It really took every ounce of discipline to NOT skip areas with the MLV, stuff is HEAVY and a pain! But I would have regretted it once the sheetrock was up and never been satisfied. Acoustic treatment and a screen are at the top of the list now 🙌 thanks or the recognition!!!

Thank you!

@@DougVentures You’re welcome 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

Merry Christmas man! Thanks and glad it was worth the watch!

If you do just get it done bit by bit. One thing I learned through this is it doesn't have to be all at once! Just have a goal and try not to buy anything you know you'll just upgrade down the road. One nice speaker vs. A whole set of halfway speakers.....why spend twice 🤷‍♂️ just takes patients 😬 which is hard to come by sometimes!

Really appreciate that! Keeping it somewhat simple design wise allowed me to spend more time on the detail for sure. Just buy one big speaker and you'll be motivated to start yours, I promise! Lol. Thanks again!

Thanks you!!!! Still say that to myself every time I walk in the room lol

If you watch the dates I had it in my head to be done by Christmas lol, some parts took way more elbow grease than I thought, but I would absolutely do it again if I had the choice! Thank you! 🙏🎉

I had to leave SOME room for upgrades haha. I am making a Diffuser for the rear wall and everything in the room was hand made, so it's still got some additions coming there, using the mirror trick to find the best placement but still keep a clean look. The room is wired for in wall speakers, the LRC channels come down between wall studs of the front wall in place for in walls, and the left and right surrounds are placed already where i would recess the speakers, but the screen and acoustics treatment will be first set of upgrades once I feel the need 👍 none of the recessed speakers matched the sound quality of the Klipsch reference series without blowing up the budget, plus I'm no expert at acoustics yet so this is all a learning experience. Bass being "boomy" is an issue in the outer seats closer to the walls. I'm working on that at the moment too. Suggestions welcome 🙏

I did look at both, the hat channel and sound clips would have had a slightly better deadening quality for the bass. My problems with it were between the greatly added depth for wall outlets and switches, which still have to mount to the wall studs and protrude past all the channel and hardware...and the added chance that with that much flexibility I would quickly develop cracks in the paint. I went with RS1 because it just worked better for me basically, might not have been THE best way to go but from where i was sitting it eliminated the chances of many headaches and problems down the road. Still does the job very well in my opinion and because I chose plastering the walls I have peace of mind that they won't move so much with bass that the corners start crumbling. The plaster added mass for a bit more sound absorption and created a really smooth look and 5 months in with no issues yet. Still have fear of a crack starting somewhere but that's slowly fading now 😅🤞

That was the goal, we have retired neighbors and my wife goes to bed early, I didn't want to have to be cautious on the volume at night and it worked. Candy falling off the rack from the sound and nobody outside the room can here more than a faint hint of anything. Goal accomplished. As long as you listen to everything they say about the install of both the mlv and the channel. Notice the putty around the outlets and tight seal in the window inserts. Patience indeed but it does pay off!

@@DougVentures Nice job on the install... I was considering the MLV, Channel and 2 layers of Drywall also. MLV is so expensive here in Australia.

It wasn't inexpensive here either but I'm sure out there it must be crazy. Shipping wasn't cheap either! I did a lot of hunting and found the best deal I could, also fun when the delivery driver was unloading and couldn't believe how heavy they were. They aren't kidding when they warn you about it!

If you look at the diagrams I have halfway through the video I had designed it with two rows in mind, thinking 3 recliners in the main row and a sectional in the front row would be enough but we have a big family and friends with kids so the third row was a "late addition" to the room and it works. the main riser is a 12" lift and the third row riser is only 7" but it does the job. If the second row isn't reclined a little it's not quite enough but everyone reclines when watching so it hasn't been an issue yet 👍

All from Bob's Discount Furniture, 3 in the middle row called their "Premium leather power recliner" and a matching love seat for the third row, they have massage, heat, power headrest, checked all the boxes... I've seen the Valencia series and others as the go-tos but these we could sit in before we bought, they came in a lighter color, and all together came out to less than most of the other options, with no compromises on quality of feel and options. Armrests with storage, lighting all over it, and reclines back (too far) so you're flat if you want...happy with them for the look and the purpose for sure! Couch in the front from Bob's as well for lazy Sundays when we want to lay sideways lol

@@DougVentures thank you for the reply. I am looking for seats for my theater. I was looking at some of the offerings from seatcraft and heated and massage are features I want.

