Thank you so much - I appreciate that. Glad you enjoyed this video and I hope to upload many more. Have a good week Lee :)

Agreed

"Nothing makes an expert in any field or endeavor as much as practice and practice again, along with an ongoing commitment to consistency and, learning from one's mistakes and not making them again" - me

What kind of Bondo do you use

Yep agreed🤘

You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it - happy holidays

You're welcome

That's good to hear Robert. I you or your son have any ?s feel free to ask. Have a great week :)

I'm glad you appreciate that - there's a lot of good ways to fix things this is just one.

You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it :)

That story right there is what gave bondo a bad name. If done right it can last as long as a new panel. Great story!

@@LakesideAutobody True! I've even learned how to do lead work for certain applications. Standard body filler in thicknesses less that 1/8th of an inch will last 'forever' if sealed correctly. And with "USC All-Metal" and Bondo "Bondo-Glass" fiberglass based body fillers, used in some applications, moisture can be negated to ruin work later in the life of the repair. At 69, I'm still doing rust repair for people and metal repairs for myself. Gotta love it to do it! 😁

@@jessejohnson159 With those skills, you can drive almost any car you've ever wanted. Nothing's better than walking in the next day after a paint job dries and unmasking the car. The smell, the shine, the feel of fresh smooth paint. Good times - Happy Holidays

@@LakesideAutobody I also get lot's of satisfaction from doing a near perfect metal repair on older cars and trucks where the repair will last for a very long time. Happy Holidays to you and yours at Lakeside!

Thanks so much - glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for subbing :)

Well, he knew why he was applying the filler there - there was a low spot. He just didn't know why there was a low spot there is all.

I agree short strand is good to get a level area , and Less bondo .... but here this guy is using no more than 1/8 of an inch likely

Thanks for the kind words Pigeye - you're welcome too :)

You're welcome - let me know how it goes. Jerry

@@LakesideAutobody I just came in from the garage after welding the new pieces of steel in place. Not pretty but with some grinding it is going to be a patch that should last the rest of this truck's life. Forgot to turn on the gas and had the dials wrong but welds turned out better after that. Learning as I go. Thanks.

@@joelongrid7625 That's great to hear. I'm sure they'll be just fine. What are you going to do with the bed - paint it ,.put in a bed liner, spray on bed liner?

It's stronger too doesn't breath moisture like standard filler

But I really like lead instead of the standard fillers and all metal for skim coating

Bondo has proven to hold up just fine , if used correctly like here .... all metal can crack , it’s not as plyable.... thus guy is awesome and cares , it’s clear ....

lol...no one uses that garbage all metal anymore...its garbage

You're very welcome - I'll do my best to keep good ones coming.

Except it's the wrong way to do it

@@benolofson9732 explain

I appreciate that Nickolas - enjoy the weekend :)

Thank you so much for that story - lots of folks think that somehow a small overlap is going to rust instantly - it doesn't - the whole car is lap welded or pinch welded together at the factory and it lasts a good ten years before any rust starts.

Good suggestions.

@@LakesideAutobody ....what town are you located in Michigan?

@@LakesideAutobody i have a 1983 dodge b250 that im working on. Ive stopped at a couple bodyshops to get an idea of what it would cost to have them fix 2 separate rust spots.. of the 3 ships I stopped at, 3 of them didnt take me seriously. Basically I was told this isnt a hotrod/muscle car/ collectors car or whatever and its not worth working on. Im building a van thats been in my mind for 20 something years. And im definitely serious. I have money. And I want the work done. The spots that need repair are not difficult to get to. In my novice opinion. They should be pretty common repairs. And easy enuff to do that Ive been contemplating doing it myself. I just cant help thinking that a bodyshop would produce better results and thats what I want.

Finally somebody who make sense! Well said.

@@whatyoumakeofit6635 Let me guess where they are... middle of the van at the bottom or rocker. Fenders are fine - quarters are fine. Doors - so-so

I have a few good rust hole videos coming up next week so they will probably help you out a lot - Quarter Panel Rust Repair - Front or Back of Wheel. Jerry

Same here going through rust repair on my old Volvo too!

I got an 05 Volvo S40 that has a damaged qt panel need to repair too! Will try welding with flux core

@@amthevision8931 NO no no. Flux core is for heavier metals

Thanks Derrick - that's nice to hear. I appreciate the support my friend. Have a good weekend :)

You're welcome - Thanks for watching - Happy Holidays

Thanks, feels good to keep the cost down for sure.

