The day you sell and no longer make videos featuring your Honda Odyssey is a day I will cry. Changed both back and front brakes & rotors yesterday and these videos made the job happen. Thanks a million.

Thank you so much for your thorough explanation of the whole process. I changed my front and rear brake pads and rotors on my 2006 Honda odyssey. I bought your recommended spare parts and they arrived with no issues whats soever. This was 4 months ago by the way. I did have issues removing that one screw they use for the manufacturing process but after that I was a pro...I have told all my buddies that I clearly knew what I was doing. You empowered me and I am empowering others. We just finished changing My brother in-law's wheel hub assembly on his Chevy Avalanche. I never thought I was a car-fixing-dude. You are saving hard working people big $$$$! Thanks and keep up the good work!

2012 Odyssey... It all started with watching this front pad video (still applicable). Since then it's rolled to the transmission fluid change, an oil change, servicing my wife's 2016 Fit, and giving me the confidence to work on my old 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee! Thank you for your confidence inspiring well explained postings! You are awesome!

by far one of the best instructional videos I have seen. doing my front brakes, and axles, this weekend. thank you.

When applying the lube to the retaining clips, it wasn't necessary to put it on the back area as much as it is on the contact groove surface where the pads actually ride in when installed. That's where the pads need to slide around during operation, and if it binds up, it'll cause problems with excessive drag and wear. Using a Q-tip to apply instead of the big brush will make it easier to get it in the needed area without getting it all over the place. It's good to pull the slide pins out from the rubber boot and get fresh lube in there, as that's also critical for smooth movement of the caliper. When retracting the caliper pistons, it's best to open the bleed screw on the caliper and run a tube from it to a receptacle. That gets rid of the part of the fluid that's degraded the most, instead of pushing it back up into the lines. That allows you to add fresh brake fluid to the system through the master cylinder, if you don't intend to flush and change the fluid. It would actually be best to change the fluid at this time though, since fresh fluid goes a long way in keeping things working well, and everything is all set up to do that. Another note- when pumping up the brakes to take up the gap from the pads to rotor, use very small strokes on the brake pedal- don't push it all the way to the floor. If your master cylinder is in less than perfect shape, it may have developed deposits on the cylinder that the piston normally doesn't travel beyond, and if it's forced past it, it could degrade the seals, necessitating an unexpected master cylinder replacement.

This is an OUTSTANDING and PROFESSIONAL instructional video!!! Thank you. I truly appreciated the straight forward, by-the-numbers method of teaching which covered everything I needed to get the job done right, the first time, with no unnecessary commentary. Great camera positions and lighting. The $10 impact screwdriver from Harbor Freight was probably the best money ever spent. The front rotor screws (only 1 on each side of my 2012 Odyssey) were on Superman tight from the factory. I tested it on a piece of wood to be sure it was oriented the proper way (to loosen the screw) before using it. Thanks again so much & keep up the quality videos! Cheers!

One tip on jack stand use; if you cut up your old tires with a reciprocating saw, you can make indestructible jacking pads to cushion the jacking points from the hard metal of the jack stands. I have stacks of them and they work great for all sorts of things, from shimming things with non slip grip, to motorcycle side stand pads in soft ground like asphalt or dirt, to floor jack saddle cushioning. Placing it on top of the jack stand spreads out the contact point from that narrow lift point on the side of the car, which is set up for the emergency jack with the groove in it.

I might add that if you are having trouble removing the rotors (as I did) there are two small threaded holes in the rotor. Place a bolt in each hole and gradually tighten each one and the rotor should pop off. Love these Hondas. Thanks for a great video with no air compressors or radio in the background!

That is, I think, the clearest well lighted and filmed instructional video I've ever viewed on utube. Thank you so much, I feel very confident in replacing my front brakes for the first time in my life after watching your video.

This video was EXCELLENT. I attacked my front brakes and rotors with my 17 year old son and we got them done! THANK YOU.

Both your front and rear videos are the best you tube videos I have seen! Thank you so much!

