Good looking 76. They’re the lowest production model, of the fold down bar CT70’s. For others working on a similar project, I like to start with checking the stator. Unplug the engine from the harness. There is a black wire exiting the engine. Connect a jumper wire to that black wire. Take the other end of the jumper and scratch it against the engine case, as you’re cranking over the engine. If you get sparks, everything behind the flywheel is good. No sparks….probably the points need cleaned. Once you have spark at engine, bypass the harness and connect engine directly to coil. That’s done by connecting the jumper wire to the black wire of engine and the black wire by battery box that goes down to coil. You now have eliminated the harness and any problems it might have. With engine and coil hooked directly, check for spark at spark plug. If the engine has spark, but none at plug, the issue is in coil. The coil needs to be grounded with the engine thru the frame. If rust has built up on coil mount, it may have lost ground connection. Remove, clean and reinstall. If still no spark, coil is most likely bad.

#1 There are resistor caps that prevent the spark noise from interfering with your radio. When you measure the secondary, take the cap off and measure directly to the wire. That's where you get the lower resistance number that you find in the book. #2 You should probably use a battery to test the coil rather than a trickle charger. What happens is, the voltage you apply (points closed) creates a magnetic field around the coil when the (points open) the field collapses and that's what creates the spark.

I'm still leaning to a bad condenser....