That's interesting. Did you enjoy the school? I would love to do something like that.

@@fukcg00gle95 If you're looking to do it for your own enjoyment, certainly. If you're intent on doing it towards the goal of making your own custom firearms or starting a business in firearms - I'd recommend against. We're currently on a downward slope and I foresee us losing our rights either this administration or the next one. Be it by illegal means or no. I loved going to school, I enjoyed the work, I had a lot of fun with the people I went to school with: but under the current circumstances, I couldn't possible in good conscious recommend someone else do so towards the goal of employment or career - when that would constitute an enormous investment and the career opportunities seem tenuous.

@Daniel If you're hot salt bluing in a tank like that: you should really have a full ventilation system because even the fumes coming off the tank are caustic. Beyond that, wearing a forced air unit with filter would probably work, or a double fan set up so the entire thing operates in a wind tunnel which points out a door. There are plenty of bluing alternatives which, may not be as fast - but will produce equal (and better) results. I.E. rust bluing. The whole reason the gun industry switched to hot salt was simply production speed. It's cheaper than electro plating, faster than rust bluing, far easier than color case hardening: however, each of those offer superior protection to hot salt bluing. If you're doing small scale stuff, just a garage shop or maybe a small low order threshold business: I recommend nitre bluing, rust bluing, electroless nickel plating, phosphate or even some of the spray on options which can really produce quite good results with practice. If you want to be slick about it, and I mean popped collar pink polo shirt and dark sunglasses circa 1986 slick - for blade work, you can nitre blue - as part of - your temper cycling.

B bpg%

That video is a number of years old. It was done in a two car garage. It did rust some of the things in the very immediate vicinity. It's just a matter of the vapor - which contains minuscule particles of the bluing salts - landing on the surface of things.. All you need to do is cover them while bluing. It's not a difficult fix. I have a 10 and a 20 inch tank.

@@KarlBAndersen Appreciate the quick response. Ya I saw the video was an older one but it helped me. I thought about covering up the stuff that is close to my bluing setup. I just didn't know if that would work so I appreciate the confirmation. Thanks again!

Mike, I don't think I have ever had a knife on Blade Gallery. And I've never been to the MKA show. Sorry, buddy.

I assure you there is no paint involved. The bluing salts are very fragile and can be neutralized easily. Think of "Black Pipe" you get in the hardware store. It is low alloy steel that has a black iron oxide - raw iron - on the surface. This ensures there are no potential neutralizing alloys coming in contact with the salts.

Copper can potentially neutralize your salts, so be careful. I bought my tanks from the salt supplier - Brownells - who refer to the tanks as "black iron".

Well if everyone didnt want everything for nothing guys like this would be more available but everyone want something for nothing so order from over seas , now look how thats working out , made in china means something else now doesnt it , lets see how many people will continue to support china now , ive aalways tryed to keep my money in my country and only buy from over seas when nobody here makes what i need , unfortunately most things dont get made in our countries because companies only care about profits not quality or keeping our country self reliant . Now we just got cought with our pants down and are getting spanked hard , time to keep our business in house dont you think .....

I'm sorry for not answering this in a timely manner - the steel becomes awfully discolored and is not desirable.

bellybutthole Nope - no acids. This process uses caustic salts.

Adding water does not "increase boiling". When adding water you are simply replacing the water that has boiled away. As the water leaves the mixture it, the mixture becomes heavier and it takes more heat to make it boil, which increases the boiling temperature. By replacing the water as it boils away, you are maintaining the boiling temperature which is critical. I have no idea the recipe of the salts. It's a special mixture and I just buy it. I'll let the professionals make it.

Karl Andersen I don’t want to make it just know where I can buy/what’s the brand name so I can look it up, yep that’s what I meant increase boiling by decreasing the boiling temperature by adding water thanks again, very informative video

@@justinkemeter Brownells - Oxynate #7.

It's fun!

I believe you can, but I do not know the chemistry of it.

Karl Andersen Thanks for replying I wish if I found it to repainting my hunting shotgun

sami mohamad www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/caustic-hot-blue.13837/

I truly do not know the chemicals involved. Some companies make this a proprietary secret. Some serious internet searches should be able to help you discover this.

@@KarlBAndersen thanks for the reply. I'll have a chat with a few local gunsmiths in the area. Perhaps they'd be willing to let me in their recipes....

