Fascinating stuff. This would be a good little earner for you with high schools and colleges. Charge about half for joins and sell new blades cut from a roll. I've never done a hardened blade but I've done thousands of blades for high schools and we made really good money for our school but the machines I used were before the days of hardened teeth. Mine had an advance that pushed on the tooth and a 3 corner file that was held in a frame and spring loaded. Both were motor driven and we let the blade go around 3 or 4 times depending on the condition of the blade. The setting tool was a rocking device with a tooth pusher that we wound by hand. It was all manually adjusted but the pushers had a slope and one size fitted all blades. For joining, we hand filed a two tooth taper (4-6TPI) and silver soldered the joint (silver solder shim) in a clamping device with one clamp for each end and a quick clamp in the centre to cool the joint. We would join and clamp then temper and clamp. If a blade snapped we would shorten it by two teeth to keep the set in pairs. If there were gullet cracks we would supply a new blade from a 100m roll. Schools had to supply the max and min sizes for their machines. Eventually, we stopped silver soldering and purchased a butt welding machine which pushed the ends together like a spot welder then ground and tempered the joint. Also try steel wool and phosphoric acid for surface rust but always wipe off with a damp cloth.

Thank you for the video. Here's a tip for you: when removing the band blade, advance the saw carriage to the far end of the log bed. That way, you don't have to step through the mill to access both wheels and the band blade.

I’ve heard that the starting point should at the weld. The rational for this is the tooth to tooth distance is fixed and repeatable . The teeth straddling the weld is most likely different that the other teeth.

put the cord from the dremmel cord on the inside, lift the blade over to put on or off.

The old boys in our sawmill using a big Robinson Resaw used to have a stick with rags tightly bound to it ,they dip that in some diesel and hold it on the blade back from the teeth while the saw running down after switching off .This stopped rust and dissolved any gum or sap left on the blade

Can't remember who, but I saw a you tube video that showed the best way to uncoil a blade was to just toss it behind you in the grass (low and at the ground). Seemed to work very well, just remember to keep walking forward as you do this.

Just a helpful suggestion. When I do chainsaw chain I take all my chains for a particular saw and set up for one side and do all the chains and then set up for the other side and them all. So then I only have minor adjustments for each chain and all the chains have the same consistent angle.

you all have a good day

thats a good safty tip indeed, jerry ferguson.

I have the lumber mate 2000 and the same sharpener.. plus the setter.. love all 3 of em .. 👍 From Cadillac Michigan.. good video

Awesome video

Glad you went through the sharpening process. I have watched my Dad sharpen a circular saw, change the teeth,(insert tooth type), and create the set, but have never seen the sharpening of a band saw. I also watched a video recently about hammering a circular saw. That was very interesting process. Thank you for your time.

Great job , when I was a kid my friends dad had a shed that he sharpened all types of blades. This video reminded me of that.

I laughed till I hurt when he unfolded that blade lmao!! I listened to his language funny funny funny I've been there!

That is as slick as ice

Loved this video! Everything was explained si that it was easily understood.

Very informative Troy thanks

Great video, Troy. Really enjoy your in-depth ‘How-to’ videos - so informative and easy to watch. Also glad you lost the mustache!

Just a thought, If you have an old washtub and a piece of plywood for a cover you could store the blades in it with a mixture of kerosene and gasoline, outside of course. I would think that would solve your rust issues and dissolve the sap that accumulates on the blades, then just a quick wipe should clean the blade. I guess that it would be something to try on one blade to see if it works. Just a senior thoughts on how to make chores go easier, you have your hands full with family, business, and farm. Good tatorial.

Its the same blade we used on our shake mill and sawed cedar shakes for the roof. I can't say how much it saved as I really never stopped to figure it out. I know that we were spending as much as two hundred a month and the blades could be held in mail for two or three days. If you don't have the amount of spares to get by then there is a loss of revenue as well. I finally got all the saws up and going and was looking at probably two thousand a month counting the blades they deemed unusable and would put new ones in that are safe as well as new. I ran my blades further than suggested and also was that sawyer so no one lost digits. Most sawyers after a few years were down to counting either seven or eight... lucky ones considered nine a good number an lots could still count ten. I never lost a finger but did have the tension spring break, the blade came crashing down and I jerked back to count to nine.... a rushed trip to the doctor about four miles from our place that evening I could still only count nine but I could see a large wrapper holding another one and it hurt for a while... poor feeling in that one is the trade off.

I was debating getting the Woodland Mills automatic sharpener (at about $100 less than this manual sharpener) but found a local mill owner about 5 minutes away who will sharpen and set them for about $6 each. Thats about $1000 between the sharpener and the setter that I don't have to spend. Point being ask around before you spend that kind of $. Enjoyed the lesson tho👍😎👌

I sharpen a blade by hand, left and right kerfs with a diamond disk and waste very little metal. It takes 35 minutes for a shop saw, I would imagine less with a large blade with fewer teeth.