Single mom desperately too poor to afford to pay someone to do this. This video has given me the confidence to do this and save me money! Update to come

This was the best video I found before I replaced the front pads on our 2010 Odyssey Touring. I did the "tapping" of a wrench on the 19mm nut to both loosen and to tighten the 14mm bolts using a large rubber mallet and a long wrench which seemed pretty tight, but a few days later we heard a rattle under the front end which turned out to be caused by the lack of a lower bolt in the right front caliper. I removed and wire brushed the remaining bolts and reinstalled them with lock-tite 242 on the threads and torqued to 50 foot pounds equivalent to the 71.5 joules for a 10mm grade 10.9 bolt. (I assumed the 10 embossed on the heads was the grade and not the diameter.) I would recommend the use of lock-tite and using a torque wrench to reinstall these bolts rather than the unspecified tapping on the 19mm nut. Oh yes, the missing bolt? My wife had said she heard "something fall off the car" as she was turning on the road to our house two days ago and I had checked to make sure all my wrenches were accounted for, but after discovering the missing bolt we went back where she had heard the noise and actually found the bolt in the grass along the road - "even a blind hog finds an acorn now and then".

This is a really good video, I don't understand who would give this a thumbs down, Google must pay someone to comb through videos to make sure there isn't a 100% like rating or something. I'm glad you included the size wrenches to use, it's a big help. I have seen countless auto repair videos where they leave out the materials and tools and never put it in the description. This is defiantly one of the best automotive repairs video's I have seen on here so far. Thank you for posting this.

This video helped me do brakes for the 1st time in my life. Thanks! It went great!

Thank you so much!!!! Mechanic told me almost $1000 to do front and rear

This video was great! Easy to understand and follow with plenty of detail. Best how to video I've seen and I watch a lot of how to videos!

Nice video . And as someone else mentioned , you always need to pump the brake pedal a few times to reset the new brake pads . And here is a Tip I learned years ago . Whenever you remove a Wheel from a vehicle , place the wheel UNDER the Vehicle , as a backup jack stand . This can keep the vehicle from going all the way down If it falls or crushes down where the jackstands are , ( Ive had it happen in the rust belt ). " Its cheaper to replace a Rim Than to replace a Limb ".

Perfect timing. I have a 2010 Honda Odyssey and i need to change out the front rotors and pads. Thank you for the tutorial. SUBSCRIBED !!

Lengthy comment here. First off, let me thank Dial2fast. If not for your excellent video I would not have attempted the job and likely saved $400, at least. The cranks that follow are more about my particular experience than about your instructions and I absolutely endorse this video. That being said, there is a disconnect between what you see (no headaches) and my world. Your first problem arises when you have to choose brakes and rotors. There are many brands and price points and unless you are a mechanic, you will not have much luck discerning one from another. Keep in mind that if your car is old, like mine is, it may not make sense for you to pay up for 60,000 mile brakes. Second, this type of DIY job has a price limit. I think everyone’s is different but if I couldn’t get the job done for less than half the mechanic’s price it’s not worth it to me. That means, including new tool purchases, I had to keep my cost below, roughly, $250, brakes and rotors cost me $126 alone. Tools I didn’t have and products (lube, etc.) ran me the other $125. If you don’t have ALL the tools shown in the video then I HIGHLY recommend taking the additional step in first seeing if you can remove all of the bolts, ON BOTH SIDES, and only then proceeding the make the repair. It will do you no good to repair one side and then realize that you can’t remove the bolts on the other without another tool. You shouldn’t drive with mismatched brakes! Let me state that the biggest mistake I made was wanting to spend as little as possible and so I didn’t spend money on a rolling floor jack and jack stands. Instead, I attempted to use the jack that came with the van and every time the front tires left the ground the car’s weight would shift and often the van would fall off of the jack. It fell onto supports I had erected on the sides under the reinforced area shown in the video but the only way to then get the car off of those supports was more hit-and-miss jacking of the front end which caused the problem to begin with. Much, much wasted time, dents, danger, frustration and ultimately I ended up jacking one tire at a time. The real problem is that if your jack is about to fail there is NO safe, additional reinforced place for you to set the car down while you reposition the jack. You need to get it correct the first time! The next problem I noticed during the second time I removed the lug nuts. I noticed that one of the lug posts was colored red. This alerted me that the first time around I missed what I’m guessing is a tire alignment. I imagine that that red post was to align to one particular hole in the rim but there was no matching red on the rim so if I’m correct and this colored post was for balancing, then I messed up. Mark your lug post to a particular hole just in case. You should expect to have to drill out those flat-heat screws - I had to drill 3 out of 4. A cobalt ¼ inch bit will do the job if you keep the tip oiled and run at a fairly high speed. I drilled out all 4 holes just to keep things balanced. BTW, the screws are only about ½ inch long so don’t drill any further. The “pins” are the sliding posts under the rubber sheath on the caliper. The 19mm nut on the pin that he recommends loosening to make the 14mm bolt easier to remove would not budge, not a fraction. Indeed it dented my wrench. If you attempt this, you will need a 19mm open-ended wrench (it laughed at my adjustable wrench); however, I was finally able to loosed that 14mm bolt (third attempt, which means 3 days - each day buying a stronger tool: open-ended wrench and socket, pneumatic jack, and breaker bar) with my ½ inch socket wrench and a six-foot steel pipe that slid over the wrench to extend the leverage! The same solution will solve the 19mm bracket bolts. (No lie, these bolts do not want to come off!) (BTW, pinning the wheel hard left or right will greatly improve your access to those bolts and the tire WILL have room to be removed because if you are elevating one tire at a time you need to turn the wheel BEFORE you jack the car!) Lastly, I suspect that if you have to drill those screws out (they ridiculed my Harbor Freight hammer drive and proved to outlast the tool itself) the heat generated may weld the rotor to the housing. I could not get the second rotor off no-way-no-how. I finally (after pounding the rotor with a 5 pound mallet and worrying about damaging my alignment and wondering if I would now have to live with the dented, rusty rotor took out a four-foot, one-inch thick crow bar I own and was able to pry the two apart. Not easy and much trepidation did that situation cause. So I think that covers it all. Thanks again to Dial2fast because my new brakes are working fine. My alignment, well...

