Agreed. Far more are hifi listeners than mixers.

where can I get this soundproofing paint? I'm also in the market for some tone plastic....

His logic is a bit wrong for sound proofing. That door acts like a speaker membrane. It's probably hallow core to top it off. Some sound that hits it on one side sure, does get blocked. But, the majority of it just goes through a frequency change and sound deeper.

how is now?

provide the results bro

Podcast? Is it in German? I have not found a podcast by Jesco but sure would love it. He has a great way of explaining complex subjects in an easy to digest format.

@@RecordProducerRob Check the playlist.. Its there.. :) its in English

But how?

Exactly. I'm trying to isolate my bedroom from noise, both from the street and from flatmates, and I think ventilation that lets air in and out, but not noise, is going to be a challenge. Especially when I have only one room to work with (if I had the whole apartment, I could place an air conditioner and air vents far away from my bedroom, and just pipe air in through some duct silencers or something.

HALLELUYAH!(PRAISE YE YAH!) Keep HIS Commandments or you can't make HIS Kingdom(Revelations 22:14).

One of the Best Ideas of SoundProofing is "SoundProof Curtains" it actually Block outside Noise coming from Windows. Check Here: livesoundproof.com/best-soundproof-curtains/

Ricardo, Sonarworks is great but you need to make sure your monitor system has enough power. For example I wouldn't recommend it to anyone using 5" monitors. The reason for that is those monitors are almost all excessively ported due to the under-sized enclosures, and they are usually marginally powered. Sonarworks needs the amplification to be able to provide clean power at the frequencies where the speaker is least effective ...and then there's also the room to compensate for.

Totally agree!!!! of course...plug all into the amp or mixer...problem solved. However playing guitar in a soundproof room is not a bad idea..

@@jasper_north Yeah, but you can do the loud stuff when the rest of the house is not sleeping. :)

+1

Thank you! I was thinking the SAME thing about that sound vibrates an object (walls) and turning the wall in to a speaker. So, really; shouldn't putting a bunch of sound absorbing materials (like panels) in the room where the sound is being generated help stop the sound from transferring to other rooms? The panels would absorb sound which lowers the DBs in the room. They would also stop the sound in the room from echoing IN the room. Both of which I'd think would lower the amount of wall vibration which is like you said, what makes the sound "leak" to other rooms. I'm just dealing with a loud housemate that is on conference calls 3-8 hours a day. I'm thinking of covering his ceiling in sound absorbing panels. (Because I'm above his room.) Maybe scatter some on his walls also and on the door. (It's hallow core of course.) If only there was a way to do the same for ventilation ducts. ... I can't open the vent in my room and have to keep a pillow in front of it. 😞

@@OgdenM I think Jesco is just trying to make a clear distinction between soundproofing and room treatment and keep things simple to avoid confusion. Which is of course the best approach when there are people new to acoustic concepts relying on him for rock solid information. Of course, hanging panels is not the right approach to soundproofing if you have the option of doing it properly. But if you don’t have that option, of course it will make an improvement. I can’t say how much it would help, my guess is “a bit” but theoretically what you say is correct. If you can stop sound bouncing around the room you also reduce the amount of sound energy than can then vibrate the walls and travel through ducts. With enough panels hanging around you are soaking up some of that energy before it has a chance to interact with anything else, but of course only at higher frequencies.

It shouldn't make a noticeable difference either way since the low end is huge in size and will reach the other room regardless, you can and should test this yourself by setting the monitors in both places and getting out of the room with the door shut, will the difference be noticeable at all with your particular context? probably not.

@@808lilmac thx buddy!

@@808lilmac yes, it would only make a difference if the speakers were physically touching the wall or the stands were transmitting the bass to the floorboards.

Almost none

Green glue and quietrock 545

Sonopan then drywall

Uh, you're in an apartment. Complain to the management.

Ironically - I couldn’t hear it!

