LoL look into their automatic transmission 😂

@@unclejoe6811 Best practice: buy one strapped to a manual.

@@unclejoe6811 I have a 2001 I bought with 54000 om it that wasn't giving me any trouble at 74000 miles. I took it in to get the fluid changed because I had heard they give trouble. They said something was weak on it and changed the whole transmission for free. I have changed the transmission fluid every 15000 miles since then and now have 240000 on the car with no issues.

@@unclejoe6811 the auto is what killed mine lol. I got to 189k on my 07 Accord, then the auto self destructed. Engine was still solid.

@@agenericaccount3935 agreed at least they didn't cheapen the manual like they did on the 01 Civic they lose input shaft bearings before the clutch.

This is how lol

heard it a couple videos ago i think, but only ever from this guy. great line

It’s one of his -isms. Gets used in about half the teardowns, usually when he finds “piston-adjusted valves”.

'piston mcnuggets' .. 'cash register engine' ..this one's got it all lol

@@SurelyYewJest right there with 'engine gapped spark plugs'

@@SurelyYewJest Often found in the same engines... "adjustable connecting rods".

boostedboiz did it first

@@espey5980 Yeah, but those guys are special ed stupid

I am surprised it ran long enough after it started to come apart to do all that damage.

@@kenmohler4081 It came apart in the northern third of the tach to do that much damage.

If it was a manual car they could have money shifted in to second from fifth wile trying to pass someone. Then left it in gear all the way to when it came to a stop.

I saw the wreck and immediately thought....."That will buff out".

Reminds me of my friend Johnny. One time, I saw him cut himself with a wrench. To this day, I'm still not sure how the hell he did that.

I know right? Such clickbait...

@@carnivorebear6582 practically anti-clickbait

Staying under 9k RPM helps too.

When she "Don't need no man..."

I'm betting one hell of a money shift

Ever heard the sound of two gears grinding? That's what mine sounded like after it punched a hole through the piston head and smashed the spark plug.

That engine just shut off on the freeway, absolutely no indication what happened to it… aside from the ear shattering explosion and the fact that my car sounds like a cash register making change..

Sum ting Wong. Bang ding ow.

It doesn't take much to keep a Honda V6 running for a long time. Oil was seriously lacking somewhere. I expected you might find a shredded timing belt, but no... that looked fine. Could you tell if it had been changed at some point, or did it appear original?

I was just watching a KZfaq car dude fixing a BMW engine and my God what a pain in the ass, those Germans sure like to make things difficult

@@dawicked2k8 yep I seen Audis with internal and external torx, internal hex, internal triple square, and 6 point and 12 point hex on the same engine

fetusflipper lmao that sounds like they are just trolling

@@zubirhusein Audi doesnt want you touching that engine. They want you paying their techs to touch it for you.

2GR-FE? 🤮

@@karlschauff7989 in terms of reliability, you literally can't kill those.

The last 20 years? They're probably the best V6s ever made!

@@hellkitty1014 Well, now it appears you can kill one of those - unless you're saying this one is down, but not out . . .

I firmly believe the 5VZ-FE was the best. 2GR-FE is a great engine but early ones had head gasket issues. Lack of power is the only thing about 5VZ-FE, however they respond REALLY WELL to power add-ons.

dont want to risk warping the bent head lol

🤦🏼

Just had one die on me at 307k miles. Should hear back from the machine shop to see if the one bad bearing damaged the crank beyond repair or not. If it can be repaired, I plan o repairing it and driving the car til I cant maintain it anymore. I assume with a proper rebuild the engine will outlast the chassis even if it is in good shape now.NNo rust, no major accidents, some dings and dents around the car, but mechanically solid til this happened. And it didnt die, heard the sound and pulled it apart less than 10 miles later. I take care of it, but it definitely gets driven. This is my first j35 and my 3rd j series car. 12th honda built vehicle lol

Some people should just not own an ICE or buy an EV

@@mikefoehr235 don't worry, if they can trash an ICE car, they'll find a way to destroy an EV too.

Not like taking the bolts in the wrong order would’ve mattered anyways 😂

I loved the adjustable pistons

I’ve loved engines, cars, and mechanical stuff my whole life and I learn something new every video. It’s a great way to learn but yes very satisfying and calming. I think it has some asmr levels of sounds and pacing.

What about oil pump seals?

People have to remember that this guy is disassembling engines that are completely destroyed. He's not necessarily an expert on any particular engine. He knows enough to tear them apart and I'm sure he knows enough to put them back together too. But...he's not in the business of reassembling these for 100K+ additional miles of service and he's probably rarely seeing these engines when they're operational. A lot of people are blaming the RTV on the pan for what happened. For those that love to defend Honda or those that don't know what happens with J30's, that seems like a fair answer. However, it was missing the damage on the bearings and journals elsewhere in the bottom end to suggest a pickup being clogged or some other oil starvation issue extreme enough to cause this type of damage to the rods and pistons. There really weren't any signs any RTV actually made it into the pan or pickup either. The circlips spewed everywhere and the missing wrist pin, for those of us who know these engines, was all we needed to see to know that this was a wrist pin that gave way after conn rod small bore bushing and piston pin bore wear essentially allowed the pins to rock around while the engine was operating. This is a common failure on Honda J's. Many a short-block have been replaced due to this.