Thanks a bunch for your outstanding tutorials! There are many approaches to working on vehicles but it seems like you take the thorough and professional route, which is what so many of us newbie DIYers need. I've utilized your videos numerous times and saved a ton on maintenance.

Awesome video!!! I watched it over and over about 5 times. The next day when I went to do my brakes/ rotors It was such a breeze. Thanks.

Thank you, I did it yesterday following this video. Everything is working perfectly now. No more vibrations. thanks a lot.

Terrific job documenting this brake upgrade - very nicely done! Video work is excellent and narration is top-notch. Currently doing this exact same upgrade to my vehicle and this video helped immensely by showing best location for floor jack and jackstands! Appreciate the embedded links to separate front & rear DIY videos.

Good tutorial. I'd just add that when mounting the rotor back on the hub, it is CRITICAL that the mating surface is clean of all rust or built up material and check for lateral runout. If not done, the rotors will develop uneven thickness after just a few thousand miles and you will get brake pedal pulsation or really bad judder.

great video, at first I was going to skip because I saw 15 min, but glad I sat through it. Very clear and the correct way to do it. Thank you

I bought the same rotors and brake pads from ebay. They look to be of very nice quality. This video is gonna help me a lot while doing the upgrade. Thanks

Awesome video! Did my front brake pads and rotors last sunday. Your step by step instructions made it so easy. Thank you so much. I saved a lot of money by doing this. Bought some new tools with the savings. I installed the Powerstop pads and rotors. I will be doing the rear ones this coming weekend. Have a great day!

Excellent video. 2013 Honda Odyssey that has front shimmy from the day I drove it off the lot. Just received the front rotors and pads from Brakemotive76 and will be installing them later this afternoon. Thanks to your video, I have all my tools ready, including my impact screwdriver.

Awesome. Well explained and done right.

I like your videos. I've done the rears and will be doing the fronts soon. Couple comments that might help others 1) you use "brake grease" several places and then just text that you should clean the sliding pins. I used SILGLYDE everywhere as both my brake grease as well as my pin grease. Silglyde is better for the rubber boots of the pins and also works as a brake grease for the pads and shims. Then you can just buy one product. 2) For those having trouble with the rotor screws, I had luck with my 18V impact driver. Make sure you use a #3 Philips bit and not a #2. #2 is a "normal" screwdriver but is too small and will strip these screws. #3 is the correct size for these. Mine are 5 years old and came off with that, and I didn't need to spend money on a hand impact tool. I suggest reinstalling them because why not....helps hold the rotor fast while you are messing around with the brake caliper etc.