Me on my phone speakers - Ah yes definitely heard that 6 db difference

if you didn't watch the video on proper speakers/headphones there's no way you heard 63hz

Try some headphones. It is there but it is low.

You can also add a thick composite glass, seal it inside over your window and get a really nice sound barrier.

Yes but this is also the only video on his channel where he doesn't discuss sound absorption and purely focuses on soundproofing, if you haven't noticed. It's kinda taken for granted that you also will treat the sound inside the room, given what the rest of his videos are all about.

What you said at the end here, if I have it right, is incorrect. Multiple alternating layers of high mass rigid material followed by soft porous material, then high-mass, porous, high-mass, etc., actually reduces STC and is called 'triple leaf' in the business. The best sound blocker is a resonant cavity like conventional concrete block wall. Most people don't go to that extreme, so, that leaves drywall. The space between the inner and outer walls should be as large as possible and filled with rock wool or fiberglass insulation. You can put more layers of drywall on the inner or outer walls as you like, but NEVER have more than one inner and outer wall.

bla bla bla, what I say is 100% percent correct, what you say is just junk...

I would say just don't listen to him most of it is geared towards a studio and much of it is misleading anyway. You don't need everything air tight and you don't need to block every frequency 100%. Even some heavy curtains will have a huge effect on outside noise. Closing up the windows is important but you don't have to make the room air tight. You can put curtains on the door as well, and a large piece of plywood in front of the door covered with cloth will also help. Putty pads on the electrical outlets. The problem with flatmates is that there is no insulation between indoor walls so that is a problem, but maybe you can get some in the walls somehow anyway.

@@LTPottenger dunno if you have experience working with people who are extremely sensitive to sound, but while it is true some sounds are much more bearable than others (say, I can tolerate fan noises if they are moderately loud, I also don't have problem with rain and even thunderstorm sounds), but other sounds are much more distracting and have big negative impact on my ability to fall asleep or to focus at work. The worst offender is speech, even coming from a radio or music with vocals. My brain is just unable to ignore such sounds, and it always has to divert its attention to them when they are audible. Animal sounds (birds, barking dogs) are also bad. Then there are sounds like train horns, church bells, ambulances, etc. that are annoying, but luckily infrequent enough. Some frequent and annoying sounds also include doors slamming, flushing toilets, and door locks locking and unlocking. My flatmates go to work around 4-5 a.m. and that's an hour when I can just give up on trying to fall asleep. There's also the category of sounds that don't happen every day, but when they do, they're quite bad (long and really annoying), such as lawnmowers. I'm not 100% sure what sound frequencies are covered by these noises - I suppose most of them are mid to high frequencies, but not all of them. So I suppose a solution that blocks high and mid range frequencies may be good enough to have a big impact on my life quality. However, when it comes to air tightness, I have to disagree - I have double-pane PVC-frame windows, and they have the option to seal them air-tight, unseal them (they still appear closed, but let some air through), or open them. And when it comes to outside noise, there's a huge difference between the sealed and unsealed state. I can sleep without earplugs when they are sealed airtight, but when they are unsealed or open I have to use earplugs to fall asleep, mostly because of the birds making a lot of noise for hours upon hours. But, the air quality gets quite bad here, especially in winter (since the flat was designed such that the only way to exchange air is by opening windows), so I'm looking for ways to add mechanical ventilation with some sound muffling, which will hopefully be better than open or unsealed windows. Right now I think a decentralized recuperator (also known as a wall recuperator) might be what I need, as it is designed to ventilate a single room, and the air passes through filters and the heat exchanger before going into or out of the room, so this should hopefully block some outside noise. As for noises from flatmates, I've ordered an airtight door for my bedroom (basically a solid exterior door) with a new frame, and I hope it'll make a good difference. I might consider hanging some thick blankets over it if it's not enough. I have reason to believe the walls aren't a problem here, though. They are thick, solid walls. I know some walls are brick and mortar, other walls are concrete and rebar, but all walls around my bedroom are around 30 cm (12 inches) thick, load bearing walls in an apartment building, so they should block noise quite well. I assume wall soundproofing makes much more sense for people who have thin interior walls of gypsum boards and wooden frames. Also, as far as I can tell, when my flatmates are very loud in the room bordering my bedroom, I can't hear anything through the wall (maybe the furniture is helping too, as a big wardrobe covers most of the wall on their side). But I can hear everything from the corridor, and the bathroom which isn't even bordering my bedroom. So that makes me believe that the door is the main culprit and perhaps sealing it will make a big difference. But again, I need to solve air ventilation issues, or else I'm going to seal myself in a room with zero air exchange, unless I open the doors and windows which negates the soundproofing.