FordTorino70 we

Thanks Super - I'm glad you enjoyed it - have a good week :)

That's good to hear Kohji - have a good week :)

You're welcome my friend

Me too, and I came here just for that reason, I think even some tips on welding will help a lot.

Thanks - glad you like the simple approach - that's really all I can do. I'll keep them coming - have a great weekend.

This is not great advice. This is shortcuts that do not yield a durable job. Lap welds die quickly of condensate and just start the whole process over again.

Here's a good video on the truth about lab and butt weld for auto body - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gK95otF7tLzWn2g.html You'll eventually go with lap for every repair if you do the work long enough - with lap you can fix any rust hole - see the videos coming up on "Extreme Rust Hole Repairs" - right around March 2023

@@LakesideAutobody thank you :)

@@tonygoshive785 You're welcome - It's good to be proficient in both butt and lap as you'll certainly use both depending on the situation - nice talking to you :)

Yep - today, you wouldn't stand for it. They would probably see it in your eyes and not even challenge you. I think a lot of young people get burned like that - it's a darn shame too 😢

Nice - you must have been a darn good oxy-ace welder.

Dave, I used to work the same as you. This is a get in get out fast an cheap job. Though I am now retired I have gone back to Oxy Acetylene welding, best for dirty rusty metal. An a bit of a breeze does not affect it. Mig is great for beginners working on nice clean new metal. As to Bondo etc, only to be used for filling Dinks.

That is so funny because I thought the same thing when I watched it back while editing. I'm laughing.

@@LakesideAutobody :) For real it's pretty dangerous. . Anyway nice job. I will do with fiberglass because it's easier as a beginner.

I always wear a welding helmet when watching these vids. Of course, I can't see a damn thing, but I feel much safer.

@@marshalllhiepler :))

not to worry, your computer screen can't emit the level of light that the welding machine is emitting

You're welcome Recharge :)

Thanks for watching and have a good week :)

In case sht happens :)

Toilet paper WAS the cheapest panel cleaning product which didn't leave any lint or residue when used with prepsol.

That toilet paper is likely used in his compressed air filter.

👍💯🎄😊

That would be perfectly fine - that's how we did it most of the time where I worked. I weld it up solid in the videos because I get a lot of negative comments about it... I feel it lasts just as long 'casue it rusts from the bottom up anyway.

I agree! When I weld sheet metal I always seem to get burn through holes. I think all those extra close knit tacks are overkill. As long as the sheet metal is secure. Of course if this were a structural piece or needed to hold fluid that would be a different story.

@Sheps Yep. I've had good luck both ways. Welds right next to each other or leave space. As long as you tap the seam down and fill with either fiberglass reinforced filler or even regular filler you'll be fine. This vid will help on knocking the seams down - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/orybmpqEzLrbY2Q.html

Usually I wear them but for the video it's hard if I have to adjust something quick or get something fast.

Glad it helped - thanks for the comment :)

Much welcome

How's living in Mississippi?

I can't imagine there would be a great need for rust repairs in Mississippi? You don't get a lot of foul weather there do you?

I purposely left it open but I used to also repair the inner panel too. Leaving it open allows salt water and debris to exit easily and not get trapped. Your choice. I like a solid inner panel but lots of drainage.

Glad you like it - thanks

Thanks - I'm glad I can share it - Happy Holidays

Thanks a lot AP - I appreciate the kind words. Merry Christmas to you my friend and Happy New Year :)

Please direct the viewer to a video fixing this type of damage with your method - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aZyqnsZqurfFhKc.html or this kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fs-nibeEvqzLcmg.html also see this video for more information on these types of repairs - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/br6RjaWqnK2nZ3U.html

You're welcome Rick - Happy New Year :)

Thanks BIll - I appreciate that :)

Your one of those guys ! How do you know that !! … filler over metal has been going on for years and is still going. !!!

They fill any defects over the metal at the factory. I'm sure it's fine

Nasty repair I would kick him out of my shop

Absolute Baloney ! A thick layer of body filler is as good as High Build Primer, and there is no logic to applying filler on top of primer when better adhesion is guaranteed onto bare metal ! Primer is alleged to be hygroscopic, and Body Filler is not !

