Cheers - very much appreciated, and thank you for watching!

Nice work - and I’m so glad the video was helpful! Thanks for watching!

Cheers Mike - and thanks for watching!

Cheers - and yes… the only time you need to touch the door card for a window related issue is to change the motor if it has failed. Thanks for watching!

Glad it was useful, and thanks for watching! 😊

You are very welcome! Glad it was useful, and thank you for watching!

Glad it helped, and thanks for watching!

Great to hear it was useful - and thank you for watching!

Thanks Axel! Much appreciated 😊

Cheers! I always try to show the process “warts and all”… have always believed that it is the best way to show the tricks tips and workarounds for the problems you are likely to hit along the way - all the stuff we used to have to learn in an apprenticeship; Bit of a running theme on this channel. Thanks for watching!

@@bigtalltim my pleasure, and it was a huge a relief to fix the bloody window. It had stuck half way up. Had to plan my driving if the weather allowed 😂

Good stuff - always great to hear that the vids are useful! Thanks for watching!

Many thanks - glad it was useful, and thank you for watching!

Cheers 😊 thanks for watching!

Really good to hear that it was useful, and thanks for watching! 😊

You are very welcome Sarah - and many thanks for watching!

@@bigtalltim Just finished changing the regulator on my, almost exactly the same spec, mk V Golf. Your video gave me so many pointers and watched it 4 times before attempting to do this job, learning it so well to the point that I knew exactly which item to take out of the socket set for each bolt! One difference on mine was that the bottom of the left runner had a bracket that separates it from the door frame rather than screwed directly to the frame. It seems like this is in place so that the runner is clear of the speaker. Fortunately my replacement regulator had the same bracket so easy to sort. Only big issue I had throughout whole job was getting the door handle back on and it tuns out I had turned the screw inside the door lock too many turns (should be about 12 regardless of if it will go more or not) when removing it. Once I had corrected the position of this screw the door handle went on easily enough. Btw, Tim, thanks for the tip on the socket set including the spline bits. I found it and bought one and ended up using it for most of the bolts, as was better than the set I had.

Awesome to hear - and congrats on completing the job yourself! Not the easiest one in the world, so fair play for taking it on! Really glad the vid was helpful - Thankyou for your comment, and for watching; hopefully some of the other vids will be as helpful! BTT

Much appreciated, and a top tip! Thanks for watching!

Many thanks - and thanks for watching! 😊

Glad it was useful - and thank you for watching!

​@@bigtalltimmy door has been sagging slightly since doing this job, could it be that I didn't tighten the crash bar enough when reassembling?? Any ideas? Thanks again!

Sorry about the late reply - I missed this one! I don’t think that will be your problem… it might just be that the outer skin has gone back on a little lower; loosen the top two torx bolts on the handle end of the door and push it in a little… there is about 4 or 5mm of play the realign with the other panels

You are very welcome Levente - thank you for watching!

You are very welcome - and thank you for watching!

Nice one! - glad it helped, and thanks for watching!

Many thanks 😊 you might be able to work those spline bolts loose with a vice grip (mole wrench) - they shouldn’t be too tight… definitely easier with that bar out of the way. Good luck!

Great to hear it was useful - thanks for watching!

You are very welcome, and many thanks! :)

Many thanks Alberto - and thank you for watching!

My pleasure - thanks for watching!

Hi TK4270! Not sure what that is all about… it does sound like you have been given the wrong part… maybe from a later mark or another model… Passat maybe. Good luck - let us know how it goes!

Cheers - a nice easy job if you take your time! Thanks for watching

Glad it helped! You probably need to reset the auto power windows feature... to do this, start the car, close all the doors and windows, open the window by pressing and holding the switch, and KEEP it pressed for at least 5 seconds after the window is fully open... now close the window by lifting and holding the switch, and when it is fully closed, keep the switch pressed for at least 5 seconds after the window is fully closed. That will tell the control system where the extremes of movement are, and should fix it! Thanks for watching 😊 EDIT: If the above procedure doesn't work, try it with the engine OFF, but the ignition on.

