Thanks Stan. You explained that very well. You also have a relaxing and friendly voice.

Pretty ingenious! Simplicity itself. Thanks for sharing.

Very nice, Stan. Back in 1969, when I was building my first N scale layout, available parts were hard to come by. Electrically-powered switches were costly for a kid whose railway was funded for by making deliveries for the local pharmacy. However, I had a bit of luck; my dad was a pilot, and so was acquainted with the wire-and-bell-crank setup used to move elevators, trim tabs, etc. on small aircraft. He was also an outfitter & guide, and had some heavy waxed thread (linen or flax used to sew canvas, I think), and a box of screw-in metal "rings" like one half of a gate latch. During WWII, while flying from airfields in England, he had seen British full-size practice where elevated trackside switch boxes containing rows of long levers, were linked to steel bars that ran beside the right-of-way to a distant switch. The Switchman would set the 'points' and the corresponding semaphore indicator with these big levers. There was not much variety available in N scale stuff at that time, but the only hobby shop in the district had Peco manual N scale switches. My dad and I worked out a somewhat similar setup to yours. At the switch, a vertical wire link came up next to the switch, and turned to move the manual throw. On the underside was a small plywood quadrant, set up like an aircraft bell-crank. 2 heavy threads attached to this could rotate it 90 degrees or so. Then the two cords ran back through screw-in eyes on the underside. The screw-eyes allowed a change of direction where needed. The cords were attached to a row of levers (clothespins?) set on one side of the layout. The levers were mounted side-by-side on a piece of a bicycle spoke, and springs or a rubber band kept the threads taut. The levers latched at either end of the throw, and the thread rotated the bell-crank when pulled, turning the wire that poked up and moved the switch. A little flag showed how the switch was lined. This worked quite well. By using the metal eyes to change the path of the thread, it could move a switch several feet away. It was not as tidy as what you've built, but the principle was the same. It was quite reliable and most importantly, didn't cost much. If the switches had not been Peco snap-action ones, things would not have worked as well. I'm now retired and living on a small fixed income, and I've been looking at building a small layout of some sort. I really like the method you have invented, with the push-pull dowels, so I may borrow it. Anyhow, many thanks for this "show and tell." I really enjoyed it.

Just to add one of the simplest and best explanations I've seen. Thanks for the calm, evenly paced walkthrough. Some of the best 15mins of KZfaq video.

Stan that was an awesome video. I will give this a try with my first layout. Appreciate you sharing this easy inexpensive rig. Here I am 1 year after many have commented on your video and learning a new idea. Thanks for sharing your ideas.

Truly the acme of simplicity ! Well done

Thank you so much for making these I'm definitely going to add them to my layout you are why DIY are the best

This is an excellent system! I just implemented this on two turnouts, in N, on my lunch break in about 15 minutes using materials on hand. Love it!

Thank you for sharing this. Great ideas are often the simplest ideas. Like you, I now have 20 or so points to make remote controlled. Might even attempt a double slip, might being the key word.

I love this, im planning on building a point to point siding layout and these will work perfectly, thank you for sharing Stan!!!!

THANK YOU...for sharing. Great idea with just a little material.

Fantastic! Great idea! I was thinking of something like that but hadn’t got nearly a far or as well thought out as your throws. Thanks again!

this is also a great way of fitting remote switch motors without making big holes in the base board and if you have a thick board. I line the holes with fine brass tube as well. Was going to do them all with a square hook in the middle of the rails but love the idea of the indicator. Great vid.

Well done Stan - really super idea and very instructional video! -Rick

love this video.. I've always been fascinated by mechanisms..as you've said..couldn't be easier. thank you for sharing.

Finnaly Ive found what Ive been looking for. Excellent Stan

Awesome idea! Thanks for sharing. Dave

I like this way of making a remote control. As you say your self. It is so simple. Steen, Denmark. And good luck 😄.

My God! So simple it's brilliant!

Nice idea.

What a cracking idea !!! Excellent video with clear and concise explanation. Going to utilise this method on my 'Inglenook Challenge' Layout. Cheers.

Thank ❤ you so much, could not be any easier I will use it on my n gauge layout, paper clips should be strong enough. Thanks again, john.

Perfect! Just what I needed. I tried the Wills kit with oo9 points, but the metal rod bends the sleeper when switching the points. I'll try a modified version of what you are doing here. Awesome, very professional video! Subscribed. 👍👍👍

Great video, gonna use this on my layout

¡Hola buenas tardes Stan! Having watched the addendum video, before posting this comment, I can now add my own thanks for such a clever use of inexpensive materials. On the branch line board, of my garage layout, I have initially installed analogue Hornby surface-mounted point/switch motors. However, I am thinking of experimenting with some hidden, manual operated, lever systems. Your wire rod set up may just be what I’m looking for. Definitely food for thought Stan. I’ll post my experiments in due course. As ever, stay safe and well. Un saludo. Gary

Thanks. I like the idea very much and am intending to use this on my layout.

