Not to mention it would probably cost more to make than it would to buy one.

Thanks very much!

Me too!

It's funny, I still see myself as a beginner too. Only really been doing it for a couple of years, so I don't think 48 is too late to start. I've found hobby engineering (or whatever you'd call it) pretty pleasant since there's plenty of good clear information out there. Wish I could say the same for 3d modelling... I'll probably look into the youtube subtitles feature for the next video I make.

I live near Blaydon. Glad it's noticeable!

$$$$ way less then store bought.

It might take more time than most people have, but I do feel it was alot cheaper than buying an equivalent model would've been (outside of a fluke bargain). The cheaper model spindle sanders have small tables that don't tilt, and the spindles are limited in height. This is all stuff that can be altered but I figure once you do that it's probably not much extra effort to just build one from scratch. It took me just over a week to build this thing, and a large amount of the delay was spent waiting for the steady rest to arrive (which didn't work out like I was hoping either). Plus the nice thing about something like this is that I'm free to muck it up. I'll be drilling holes into the table at some point in the future for mounting attachments, and i'm not sure if id be as comfortable doing that if i'd just dropped several hundred pounds on a nice cast iron deal.

The wires are mostly all covered with electrical tape (just the spade plugs on the switch are left bare since I ran out of big shrink tubing) and dust should hopefully not reach the inside of the box anyways. But thanks for the concern.

It's the "mostly" and "helpfully" that give the most to be concerned about, from your accent, I detect that you run 230 Volts there, that's DANGEROUS, and if there is no Grounding, you're in danger of Static Electric too that can ark/spark!

Thanks for the comment! I mostly buy tools as I need them, and they're usually the cheapest of their kind available (or good luck at boot sales). I do have a battery powered drill now, but i've found that it doesn't have the torque to really drive screws, so i'm still using the ratchet screwdriver. A better quality impact driver or something would be nice, but I don't really have the money to spare on buying one just for the convenience. Also sorry about the voice. I have a hard time getting a balance between being more understandable but also not sounding too much like a depressing robot. Plus I just talk like an idiot in general. Recording audio is my least favourite part of making videos. I usually write what i'm saying beforehand since i'm not great at coming up with commentary unprepared, and then read each line at least 3 times. Then I get to enjoy listening to myself talk for 2 hours while I try select the best takes, join different takes together, and edit out dry mouth sounds. I guess the results don't seem great, but I still think it's better than me trying to talk naturally (like in that terrible tablesaw video).

Thanks for the lengthy reply. I share your approach to acquiring tools, I always look to see if I can improvise, modify or make something before parting with cash - I manage on a minuscule pension. The same goes for materials; it amazes me what people throw out, and which I can put to good use in my workshop. A week ago, I found in the street two 8 X 4 sheets of a plastic material, precisely what I needed for mounting a wall chart amongst other applications. Would have cost a good £30 in a shop. Re the language; try imagining that you are talking to foreigners (because in large part you are) and make the words distinct. I agree that voicing from a script is a good idea, it will minimise irritating gap-fillers such as 'um', 'er' and so on. But this is all minor stuff - you produced a superb video, thanks.

+Simon Heslop I am amazed at your foresight in making a sheet metal bender BEFORE you actually needed one. ;o)

Nah, you put them teeth facing forwards so you can lean your whole body into the cut. When cutting metal you generally want Generous Pressure and a Somewhat Tensioned blade. If they're snagging its probably because the blade is too coarse or worn out and missing teeth - which happens fast if you're using too coarse a blade for the material (thin walled tube is particularly hard on hacksaws since it goes back and forth between thick and thin cuts). If it's kinking too easily then the blade tension is probably too low and the frame might not be capable of reaching a good tension. With decent quality blades I feel you’ll almost always bend the frame before you risk breaking the blade. Those Japanese saws are best suited for flush cutting things like dowels or joint overlaps. At least the commonly available and affordable ones I’ve seen are. Their whole design is optimized for that task with features such as minimal tooth set, a broad blade, and a wedge/ slightly hook shaped head to try gain some cutting pressure as you pull. But those features tend to make them unideal for other tasks such as cutting tenons, where having a parallel blade helps for keeping the cut level, or rip cuts where the lack of a set can get the blade stuck in cringe type wood. But I think that’s one of real the problem with saws, or hand tools in general. Is that since you’re providing all the Power, you tend to notice the sub-optimal parts of each design as it’s employed for the wrong kind of cut… and it’s easy to get lost spending too much money trying to overcome that. Then you turn into a dreaded Tool Collector.

@@dangrundel With the Teeth facing forward, the Blade is never Tensioned. The harder you push on it, the less tension will be in the Blade. Think about it (as you obviously haven't tried it), the Teeth are gripping the metal on the forwards stroke, you're pushing on the Handle, so the Blade is under Compression, not Tension. That's why the Blades buckle and kink so easily, no matter how much you tighten the Frame. It's also obvious that you've never used the Wood Pull-Saws, they perform beautifully for ALL types of cuts on all Woods.

@@Docv400 If you can't tension your blade enough to prevent it buckling then the problem may be in your frame. Setting a hacksaw up to cut on the pull stroke will make it difficult to put the required pressure down into the cut when cutting through thicker or harder materials, or with a blade that isn't brand new and completely sharp.

@@dangrundel There is nothing wrong with any of my Hacksaw Frames, from the cheapest, to the most expensive. All Frames flex to some extent, but the beauty of having the Blade backwards is that the amount of flex in the Frame doesn't affect it. You can even use a Blade without a Frame if it's cutting on the Backstroke, try that with the Blade the 'right' way round and see how far you get! Have you never heard the term; "Let the Tool do the work"? You don't have to put lots of pressure on a Blade, no matter the Hardness of the Material, it can only cut a certain amount of Material on each Stroke, loading it up more than necessary will only dull the Blade quicker. My Blades stay sharp for much longer than they did for the 20 yrs or so I used them the 'right' way round. As for the Thickness of the Material, how on Earth does that affect things? The Blade doesn't know how thick it is, does it? If it take 100 strokes to cut through 2mm of a given cross-section (for example) then it'll take 200 strokes to cut through a piece that's twice that thickness. You just keep on using your Blades the way they have been since they were invented. Don't bother trying it yourself. I'll keep using them the way I have since trying it, around three Decades ago, and found it to be better in every possible way. The manufacturers obviously know best, and there's never any way to improve Tools. Why on Earth would they want people buying Blades more often than they have to . . .

+Hashem Mehyar I'm guessing but I would say that a window motor is not spec'ed for continuous operation and would therefore likely burn out in this application.

Tony Colliver I actually tried it, drilled holes on the motor sides for cooling, used an 8-V supply, and tested it for half an hour no-load. it got warm but it's very tolerable. The most i've used my current spindle sander was 10 minutes, so it could work