You can sometimes get that effect if it isn’t latched properly… a little counter intuitive, but push the door closed from the outside until it latches properly, then should open. If it was as a result of the work you’ve just done, it would only be the outside handle that didn’t work

​@bigtalltim, thanks that worked! Saved me a fortune really helpful video!

Awesome - thanks for getting back to us on that… great to know it worked, and thanks for watching!

Hi @edquig! There are a few things you could try… vice grips should have enough access (mole grips), you may find that if you stick a piece of cardboard in the stripped out hole there is enough friction to remove, you could angle grind a slot in the end of the bolt and use a big flat blades screwdriver, or if you have welding gear, weld on a nut and use a ring spanner or socket…

You are very welcome - thank you for watching!

Hi Tom - yes… it is a good idea to raise the glass all the way to the top before locking those clamps in place… never commit to locking the glass before you are certain that it is in the correct place. (It doesn’t handle stress well!!) I’m afraid I don’t have a vid on the weather strips - will try to get that done next couple of days! Thanks for watching! 🙏

Hi Maximus! Not sure to be honest - as far as I know with all of the different types available after market the only cable tie that should remain is the one right in the middle of the bow tie shape… pretty close to the motor, but not attached…

Awesome - always good to hear that the vids are useful! Good job with fixing your window, and thanks for watching! 😊

Hi Zach - I believe so, yes. Is a similar process on many other VWs too - passats for instance

Have you got the bottom edge under or over the door? Is easy to line it up wrong and if you have it in the wrong place it will never line up…

@@bigtalltim it's under the door

Ok… have a close look at the bottom corner where the metal is folded round to shape the outer panel; it is possible that one or other of the edges of the skin is on the wrong side of the door panel… start with the bolts along the bottom, then the front edge finishing with the handle end of the door - wear leather gloves too… those edges can be sharp! Let us know how it goes

Thank you for the extensive advice. I'll be back with an update on how it unfolds.

Hi Richard - unfortunately not… the latch mechanism connector has a certain amount of adjustment based on how far along the slot you put the little plastic connector. It sounds like the outside handle that is the problem, so should still open from the inside - once you get it open, try moving the plastic block in the slot closer to the outside of the door so that the handle has more “bite”… should do the trick

@@bigtalltim really appreciate the reply Tim, I will try adding some tension to the cable ( assuming I can get in) 😂 as you suggest

It should definitely open from the inside handle - you’ll just have to climb in through the passenger side 😉

Hi Jay - couple of things… it sounds for sure like the motor is on the way out, and that is more likely the brushes than a busted cog, but that is a different job. I think your big enemy here though is friction. You can help the motor out by reducing friction in the slides that hold the glass in place - it could be that crap has just built up in them over the years, and whilst it was nice and slippery over the damp winter months, it has dried out now and is hampering the winding. You’d need to experiment with lubricants, but silicone would be a fairly safe starting point. I’d open with using a toothbrush to clean the guides, then a cotton bud to apply some lube to the slots… you will be able to see if that has an effect without taking the door skin off, and then finish the job if it has a beneficial effect! good luck - let us know how it goes!

@@bigtalltim hey man, the motor seems fine! i got the door skins off today, and removed the regulator - so i can put my window up. i will tomorrow buy some regulators and try and replace the two rear ones that have the issues. the only issue i had was getting the handle off, and getting it back on (i cant get the retaining screw to line up on the handle). looks like im going to have to do it all over again anyway to change the locks too.. theyre both not locking properly. also, the handle sits a bit soggy now.. i will try to fix that tomorrow by holding it out and redoing that t20 screw out and back in

@@bigtalltim also the reason the window wouldnt go up was due to the regulator wire binding on itself and falling out.. it would not budge!

@jaywalker7622 cool - if something doesn’t line up, double check the bottom corner of the door skin… if it is under rather than over you can get that effect - take your time, and if something needs to be forced, don’t!! Everything should line up perfectly - re the doors, make sure you mark the plastic tag position before removing it from the handle mechanism… they are surprisingly sensitive to changes! Good luck!

@@bigtalltim cheers,it probably is a matter of under rather than over, i think all of them are under in fact lol

Shhhhh - you'll blow my cover ;) {*headshot*}