Very good point about the 2 screws to the rotors as the lug nuts to the hub would hold the rotors in place.

Great help! I couldn't find my Haynes book and your video kept it very straight forward. Thanks

Awesome tutorial. Just completed the front change with complete success.

I'd only add that once the car is all buttoned up and on the ground again that you should gently pump the brakes a few times to bring the pistons out to the calipers. If you don't, you might not be able to stop well the first time you apply them (backing out of the driveway, for example...). Also, cleaning and re-lubing the slide pins with some Syl-Glide is a good idea for the job too. Cheers!

Good video, going to be doing the breaks on my 09 Odyssey next weekend. Really appreciate that you included the torque specs. I was contemplating getting the Haynes manual for this. Thanks for saving me $25!

That was very thorough and the lighting was very good. Good work!!

Great job man !!!!!!! I was a teacher and I am sure you will be an excellent teacher if you decide to join the profession.

Superb video. I’ve done brakes on my odyssey before and this is an excellent reference.

Top notch video! Great quality. Very clear and no wasted air time. Thanks

awesome video. No questions after watching the video

Very well done video and instructions! Great camera shots. Clear directions. Kudos!

Great video. Very well done. Thanks for clear pictures.

Going to install front and read rotors and pads tomorrow. Thanks for the tip on the shim. Wish I had watch the video before purchasing the parts at a local auto parts stop. Power Stop would have save me some money. KB

Thanks for showing that. ..one thing that you didn't show are the "buttons" that the two 14mm bolts fit into must move freely in their sockets or the pads will stay pressed against the rotor after you let off on the break pedal... you'll be right back installing new pads because they wear out from it...the salt they use around here tends to corrode those "buttons" and we always have to pull them out, and clean em up with sandpaper and regrease them and make sure Theyre free to move back and forth.

Great Video. Good job going through the stages with all of the details included. I just completed my front rotors and pads and after I pumped the brakes the brakes have remained clamped tight to the rotor? I tried driving away after putting all my tools away and the brakes are clamped tight. Any suggestions?

I really like those brake set, they work great. Happy Thanksgiving!

Nicely done video. Thanks for taking the time to put it together!

I recently replaced my 12 years old front brake rotors with 99K miles on them because they were warped and the steering shakes when I hit the brake hard at high speed. I bought a pair of Brembo rotors to change out the old ones on my car and don't go for these cheap slotted rotors on ebay, they are not doing that well in this van. I used a set of Akebono brakes pads to match with the Brembo and they work great and very quiet. Time will tell but I think the Brembo will hold up better then the OEM rotors because their non brake surfaces are coated so it won't rust as much. Both of my rotors rusted not only at the hub, the rim edge but also inside the air vanes. After the break in period, the brakes on my Ody now works much better than the OEM as I far I can remember. And yes, I put the philips screws back to hold the rotor in place but more importantly center it on the hub and I buy a few as spares to replace the rusty ones. I don't buy the BS that you don't need the screws, the rotors fit loosely over the hub and they can move in each direction at least 1/16". I will change out the rear rotors in the next few months and there is no doubt, the Brembo rotor will be on the top of the list.

Very nice although do not have all the tools to finish the job but at least know what is being changed and the process although gave the details on pricing and brands. AWESOMELY explained

Thank you, God bless you and your family!!!

Great job, very clean work you do.

OMG, can I have your old rotors & pads? Everything looked pretty good on the old brakes that you're replacing!!! I have to do a brake job on my buddy's 2008 Odyssey that is not garage kept & there's zero chance it will look that nice when I pull the wheels off this weekend!!!!