I had an 07. Never let me down but it was getting rusty so had to let it go.

The plugs are fine. The point he was making was that shortcuts in maintenance items had been taken.

​@@chuckschillingvideosBosch Platinum was the go-to to get me out of bind where last two cyl on 305 had some play or oil valves were stuck open. Fired like a dream with anti-foul extensions for next 20k miles or so.

Poor thing kept running while it mulched itself

No, That’s for lube.

Glad I am not the only one who finds that sound so satisfying. I heard it earlier today real life....removing the heads from my Jeep.

Mine with an auto is still going at 353k, tho it had a very rough life before I got it.

Mine just died at 300k and it was neglected maintenance wise before I got it. But it didnt destroy itself like this, I heard a light tap and immediately checked it out, I'm impressed this rotated enough times to destroy itself this badly 😂

Yea i have a j30a4 190k miles absolutely 0 issues. Just had the timing belt and water pump changed. Still drives smooth as butter

The biggest reason I lost interest in Honda. They should’ve never deleted the V6 from the Accord.

Thanks to the craze of hybrid cars and using smaller (too small) turbo-charged engines in vehicles that used to use a ''proper'' sized engine that would last a million miles. These puny turbo'd engines would never last that long. I think we are going backwards, thanks to our politicians and the ''Green New Deal''.

The trend these days is to use 4 cylinder engines with turbochargers to get better fuel economy due to US EPA regulations. However there's no real replacement for displacement! I dislike the turbocharger as it is a high maintenance item that will cost big bucks to replace when it eventually fails.

There's two foods to this. The V6 would've gotten cylinder deactivation, which is known for its own issues. The V6s we're great, and the vtec crossover is oh so old school. We can even get a taste of it in the current gen Odyssey and what could've gone in the Accord. The 2.0T is nice, with the 10spd. But the V6 would've been awesome.

Something tells me the driver was clueless and was just driving down the highway with the music so loud they couldn’t hear the engine blowing it self apart until it finally died and they felt car slowing down. It looks like the engine was blowing up for 15 seconds to cause that much damage

they aren't wrong, it did likely just shut off. it just made one hell of a lot noise before it did.

Such people shouldn't even be allowed to drive, let alone cars with such fine engines.

HAHALOL

Predominantly an American mindset, we have a "throw-away" mentality!

That thing could 6000 rpm all day. I think someone "tuned" it and it was closer to 10000 rpm. Just my thought.

@@norcal715 Not with poor oil flow.

6000 rpm in 4th and hit 3rd instead of 5th.

@@norcal715 Nah. The top end on J's != the top end on B's. They can hit 7K...then it's all over. The bottom end on these is really the problem...even with what looks like a stout main setup, the rods, sleeves, and pistons actually can't handle that much abuse. I said this elsewhere...but the J30 is not J32. The J30 was the build em as cheaply as possible and as fast as possible version. The J32 and some versions of the J35 are much better engines than the J30...they're built a lot better for one.

Nah. They're not. Talk to people with J35A/Z# or really anyone with J30A4/5....this problem is what happens when the ticking that they make gets blamed on belt tensioners or valves being out of adjustment. Both high $$ required maintenance but often not the cause of the tick. This engine has a wrist pin let loose...a common J problem that often times is able to make it a decent amount of time until it does what this engine did. These engines have some very serious flaws, this being one of them. The anomalously high maintenance required for them when compared to other mainstream V6 over the past 20 years makes stuff like excess pin clearance intolerable. If you've ever been in one of these engines, you'd know that it's really not all that Honda fanboys have made it out to be.

Sure...lash ends up being only mildly loose on them though. That in and of itself is almost never a cause for catastrophic failure. This is a classic wrist pin failure. That ticking noise these make when cold is one of three things usually...loose wrist pins (very common), valves out of adjustment (noisy but not necessarily dangerous), and worn LMA on the intake rockers. Honda likes to use the short skirt piston slap line as an excuse for #1 (see how much it cost GM for their 60 deg V6s...which is why Honda lied through their teeth about this problem), out of adjustment valves are typically off by only a couple thousandths, and the LMA typically will cause issues with VTEC but most people don't even realize these J's have LMA but are hardly ever destructive.

@@kauf0144 They can also make that ticking noise when cold if the valve's are adjusted too tight but it goes away when warmed up.

Did you replace your trans fluid?

@@antimon40 This is what I was wondering when he never mentioned it. Might have been his problem. It's something that should be done every 15k miles. Or if your a little paranoid do a partial change everytime you do an oil change.

My 07 TL has almost 150k. I've taken care of it really well. Bought it at 30k miles and have always put 5w20 full synthetic in it.

thanks for this visual.

