Yes simple things with great results 👍

Brilliant it is nice to hear some good feedback 👏👌 Thank you for watching Thomas ride safe 👍

Thank you let us know how you get on... Or message us on instagram we like to hear about people's results 👍

Thank you... Thank you very much 👍👌

Thank you it is good to know that these videos help people 🤙

Thank you 🙏 I love to share and help people and hope this series keeps your bike healthy so you can enjoy it 👍

Thank you 😊

Thank you ... well just say to yourself it's just an engine 👍 ...but it does become easy when you know your way around it and they don't need much maintenance after that

No problem thank you for your time

Robert thank you very much...... Fuel in oil that is very strange indeed 🤔⛽ if you need a hand you can message me on instagram the Project-X-channel page 👍

@@PXCBIKES thank you!

How would you know oil is leaking in the carb will there be gas mix in your oil if you drain it?

@@butterblaz3218 yes exactly. I could smell gas really bad. I opened the oil fill plug and the gas smell was really strong.

Good stuff hope my vids help. You out... There seems to be many of these bikes not running right.....

@@PXCBIKES well I’m nearing the end of my winter project, had it running a few times in the garage the past week. I’m Waiting for my valve shims as the front tappets are little noisey, they should be here Friday. Fit them Then I can get it motd and give it a road test to see what tuning it needs. It was fine before, but it’s had a full strip down so I’m expecting a few niggles to sort. I’m an experienced mechanic of over 30 years on trucks, but the front brakes on mine have been a right pig to bleed. Still not happy with them have you any issues? Thanks 👍🏻

Just seen your brake vid, judging how much travel you have on you front brake, I think mine is ok, soon see on the road test, great vids 👍🏻

The front brake is nice and firm now it did have a few bubbles in the master but I just zip tied the lever in snd left it over night with the fluid cap of snd it had firmed up in the morning..... The vavume bleeder is brilliant but sometimes you can get stubborn air in the lines and the fluid just rushes past it..... So it's keep bleeding 🏁👍

@@PXCBIKES I did fetch my callipers off and moved them round which released a lot of bubbles. Will cable tie lever over night, then retry 👍🏻

Thank you.... Yeh there is loads of good and bad news about fuels but it does state on the petrol tanks on many of my bikes 90's bikes "ONLY USE 98 OCTANE OR HIGHER" but I have left my bikes standing for some time with no faults or carb cleaning whatsoever.... 🤟

Curious what makes you think you have/had a faulty ignition coils, and did that end up being the culprit?

@@benzeneAndCordite mine started up OK then began to misfire and get worse as the engine got warmer it ran OK at high rpm with gentle throttle but wanted to cut out if I hit it hard. It also smoked heavy on start up Turned out to be a faulty plug

Thank you very much

Oh dear hope the videos help you out there seems to be many faulty VTR's on the road out there let's hope these vids will help people to enjoy them

@@PXCBIKES Many thanks! In doing an overhaul on this VTR, have also discovered the cam timing is also out - might be the cause of the carb backfire I've been trying to diagnose - nightmare! Many thanks for the vids, will be doing the ignition coil check next

Ah OK... I have not looked at the Facebook groups I just go on experience... To get the bike to idle correctly you have to adjust the air fuel screws and then set the throttle stop or idle screw.. I back the idle screw all the way to close the butterfly valve then set the TPS because most people adjust the idle speed screw after and this will throw out the TPS setting... The TPS sensor should not effect the idle only the throttle response once you apply the throttle... It is difficult to analyse any issue without seeing the bike but you can try my adjustments then see if it runs sweet.. It is best to get the bike to fire up off the button and idle on its own before any further steps with the carb.. And always adjust the idle screw when the bike has warmed up to 40 degrees but don't let it get too hot when making the adjustments... Most problems are a lean condition with the pilot settings... You should be able to fire it up off the choke and leave choke on for around 30 seconds then slowly close it... Let it warm up for a minute then give it a burst of throttle... If it revs up to the top with no hesitation then that is good... If it tries to bogg down under harsh throttle then your pilot jetting or AF screws are too lean

Gracias por ver mi vídeo 🙏👍

Yes I am working on the edit but had so much going on at home.... It is a real important one that most VTR owner suffer but don't realise.... Many bikes have defective and blocked fuel caps that case a preasure lock in the tank