That is a great idea. I like that!! I have saved that for future reference.Thanks for sharing.

thank you great idea with a great detailed video

I LIKE IT! THANK YOU For sharing😊

Great idea! I like it.

This is EXACTLY what I was looking for! Very well done. Hopefully I can convert it to N scale.

This was was absolutely FANTASTIC demonstration!!! I cannot say Thank you! enough. Your detailed, visual walk-through of the creation and assembly answered any question I might have had after you were done. Wonderful. I do have one question regarding the dowels underneath the layout. Your two shown are very short lengths. If the wood dowel has a length of 15" or longer, do you add some type of support to keep them from sagging? I was thinking, perhaps, a small piece of wood in their pathway with a hole drilled through it for the dowel to pass through.

A good idea for operating peco points. I thought as you showed the workings and makings, you were going to have the wire come about an inch dead straight underneath and then put a 90 degree bend in it. Then put another 90 Degree bend facing upwards at the distance you want the push rod to travel. This means the push pull rod would be supported by the wire at one end and the frame at the other. Also the hole in the rod would only need to be round not elongated to allow for an angle change. As you made it, there is a possibility the rod will work its way along the wire and bind the rod in the sideframe or actually fall off.

This is genius!!!!! Simple and effective

Looks great

Great Video. Who knew Doctor Aaron Glass was into Model Trains.

Ingenious. A great application of the KISS Principle. Wonder if that can be used for my KATO turnouts in some way?

Great video and idea utilizing Peco’s point holding snap spring , I did a similar thing on one of my layouts, The only down side I found is those push-pull rods will sometimes snag your clothing when walking by,🚂

Nicely done, the only thing I might add (other than the paper clips idea) would be to paint green and red 'calibration bands' at the point where the dowels go into the facia so you can immediately see which way the point is set without peering across the layout. Any recommendation with respect to the maximum lever length under the board? As on OO9 the point throw distance is not that great.

Excellent---too good to be true

Brilliant!

Great video and great idea! What is the spacing on your drilling jig? Thanks.

Very interesting, I may be able to use that basic method but I have about 110 Peco turnouts on my layout.

Saludos cordiales amigo Stan Ferris desde Latinoamérica gracias por el aporte te comento que en Perú a través de la Editorial Salvat este año salió el coleccionable de 100 números Tren Eléctrico . Ahora estoy armando pieza a pieza y justo ahora estoy con los dobles rieles derecha e izquierda y este tutorial a tu ingenio y tenacidad lo aplicaré y se me hace más sencillo maniobrar remotamente , bendiciones .Sería mucho pedir si existe alguna forma en la locomotora hacer que funcione a control remoto y añadir en ese control las velocidades hacerlo más remoto , gracias totales.................................................

Just to follow up, I went even cheaper by using paper clips instead of piano wire! I notice your piano wire is 1.19mm. I think the paper clip is very similar in thickness. I'm working in N scale, but I think wire of half the thickness would be too bendy to provide the necessary action on the switch. Oh, and it works perfectly. Thank you again.

great

What kind of battery system do you use. I also have 2 engines with battery power but the system is not in production any more.

Might I ask you for some very helpful information regarding the PECO switch you used (and in general). I do not own PECO, however after seeing this manual throw design I plan to buy PECO switches and duplicate your manual switch throw design. It's fabulous! Do all PECO insulated frog switches have the built-in, internal spring that holds the point snugly against the rail when thrown? I was looking at PECO #5 right (# SL-8351) and PECO #5 left (# SL-8352) insulated frog switches for a small switching layout that runs shorter cars and engines. Might you know if these PECO switches have that built-in spring? MANY THANKS!!!

Hi. Just wondering what battery system you're using? Enjoy your day. Ray L

Great idea for use with Peco switches. But Peco track uses European tie spacing, so the track doesnt have a North American look. For me that is important. So Peco cannot be used. Atlas is used instead, but Atlas does not have a flip spring to secure the points against the stock rails, so your method will not work very well. Do you have a fix for the problem of switches with no flip spring? Maybe small magnets that ride on the throw bar?

Why didn't put a pin in the hole in your jig where the horn would be and bend the wire around that? Perfectly accurate everytime.

I see Green indication for BOTH positions of the switch ... ?

why don't you just use your 'jig' to make another bend - just push a drill bit though a hole and bend wire to make a loop. Otherwise very nice and simple and thanks for sharing.

Excellent! This is giving me ideas for my layout. Remote switch machines would be nice, but when I can reach the switch to do it manually, it seems a bit excessive.