Chris, those hubs dont operate off different vacuums. They are fully locked with vacuum or unlocked without vacuum. Youre having issues because its not rolling.

8.25 in ..... not only do i like watching your builds but i just love to watch how your brain works man your 1 of a kind my brother keep doing you pal 👍🏼. Love from the UK 🇬🇧

Speaking about the vacuum hubs, I have installed Ford vacuum hub front ends in vehicles that didn’t previously have them. Ford super duty trucks have a very small 12 V vacuum pump on the right side close to the hood hinge that could be obtained very inexpensively at a wrecking yard. Then you just need the vacuum switch out of the transfer case. The vacuum pump will be hooked up to a key hot and the vacuum switch controls whether they are locked or not. It is very simple.

One consistent fabricator and youtuber.. much respect brother 🤙

For the vacuum, given that you have two sets of actions for the two mechanisms, make four pistons, pair two and two (of the same CC) and make a small lever mechanism for them so that you just push a paddle for the release and a paddle for the lock. You can differentiate the action using a micro T split valve (drip gardening thing) that would mount on the dash between the two, making it obvious which way the valve's open.

So refreshing to see a youtuber putting in hard work rather than posting absolute shite content and making money off it keep up the hard work lad i love watching these

Thumbs up if you think he should build a fiberglass or aluminum trophy truck body for it!!!??? I think it would look so sick if he did it!!

A big thanks for keeping all of us entertained and great workmanship. And as always looking forward for the next video

*Engine vacuum and a vent WILL BE REQUIRED for the hubs.* It's simple. Best EZ plan: Vacuum to micro ball valve to four way (+) 1) ball valve FROM source vacuum, 2) ball valve to atmosphere filter, 3) to left hub & 4) to right hub. Ball valve #1 is normally CLOSED (no vacuum to four way system) Ball valve #2 is normally OPEN (vent to atmosphere with bronze fuel filter) *CRITICAL* Switch both to lock hubs. (Hint: Use carb style linkage to tie them together for 1 easy switch) Switch both to unlock hubs when NO LOAD is applied. (you don't need to stop, just blip the throttle a couple of times) This system will compensate for ANY leaks (minor) in hub and any system volume (hose length etc.). *YOUR IDEA will not work because a closed system will constantly apply and release the hubs when the temperature changes.* AWESOME project! Keep up the good work!

This has been my dream project for years, can’t believe I only found this series now!!!

Speaking of Ford, I bet you could build your own rally Fiesta.

Make two cylinders, but connect each one to both wheels. The first one sized to be 150CC equivalent, the other 100 cc. This way you actuate the locking vacuum to lock both wheels, and the the unlocking vacuum to unlock. Simple, get it!

Very important!!! Break and Gas in same line. You need to be able to transfer your foot very fast at times. Honestly they should all be in line because of the dynamic way pedal use can happen in off road. But gas/break is most important.

Why is my favorite part how well those pedals look!

You should make 2 different length vacuum cylinders. One with enough stroke to lock the hubs, the other with only enough stroke to unlock the hubs. Great content!!!!

as much as vacuum locking hubs would be nice, for the sake of budget and headache I would have just stuck with manual locking hubs. Tried and true my man.

For the hubs, would have 2 levers. One pulls 1 or 2 pistons to the unlock position and the other pulls 1 or 2 pistons to lock the hubs. If you have to pull a single piston back to specific positions it is going to be hard to control. Put the pistons for lock and unlock in parallel on the vacuum lines.

If you still have the lifted go kart you ought to park them together just so everyone can see just how far you've come.

You are doing awesome work! I can't wait to see this one run! Try putting skateboard grip tape on your clutch and brake pedal. You'll be glad you did when you go for the brakes with wet shoes and they don't slide off the side of the pedal and then you nearly hit the Spec Miata in front of you on turn 5 of... Sorry. Right. Try skateboard grip tape! It's griptastic!

Gets better every video. He loves to fabricate.

Have been following this project from the beginning. I appreciate your approach to solving the engineering issues. "On the fly". Looking forward to see how it preforms.

I'm thinking that the reason why they lock and unlock at different vacuum levels is so you can hook both left and right hubs to a single vacuum source and keep the hubs in sync with each other. Keep up the amazing work 👍

For the pedals, you really want to be able to rest your heal on the floorboard or a foot rest while using it. Heal/toe accuracy is important. The height looks a little high to me. Also, you want to be able to rotate your right foot from gas to brake without lifting up the heal for racing. The pedals should be closer together.