@@Tennouseijin Vibration noises and low frequency are very hard to block, but that is not what it sounds like you deal with aside from the doors opening and shutting. It is better to close doors and windows but most people deal with a particular problem so you don't need to seal the whole room. But it sounds like you get it from inside and out which is a problem. I put heavy curtains of multiple layers on a large window in my bedroom and I can still open it without much noise coming in so it can help a lot. I also have multiple layer curtain over the door and when I close it up to record it's as silent as a tomb, where it used to cause recording issues. But your situation and sensitivity is going to be unique as all these cases are that's why one size seldom fits all.

@@LTPottenger Oh, and when I say wall recuperator, I mean something like the Mitsubishi Electric Lossnay VL-100, one with an input and an output channel. I looked into different kinds of wall recuperators, and some work by alternating between pushing and pulling air, and that I'm worried would be bad for my case (I'm sure the switching would be audible), not to mention I looked at the numbers and it seems like it would create ~20 hPa of pressure difference every minute, which when I asked my father for opinion he said it's guaranteed to cause headaches. Though I'm considering building a DIY recuperator, since they're not that complex to build and I've found some instructions and videos. So I could tailor it to my needs, with perhaps more focus on silent fans and sound mufflers for outside noise, for example. The heat exchanger would be nice, but actually isn't necessary in this system, considering I only need enough air exchange for a single person, so the energy losses apparently aren't that big even in winter. But still a nice DIY project, I'm looking into.

@@LTPottenger I suppose curtains are affordable enough (especially if you don't care about the looks), some people suggest moving blankets. I might hang some on the door and windows once I solve the ventilation issue and see if it helps. I'm wary since it's not exactly an airtight solution, but I suppose it might still help to some degree, and if anything it should also act as sound dampening, perhaps making noise less annoying even if not scientifically speaking quieter. In any case, thanks for trying to help. Ultimately I'd love to just move out and build a house in a quiet area, and design it from the grounds up for my needs, but for the time being I'm stuck in this apartment and have to make it bearable. I hope when I move out and rent out the bedroom, the new inhabitant will appreciate the quality silence ;)

Or a nice long holiday

Yes ok - concrete stairs would be better than wooden stairs. But even better would be concrete covered with carpet. Perfect!

He said he isn't a sound proofing specialist. From my understanding of how sound works, he's utterly wrong about not using absorbing materials to lessen that amount of sound generated IN a room from being transmitted OUT of the room. Rooms are like the inside of a speaker box. Sound echos around in them until it finds ways out. The ways out are air gaps AND by vibrating the walls which turn them into speakers. (Think of a subwoofer) It's my understanding that hanging up sound absorbing stuff ON the walls, ceiling and floor in side a room where noise is generated will absorb sound BEFORE it hits the walls or find air holes. It will also serve to lessen the DB of the sound in the room and therefor lessen the amount that gets out of the room. It will also serve to quiet the sound in the room to the people that are in it. It will ALSO serve to isolate the room sound wise from rest of the house. Reflecting sound BACK into the room is just gonna turn it into a miserable echo chamber like the concrete bunker he talked about.

Tf…