Yes I googled it.... it is the only bike I know if with them.... So out they go I can't really see them making any performance enhancements... Gas snd air shouldn't have restrictions Realy 🤷‍♂️... It runs absolutely spot on now though 👍

Yes check ou the latest vid... I removed them

Ah yes the rear cylinder has a small vacuum nipple that needs to be routed to the fuel tap it is the vacuum for the fuel feed it will be on the left... If you like send me some pictures via Instagram "theprojectxchannel"

Hello You can on the carb yes but the hexisting hoses have to run back to the coolant flow

@@PXCBIKES are u talking about the long hose u pointed out in vid?

The long hose that runs from the right hand side of the bike to the carb.... Can be diverted straight to the thermostat housing replacing the hose that comes out of there to the carb... One is an inlet and one is an outlet..... Scrap the short one and blank off the ports on the carbs.... You can cap them off or cut the hose and loop it over them either way

Hi glad you liked the videos... 👍.. OK its hard to diagnose a fault without seeing the bike running but when you say warm up do you mean it's hard to start or it runs rough until the temperature gauge it around 45deg or more?.. Warm up should basically be choke out fire up and the bike should idle around 2k rpm then slowly release the choke after 40 seconds or so the bike should then idle on its own... With the engine running it should warm up... The temperature gauge is reading the coolant temperature not the engine temp... But can you describe its behaviour?

@@PXCBIKES Thanks, it will run on choke starting straight on the button at about 2grand for about 30 seconds but as soon as it goes to no choke it wont idle unless there's slight throttle but once the engines up to temp it idles no problem at all and revs cleanly. I'm gonna give it a service over the next couple of weeks and give it a good going over. Thanks for the help 👍

Sounds like it's running lean on the pilot jetting or the idle stop needs adjusting... It should idle at 1400rpm with the choke off at operating temp..

@@PXCBIKES thanks, I will keep you updated, all the best 👍

It can be somwere in between... It won't make much difference just don't go under 5ohms but just make sure you wind out the idle speed screw first.... Wind it out rurn it back in just close enough to start opening the butterfly plate.... Then tune the TPS.... After that you will have to adjust the idle to fire up the bike ans once running set it correctly.... The engine will need to be up to operating temp (above 50deg) to set the idle at around 1400rpm

I believe they do fit yes but you will have to try it with the std vtr jetting and run the bike... There are many engine parts that can be used on the Vara from the vtr but basically the vara is a toned down VTR.... With heavier flywheel and altered cams... Carbs etc... When setting up the carbs concentrate on getting the bike to fire up and idle smooth before using any throttle... Then go from there... If it fires up from cold easy without choke then the pilot jetting is too rich.... If it starts and warms up good then give it a burst of throttle... If it revs all the way to the top then you are good to go try it... If it revs up and the idle dips low under the correct idle speed then the main jetting is too rich or the needle needs to be dropped...... If it revs all the way up and the throttle hangs around from 2000rpm then slowly drops to 1400 then the pilot is lean you need to turn in the fuel screws...

Hello in the rubber intake boots there are aluminium rings you can grind it so that it will be round or you can rip them out with pliers.....

Hi yes absolutely you can I just looped them because I didn't have any caps for them 👍

The restrictions can be ripped out ....or you can just fild or grind the aluminum collar so that it is round this will leave the aluminium ring still in to give it integrity....but make the hole completely round 👍.....yes get if to idle straight becsuse a rough idle can screw up the cam chain tensioner .... if it is run with cylinders out of sync

Hello I would say it does seem defective if there is no change... It is strange for this as they usually give a reading change regardless... Usually too high or too low...

@@PXCBIKES Thanks for replying. Yer it threw me as i thought was going to be easy fix. Bike has hardly been used in 10 years and needs a lot of TLC. It wasnt healthy sounding on idle so going to assume amongst other things TPS is defective. Cheers.

Yeh it would mostly effect the rpm range and not the idle... The TPS I mean... Usually the bike would start and idle but giving it throttle it would almost want to stall or stutter under load... But clean the carbs and check the settings on the idle and AF screws... After time and riding the AF screws and idle adjustments can vibrate out of balance... The carburettor is everything to the engine. 👍 Getting it to fire up and idle smooth is the first step...