You could dent the metal or even create a dish in the panel that's in your way to make more room for movement if you need it love watching you build stuff man

Usually just letting off the throttle relieves enough pressure to allow the hubs to unlock

Thank you for the consistent Sunday uploads! Great content!

I can’t wait to see this monster driving

You are going to regret the hub change. Manual is king!

I want to see you take this on the trails you took the mini crawler on. This will be much more comfortable...

Your welding is impeccable man...

Hi from Maryland

محترف ومشاهدة عملك ممتعة

Wiping some lube where the o-ring will rub when assembled is useful to prevent the o-ring from becoming rubbed dry on the way in.

Typically the clutch and brake pedals are at the same height and the gas pedal is a little lower so you have to pull your foot all the way off the gas in order to brake. Super excited about this build!

The seat looks great and comfortable

Pull brake fluid from the top up though the master ...maybe that would be easier..love your work

You should build an off-roader with Toyota ifs front and back. There's a lot of gear sets available, along with lockers and I think they come with 4 piston calipers. You could run up to 42 inch tires.

Heal toe driving, toe on brake, heal on gas, when on a hill, that is the only way to stop and go. Let out clutch until it bites, give a little gas and slowly release brake. Try driving in a hilly area with lots of stop lights in an area, like downtown Seattle.

An air bleed pushbutton valve to a T off your vacuum line will allow you to reset your locker back to atmospheric pressure without pulling the tubing.

I would use the manual actuators on the front hub. Thanks for filming Chris. 😁👍

Ahh, these always complete my Sunday!

That setup looks a lot better

This thing is going to be so sick

The locking hubs are cool. You should worry about the type of vacuum line. I would use a stiffer braided steel rubber or even metal tube. The flexing of the line will give inconsistent results. The volume of air in the tube will need to be calculated from the dashboard as well.

Judging by the example you show on how to unlock the hubs. It seems that all you will have to do is simply let off the gas while the vehicle is in gear and moving. That alone should reverse the load which will have the same effect on the hub as what you showed. Love your content.

Honestly can't wait to see it done its looking pretty legit now keep up the work it looks like it's gonna be a blast!!

your brake and gas paddle are usually the same height, that way you can cross with your right foot, crossing is a racing technique.

The brake pads push against the bracket, NOT against the caliper that holds the cylinders (that push against the side of the brake pads), take a good look at the whole caliper assembly and see how the forces are transmitted from the brake pads to the bracket because sometimes they only work one way/can take a big force one way.

Looking good Chris getting closer love your design for the hubs nice 👍👍

About locking/unlocking 4wd manual hubs, there is actually no need to unlock them, yes it saves a bit of gas and thats about it.

Your welding skills are amazing and perfection

This may have already occurred to you but. You could set it up where each wheel locks separate. This would eliminate any balancing pressure problems. And if you get a leek on one side when out in the woods you would still have 3wd. On the dash you could make the handles so you can grab both at once, so effectively it would still be one action to switch both. It would take a little extra work but maybe save some as well. Just an idea. Love what you do. Great vid.

Ok this is my thought everything that is built and has a purpose like your calibers I would do some research on them if you can put them on upside down cause when you go hit the trails and you have no front breaks SHOULD OF WOULD OF COULD OF BUT THEN it’s to late I’m not say it won’t I just want you to be SAFE Your a Master Mechanic and Machinist thank you for another great video I really enjoy your channel glad I found it years ago Be safe

I look forward to your videos every week.. keep up the good work..

You might find spongy breaks when you put the bleeder down. Like watching you work, good job.

You can often swap the bleed nipple and banjo bolt around, check if the holes are the same

Wow!!! This is is an awesome project!!!

Just a thought, but it might pay to take some time and make a modular pedal system with the plans in Arc Droid that you can use on all your projects. Make it adjustable for 2/3 pedals or spacing and height, brake light switch, etc. It looks like you've probably already done half of that in this episode. Refine it over time.

You kick ass bro what an undertaking of a project hands down the best at what you do also proof you don't need a giant shop

Find out how many inches of vacuum to lock and unlock. Use a dash mount vacuum gauge and a valve. The electronic system does that way but with sensors.

maybe you can attach a pivoting handle to the top of the syringe, pull the lever all the way = lock half way = unlock

I reference to your front brakes. It doesn't seem like you're all that worried about the orientation of the bleed nipples. As suggestions, if it happens that you need to bleed your brakes you can power bleed them at the bleed nipple. Force filling your brake system from the bleed nipple will drive out the air into your brake reservoir.

