As video was posted two years ago I wasn't going to comment, but, as others may look for 'Honda CB360 clutch' I thought it best to point out a few things. It's easier to use the screwdriver to 'open' the slot in kick start lever, there shouldn't be any need to pry it off even if rusty when slot is opened. You did the right thing by completely removing bolt as it's an 'extra safety feature' when it fits into the cutaway in kick start shaft. Externally, I don't see anything wrong with clutch cover, you removed dip-stick and there isn't obvious damage. There are two pressed in plugs in the oil galleries but they will never fall out as they are tapered and staked in place You wrong about dipstick damaging gear, the idler gear was probably broken by incorrect assembly, at 16:23 and 19:33 you show the same problem of gears not meshed but tightened cover down which is a common problem and main reason for the gear tooth damage. The shaft the idler runs on also transfers oil into clutch cover to the centrifugal oil filter (which is far more efficient than any paper filter ever) The 'knock pin' on the inside of it must be properly located in crankcase, fitting gear after assembling filter to crank makes life unnecessarily difficult. Reassembling the oil transfer piece, it's a really good move to modify it to increase oil flow, the main reason 250 and 360 has cam oiling issues is the inlet to centrifugal filter is much larger than the outlet around rim of transfer piece. Here's a link on how to modify it, 350 is easier to do as it has a removable cover on the clutch cover but principle is exactly the same on the 360 www.vintagehondatwins.com/forums/index.php?threads/cb350-oil-transfer-piece-with-pictures-also-applies-to-cb250.3603/

There a part 4 coming? Hope the project is going great!

LOL what a pile of crap show.