You cab buy your salts numerous places. One place is Brownell's. The salts come with very specific direction on their use. They also have technicians you can call for trouble-shooting questions. Learn by doing.

That video was eight years ago. Today a knife made from some Damascus like that would run $700+

No.

I use RO water now. Look at the year of the video.

Thank you, so much. The only thing that matters is what happens inside the tank.

@@KarlBAndersen You'd never make it in a union shop. We have all of our work areas clean and orderly. It makes for a safer work environment and helps achieve consecutive days without a work loss injury.

@@texassportsman5880 Big difference between working in a union shop and working in a part time one-man garage. I'd "make it" in a union shop just fine.

@@texassportsman5880 And that place was almost a decade a go. I have a dedicated work shop now. Don't miss the point of the video. I've been working in shops since 1968.

km

I buy pre-manufactured salts and do not know the ingredients.

@@KarlBAndersen yes I do agree that's far more better mixtures of solution in pre- manufactured salts. salute to you. Which brand do you use please let me know sir 👍👍

@@akumamer I use 2 different ones.. Oxynate #7 from Brownells and Oxi-Black from Du-Lite. They both perform well.

It's not a good idea to leave the container open. I made a cover for the tanks and keep them closed when not in use.

www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/caustic-hot-blue.13837/

Nope. 192 F is not hot enough to effect anything.

No you must use snow or else it won’t work, how else would you get water that’s been evaporated and condensed again?

justin Thomas 😂😂😂 I see what you did there. Bravo. 😂😂

It's a different animal than what is used. It might work. I'll continue to use the prescribed oil. I have two gallons of WD40 in the shop. But it won't go near my hot-bluing process.

@@KarlBAndersen Which oil would you recommend? I have a 1956 Marlin LeverMatic I'd like to do. Not a valuable rifle but I like shooting it and it is unique enough that I think it deserves to be taken care of. I bought it off the "sad sack" pile and cleaned it up so it is "OK" but now I'd like to go a bit further and rust blue it. Any advise is appreciated. Thanks

@@richmcintyre1178 I use the Water Displacing oil from Brownell's.

I do not know the chemicals www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/bluing-salts/oxynate-no-7-prod1066.aspx

@@KarlBAndersen thanks bro

No. The temps do not exceed 300 degrees. Too cool to effect anything.

That's why you only take the snow off the top. By that time the air has basically been "scrubbed" free of particles. That said, particles of "dirt" would have no ill effect on the bluing process. Distilled water can be very harmful if it is distilled in anything NOT glass. Copper tubing used in the distillation process can literally neutralize the salts. Look at my results. I've been hot-bluing for 2 decades. The results speak for themselves. www.andersenforge.com

I can only assume you are referring to the knife vise? It's basically just a round pipe inside another round pipe. I made mine but just search for "pipe vise".

That video was 7 or 8 years ago. I'm still using the same table saw. She lived.

I've never seen a powermatic so disrespected.

I do not know. I buy it already made.

Dude!! I've been using that EXACT set-up for 15 years!!!!!!! The salt doesn't boil over. The tank is plenty large for that size burner. I could use a smaller tank. Jeeze. Watch the video - is it boiling over? No.

Nuns farts

I do not know what the chemicals are. I buy the product from Brownells

potassium nitrite and sodium hydroxide Very nasty stuff, I wouldn't do it unless you know exactly what your doing.

I do. I don't drink it.

No. Water Displacing oil. www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/post-finish-surface-protection/1-gallon-sku082057128-1086-3913.aspx

You need to take a closer look at that thermometer smart ass. It's a calibrated gunsmithing thermometer from Brownells. They run about 50 bucks. And your foolish comments show you know little about maintaining a constant temp in a brine solution with the water continually vaporizing. You missed the point where the water temp must be controlled AT A BOIL! If it's boiling the water is constantly vaporizing and LEAVING the mixture thus raising the boiling temp. The water must be replaced. I get tired of you peple who don't do caustic bluing suggesting they can tell me how to do something I've done for 20+ years " 6) TEMPERATURE CONTROL OFTHE BLUING SOLUTION - The single most common cause of trouble for the beginning gun bluer is not understanding the absolute importance of maintaining temperature control - and how to do it. If you fully understand the principle of “supersaturation” described above, you will see that as the temperature of the Bluing Solution rises above 292° F., it can be brought down by adding water. If the temperature is too low (below 292° F.), it can be raised back up to 292° F. by allowing water to boil out of the Bluing Solution or by adding more Bluing Salts to the Bluing Solution. In other words, the key to temperature control in the Bluing Solution is to closely monitor the temperature and add water or Bluing Salts, or let water boil out to maintain the optimum operating conditions of a vigorous, rolling boil at 292° F. Because the Bluing Solution operates at a vigorous boil, which creates a lot of steam, it is constantly losing a lot of water, and the temperature will consistently rise - unless you frequently add water to the Bluing Solution to replace the water being boiled away and lost from the solution. . Therefore, ADD WATER FREQUENTLY TO THE BLUING SOLUTION. If you do not, the temperature will rise, the Bluing Solution will go out of the correct chemical balance to turn the guns blue-black, and will instead , at the higher temperatures, turn the parts red, or shades of red. DO NOT: Do Not ever try to control the operating temperature of your Bluing Solution by just turning the heat source up or down.

