This is in my opinion KZfaq ment for, one of the best vids Ive seen recently. Thx for sharing and put so much time and effort in creating this vid. Gr. From the Netherlands 🇳🇱

Sweet set up. I have a traeger gravity stove it pumps lots of heat out. The only thing I would add is a lid to the hopper to minimize fire and smoke risk in you’re wall tent.

To get more heat out of your stove, place the flue at the opposite end from the burner so the hot gasses travel along the top surface. To slow your burn rate you would need a smaller burner tube. A 3 inch square tube rather than 4 inch might work. But, the practical limit is where it may clog due to the size of the pellets.

I’m thinking a pair of options would suit to minimise ash buildup. Firstly, a very simple second handle below the other one, connecting to a bit of steel flatbar just at the bottom of the burn chamber below the angle grate. Give it a jiggle to push the bottom layer of the ash bed forward into the ash drawer. Secondly, drill holes up into the bottom of the burn chamber, weld on a section of square tube with one side removed, and fit a drawer into it. This will allow the bulk of the ash to drop straight down, but any heat being generated still contributes to the overall burn.

Great job on the stove!! I want to do exactly that. That many hours is PERFECT. That's all you need for sleeping time.

Great video !!! Thanks for taking the time to try different settings. I will try to use your idea to convert a charcoal grill into pellet. All the best !

That was a cool design! What if you added a burn basket directly above your ash drawer and cut a new air intake just below the burn basket to draw fresh air between the bottom of the burn basket and the top of the ash drawer? Rather than having holes drilled in your 45-degree burn chamber plate, the new air intake opening would feed fresh air directly below the new burn basket. That might solve your ash plugging problem, especially if the burn basket were made of welding rods lined up side by side with just a little smaller gap between them than the pellet diameter, so the pellets could get good air, but not fall all the way through the burn basket before they were burned. If plugging occurred, the basket could be shaken slightly to clear the ash. (Just a thought). Thanks for sharing your ideas with the rest of us. If everyone would do that, the world would be a better place.

We see a nice beautiful invention. What we do not see is the many hours of thought that created this invention. This product is artistic in its simplicity and very innovative. Again my feed is down due to dust blocking a vacum sensor tube. For us keep it simple inventors and enthusiasts I would rank this invention and presentation in the area of combustion solutions as top 3 in the past 5 years. As a general invention, top 100...Great Job Chase the Hunt

awesome set up

Pretty ingenious ... ... smoke coming back through the hopper cconcerns me though .

Great video 😊

Your design has one flaw. It need to have the flame travel under a plate (or baffle ) inside the stove, so the flame has to travel under it the full length of the stove then back to the flue pipe and out. This way the flame has a chance to burn more of the smoke and also capture more of the heat before it exits out the flue pipe. I made one that made the flame travel back and forth from the front to the back of the stove twice with a series of baffles to capture all the heat from the flame (or as much as possible) It ended up to be very efficient and you could touch the pipe going into the chimney without burning your hand and the stove would run 600 - 700 degrees with no problem (almost too hot) Also, my burner is designed after the design used in the Riley tent stove pellet burner attachment. It's hard to find a photo of it but I did eventually thru a woodstove forum I found. Atleast if I were you, I'd lift your burner up tomake a 1/4" or 3/8" gap under it to send more air thru the pellets. Worth a try.

thanks i am going to try that with my tent stove

Great ideao

Success congratulations!

Awesome job, I think with a little tweaking you’ll be able to get 10-12 hours burn time.

What if at say 4-5 hours you just pulled the feed rod in and out a couple times to clear the ash in the holes? Would it putter out? Or would it clear it? Would it destroy your fire? Or make a basket style dish for the burning, so when you pull the feed rod in and out the whole fire isn’t blown apart, but more just pushed onto a little platform with holes to let ash fall but hold the fire. Then you can slam it a little to clear the ash and your back in business. Add more pellets and go for an evening hunt. Just thinkin. Love the process, want to see more. I might build one to add to my four dog stove.

have you try when hunting? if so can you show in video

I used 4 little 50mm computer fans on mine it only draws .2A. It sure makes them burn further down to ashes. I get like almost 4 hours out of a coffee can sized burn pot. I want to get more time tho, so I can let it burn all night. That is why I'm looking at making a hopper. It keeps my 8X16 insulated CTC at 73-75 degrees.

