If your breaker is tripping that often you must have devices on that circuit that are pushing it right to the edge of capacity. A common one in summer time is a window air conditioner. If that's the case, you may need to make certain that the air conditioner is the only thing on the circuit by unplugging other items.

This makes me feel very ecstatic!

Glad it was helpful!

Yes, you are are confused! What you've been told about the grounding is not accurate. I happen to be a musician too, and I have my own basement studio space. Actually, I trained as a recording engineer at The Recording Workshop many moons ago, and worked briefly at the Hit Factory in NYC before it closed. So I understand your question, but let's unpack it all. First, to answer your question, there are different breaker box styles and I don't pretend to know them all. Generally the busses are arranged so that the breakers alternate between the two phases. There are various ways you could test which breaker is tied to which phase. One method would be to cut the main power and use an ohmmeter or continuity beep on a meter with one lead on one phase at the top and the other lead touched to each breaker terminal down the line. Another method would be to leave power on and use your voltmeter, with a lead on one breaker terminal and a lead on another breaker terminal. Breakers on different phases will read 240 volts, breakers on the same phase will read zero. Or, put one lead on one main phase at the top of the box, and the other lead on each breaker terminal. Breakers on the same phase will read zero, breakers on the other phase will read 240 volts. That aside, I'm here to tell you that you don't need to wire your whole studio on the same phase. I have seen that recommended, but it makes no sense. Ground loops, which can cause hum or interference, can occur when there are multiple paths to ground. Induction of stray magnetic fields from the nearby presence of 60 cycle AC can be magnified by the audio gear and you can end up hearing this in speakers or picking it up on recordings. Often it is the equipment itself, not the wiring, which introduces the ground loop. In residential and most commercial office wiring, the circuits on either phase share the same ground. It is important to make certain that the ground goes to earth (there is an actual rod driven into the ground outdoors) and has solid connections, but separating the phases would make no difference. The only way it MIGHT be a problem is if you have other devices plugged into the same phase as your audio gear. So, if you have ancient florescent lights with tired ballasts or a microwave to heat up your Ramon noodles on the same phase or circuit you could introduce noise. Otherwise, it's a non-issue. The other point to understand is that this problem was far more prevalent back in analog times. With today's digital interfaces, DAWs and even digital rack gear, the devices themselves are better insulated against noise issues. The problem existed in the analog mics, mic cables, sound boards, tape machines and rack gear. Today we still have analog mics and cables, but after that the digital signal chain takes over and ground loops or AC noise is no longer an issue. Sure, if you are making a special point to use vintage analog gear then you'll need to pay more attention to the issue. But if you are hooking up a guitar to a DI box and then into a digital interface for processing in your DAW, it won't be a problem. I record my drums with up to sixteen analog mics going into an XAIR X-18 interface, connected with USB to a PC running Reason DAW. I've never experienced a signal noise issue even though the rest of the household is using the same electrical phases for other things.

@@enduringcharm Thank you SOOO much. This is the info I was looking for. One more question if you don't care... My studio area of the house is going to have 3 Receptacles. I coincidentally have 3 extra breaker spaces. Would it be overkill to "homerun" each of the 3 studio receptacles to their own breaker (say 15a)? Or should I just wire all of them up together and put them on a single breaker (20a)? What's best for "clean power"? The studio is right beside the breaker box so these are short runs. So homerunning will be a piece of cake. I calculated all my gear to be around 10-11a tops, so they could definitely all function on a 20a circuit. However I don't mind "Home running" each receptacle individually if it'll clean anything up...even a little bit. If I did do this, I'd put the computer on one circuit (some say computers can cause noise and ideally have their own circuit in a studio). The active Monitors / Sub, interface and Rackmount gear on the other. And my Guitar amps (marshalls and other hi watt amps) and pedal power on the other...for example Also, what are your thoughts on "audiophile" hospital grade outlets? Some say it improves connections

@@enduringcharm Following

@@enduringcharm What guage wire do you recommend for studios / hifi wiring? 10awg Romex?