Also, make sure the metal is graded!!

.023 - Have a good Thanksgiving

Dam, my welder, tips and drive wheels only go down to 0.30”.

@@deankay4434 it should be possible do machine 0,023 wheels if you have a lathe.. or buy spares..0.023 makes a big difference.. a lot easier to weld

marcus w >You are right on the money with you idea. Sheet metal is a different challenge from frames, exhaust and other mechanical task. Unfortunately, the job required makes this drive wheel expensive as the drill the hole in large bar stock, broach the key-way, center it in the chuck and make several passes to achieve a concentric O.D., cut 1/2 of the 0.023”, then cut it loose with a parting tool. Other that, it’s easy. I wish! But, I just wanted to tell you thanks for the excellent idea. Hopefully, I could take my drive wheel into a welding supply and get lucky with something they have or could order. I have shim stock in my tool box down to 0.001” used back on vehicles to go 1 under and 2 under on the other bearing shells. A trick we used in the late 60’s and early 70’s from a 23 Chrysler tech who works 11 years at a speed shop. He and I build his shop behind his house, put one air/oil lift and could close the doors with a school bus and two cars inside. Carl was the nicest man I ever met and has since passed. Auto ASE Master since 78, now retired. Thanks much!

@@deankay4434 Its allways possible to buy another welding machine and sell the old one...or buy an extra. I am from Sweden and I payed 250 usd for ar mig/ mag welder.if you use gas then you skuld have drive wheels produced for solid wire..flux wire wheels has a rougher surface in order to get a better grip. DO NOT hav to much tension on de drive wheels ...when you feed wire perpenedicular to a surface then there should allmoust be slippage on the drive wheels. If not the thinner 0.023 wire tend to buckle near the drive wheels

Thanks so much for the support. This really is the standard procedure for rust repair in Michigan body shops. I worked at some very good quality body shops with great reputations and this is how it was done and how they still do it there. There are some shops that use adhesives for certain types of rust repair too. It's good to know every method and use the method that fits the repair and I will be providing those on this channel. Again, glad you liked it and thanks. Have a good weekend. BTW - like the "limestone cowboy" name - good channel too :)

Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/br6RjaWqnK2nZ3U.html or kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aNVjaseJkpPbYH0.html It really is the best method and the only practical way to do it. Metal is only 6 hairs thick so you can't be trying to metal finish patches with a grinder - you'll end up with paper thin welds and adjacent metal. Hope that helps :)

He is not doing a 100k dollar resto he is patching a rust hole. in Michigan they have a lot of them

@@donniedale3522 You seem to not understand the repair...

After the repair is finished - I like to either coat the back with undercoating if I can reach it - If not I squirt some used motor oil inside the panel near the repair which eventually coats everything around the patch like an old valve cover - nice and greasy - never rusting

How about if the repair was a qaurter panel how would you make inside look like it was never a repair. Love the video, and I believe shops will do exactly what you did on video

@@tony1798 On this repair, I cut out the rust on the inner panel and just left it open so that salt water and debris could exit easily. On a customer car or classic car you would repair the inner panel also, undercoat the back and make that look nice too. Hope that answers you ?

Thank goodness I got my vehicle in Texas so it has virtually no rust but I notice you can dang near see through the entire vehicle due to rust holes when they are driven in snowy areas

@@marcushennings9513 Absolutely. Living in the rust belt is tough. The salt used on the roads really mess cars and trucks up - brake lines, fuel lines, tanks, body panels - all take a beating.

Thanks for the sub - here's a follow up on this repair 5 years later - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n8qif92k35jJfJs.html

I appreciate your kind words Nick - have a great week :)

With respect, that's not true. Please watch these 2 short vids - let me know what you think. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aNVjaseJkpPbYH0.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/br6RjaWqnK2nZ3U.html

houseoffire72 oil spray all repairs

@@nickking1510 Absolutely! Works very well - that stuff creeps into every crevice.

I drive older cars and trucks I even spray the frame of my 1976 vette and all suspension components the car frame look like new after 38 years .Also own a 1992 tracker 4x4 looks like new oil it annually driven in rust belt ,only draw back is if you need to weld

Lap welds over bare-ass metal will usually do that! (Rust back out)

As a body,paint guy myself.Its 150 dollars labor for repair and spot paint,plus 100 bucks material.but many professional shops charge 500 bucks for this same repair.

