incredibly soft due to their design and relatively heavy weight. I've also found both to be equally reliable.

The standard magazine "bottoms" (baseplates) from the Mk 23 can be purchased and installed (swapped) on the bottoms of USP .45 magazines and they'll work just fine in both guns: the Mk 23 and the USP .45/USP(T) .45.

does the civilian model 23 have that slide lock feature? I was trying to look at pictures online of it and I don't see that switch that's on the forgotten weapons video.

My Mk23's decocker does not allow the hammer to be lowered in "stages" - it just drops it quickly with a loud "snap". Videos of others show a decocker that lowers it in "stages". What's wrong with my gun, or what am I doing wrong - am I using a wrong "technique"..??

@@johnyoungs7453 Mine does the same thing. The one thing I don't like about it is when I de-cock, the level shoots back up before you can get your thumb out of the way & the serrations on the level scrape my thumb.

Put a compact USP lever on it

I have both. I changed both the safety lever and the mag release. Both are awesome. The mk I use while hiking, but run 45 supers

I know this is an old comment, but I ran into the same problem with the USP45 and ended up converting it to Version 7 LEM and thus removed the safety lever.

The ballistics of a .45 ACP are not going to change much if at all between a 5 and a 6 inch barrel. If you watch military arms channel, he chronos a hk usc which has a 16 inch barrel and the ballistics remained practically the same. I am not saying the Mark 23 is a bad gun by any means in fact it is my favorite gun I own and for a good reason but the reality is, at least for me anyway, there isn't anything the Mark 23 does better than the USP beyond the longer sight radius and a slightly longer magazine release. Beyond the cool factor I just don't think the +$2,000 price tag justifies it as a practical choice over the USP. My two cents. Again both are awesome handguns but I just feel the USP Tac has better ergos, safety/ decocker and a more comfortable size as a side arm while retaining the features from the Mark 23.

@@Waldoman89 Ok, right on. One thing, though: the velocity of bullets fired using "hot" loads ("+P" & "+P+" - such as DoubleTap's .45 SMC loadings, .45 Super loads, etc) WILL make a noticable difference between 5"bbl's & 6"bbl's - I've chronographed many of those in a 1911, and compared them with various "standard" loadings. Aside from the "cool factor", the one thing I do like about the Mk 23 is the fact that it's rugged as hell and built like a tank. Beyond running over the slide with a tank equipped with steel treads, I don't think you can hurt it. A couple of other things: I don't care for checkering of any kind. I like my grips to be "dead smooth" all the way around. I've done numerous "tests" over the last several years with several of my 1911's as well as several revolvers in different calibers wherein I would liberally "slather" WD-40, Break-Free CLP, various light greases, etc, all over my shooting hand - ran around, holding the gun "loosely", and firing at various targets from different distances. Not once did I ever feel like I was about to "lose control" of my gun. That whole "You need to have needle-sharp checkering all over your gun: front strap, back strap, grip or side panels, etc, etc,etc.." was started by that idiot Mickey Fowler and his cronies who were winning all the IPSIC championships for several years past, as a sales gimmick to make money. Just like "magna-porting" and cutting ports near the muzzle of your gun to ostensibly limit the muzzle flip (felt recoil) of your gun. What horse shit...!! All gimmicks..! Checkering tends to abraid the skin of my palm on my shooting hand. The backstrap checkering on the Mk 23 isn't too bad, but I am considering on sending both guns (I have two) to a gunsmith and have him sand or file & polish the rear of the grip and remove the checkering. Both my slide assemblies right now are back at ToolTech Gunsight in Oxford, Michigan. They're installing custom tritium night sights (bright green dots on the front sights & two yellow dots on each of the rear sights - all with surrounding white outlines) on each slide. ToolTech apparently is the only company in the entire US that does this sort of customizing. They'll even install tritium night sights on Walther PPK's & PP's if you want..! They'll grind off the front sights & cut dovetails for the front sights, as well. Excellent work..!! And you can get your choice of colors for the sights, as well. I asked them what they would recommend & the gal there told me "Law Enforcement officers almost always request a bright green dot for the front & two yellow dots for the rear". I thought about it & told her "Yeah, that sounds good to me". I'm having both slides done the same way, to the tune of $265 per slide...! I've shot the USP Tactical .45ACP HK pistol & I liked it just fine except for the smaller mag release "paddles". I didn't think the gun was quite as accurate at longer ranges (50, 75, & 100 yds), but that could've been me. My buddy who owned the gun let me burn through several mag's worth of ammo, and the checkering on the backstrap made my hand sore for a while afterwards. Not as bad as "needle-sharp" checkering like what you used to find on "custom" 1911's, but after several mag's worth of recoil & muzzle flip (the gun rotating in the palm of my hand), that made me decide to look into something different. I'm a "born & bred" 1911 guy & own several (dozen, believe it or not...!) - from an original 1911 (serial #1413) made in late 1911) up to several Para-Ord P-14's and P-10 "Warthogs". All with dead-smooth mainspring housings (many from Smith & Alexander with lanyard loops) and ZERO checkering. Wonderful guns..!! Anyway enough for now. It was nice hearing from you..!! JBY53@HARBORNET.COM if you'd care to chat further..! Cheers, JY...!! :-)