@Levi You have extra space in the box, so that's great. There are a number of code issues to consider as far as any conduit you use, number of connections in a given size box, cable type, etc. I'll assume you are working with your local code officials on that sort of stuff. As far as the need to dedicate a breaker to a single receptacle, there's really no need. From what you describe, you might choose to have two circuits, one for the amps and rack gear and the other for the computer and pedals or whatever. But, install multiple outlets for each circuit so you aren't forced later to use power strips and extension cords. I'd suggest doing quadboxes since the additional cost is minimal. Similarly, do 20 amp breakers, since the cost is minimal over 15 amp breakers. With 20 amp breakers you'll use 12 gauge wire, of course. My point is that you won't know what the future holds, so by giving yourself plenty of outlets and power you can be flexible for future needs. Let's say you end up with two 20 amp circuits, perhaps with each one holding two or three quadbox outlets. You'll have to look at the physical layout of your room to see what's best. You don't need any special receptacles. You can avoid the bargain bin ones only because they tend to become loose in short order, but the decent grade sold at the box stores are fine. What you CAN do to ensure clean power is to wrap the wires around the screw terminals rather than use the stab connections on the back. And, take special care to check the grounds all the way back to the box and in the box. Then make certain the ground strap to the outdoors is done well and the rod goes deep into the ground. Any electrical noise issues you have are far more likely to be related to your audio gear and cables. So, save your money for that stuff and for good mic cables. There isn't a need to obsess over the electrical supply as long as you do a clean install. This video might be helpful: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pLCpiNOVvZjVZn0.html

It's interesting how different inspectors have their own pet peeves. Most of the electrical and plumbing inspectors I work with barely glance at the work if they know the company that did it. Same with my building inspections. But sometimes an inspector is obsessed with one aspect of a job.

There are NUMEROUS rules about running electric to detached structures and, yes, there are also guidelines about run length. It's far more complicated than replacing one type of wire with another. This is way more than I can cover in a comment, so I highly suggest having a local electrician scope out the situation for you, even if you do the work yourself. You'll also need to submit an electrical permit with your local building department and you'll have at least two inspections, one for the ditch and the rough electric and one for the finish electric. You may need additional ground rods, a subpanel, or other items.

Oh, thank you for your timely reply :) I bought a place in the country, out in the middle of no where. It had 2 trailers on it and a number of sheds where this one is actually connected to the other trailer. I rent that trailer out but use the shed myself and don't want it on their bill :) I don't know how long the shed has been connected but that trailer was new in 1983. The trailer I live in was new in 2002 and I've been here 4-1/2 yrs myself. I just wanted to do a good job switching the power over. Thank you for the proper direction :) I'll call licensed electricians and get one worth his salt. I'll call the state and get them to come out and inspect it. I'll get a permit and make sure someone else is responsible for any mishaps and wash my hands of it. I'm glad I ran into you to know all the different unfortunate things I could get into. I believe you may have even saved me from harm as I will no longer attempt any DIY projects requiring even the basic electrical knowledge :) I will say, now I don't see the logic in explaining the operations of a breaker box to the lay person on KZfaq , especially considering the live wires you spoke about ? But , your the man and I'm grateful you straightened me out. Thank you so much for your generous consideration and timely reply to my issue,Sincerely .............................

It's a big country and though most of it follows a relatively current code model, there are pockets where code officials don't really exist or where homeowners basically do as they like. Maybe you live in one of those pockets. Elsewhere there are pretty stiff fines and a pretty good likelihood of being caught. In my area, for example, the municipality checks their building department records every time a house is sold. buyers often check, too, before they make an offer. Anyway, there are dozens of variables to consider when running electric from one structure to another and it's more than I could cover here. Grounding and bonding rules, especially, can be difficult to figure out. More than once I've had seasoned electricians and building inspectors arguing what is right and what is wrong. There are also detailed rules about burying cables, about the type of sub panel you can use, about GFCI/AFCI, and more. So, I'm sure you're capable of doing the work, but a consult with an electrician or code official could make it easier to get your ducks in a row and avoid running afoul of your building department or insurance company if carry insurance there.