Never give warranty on rust ,there a reason it's call auto motive Cancer ,when you fix it your just buying time

@@filibertobarrera3839 yeah I'd say $500 minimum. Especially in 2022, a lot of the masters are retiring

Here's a video on exactly that - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/orybmpqEzLrbY2Q.html

See these videos for information on why the highest quality Michigan/Detroit area body shops use this method: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gK95otF7tLzWn2g.html *** Also see Eastwood’s explanation: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qNZ4aJOczZq7YGQ.html *** For longevity of this type of repair see: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/br6RjaWqnK2nZ3U.html

Bill, You said what I was about to say. That is not a weld, just a collection of tacks. Very poor workmanship.

I don't know what you at lakeside auto body seen in your Eastwood demo , but it sure looks like a nice but weld with an edge bent in it with the special vise grips. Again as I said if it's actually welded with correct penetration then when it's ground down the weld is not compromised ,the weld is actually still thicker then the material you welded because the is penetrated reinforcement on the back side still. If the back side of the weld doesn't look like the front side it really isn't welded correctly. If you have a piece of sheet metal lapped on top of a panel that spot will always be to high unless you beat the whole area down and fill like crazy with Bondo.

@@billpickelheimer8142 For longevity of this type of repair see: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/br6RjaWqnK2nZ3U.html Honestly you won't find larger body shops butt welding patch panels - that's more of a tv/magazine thing because they want people to believe that cars are fixed w/o filler in the "best shops"

@@deutschedog3259 For longevity of this type of repair see: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/br6RjaWqnK2nZ3U.html

It's your choice really. My philosophy is this: New quarters, rockers, door skins are all installed with lap or plug welds. The auto industry uses 5000 welds on average per car and none of them are butt welds. If a new car lasts 10 years driving in salt water so will a lap welded repair if done right. Plus, there's not a rust hole out there that can't be fixed easily with a combo of butt and lap. You'd spend way too much time grinding the welds flush on really big rust repairs and I know you'd end up with paper thin welds and paper thin adjacent sheet metal. One more thing - It wouldn't fly in a body shop and you would soon be let go for being slow, wasting discs, and looking crazy trying to butt weld stuff. Really! pls see this vid - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/br6RjaWqnK2nZ3U.html

Lakeside Autobody If its a crappy beater car I get it, but a proper rust repair should be butt welded. I get what you say about time to grind welds flush and yes it’s time consuming and yes the adjacent metal can get thin if you are not good. I guess I’m just in the restoration mindset where lap welding patch panels is not acceptable.

@@stricht8 With respect, how can you guarantee the thickness of your work after you grind it flush. I promise there is paper thin areas in the welds and the adjacent metal. No one's a robot welder. Plus, I never see you guys fix anything bigger than a 2x2 inch perfect square, you never show the back side, or the whole process like you're hiding something (filler, primer etc) I know what the back of a lap repair looks like - 22 gauge metal. Would you butt weld a new rocker panel, quarter panel, or door skin on? Heck no - it's all lap. So lap weld here yet butt weld there - ???? Nice talking with you - Jerry

Thanks - glad you enjoyed it. If you have any questions, feel free to ask. I usually get to the questions once or twice a day.

Thanks BE :)

I'm glad you enjoyed it

Sorry about the late reply - you don't have to remove the panel.

You're welcome Brian - thanks for watching :)

Go easy on hardener, to give extra working time, and also to retain some FLEXIBILITY of the fiberglass. Excessive hardener will create BRITTLE fiberglass. Use a heat gun to speed hardening if too slow; NOT extra hardener

I will do a video on that - there are a few different ways you can match the patch to a curve. Good topic for a video.

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks again! Look forward to video. Your really good!

@@adollarshort1573 Thanks - glad you enjoy them - have a good weekend

Thanks for the tip - I'll have to check it out.

@@LakesideAutobody silicon bronze wire is what you want to use.😊

Thanks - let me know how it goes for you :)

Thanks - I'll do a video in a couple of years on how this truck is holding up. I plan on it being my car towing vehicle.

