Just did this, this morning. Great, helpful video. I pulled out the whole air box and only disconnected the one hose going into the intake hose because all the smaller hoses were seized on.

This was really helpful and I did it today my self and it worked like a charm. Thank you for posting the video.

I did it my self. The rubber intake boot is only $20 bucks , At the dealer $250 plus tax parts and labor to get it done.

Thanks, this fixed my acceleration issue.

Thanks to this video I did it! It was my first time to ever work on my car even an oil change.

Just did my 2015. The rip was at the throttle body side towards the firewall so it was not easy to see it but was half the circumference long. During strong acceleration when the engine moved in a specific way, the hole opened up resulting in a major hesitation and hickup. No error codes. Had 8.3L/100km in the city which I thought was a little too high. Will see, now, that it is fixed, if it runs more efficiently.

Great job man. Just one tip: use silicon spray when removing rubber parts, you'll see how easier the job is.

I would recommend to clean trottlebody on the inside as well the mof sensor if you doing this work it’s will make car run better

This guy's accent is off the charts

I did mine and the sluggish issues still continue but almost slightly different than before. My initial symptoms came on about a week ago, and they were sluggish acceleration about 2/3 of the time from a stop and then accelerating and just slower, and it got reallly noticed on turns after being at a stop. It reminded me of when i first bought the car back in late 2020 but that time around it also had a slight wheel jerk and sound added to the sluggish acceleration that seemed eapecially pronounced on turns after being at a stop. The thing that happened 4 years ago I got lucky with as I bought the car used at a dealership and it had a 2 week warranty. They found my cause was I needed to have my torque converter replaced and they did have it replaced and paid the bill for the torque converter to be fixed at a Honda Dealership down the road from them. This time around it is having almost the identical sluggish issues that seem most pronounced intermittently at turns. After today when the hose and air filter was replaced it seemed to get better for a minute but than started up again. But didnt seem as sluggish for the most part as it did before the replacement of the cracked hose. But there was one time today on a turn where it got worse than any of the instances in the last week where I was really testing it by doing fast turns and on one of those turns was a left turn from a stop light where i had a green arrow going onto a freeway on ramp and at last second some dipshit from oncoming traffic cut me off and did a slow right turn and then went super slow onto the on-ramp so i had to slow down but when i had to brake you could really feel a major jolt because of instead of giving a weak acceleration more gas I had to brake on it instead to slow down and then after that instance it ran back and forth between way smoother after stops than anytime it ran before i replaced the hose in the last week to also being a little sluggish also but in most cases not as bad as the last week with the exception of where the one dipshit got in my way. My transmission fluid is pink, doesnt smell weird to my knowlege as the fluid was changed 5 months ago about 40,000 miles after it was all replaced when they put the new torque converter in. My 2013 Civic has 165k on the odometer, I bought it with 110k on the odometer, and it has ran pretty dang good after the torque converter was replaced pretty much right after I first bought the. This is infuriating me. I thought I hit a gold mine when i found the crack in the hose yesterday after watching this video is what prompted me to check the hose and sure enough found 2 cracks in it and thought good, not torque converter again. I guess what my question is is has anyone noticed my exact symptoms , like especially at turns but also while accelerating from straight stops too?? Did anyone do this fix and experience these symptoms like I am where the sluggishness is there still but for the most part something different about the sluggishness?? And if you did how long did it take to go away?? I drove the vehicle on and off many times running a bunch of errands and doing activities after throughout the rest of the day and this has been my experience for it all day since the fix. Again my car is throwing zero codes from the cheap OBD Scanners from Oreilly so I guess if there isnt a somewhat signifigant amount of time to give it for the computer for it to reset itself what other direction should I be looking?? I put about another additional 50 miles on the vehicle today after the fix and i watched the person who did it for me and they did it identical to how exactly you did it and he seemed to tighten everything very well and the finished product looks identical to yours. Does the computer need more time to reset?? Should i disconnect the battery and try that??? I have a feeling that wont change squat. I couldnt see any other cracked hoses. Thank You

6:21 I was not able to disengage the air cleaner housing grommet from the stud because later was hardened from the engine heat, so I managed to put new hose by squeezing its bellows.