@@enduringcharm ......... yes, i'm sure you are right :) Maybe these details have been missed from sale to sale. I did however purchase the property w/ a bank loan. I paid 40% down to get my term shorter and payments very low. The bank insisted on a # of things including an appraisal of the property which helped me tremendously. Although they did not find anything wrong w/ the electricity from trailer to shed in both instances, they did find that the 'rental' (second trailer) on the property needed a whole new septic system. I believe the previous owners had to pay near $5000. to replace the old one in order to make the sale. It saved my @#$. In any case, you've given me some important things to think about and for that I am grateful :) Sincerely ...............................

Excellent--that's why I made the video! Some 240 circuits only have two hots and a ground (known as 3-wire) and some have two hots, a neutral and a ground (known as 4-wire). What you install will depend on what you are using the circuit for.

I'm not sure I follow your question. If you are asking about adding a new subpanel, there are different ways of wiring one and the electrical code has specific requirements depending on your circumstances. Grounding, for example, can become complicated in some instances. Sometimes subpanels are just fed off of a breaker in the main panel, in which case if you cut power in the main you can safely wire the new breaker. But, there are a lot of variables, so I highly suggest you find a local electrician to evaluate your particular circumstance.

I live in a condo unit and each unit has its own shutdown outside the electrical box panel. I need to replace a FPE panel in my condo unit so when looking at the panel options I see panel with main lugs and panel with main breaker. Since there is a disconnect outside my condo is it necessary to have a main break shut off in the sub panel? Would that be redundant if there is one? Thanks!

In my area I have seen condos with the main disconnect located well outside somewhere, effectively making the box in each condo a sub-panel. It seems weird to me! I'd rather have a main breaker located inside where I can find it quickly. Anyway, the requirements differ by where you are and sometimes by the condo association itself. You'll need to get a permit for a replacement panel anyway, so I suggest you ask your local code official or a local electrician. It would be foolish for me to try and give you advice from afar.

Foxxy Boo The NEC answer to your question is MLO(Main Lugs Only) is acceptable for a sub panel. Reason: overcurrent protection is about protecting the conductors from overheating. The breaker in the main panel protects the conductors to the sub panel. So, in this video, the main breaker in the subpanel is a switch to turn off the bus bars within the panel and is totally acceptable.

There is the box cover to protect users, which was off for this video so I could show you the inside of the box. As far as backfeeding, the danger is that when power has failed somebody could hook up a generator without shutting off the main. The generator might be backfed through a dryer or oven receptacle, for example, and that would effectively deliver power to the rest of the box in the opposite direction it would normally travel. If the mains are off that electric will be limited to the house. If the mains are left on, the power could travel to the street and potentially shock a lineman working there. It's the "hot" cables which are the issue, though, not the neutral. There are lockout devices you can install which can safely ensure that backfeeding does not travel to the street.

Actually, the ground in your residential box may be terminated various ways depending on the electrical code at the time of installation and some other factors. It is common to see a physical ground rod inserted into the dirt outside of your home, with 8 feet of the rod touching earth and a large gauge wire connected back to the box. To be clear, though, the main point of the ground in a circuit is to provide an alternative path for electrical flow so that a human being doesn't become that path instead. A circuit will function without a ground, it just isn't as safe.

You have one leg of power that's out. There are two 120 volt "hot" lines that come into your house, and those lines are fed in an alternating pattern in your box, or combined to make a 240 volt circuit. You need to put a meter on the two leads entering the box to see if the problem is in the street or in your box. It's possible one leg from the power company is down, due to a faulty transformer. Or, it's possible you have a physical problem in your breaker box or in your meter box that is preventing one power leg from reaching the breakers.