Black Oxide Temperature - Since water boils at 212F at sea level and the operating temperature of Oxiblak is 290-295F, black oxide salts must be added to the bath to raise its boiling temperature. To understand how the amount of salts in a solution affects the boiling point, you must understand that adding salts to the solution makes it stronger and denser. Denser liquidshave higher boiling points. Adding water to the solution lowers the density and, therefore, lowers the solution boiling point. When the boiling point is correct, the solution concentration is correct. Oxiblak has a recommended operating temperature of 290-295F. The black oxide operating temperature is not controlled solely by the heat source, it is controlled by the combination of the heat source and the concentration of chemicals in the solution. Never try to obtain the proper operating temperature of a black oxide bath by adjusting the tank's heating systemup or down. The heat source should be set for the day at a gentle rolling boil - then you can maintain the proper operating temperature with the additions of salts or water. For example, if your solution is boiling at 275F, you must add black oxide salts to your tank which will result in a denser solution and raise the boiling point. If your solution is boiling at 290F, you must add room temperature water to the tank to create a thinner solution which will lower the boiling point. Boiling Point - The boiling point of a black oxide bath is indicated by a slight eruption in one corner or along the sidewall of the tank. This slight eruption along with the proper operating temperature indicates that blackening is occurring. A black oxide tank can be heated to the proper operating temperature but without this boiling action - blackening will not occur

​@@KarlBAndersen You mean the bluing thermometer (not gunsmithing) from Brownell's that's actually rebranded Tel-Tru? Is your definition of "calibrated" because it has fat black mark that occupied at least 5 degrees worth of space? Brownell description says nothing about "calibrated" but that's not the point, you missed my point - the thermometer does not have 1 degree hasmarks! So you're claims of maintaining to 1 degree is nothing but exaggeration! Stick a digital thermometer and you will see the temperature fluctuate way more than one degree! I said the same thing that you are just repeating now about adding more water to replace vaporized one, no need to repeat I understood perfectly from the video my point was that by adding more water which is in the ice cube form as you wrote in comments and keeping it all within 1 degree is once again a bogus claim that you can't proof because you don't have accurate tools to measure your solution to a 1 degree - that's all I am saying - nothing more. I am sure you know your bluing I am not doubting your skills for a second.

@@KarlBAndersen Why are you telling me all this? I never questioned any of this and I never said its wrong or doubt it, you're reading too much into it without actually paying attention to what I was saying.

@@DimaProk Because you're suggesting to use a PID controller to control heat. If you think that's how the temp is controlled then you don't understand the process. That's why I'm telling you all this. I shared the info from two different bluing supply companies so you can learn something.

Affirmative!

Damps?

@@KarlBAndersen fumes

@@thieFdown It's water and salt...so water vapor. I'm usually in the other room while it's bluing.

@@KarlBAndersen oh wow, how much salt per unit water do you use? I tought it was some kind of acid you used...

@@thieFdown It's not just "salt" they are "bluing salts" that fall into the chemical salt family. They do not create "fumes" as they don't convert into a gas. Any of the salts in the tank can only come out in the water as it leaves in a vapor. That said - they are VERY!! caustic and would be unhealthy if breathed.

I did no folding whatsoever. You need to watch this for a little education son: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f7mDeq9ls9mWoas.html

@@KarlBAndersen it’s still not Damascus

@@ChickenPermissionOG How much of this steel have you made?

@@ChickenPermissionOG It's 100% DAMASCUS.

@@KarlBAndersen You're a fraud Damascus has not been made since 1750 and anyone who knew how it was made is dead.