Got a question t on the funnel, you made. First did you make a video on how you made it. I got a sm ss stove, thinking of converting to pellets. That tube looks like a 2x2 sq. tube, right? Also, since it is a gravity feed, was the tube cut at a slight angle to help that feed? If not, might help to keep the pellets clogging..9 hr burn is not bad. Also, think I would put deflector plate above fire, to channel heat up front then thru chimney. Hope to hear on this making.

Try a small poker to clear the bottom holes but be careful not to push the fire off the burner. Perhaps that would require the addition of a coarse "basket" railing around the the burning portion but above the clinkers.

Why not put some small holes on what is catching the pellets so the ash falls though? Or something like a really tight metal grid. Top layer is just small strands of metal just big enough to hold the pellets with supports holding them together from the other direction as needed. Should solve the problem I would think.

Wealth of information, now,help us make one, I would of had more angle on funnel to feed pellet, and more angle on ash burn chamber. Thank you

Is that 3” square or 4”? I really like that design

Three levels with second grate to catch some on second grate...ashes fall to the bottom tray? 20mm air gap under burn grate...out of rod with 4mm gap for top grate and less for second grate? ...According to others.

What angle did you cut in the square tube?

I do not like that the flames seem to be shooting straight into the chimney. I would prefer it if there was a way for the flame to spend more time in the stove and radiate heat through the stove (Example a sheet of steel that goes around 75% to the front, and maybe a secondary burn system).

Try a baffle so the flame can't go straight up the flu

Moisture heat is going through the chimney you need to recover some of that heat here waste a lot of heat efficiency is like 5%

I don't understand why you didn't just do a simple redesign on that plate, moving those air intake holes further back from the burn chamber? Then ash buildup would have been a non-issue through the course of a full hopper run, even with the stove dampened down like it was in your first test burn. This would allow you much more range in the temperature adjustment, and ultimately allow you to lower the temperature, and greatly increase overall burn time per hopper load.

Cool beans dude good ideas I’m with plex guy on moving the hopper to the opposite end for better flow, the air is trying to move above the flame as it heats up open entry. But you need to seal the top of the hopper cause eventually, as you can see by the smoke coming out there, the flame will move up the hopper

How much $is a bag of pellets

Can you build a big "wood log loader" for logs with Ø 4-6" and a lenght 4-5 ft. ? xD with the same princip? 'That would be cool :P Is much more cheaper?! If you live in the woods

Looks like your burner plate design leaves no place for the burnt ash to fall away into the stove as it burns, so it eventually chokes out its own air supply. Most of these do not rest the angled plate directly on the bottom of the inlet pipe. They leave a small gap at the bottom and as ash works its way to the bottom of the angled plate, the river of air flowing along under the plate helps blow it into the stove. They have and angled mesh or hooks pointing upward at the end of the angled plate to hold the pellets from simply falling into and clogging that lower river of air. Or You need the angled burn grate to extend into the stove farther(with the same hooked grate at the end) so the ash falls off the bottom end into the stove, like it does when you push in the burn plate. Opening the front door vent makes no sense and I am not understanding why the grate does not clog even faster with less draw/air in thru the pellet burner. The open door vent will also send more of your warm tent air up the chimney to be replaced by cold outside air thru every opening in the tent. All of your pellet burner air should come from a duct that extends outside the tent. The first year I put in a pellet stove I was terribly disappointed with the warmth in the house until I realized it was pumping a tremendous volume of room air up the chimney and sucking in cold air from every crack in the structure. Once I brought that combustion air in directly from outside and brought in a second outside air source to feed the heat exchanger with fresh outside air and pressurize the house with warm fresh air, my comfort level went up tremendously. Thanks for sharing your testing.

I don't hear a rocket? The air should be restricted all the way throughthe force should pull the ashes from the burn chamber down into the pan

Death trap.

Браконьер

my homemade rocket stove self feeding pellets and wood chips or combined had it yesterday burning at 1100F no problem with plugging i have air all around the burner plus a secondary one bellow it and then the ashes bellow that , the longer the burn the less heat you make , the stove is an old oil hot water heater with a flue inside it the fire and exhaust goes up to the top then forced back down inside and exits at the bottom to another flue pipe it's still about 225F there