This was great Man, Thank You, Appreciate your time

Thank you this really helps Umm what where the groves in the new rotor from You did A great job explaining everything

You are clear and will known your Honda Odyssey. Thank you

Great tutorial. Thank you Sir. Will do this breaks job on my Odyssey. Thanks a lot.

are you pleased with the quality? Any noise or other issues? I'm about to buy the set you used. Thx for the video

Great video. Thank you for taking the time to do it. One problem I noticed is that you forgot to put the springs that are mounted on top of the pads. This is a bit of a tricky step since the springs are designed to pull pads away from the rotor and can be difficult to put the top piece with Pistons back into place.

One of the best automotive how to videos I've ever seen. I broke two 19mm Kobalt sockets trying to get the calipers off on one side!. Now I'm stuck on those Philips screws so I came to KZfaq to see what other people were doing. Gonna find one of those hammer screwdrivers. Glad to hear I won't need them when I'm done! My only question is why did you only reuse the inside shim when the new pads already have them?

The best video, you are a great teacher.

Phenomenal instruction! Details and all 👍🏆

Wish the tool sizes needed were in the description

Very clear instructions, very helpful. Thank you!

Good job you missed the slider pins they need to be cleaned and re-grease very important especially in northern part where there are snow and dirt

Good video. Very clear and easy to follow. Thank you!

Great and detailed instructional video. Thank you!

Great video. This is a fun job to do if you like working on cars. I bought the same rotors/pads on ebay and they are excellent.

Excellent instructional video!

Awesome instruction bro! Thank you

Just a great detailed video. Thanks for providing.

Wow you make great videos , keep them coming

SAFETY ALERT-WARNING------- YOU FORGOT SOMETHING VERY DEADLY AND DANGEROUS FOR THE AMATEUR!!!!!!! THEY MUST PUMP THE BRAKES 2-4 TIMES AFTER PAD REPLACEMENT. BEFORE MOVING OR VEHICLE WILL HAVE NO BRAKING CAPABILITY.

Thank for the slowly given information. Also I didn't see in comment/video info where you purchased the brakes.

Just did my fronts. Thanks for the video assist!

informative video, thank you for your sharing!

Great video. Did a great job on instructions. Helped me very much thanks.

I'm glad you mentioned that about the screws. I couldn't get mine out even with an impact wrench.

Hello dial2fast, Thanks for these vid's. I will be changing the rotors and pads on my 05 Ody soon. The tips are excellent and practical. My question, what type of gloves do you use? They seem to resist tearing and chemical break down. Thanks for all the help!!! God Bless!!!

Thanks for your video it was very helpful for my honda!

I'd avoid parts from ebay like a plague. I heard a brother who bought timing belt from ebay and it broke on him after only 3K miles and of course the engine is ruined. Too expensive to repair so he sold it to a junk yard. He thought he was buying OEM. On the box, it even said Honda with the logo.

14:24 whoa that lower rubber boot is all scrunched up! I would have straightened it out prior to torquing the bolt in the slide pin.

Great video and very good explanation.

Good training procedure

I have an impact driver, but I usually just take the end piece off and slip it onto my impact wrench, stick the bit in, and zip those screws out.

Awesome Video.. Doing our 2012 this weekend... Hope those crews are not welded on!

How are the brakes holding up? Did they rust up? Thanks love your videos

Just did pads on my 2001 Ody. Easy Peezy.

Thanks! Perfect timing. Doing my brakes soon! Do the slotted rotors make that clicking sound? I may just go with Centric Cyro Treated or would you recommend Centric Premium instead?

Thanks for the great video

Really good video-- wondering why you put a note in about removing the slide pin-- cleaning and re-lubing it but didn't show it on either your front or rear brake videoes??? How do you remove it??? I guess I will find out this week when I replace the brakes on my Odyssey this week-- Not a lot different from doing GM brakes.... Thumbs up for including bolt sizes and torque values.

i ordered parts form Centric...they took 5 days to ship a product they had in stock then when I did get them they were the wrong parts

you also forgot to lubricate the siding tubes on each side of the caliper to make sure theyre both moving evenly and there is even wear on both brake pads or else one will wear out more than the other pad

Well done. Good quality.

Wow. Fantastic easy to follow video. Thank you so much!

Why does the inside pad need a shim? BTW don't new glide clips usually come with new pads? I think the rotor side is only there cause the cuts in rotor are directional.

Thank you 🙏

Thank you

Great video thank you

Thanks for the video. What is the point of the extra shims?