Hello! I am a hvac technician, installing an air damper is a solution for some cases. That said, there are a few drawbacks with leaving the blower motor on auto continuously, firstly, it prevents the A coil from returning to a normal temperature and properly drain excess water, while also fanning out small particles of water throughout your ductwork, thus leading to mold... which can then spread throughout the house in time while also leaving the air quality a bit musty. This could be solved or minimalized by installing a Dehumidifier on the main supply. Also, unless specified, leaving a blower motor on "on" can significantly reduce the lifespan of the motor, the part is about $100-$150 dollars but unless you know how to install it yourself, it could cost between $800-$1200 for a professional to do it for you. A sure fire way to fix this problem is to have a zoning system installed, which allows you to have a thermostat upstairs and down. The drawback with that solution is cost and wear and tear on your condenser working more to keep your upstairs cool. Proper upstairs ventilation is imperative, you should have vents allowing hot air to escape into your attic in the summer while also having proper ventilation in your attic to allow it to breathe and prevent mold growth. And don't forget ceiling fans for circulation :) if I failed to elaborate on anything or if anybody has any questions feel free to ask away!

A few things. In spite of it's name, duct tape should not be used on duct work. One should use either mastic or foil tape. You have a loft-like space, where cold air can pour over your balcony (shown behind/above you) into your lower space. So closing off ducts feeding the downstairs to make this happen will work in *your* space. But a lot of people don't have such a space. A stairwell alone won't cut it. But the main thing about your solution is that it misses what is probably the main reason for why you have such a glaring difference in temperature between your living-space levels, and that is the situation in your attic! Has your attic floor been air-sealed? Does the attic have adequate insulation? These are two totally separate things. Both of them heavily impact this issue. A hot attic pushes heat down into the living space. This matters just as much in a hot climate as in a cold one.

Great video. Dampers should be required by code for all HVAC branch runs after they come off the main trunk line.

Hi, this is Jermey McGuire. I previously had a 15 year old 5 ton Lennox XC16 air conditioner from 2009, and a 4 ton Goodman air conditioner from 2018. The Lennox air conditioner previously cooled the upstairs, that air conditioner didn’t cool under 80.” It was hot and miserable for the past 2 summers here in south Texas, Upstairs stayed hot and muggy. The downstairs air conditioner didn’t cool well, I got 2 brand new Goodman air conditioners out in 4 days ago. Thank god I have a/c before the south Texas summer starts!! My upstairs thermostats at a cool 78!!!! I’d rather be cool and comfortable than burning up. It’s going to be a scorching summer here in south Texas.” I’m ready to tackle the heat my thanks to my 2 brand new air conditioners will be keeping me cool!! 🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶🥶

Nice!!! Very helpful - thanks!

thanks for the advice!

Solution is move

Great job old man

I tried closing some vents and the evaporator froze

Would closing the second floor doors help?

Ur electricity is 1000 a month lol

Father God he talks sooo slow! Get to the points!!!! Sheeesh