@@Waldoman89 "A more comfortable gun to carry...", yes, for most people, I can certainly see that. But then, a Walther PPK might be even "more handier" to carry. My point in all this is, the Mk 23 is worth it IF you're willing to look at (1), how it's made vs. the "Hk .45" series of guns, and (2), why it was made "that" way. The Mk 23 was made for serious military operators and clandestine operations behind enemy lines, etc. The Hk .45 series of guns was made for civilians and civilian law enforcement personnel to utilize. If you look down inside the frame of the Mk 23, and if you're ever able to do a direct, side-by-side comparison with an open frame of a USP .45, the differences will become immediately obvious - the "innards" of the Mk 23 are much "stouter", "thicker", "beefier", etc than anything you'll see inside an Hk .45 series gun. I, personally, am willing to put up with the additional "bulk" of the Mk 23 (remember, its unloaded weight is 39oz compared with the unloaded weight of a full (service) sized, steel-framed 1911 pistol which weighs in at 42oz..!). The Mk 23 is a gun you simply cannot hurt, and there are cases on record wherein HK test people loaded a "double charge" with a bullet stuck in the bore, and then firing another one, thereby pushing both bullets out and ultimately it was later determined that the barrel had remained unharmed in the process...! The bottom line is, everybody's different. If less weight and a smaller-sized gun are more important to you, that's ok. I personally am willing to give up some of that in order to be able to carry a gun which, to me, instills the greatest amount of confidence in a handgun's performance that can be had. Yes, it is "bulkier" than the smaller USP series of .45's. But, like the sword of Sir Lancelot, the Mk 23, once it's in my hand, almost "suggests" (to my way of thinking, anyway) to me that I simply cannot lose..! Just a different way of looking at things, I guess...! Cheers...!

really= didnt know that with the 200 pieces per year. When i get my license i can only choose two handguns here in germany, you can get more of course, but then you have to participate in competition and i dont plan that, maybe somewhere in the future. So to get only two handguns is a though decision. One model was always the Mark 23, the 2nd i dont know. The Sig Sauer 1911 Scorpion emperor attracts me for example or a FN High Hower, maybe oldschool american steel like S&W revolver. Definately not another HK if i would buy a Mark 23. Maybe a tuned Glock. It needs to be a longer full size gun for static shooting at 27 yards, which is the standard range here.

The serial number is rubbing off. Good eye.

@@Waldoman89 Did you do that intentionally? Or it worn off eventually? I'm asking because I have the same issue on my compact USP but not on full size, trying to figure out this is a quality control issue or a common issue.

@@siuuuuuu7048 Normal wear

I've shot a standard USP and the tactical, the match trigger is better but not significantly.