@@enduringcharm i had electric come out an outside is good, took meter inside my 2 main wired are good. 120 each side. But when u take meter to the poles coming down the panel thats where everyother one is good.

That's good, you've narrowed it down. Unfortunately there are a thousand different styles of box, so I can't suggest much from here. But, if you have confirmed power to both "hot" leads coming into the box that means that either one of the main breakers (or one side of the main breaker) is bad or that there is a physical issue with the buss bar. Depending on your comfort level you could replace the main(s) or swap them to see if the problem switches sides. The safety issue is no joke, though, so be careful. You may have no option but to pull the electric company meter in order to cut power (which is not supposed to be done by homeowners). Or, you may have another box or a switch located elsewhere that could cut power to the mains. You may want to raise the white flag and have an electrician look at the main breakers and buss bar if you feel uncomfortable about working live.

Re-wiring means pulling wire through existing walls and ceilings. You need to cut access holes, use special tools, and generally spend a lot of time fussing. Then you need to come back to repair and paint over the access holes. As for the circuit you have down right now, the likely culprits are either the breaker itself or you may have a GFI outlet in the circuit that has popped.

Three phase power is a different animal, and you would need to have your power company install a different kind of service or else you would install a special transformer to convert single phase to three phase. It's expensive and unless you are running a factory floor or a giant computer center it's unlikely you would need it.

Well, I can only guess from a distance, but generally speaking if you are continually popping a breaker it indicates that there is a problem with the circuit. That problem could be an overloaded circuit if there are other devices on it. An oven should have a dedicated circuit, but that doesn't mean yours was installed correctly. It could mean that the circuit (and breaker) is undersized for the oven you now have installed, meaning that it was originally sized for an oven which drew less electricity and when a new one was installed it was too much for the circuit. It could mean that your oven itself has a problem, such as a short circuit from internal wiring or a heating element. As far as likelihood, it would depend on the age and condition of your oven and how long the circuit has been in place. I would certainly start by checking the oven. Now, is it POSSIBLE to have a bad breaker? Yes, it is, but that is fairly rare.

There's a main shut-off somewhere. You may be looking at a sub-panel and there is a main panel somewhere else, or there may be a single main breaker out near the meter. I've seen some condos built that way, which seems odd to me. Outdoors by the meter will be a box with the main breaker, which means you'd have to run outside to turn off power in an emergency! Look around, there must be a main shut-off by code.

You're asking about the practice called "back-feeding." The reason it's taboo is because it can be dangerous in a number of ways. First, if the main breaker is not off your generator can actually feed the grid, and potentially hurt a lineman out working nearby. Second, there is the potential for wiring to overheat and cause a fire if the demand is not handled well. Essentially, the taboo practice is done by turning off the main, and plugging a generator into a 240v circuit with a large breaker and bigger diameter wire, such as a dryer circuit or an oven/range circuit. The breakers will allow electric to flow in either direction. Now the circuit you plugged into has become a pseudo-main. Other circuits will be fed if they are left on. I'd be lying if I said I've never done it, since in an emergency you do what you have to do. Leaving the main off is paramount. Whether the breaker you are back-feeding will protect the circuit and the rest of the box is an open question. Some breakers will work in both directions, but I don;t know about all. And, to answer your question directly, if no other circuit breaker is on except the one you are back-feeding then only that circuit will be active. Be careful. Better to install a manual or automatic generator switch if it isn't an emergency.

@@enduringcharm To be on the safe side I will continue to run a few extension cords for a couple of hours if necessary. Thanks for the info!

We may be arguing semantics here, but for 240 volt operation (sometimes called "split phase") the two hot legs are 180 degrees offset, not identical. It is single phase, but the wave pattern on a scope will be offset.

It's been a year, you dead?

So how'd it go?