Those are very nice looking seats! I had them on my radar as well but the only two things that kept me from going that route was that I couldn't sit in them and the ship time had me worried, I looked at them on 4seating.com and I was close but i went into a bobs store and mine were the first thing you see when you walk in, reviews help but sitting in it and being able to measure where the plugs are and see the color in person made me feel better before going for it. Just my opinion and the seatcrafts could have out done these but until I can sit in one I'll never know. Good luck!

@@DougVentures totally understand. I believe their is a Seacraft store in San Antonio and that is pretty close to me because I live in Austin. I may have to take a trip out there. Also it appears Bob's doesn't deliver to my area. Those are some nice seats you have though.

Sorry but I do think "Bob's" is a semi local place here in the northeast, if you have a seatcraft store near you by all means get there and try them! Sure you won't be disappointed but better safe than sorry with such a big investment!

Lol it did go over my budget but from start to finish with a lot of the small things included like outlet covers and door hardware, etc....came to just over $30k....I hired painters and a drywall guy to hang and plaster the sheetrock....beyond that all the labor was free and it still went over my initial $25k estimate but we'll worth it and sort of expected.

I am! But still undecided on size and shape, the projector can zoom and fill the wall more with movies at 2.39:1 (widescreen) but if I'm watching TV or games at 16:9 my top to bottom space is limited so I'd have to zoom back out. Some projectors do this automatically and I'm not sure if mine can. I have a middle of the road BenQ and it may but still fine tuning everything audio wise and getting a screen will be once I feel the need. Plenty of brightness and clarity just on a plastered and painted wall at the moment!

Given that here is more and more IMAX format and some nuanced ones… I’d go with 16:9. I ended up with one that’s acoustically transparent and it’s amazing! Depended on your budget, look at Seymour motorized masking (you get both aspect ratios).

Good to know!!!! I would love the option of both without a big white boarder. I've seen some people build blackout inserts or panels to cover the excess screen on top and bottom when it's in wide screen format but I don't want the extra steps to install and remove them when I switch, I'll look them up today!

It's 8' from the screen to the front of the seat, 10-10.5' to where the viewer's head rests, very emersive but not too big to enjoy. The second row is the primary viewing spot by design, less emersive at 15-16' but still great, especially for 2.35:1 movies where you can zoom the projector a bit and fill the gaps on the sides, third row on the small riser loses the emersive look being 21-22' from the screen, way too far unless you have a two story wall to use!

Good point!! Well it was intended to be a budget room, the people I DID have to hire comp[leted the sheetrock (4 full days) , paint (3 Days), plaster (3 days), and some of the more intricate stages of the framing like the bulkhead around the top, for those things we paid about $15K in labor. Furniture $5k (three power recliners, one power loveseat, one couch) | HVAC parts($8K) | A/V equipment $6k. All other materials for room including insulation, carpet, building materials, doors(holy expensive), and electrical work(outlets, smart dimmer, wiring, etc.) added up to about another $15k we are into it for $49K all together. A true budget build could save you about half of that, HVAC already installed, furniture, less insulation, doors, etc... aren't always a need when building a room but this was a dusty dirty garage so those numbers are inflated due to the amount of change and cleaning and time to fit everything.....hope this helps and any questions I'm here!

Before was 22'W and 30'L, after walls it is 18'W and 28'L. Took big chunk out of the width on the left side (facing the screen) to make it a narrow hall for the audio equipment and breaker boxes for the house and some closet space.

Also started with 8' ceilings, removed the joists and raised it to 10' (122') from the concrete floor, lost 4" with flooring and resilient channel and sheetrock so carpet to finished ceiling is 118"now

@@DougVentures I understand! We're building a new home... Currently working with the builder regarding the theater footprint... Combining Media and Game room into one big room.. Raising the ceilings from 9 to 13ft. Current configuration is 22.3x33.9x13... After, we finished next year the theater will be 20x27x12... Building a vestibule and comms/equipment closet like yours. Thanks again for your insight!

@@DougVentures So, resilient channel in ceiling and floor or just ceiling and side walls?

That's perfect! Great size room and it's a must to have a hidden space for the equipment. Channel was just the four walls, ceiling and "bulkheads"around the top. Anywhere sheetrock would be screwed to a stud. It's really pretty basic once you understand it. Bass is like your fist hitting the wall, so if you pound on a wall stud it's audible in other rooms, but separate it with something and it stops the sound at the sheetrock. The floor all I could do is add a DRICORE layer....tiles that add padding and moisture protection before padding and carpet. Seems to have worked. Hope yours comes out nice, you're in the right place on KZfaq because I took most of my ideas from here