Cool I'm glad you got what you needed from it. That is exactly why I made it. I was hoping it would help someone who wanted to learn about rebuilding this carb. Thanks!

Thanks for watching and commenting. I'm hoping this could help some folks out.

Glad it helped you out! Thanks!

Thanks David. I'm glad it was helpful to you.

​@@cervus-venator Hello mate, excellent video. I would like to know what it is for or what function does the piece that has more multiple hoses have?

I'm pretty sure it is just air. I've never seen any sign of fuel, but I don't know for sure.

That's the diaphragm that runs off vacuum. It helps regulate the air fuel mixture in the carb.

@@cervus-venator Thanks for the answer, friend. I would like to ask another question, should fuel pass through this diaphragm or only vacuum air?

@@cervus-venator I have a carburettor of this type and I don't know the function of the diaphragm, should fuel pass through the hoses or just vacuum air?

Could I interest you in a good enduro bike that you ride directly into the bed of your truck? 🏍

Haha....no thanks!

​@@cervus-venator Hello mate, excellent video. I would like to know what it is for or what function does the piece that has more multiple hoses have?

Not to my knowledge Tim. That tube (also know as the Needle Jet holder) is set up where the needle jet is on top closest to the throttle cap then the needle jet holder (emulsion tube) and after that it is the main jet. In the video you see me take off the emulsion tube and the main jet together. The needle jet is further in the body of the carb and closer to the top of it.

​@@cervus-venator Hello mate, excellent video. I would like to know what it is for or what function does the piece that has more multiple hoses have?

Thank you for your response. I've done two rebuilds on it but it still doesn't work. Therefore, I purchased a new carb for it. I think the float valve seat is corroded or damaged.

The Idle screw should have been set from the factory. What I do when adjusting the idle screw is count the turns as you turn it all the way in so that you know what to bring it back to should adjusting it not help. If it is idling too high you'd need to back it out, but I have a feeling that the jet needle attached to the throttle cable needs to be adjusted. There is a small "c" or "e" clip holding that needle at a certain height. Usually they are set in the center. If you raise the clip setting it should make the needle position lower thus cutting the fuel going into the main jet down and reducing the idle. It is the same with the idle screw. As you back it off the throttle valve, that carries the jet needle, drops down further down allowing the jet needle to fall further into the jet restricting the flow. I hope this helps some.

@Cervus-Venator I appreciate the information..I'm going to try adjusting the jet needle tomorrow morning and let you know what happens.

​@@jason-hu9fehow did it go?

It is not easy as it is held on with a spring clip. If I recall you access it from the inside of the cap. I've removed it once and I remember it being tuff. If you can, use your original cap on the new carb. You may have to do some adjusting of the cable up at the throttle. I'm assuming there is a tool made for that spring clip, but I am not sure. Another option is to buy a new throttle cable that removes that metal elbow completely. It is held to the cap with an adjustment and locking thumb screw. That is likely the quickest and easiest route to take. Sorry that I couldn't be much more help with this.

@@cervus-venator thanks I ended up just using the one from the old carb.

​@@cervus-venator Hello mate, excellent video. I would like to know what it is for or what function does the piece that has more multiple hoses have?

I don't have a number for the Kit. There are many out there for the Honda Recon 250TX. You can got to Partzilla and look under Honda parts. they have part numbers for all the parts in the carb, but it is not a kit. for instance a gasket set is 16010-HM8-000. I got my rebuild kit off of Ebay for a fraction of what these OEM parts cost. The kits I've got in the past were about 12 bucks using Honda TRX 250EX 250Recon Carburetor Carb Rebuild Repair Kit 2001-2005 FL

No there is no check ball valve in this type of carburetor.

@cervus-venator thankyou. I was afraid I'd lost it. I do that quite often The honda dealership tried to tell me there is & that it comes with the entire assembly 381 bucks LOL. I looked up rebuild kits & didn't see any then asked here to verify. Appreciate it

@@floridagirl386 I think you're good to go. The rebuild of these carbs is pretty easy as there are very few parts. Prior to answering you question I double checked and pulled out my exploded view of the carb that lists all the parts and there is no check valve listed at all. I also found a video of a guy working with check valves for weed eaters and chain saws. He actually mentioned that on most carbs for motorcycles and 4-wheelers that you do not have to deal with these check valves because they are not in the design.

@@cervus-venator cool thankyou! I figured cleaning the carb would solve my non running @ idle issue. Onto the next thing. Lol

@cervus-venator he was trying to sell me a new assembly probably because I'm a woman, which happens often LOL!

I could be a number of things from fuel/air to electrical or timing. Electrical would be related to the CDI box not allowing spark under a load, timing could be due to a cam issue or the timing be off in general. If it is leaking air around the carb it could be getting too much air. Carb possibilities are a couple of things. Trash in the bowl clogging the main jet and you give it gas. The idle is running off of the pilot jet, but acceleration is through the main jet. Also if trash gets under the float valve it will cause flooding because it will not allow the valve to shut off the flow of gas. What i think it could be, but I am not sure with the limited information I have, is the accelerator pump. That's the round thing off to the side that has a vacuum line going into it. I'm not sure how this could not be working correctly unless the spring is weak or bad, the vacuum line is not connected or the diaphragm is torn or leaking in some way. this operates to add additional fuel when the accelerator is opened in order to counter the lean air rush as you open up the carburetor.

Try this link too. It may help www.atvfixed.com/atv-dies-when-give-it-gas-check-these-first/

@@cervus-venator thank you man I really appreciate it! I’m going to give it a go tomorrow and see what I can come Up with

I just subscribed to your channel too!!

@@gogetemtv5004 I was just thinking that if the vacuum line to that accelerator pump is cracked or leaking then when you open the throttle it may not be enough vacuum to activate the pump. This could cause there to be a sudden lean mix causing it to die. just a thought.

Agree ethanol fuel certainly is not good for any carb with small jets and needles as well as the plastic and rubber parts that are effected by the ethanol.