I improved mine by clipping a coil and a half off of my hammer spring. Lightened the pull, smoothed it out a little, and despite it seeming lighter, I've never had a light strike on a primer yet. If you are considering such a mod, do it gradually, like take 1/4-1/2 coil at a time, put it back together completely, cycle the action several times, feel how the trigger behaves, slowly, quickly, in double and single, and then if you still feel like it's too stiff, take another 1/4-1/2 coil and try again, but better to err on the side of stiffness because if you take too much, your trigger will go mushy and your hammer will not have sufficient force to pop the primer, and until you buy and install a new hammer spring, your beautiful HK will be f***ing useless. However, get it right, and she's a dream. Double is smooth and steady all the way until the break, but in single, there's a soft pull up to a crisp stop and after that, she breaks clean. My only complaint is that the stop on the match trigger isn't standard on all the triggers. I mean who wants more travel and a longer reset? A little is good and necessary, but the more movement, the less accuracy, even in a sh*t show.

No

Yes, both are rated for +P. Both are very accurate, more so than I am. The MK23 can shoot a sub 2 inch group at 25 meters. There are a number of requirements the MK23 had to meet for the government contract. It is said to be one of the most tested combat handguns in history.

@@Waldoman89 Yessir..! Think about this: The original 1911 had to shoot 6,000 rounds before being accepted. It was the only gun to make to the "finish line", so-to-speak...! Then, roughly 80 years later, in the early-to-mid '90's, the HK Mk 23 came along, and had to go 30,000 rounds of 185gr, +P .45ACP h/p ammunition through it before any major malfunction could put it out of action..!! The complete tests also ran every 2,000 rounds of ammo, in which there could be only one minor malfunction due to lack of lubrication, etc...! 30,000 rounds..!! Them's a LOT of ammo, Tonto...!!

I believe both are rated for 45 super. But if I'm not mistaken the usp requires an updated spring to do so. The mark 23 will do it out of the box

@@garrett892 i recently found an expert model, is it pretty much the same?

With the trigger pressed to the rear the hammer drops. If you hold your finger on the trigger you can't reset the hammer to the cocked position. It will not "catch". Only releasing your finger from the trigger or cycling the slide will allow the hammer to be cocked and trigger reset. In order to hear/ feel the reset, the trigger is pressed rear and slide cycled. Then the trigger is allowed to move forward until reset is heard/ felt.

Can tell you don’t know a dam thing about hammer fired guns

The Mark 23 is considerably thicker.

@@Catgat37 the grip? do you have both?

@@danbarb9728 I don't have the tactical....just the basic USP 45. And yes, my Mark 23 is a much thicker grip.

@@Catgat37 ok, interesting because i saw other videos with the two guns and they said the grips were nearly identical, just marginally thicker.

@@danbarb9728 "marginally" is a very broad term. It really depends on the size of your hands. The Mark 23 is relatively unwieldy in comparison to the USP.

Scheels

No, they are not interchangeable

@@Waldoman89 thanks - I wish the usp was also chrome lined

Believe it or not. You can take the ammo out of the magazines and put it back in too!

​@@Waldoman89 you're full of crap.

I am aware of the USP trigger build material, I was speaking on the feel of the trigger but looking back I can see that this came across incorrectly. I do not pretend to be an expert but rather an enthusiast of these guns, I do feel however I have sufficient knowledge to make a video on the subject matter. It's easy to sit behind a keyboard and judge a single moment from a 10 minute video... Thank you for the criticism all the same.

Kevin, etc al'... My Mk23's decocker does not allow the hammer to be lowered in "stages", but everybody else's video shows that it does. What is wrong with my gun? I bought it brand new. - JY

@@lemniscatelogos7917 Yeah, I found out from experimenting that if you push "in" on the decock lever while pulling down on it, it will lower the hammer in two stages. I was merely pulling down without putting a lot of inward or "side" pressure on it and when you try to lower the hammer that way, it just "slams down" in one loud "snap"..! I gave up on using it and instead, ended up reverting to my long-standing experience with single-action 1911's, and now I simply hold the hammer down while pulling the trigger, and lowering the hammer that way, which, by the way, IS "totally silent". I found that I can do that using either a two-handed technique, or using a one hand technique. Again, it's totally silent doing it that way.