Hey I had a shop do this, and they are a pretty well reviewed and trust shop. Everything looked good but while detailing my engine bay this morning I noticed there is some like, sludge or grease or something on the LOWER intake tubing (the non ripped one that LEADS TO THE AIRBOX from the grill) on the side where it connect to the airbox. Im a bit puzzled as to why they would do this, it's not tight and kinda comes right off if I pull at it.

apply some battery corrosion jelly to those battery terminals and use corrosion X on all the fasteners to prevent rust and it will be alot easier to remove later Al.

Really fun to do in the winter without a heated garage... was going to change the tranny filter, but the hoses are too tight and too cold. Save that for the summer...

thank u very very much i just notice my hose is ripped from both side and after i replaced it solved P0420 catalyst system efficiency below threshold civic 2013 hatchback

Thanks for the video. How did you remove the sensor plug? Having a hard time removing it. Do you need to compress anything prior pulling it off or using any special tools? Thanks.

Thank u for this video. I was wondering how to pull that air is out

exact thing happened to my 2013 honda civic.

Best to put the air filter in the air box while it is removed. The Dorman hose fit over the airbox is tight, it is best to stretch it on like an undersized military grade condom and then install the clamp, a bit of silicone lube helps. A good hose clamp is helpful over the OEM and garbage Dorman clamps. A bit of grease on the airbox lower rubber mount will make it easier next time. Like you stated, it's a pretty annoying design to service, no wonder they lost the war lol.

You're awesome brother! 👊

Ive seen so many of these with the break in that exact spot

Honda should have a recall on this intake hose. It seems like this happens to all 9th generation. Same flaw like all other videos here of the same generation. I just replaced my wife’s(2015 civic) and the cut is exactly at the same spot. Who knows how long it’s been like that? I noticed it was choking a bit when accelerating. The cut wasn’t visible and not an easy find. My other 20yr old Toyota car doesn’t have this issue. I lost the rubber grommet at the back of the air filter assembly during installation and who knows where it went. I put everything back without it lol.

Hi! I have a 2012 civic, I did exactly what you did, changed the exact same part and i used the exact same replacement you used, dorman, but i have a question, once i did the change the vsa, check engine and power steering lights turned on, i turned on and off the car 3 times and all 3 came off, but the car now has delays when i accelerate, feels like it drowns, and hesitate a lot when it shifts (is automatic), i just want to know if thats normal and will fix itself with time or the car has issues… thanks btw…

Never thought a little hose was going to such pain is ass!

Changed mine on my 2012 and encountered the same issue. Clamp at throttle body snapped and I gave up on trying to get that air cleaner out lol.

Any video on cleaning the throttle body on these Civics? I can't find any. I can on both the older, newer, and the si's but not this style. Looking to see what I need to do to clean it while the hoses are off.

Thank You! Honda quoted me 270!

Is there a way to diy test to make sure there aren’t any other broken hoses/tubes?

Like the way you work

How did u 15:12 fit the tube in. I can’t do it properly I only got half way in but the bottom is coming out. I tightened it up but is it gonna come out when I drive

What are symptoms of this being broken? Are there any? Mine is cracked too

The hose is too narrow for the air filter box. How did you slide it on? Any tips ?

Probably all the times I changed the air filter and forced the hose is what causes the tear

Brother, let me ask. How many inches is the screen installed on the car? Thank you.

I have the same crack was yours throwing a code that was related to your evap? I have an EVAP code and I change the purge solenoid but the one that I changed seems to be working fine in the new one was making a ticking noise when I replaced it so I put the old one back on. I also have a p420 code saying that my catalytic converter is below threshold. Last year I use cataclean and it made the light go away this year it doesn't seem like it wants to go away when I put the cataclean in.

found mine torn the other day, have to replace mine,,,,,your brake fluid looks low :)

7/32 or 5.5

Would this cause CEL to come on?

Thank God Saturn is only a memory. Terrible engineering