Thanks for your input Andy - Happy New Year to you and your family :)

I appreciate that my friend - have a good week :)

You’re welcome 😊

Feel free to ask ?s as you go - I answer about twice a day - doesn't matter which video or ? - Jerry

Here's a good video on Butt vs Lap if interested - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gK95otF7tLzWn2g.html Have a good weekend Darth B 😊

👍🛠😊

Thanks Anthony :)

You're welcome :)

Good tip. Good to put out small fires too :)

@@LakesideAutobody yes lol

That's funny - hopefully you don't work Saturdays - Have a great weekend :)

I appreciate that - have a good week :)

With respect, lap welding is how all body shops in Michigan repair rust on late model vehicles (welding or adhesive). Strictly butt welding a patch panel, which has become popularized by the internet and TV, is not the best quality repair on today's thinner metal and there are many good reasons why professional body shops don't do it. Shops use a combination of both lap and butt (butt for spots that can’t be knocked down like edges) on almost every patch but would never just butt two pieces of metal up (gap or no gap), weld it, then grind away at the area attempting to metal finish it. Here why with good reason - especially Eastwood’s starting 22 seconds in: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qNZ4aJOczZq7YGQ.html * kzfaq.info/get/bejne/g8x7n7GCq5PTZH0.html * kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m5-Snb2Qut7Yeps.html Today’s metal is .030. That is literally 6 hairs (hair is .005) thick. You start grinding on that and the result is paper welds & surrounding metal. In the end it’s what works for you though. Keep in mind, you won’t find anyone butt welding in professional shops. Surely you’re not going to butt weld and metal finish this: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aZyqnsZqurfFhKc.html or some of my other rust repair videos. Use small overlap, weld solid and you won’t have to worry about moisture - especially if you keep the drain holes clean (most important thing in rust prevention). Note that the opening of the seam is upside down on the inside (no moisture trapped). Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/br6RjaWqnK2nZ3U.html or kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aNVjaseJkpPbYH0.html

You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it. Have a good week :)

Master bodger!

Thanks 👍 I appreciate the kind words Hector - have a good weekend my friend :)

What if you have a round rust hole? What if you come to an edge of a wheel well - just sort or stuff it up in there? What if you run into a pinch weld at the bottom of a rocker panel. That's a good thought but it doesn't work most of the time. Learn one good way and do it the same every time - you'll get good that way. This is how it's done in professional shops and there's good reason for it. See these videos for information on why the highest quality Michigan/Detroit area body shops use this method: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/gK95otF7tLzWn2g.html *** Also see Eastwood’s explanation: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qNZ4aJOczZq7YGQ.html *** For longevity of this type of repair see: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/br6RjaWqnK2nZ3U.html

@@LakesideAutobody I really don't know what you're talking about, i was a panel beater when we used to use lead as a filler before bog came in, so i think i know what im talking about too. Im not sure you understood what i said. My way worked every time, and the panel welded is always under the main panel.

Absolutely, i couldn't believe the guy here was putting the patch on the OUTSIDE. I almost always butt weld , to avoid moisture traps, but if I lap, I put the patch inside.

You are absolutely right on the rust goes uphill. Starts at the very bottom of the panel where the salt water and debris gets trapped. I like the idea of tight first layer of filler too it probably does help a lot. Have a good week :)

Use fiberglass pre-mix to seal and also to create a structurally stronger surface, esp at edges. Polyester filler can hold water and increase rusting under your repair. Fiberglass seals, and the rust has to work ABOVE your repaired area before you see it again. Bubbling bodywork indicates water contamination.

I'll check it out, thanks. A lot of shops are using panel adhesive too but I have real good luck with this method. Have a great weekend.

Thanks for your input Chrisst. I think that's probably the story in many body shops today too. Have a good weekend :)

Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair if done correctly: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/br6RjaWqnK2nZ3U.html or kzfaq.info/get/bejne/aNVjaseJkpPbYH0.html

You're welcome Justin - glad you liked the video :)

Thanks :)

👍🔨

Just knock the finished welded patch down and fill. If you tried to stick it underneath you would run into problems trying to shove it in there around irregular shapes, pinch welds, door bottoms, edges etc. Some of the patch would be outside and some inside. Although I've done that when the situation calls for it. Good thinking :)

ExACTly !!

uhyeahnooo 👍🏻 totally

Thats exactly how i do it. So much easier and you dont have to pound the metal down!

You're welcome - glad you liked it :)