Nice but those dremel tool rocks don't last but just a few minutes unless someone knows of a better grinding rock that will last a good while.

What an investment!

I notice you are turning the handle counter clockwise though the arrow directs you to turn clockwise. Also, the instruction manual says to ONLY turn the handle clockwise. Can you explain?

In my experience I would at the very minimum be checking your set each time. While running a blade friction can cause the blade to heat up and lose the set. Every blade I have checked the set on, has needed to be reset.

Thank you for the demonstration of the Norwood sharpener but i was surprised to see their price for the manual sharpener at $799. Woodland Mills has a auto sharpener for $100 less, disappointing to see Norwood over charging by such a wide margin. Walt

When you went outside to open the blade I expected you to come back covered in bandaids

Do you have to set the kirf? How often?

Do you intend to make one for the tooth setter

i would put a marker pen line, on the first sharpend tooth.?

lubricate your blades first with oil...not water then run it thru a piece of dry 4x4 and you have a sparkling clean blade ready for sharpening.even old rusty blades clean right up in one pass

Take the hand crank off and use your drill to advance the blade. You can finish a blade in 30 seconds flat. lol

Do you know how to get a copy of the instruction manual? I haven't seen the two step sharpening method(face then guilt/backside except for here). thanks

Doesn't then grindstone wear down a small amount with each contact so that it'll be taking off less as you work your way around the blade ?

I know there is a ton of variables but roughly how much wood can you cut on a sharp blade?

I have the same sharpener but just can't seem to achieve good results. After sharpening, I tend to get wavy cuts. I just can't get it dialed in.

A first for me . First one on💜👍

I don't have have problems with nice but yellow jackets are bad.any hole they try to take over

How do you put set in your saw blades .

Noticed he took the tension off after 2 weeks i was having breakage problems for a while with that my uncle worked for a large company larger sawmill he told me if the mill was going to be down over an hour they took the tension off the blade

when you shut down at the end of cutting give it a spray of WD40 and when you start up before cutting

Do you have the Dremel number for the sharpening stone

You are in my area... Will you sharpen my blades for fee? LOL

Have you ever thought of salvaging damaged blades and cutting them and splicing (welding) them together to make “re-built” blades ? After all they’re welded as they come from rolls of blade material, from the manufacturer. I don’t know if it’s worth the trouble but it’s an option if the $ are close in your budget. Carefully done you could have a number of pieces and welds in a blade. I’m not a sawyer so I have no idea what a new blade cost. I’m sure that you’d have to pay close attention to tooth spacing so your sharpener would work properly. An old wash tub would make a good blade cleaning container with any de-greasing detergent. I use degreasers to clean my table saw blades and it works well. Covered, it can be used for many years and if you need to, just add more water, and detergent. None flammable too.

Need the price on a saw mill sharp

Worth it when you're given the darn thing... For the price to buy it you can get around 25 new factory blades. I have the lm29 myself, and the amount of lumber I get off of nearly 30 blades is such a huge amount that using the blade as a one time consumable is very easy to swallow. It sounds wasteful, but in my opinion it's just not worth the price of the rig or effort to do otherwise. It should be noted, make sure you clean your logs. Heaven forbid, if you're ripping dirty, muddy logs all day, I suppose then a sharpener is a pretty good idea, though I pity the poor soul so frequently replacing blades!

Not to be offending But ! Blade teeth should have been set first. Every time before sharpening. If not the blade will only last half as long as a new one. Always set up your sharpener with a brand new unused blade first to get the correct angle on the tooth before you sharpen your used blades. That stone on that Dremel looked messed up and rounded on booth sides.Should be straight on tooth side. Your teeth might feel sharp but in reality they wont cut very good for very long. ( Tooth set, then tooth angle cut. Then it will work like a brand new one.)

Not sure about that dremel in my opinion it lacks the hp & amperage needed for get a good grind & your constantly wearing out stones. I would much prefer an angle grinder w/ a very fine grinding wheel. That being said, it's well worth the money to buy a proper TK, Cooks or WM sharpener. I'm running a TK talon and I can fully sharpen a 210in 2in blade in about 3 minutes usually in one pass. Paid for itself in the first 2 weeks.

" . . . a smart guy would be wearing gloves doing this . . ." Yep. PPE, man; it's your best friend.

were not babies.

If you can afford a woodmizer buy it ,you won't regret it . I own an HD36 , WISH I DIDN'T. Oh yes ,it will mill logs ,but the problems and undisclosed information about the mill are numerous. Customer service has also gone to shit .

Always wear gloves

I assume you had a plan when you built that barn, but forgive me for sayin, but it’s the ugliest building I think I’ve seen.

Hi Sir aap ka WhatsApp number send me Mere ko ye machine lena hai 😊