Chevy has a mechanical vacuum pump that runs off a pully. Also the rolling back thing used to have to happen even with doing from 4wd back too two wheel drive. In old 2wd vehicles.

The vacuum hub system went bad on my 98 Ranger 20 years ago. Never bothered to fix it. They just stay locked. Works ok for me. Thanks for the videos! 👍👍

I would keep it super simple and just mount two of THOSE Syringes and not make a metal equivalent - the original syringe will be fine mounted on the roll cage inside the cockpit or in the dash - make a simple cross bar to link the plungers, you could use a cabinet door handle to grab them both together

I think in use the vacuum unlocking of the hubs should work by letting go of the throttle while driving to switch the direction of the load going through the hubs. Engine braking so to speak. Nice build, really enjoying it btw

So good ii boss 💪💪👍👍😊😊😍😍✅✅

Keep up the good work n keep your head up nomatter what

Oliver Picard and his aerospace engineer father (in their Project Mosquitto videos) went over their process to get their bump steer down to professional racecar levels. Understood that it's not important for this build, but you're always building something new. Maybe that knowledge could help you in the future. It was interesting to watch at the very least.

the driveline spinning will unlock it automatically. wont need to roll back.

The manual lockout hubs are waaaaay better. You could lose vacuum and those would fail. Before you kit the trail, get out and lock in your hubs. Then if you need 4x4 all you have to do is lock in your transfer case. That's what I do when I go mudding so I dont have to get out in the mud

You should try to run the hub lock actuators in parallel....both hubs off of one cylinder, just twice as big. Then you could make 2 "syringes" and have one to enable and one to disable. If you may the bore and piston of the "syringes" big, there would be little travel needed. You could possibly make one lever on the floor that self-centers and put one of the "syringes" on either side? Then it would be lever forward to enable and lever back to disable.

It's normal to have to go in reverse a little to release the hubs so I wouldn't worry about that

Have you owned a 4x4 truck or jeep? It's pretty common to have to come to a stop to engage or unlock the front drive.

You could get those stainless steel big syringes from farm co-op or what ever it is where you are that you get farm supply for horses and cows n such

Bigger master cyl = more volume which means less pedal feel , smaller master cyl = more pressure and more pedal feel that’s prob why you had issues with the other one you mentioned .. you should be at like a 3/4 or even 5/8” master for the clutch on that set up

raising the seat height a few inches should give more room based on the bend in your knees.

Ford explorer axles are held in by a CV Axle NUT. And newer rangers. After 98 they got rid of vaccum locking hubs do to issues.

You may not have to roll it backwards to get it to unlock.. hear me out; When you locked it, you were applying forward force to the wheel instead of to the axle. And to unlock it you had to change direction of the force on the wheel. But applying a reverse force on the wheel would be the equivalent of applying forward force on the axle! It may not be finicky at all! 🤞

Always excited to see one of your vids pop up. Quality content as always man

Olá amigo acompanhando o projeto que esta Fantástico!!! Boa sorte sempre!!!

👍😊🏆 allsome work bud from cruzermans inventions 😀

Brake and gas on the same plane for heel-toe. Nevermind that your heel doesn't actually get involved :P

All you need is a vacuum line to the motor with a release valve forget about those syringes ! Those syringes are more complicated !

use an electric vac from a turbo waste gate of a vw diesel engine; all you would need is 12V and a switch and its very small

This build is going to be sick!

Looks like way less work/headache to just get out and lock the hubs. But the engagement from people like me probably makes it worth it.

Brilliance.

Mount the syringes remotely and actuate them with a 2 position lever.

If you put a water bath under the grates of your plasma table it won't melt the bars

Excelentttttttt!!!!👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌👌🦾🦾🦾🦾🦾🦾🦾🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷🇦🇷

Please put a cap on the vacuum levers that says, "beast mode." 😂

Nice work!

Tiger loop it when bleeding. Then you don't need to pull calipers. Uses to do that lots with custom bikes. As the masters sometimes would be lower without pulling it all apart. You can see the air in the lines. Hence when your see diesel home heaters you see the loops before going into the burners.

It can be convenient not having clutch switch. If you stall on a rock you can use the started motor to crawl over the rock. Or on hill you can literally do hill start with out clutch just by keeping in gear not running and use the starter to get you moving while starting the vehicle just like toyota pick ups and Toyota 4runners have

Make a rubber heel rest so your feet aren't slipping around on that diamond plate. Skateboard grip tape maybe.

"I'm going back to manual locking hubs" content coming in the near future

Great work , great man 👌🏻

Glorious!

I had a Isuzu Trooper and you always need to back up to release the locks.