Thank you for your interest.... I am not sure as to why Honda would put restrictions in the rubber intake.... Only reason I can think is that to help comply with emission regulations.... In my experience there should be no restriction like this between the carb and inlet ports I have never seen it on any other bike... AA for a difference in performance the bike had issues before I removed them so I wouldn't know the difference

Hi Sir, thanks for input. Thanks to your videos my -97 VTR now idles like a four cylinder, responds directly when i flick the throttle, and pulls like a horse at wide open throttle! I experience however a new problem, likely because of a vacuum hose, or membrane issue. I ripped out the restrictor plates in the inlet rubber (noticable difference!), I screwed out the fuel/air mixture screws from 2.2 turns to 2.8, later adjusted front one to 2.5, idling really really fine now! Adjusted the TPS to 520 kiloohms. Problem is that, when cruising at low engine load say a steady 100 km/h, the fuel seems to be delivered very erratically. No misfire what so ever, but the bike ”moves” beneath me forward and backwards. Whithin a time period of 2 to 3 seconds the power has been decreased a bit many times. Does not matter if I just had wide open throttle. There should be fuel in the carburetor bowls. So i suspect the pilot fuel screw, vacuum leak, or membrane issues, or sticky needles. Should not be a fuel tap or vapour lock issue as I understand of your excellent vidoes. Going to get myself new vacuum hoses today, will start there. I know you are certainly not my personal mechanic, but I would be very grateful if you could point me in the right direction! Is this phonomenon a telltale sign of somerhing? Thank tou sir, keep the vidoes coming! Come to Sweden and I will get you a beer! 🍺

Hello.. Its hard to diagnose a problem without seeing it for myself but do you mean the engine has a slight stutter with steady throttle....? What is the Rpm when this happens?... If it runs fine at wide open throttle and idles then I can't see it being a fuel hose vacuum problem.... It could be the TPS?? Did you wind back the idle speed screw before setting the TPS..?

Really value your response and helpfulness sir! Yes correct, it has a slight stutter, but it fires ok. Rpm at 100 kmph is just above 3000, gearing down to 5th and 4th gives the same phenomenon at 4-5000 rpm. It’s a bit ”digital” = on/semi-off power, so the more I think of it, it should/could be the throttle signal from the TPS. Yes, I think I managed to set back the idle screw to just when it starts to rise on the ohms. Did not fully comply to your instructions though, perhaps I should settle at your’s 580 kohms (mine at 500-520)! Thanks for the input on vacuum hoses. I’ll run into my garage to fix the TPS right away! Thumbs up sir!

Oh hope this solves it..... Yes when setting the TPS first wind back the idle speed screw to fully closed then wind it back in until it just makes contact then set the TPS.... After the when you fire the bike up you will have to set the idle screw again.... If it is too far out then it will be hard to start so turn it in.... So that when the bike fires up the idle will be high so you wind it back to correct it to around 1400rpm......

No don't worry about it there is a tolerance with them also your throttle stop screw will effect the reading due to its position

@@PXCBIKES ok . is ok if my tps is turned as far as it can go counter clock wise

Erm it shouldn't need to.... But first back off the idle screw all the way then turn it in until it just touches the throttle stop... Wind it in one full turn then adjust the TPS... You have from 5k ohm's to 8k ohm's of adjustmend around 6 is a good measure.... When you assemble the bike you will have to adjust the idle screw to get it to start so when the carbs are back in... Wind the idle screw in a few turns then fire it up.... It will rev high so then turn the idle screw down to set the idle..... When the bike is up to operating temperature oround 60deg water temp then fine tune the idle to 1400rpm.... Give it a burst of throttle.... If it stutters or bogs from 1400 to 2k rpm then adjust the pilot air screws as the pilot settings will be lean

Ha... I hate screws used on engines 😑

Also get yourself a set of JIS Japanese screwdrivers. The ones that come in the tool kit also work better than domestic drivers.

Funny someone else said that to me 🤜🤛

Ebay I have just put a link to them in the video discription

Set the TPS with the butterflies just beginning to open and it dosent have to be 500ohm just between 500ohm and 600ohm but go as close as you can... So just wind off the idle screw until the TPS reading stops dropping... Then turn it in until the TPS reading begins to change.... Then adjust the TPS this is like resetting it to closed throttle...