Well, you have a good first name. Hopefully the Lord was with you *grin*

@@adhaman1 LMFAO

RIP Jesus Ramirez - June 15th 2019. He loved garage work and puppies.

It's a measure of current flow, short for "ampere". Voltage or volts is a measure of potential, amps are a measure of flow, and Ohms are a measure of resistance. An old analogy compares this to a water hose. Volts are like water pressure, amps are like water flow, and ohms are like the internal diameter of the hose. Not a perfect analogy, but it gives you a rough idea. You can learn a little more from my video on meters: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/nZaJhc6o25qUomw.html

I didn't actually touch that contact with my finger! I guess the camera angle just made it appear that way.

Alternating current sends electrons down a path from the power plant, through various cables and transformers and into the house, alternating 60 times a second. The house is provided with two "hot" cables with 120 volt potential each, and one "neutral" cable which allows for the return of the electrons to the source. Without the neutral you have no flow of electrons. That's all you need to light up a lamp. So why is the ground wire there in a receptacle? Actually, it didn't used to be! Go back enough decades and a receptacle only had two prongs. The ground wire was added as a safety measure so that if something went wrong in the house there was an alternate path for the electrons to return to the power company or to the actual earth. It doesn't matter which, as long as the path doesn't include Mrs. Smiths arm and leg! So, if you see a breaker box where the ground and neutral wires are tied to the same bus, it's because at that point in the circuit the purpose of safety has already been accomplished. The electrons which might have come via the house ground wire due to some problem can return to the power company via the neutral cable and no harm is done. You will also note that the breaker box can be grounded to actual earth so that if the power company neutral has a problem, the electrons still have a place to go.

Josue V Please read my general comment. It might help. Also, you need to watch some quality videos on how transformers work.

To cut power to the entire house, including the breaker box, the electrical meter itself is pulled from it's box. This needs to be done by the power company or by an electrician approved by the power company.

enduringcharm, thank you, I’m a plumbers apprentice, one year away from acquiring my journeyman. I also find electrical intriguing.

I work with electricians and plumbers in my business, and I can tell you that electricians have the better trade! With the exception of hot attics, they have little in the way of unpleasant work environments that plumbers (and carpenters) have. Residential electrical is not complicated and the code requirements no more difficult than plumbing. Commercial electric can get into more difficult areas. Electricians get top dollar because electric is a mystery to most people!

Dramatic! And, stay tuned for the shocking conclusion!

It can get tricky explaining electrical in videos meant for general consumption, plus, the terminology can vary regionally. It's a balance between detail and video length! Earth ground requirements can also vary. I remember well some years ago when my electrician and my electrical inspector argued for several days about the requirements for my own barn/shop when I built that! Initially I had the rebar in the foundation and a separate rod driven into the ground for the panel as a required earth ground by the inspector. By the end of the project those ground cables were cut and abandoned in the ground. To this day I still don't know who was technically correct--the problem seemed to be confusion over how an outbuilding was treated in the code versus a main structure.

enduringcharm You are exactly correct. The part of the NEC that tells how to connect one building from another changed back and forth about 4 times in my 35 years of designing electrical systems. If looked as a sub panel, absolutely no grounding Electrode conductor allowed. But one building to another, then it depended on which version of NEC was currently adopted.

If you walked around for a day with a working carpenter, electrician or plumber you'd be shocked (pun intended) at the risks we take during everyday work! Your perspective changes, I guess, when you do the same things week in and week out and become accustomed to the risk. Not to worry, though, I'm still alive and kicking!

Ha! That's one way to look at it.

It's okay. I've survived worse risk. The re-coding of wire color is a common occurrence. Sometimes the cable doesn't come in the colors you need or you are re-purposing existing wire which is the wrong color. Using tape to re-ode the wire is accepted practice and part of a code inspection.

It's really not unsafe to have the panel open if you're paying attention. I do far more sketchy things every day at work!

Don’t mind the nay sayers lol people just like to complain for no reason