HAHALOL

“Valve sandwich” I like that analogy

Nah...not neglect. A lot of timing belts snap because people take them to their hardly better than DIY mechanic who installs a crappy aftermarket belt. People definitely do miss the timing belt change on these...that's for sure. But it's almost just as common for the belts they got from the Rock Auto special to fail prematurely. This engine died not because of the owner though. It died due to a well-known flaw with these engines.

A Honda engine will dump oil into the timing belt cover if you look at it funny...when my wife had her Accord when we got married, I couldn't believe how many conversations with the mechanic started with "and it ruined the timing belt". That had to be the first engine that I've ever seen that ruined a front seal. That car sold me on timing chains

@@brentboswell1294 I like two steel gears meshed together and pressure oiled. Cant go wrong.

@@TestECull I dunno, I prefer engines that actuate the valves directly with the camshaft...nothing like an engine that makes high RPM music!

They’re good but Toyota’s is way better just because of the fact they timing chains and self adjusting valves. The current 2GR version makes over 300hp too.

There are people out there who say these j series engines are non interference...

Most people don't want to spend the extra money for dropping the oil pan to get to the oil pump O-ring until it's a problem, though. I do them every second timing belt, after they start leaking halfway through the first replacement belt.

How does one change the O-Ring?

@@MrSamPhoenix Remove the timing belt and tensioner, then remove the exhaust Y pipe and oil pan, then you can remove the oil pump to replace it. It adds about $300-400 in labor to a normal timing belt job. It's the stereotypical $10 part in a $1000 place. There is a corollary O-ring in the rear main seal plate that also leaks, that one requires transmission R&R to change, and it leaks at about the same age.

@@izzmus wow, I already did the timing-belt replacement job on 2010 Acura TL… which took me 9 hours to do lol.

@@MrSamPhoenix Be glad you aren't doing them on flat rate at that pace! I do them at work in about 2-3 hours depending on how focused I stay.

I haven't had any automatic issues with my early 2000s Honda/Acura cars. I do change my transmission fluid and filters frequently though.

@@juanrobles3381 yes,most people don’t change the transmission fluid enough. It’s cheap enough to do every few years.

@@Whateva67 Not enough with these cars. They literally need to have their fluid changed every 10-15000 miles. It's the only way they make it past 150K. The transmissions in these cars are terrible....I've rebuilt them and every time without fail, the non-serviceable filter inside is clogged completely, third clutch is destroyed, and often times, more catastrophic damage is found elsewhere due to the lack of lubrication. Unfortunately, these engines aren't much better. They are high maintenance and there are serious flaws in both the top and bottom end that will eventually make these engines nothing more than boat anchors. Many fail prematurely and not due to owner neglect.

That is their big weakness. If I new what I know now I would have gotten a 2008 tl type S instead of the normal 2007 tl. Regardless the 2007 and 2008 TL have the RL transmission which is probably one of the few very good auto trans they have made. The normal tranny for the 2004 -2006 Acura tl was made and designed in America and has a design flaw. Its a piece of garbage.

@@kauf0144 You are right on the transmissions but these engines are probably the best V6's on the planet for the past 25 years. They are not called bullet proof for nothing. This is why the guy was very excited to open up a bad one because they never go bad.

is there basically no way of doing VCM right?

@@jamesmedina2062 we gots to turn that sh#tt OFF! Full send on all six cylinders....LOL

@@aggrex on the highway at 65 mph what do you do?? put it in 2nd gear at redline pegged to 7500 RPM?

You have to install the S-VCM and no more problems

Had a 2006 Oddysey with first gen VCM. Never missed an oil change, and the VCM still worked at 180K. But the "active" motor mounts stopped working, and the NVH got very annoying. Put a VCM bypass on it and it worked... still ran well at 200K when I traded it. I have three Hondas now with the third gen VCM system. All get 0W-20 full synthetic oil with changes according to maintenance minder. Newest version of VCM is nearly undetectable in all three cars, oldest of which is a 2013 Acccord at 120K. Use the right oil and change it on schedule!

Little to no room to get a socket and wrench down there. I stopped putting all the timing belt cover bolts on just because of that.

My mechanic drops the engine

@@renaldobryan1047 what lol?!

It's the PCV valve. They never get replaced, are often stuck/clogged...and the front takes the brunt of it.

The pre-2010-ish J-series always have one head that looks more oil varnished than the other. It’s directly related to which head the PCV valve is located on. On this J-series, the PCV is on the front head and so the oily blow-by gases circulate in this head and discolor the components. Even a religiously maintained J-series can’t help but develop this discoloration. On my 2002 J-series, the PCV is on the rear head and the valve train is always a dark color whereas the front head is clean and looks brand new. It’s not an issue due to oil (or lack of it) just a “feature” of this design. Someone posted that late model J-series don’t get discolored like this anymore. Either way, it never affected the remarkable durability of this brilliant engine which just may be the cleanest, smoothest, and most robustly designed V6 ever put in production. The engine in this video expired due to major neglect or faulty maintenance that was enough to exceed the motor’s tolerance for abuse.

A wrist pin let loose. Very weak point on these engines. I wouldn't blame the owner at all.

Thanks! The blown up ones are the most fun!