@@PXCBIKES will do 🫡. Pulling carbs off the bike it’s sat for 10 years might as well do all this and yank restrict its while I’m in there

10 years 😬 probably best to get a carb rebuild kit with orings as the existing ones may be dried up and hard

They run lean from the factory..... No it dosent smell of fuel on start up why? ⛽.. The main jet does not support the starting circuit... It is the pilot.....

@@PXCBIKES awesome! Reason I was asking as you mentioned in the vid that the 48 pilot might be too large and the obvious give away would be smelling of fuel. I didn’t make it clear, I was asking 2 questions. Curious on the reason for the jump on main jet increase. It runs lean but how did you know to jump that much and not just to the next size up? Was there a giveaway or just experience? Thanks again Great vid.

@@hogbot6018 oh it is mostly just experience if you change the pilot over 5 times the size then the main jet also has to be changed...if not then this will effect the midrange transition... I went up a greater size due to adjusting the pilot air screw... i had to turn it more than 3 turns out in the end ... and going richer will help the engine to run cooler. but with jetting you have to consider not every engine is in the same condition ...but if you work between the standard and my stage jetting you will have improvements.. also I have some slip on silencers to fit so the jetting will suit them

Sounds like the pilot jetting may be clogged it is running lean... Or there is a fuel flow problem

It will advance or retard the ignition on throttle openings and at full throttle to help the engine burn cleaner

@@PXCBIKES Ah - I see. Thanks very much for this, and your great videos. I pick up my VTR in a few hours and looking forward to working on it :-)

Ok well I think I cover most of the work in my series 👍 take a look

Just a little bit of tinkering and it. Will pal 👍

@@PXCBIKES your videos will definitely help! My carbs needs stripped and cleaned the idle is all over the place and it lurches at motorway speeds

Oh wow there seems to be so many VTR's with running problems... But I hope you get everything sorted with my videos... Thanks alot 🙏👍

It's just the factory standard exhaust jap bike

When does the popping start and when does it stop?... Does it start at high rpm then stop around 4000rpm or does it pop all the way down with closed throttle...

@@PXCBIKES hey thank you for the answer. I noticed the exhaust popping when i decelerate (when the engine is getting hot) and even when i drive slowly I will take it for a spin soon and take a look at the rpm to.

Do you have standard exhaust...?.. Or aftermarket?.. Is the silencer long or short?.. Try jetting it richer

​@@PXCBIKES Oh sorry for not reacting, i cannot see when people react to me. I have the original long silencer. do you mean pilot jet ? or the main jet ?

It's OK I mean the pilot jetting

Oh where abouts are you? Does it fire up and idle OK?.... Does this happen only when riding?

@@PXCBIKES idle from 1400 to 900rom cuts out takes a while to start back up. Went in bike shop they said they would a spring was to big in one of the carbs so they changed it. It was running on one cylinder on way home again. Coming out of a roundabout and massive surge of power ripped handlebars out of my hands nearly rolled off the back of bike. Got home changed my pants and started looking for faults. Changed coil pack plug cap. Back downpipe cold. Since I got the bike it's done 69 miles and used £27 in petrol

Try runnig it with the petrol cap open...( not pressed locked shut just close it so it sits on the tank) . Just go steady and see if it happens again..... If it runs fine with the cap open then you have a faulty fuel cap as preasure builds up in the tank it stops or limits fuel flowing to the carbs.... Give this a try first

@@PXCBIKES will try anything when I get it back. With amount of fuel it's used I thought its over fueling. When it cuts out and try starting it sometimes it sounds like it's hydro locked. And when I've took the plugs out they very wet. Are you in the UK

Yes I am in the UK South Yorkshire

Регулирует топливо при выворачивании

@@PXCBIKES У меня складывается впечатление ,что он расположен паралельно главной дозирующей системе .

По каким критериям оцениваете качество рабочей смеси?

Он просто настраивает смесь и прислушиваться к двигател. и прислушивайтесь к дроссельной заслонке... Приемистость дроссельной заслонки и обороты холостого хода.

@@PXCBIKES Я не понял он регулирует холостой ход или мощностной режим?