Great presentation of generalizable information. This is the first video of yours I’ve seen and you’ve earned my subscription. Thanks!

Would be interesting to see how the flow rate changes when using a volcano configuration.

Very well laid out, understandable test! I'm very interested in high speed accurate printing and will be watching for your next video!

Nozzle size DOES effect usable flow rate. If you refer to E3D's article on the release of the Super Volcano, you can see they achieved quite a bit more flow out of a 0.8mm nozzle than a 0.4mm nozzle. Great video bud!

The best answer to this question to date. Thank you!!

Wow, great test Thanks for sharing :-)

Finally, someone who has put the work into some actual speed settings. Excellent information and a good starting point for someone who has just upgraded. I actually have the Matrix clone of this, so I am applying similar settings to yours with great success. I'm using this on an Artillery Sidewinder X1 that is far from its original specification and despite the weight of the new extruder, I have never seen the extruder move so fast with great precision on my printer. Thank you. I would be interested in seeing a follow up to this for balanced settings of speed and quality (Jerk, acceleration, outer shell speeds, etc).

Love your videos

I would really like to see similar tests for other hotends (mosquito, mosquito magnum) and hemera + volcano

Comparing with the 10mm^3/s that E3D claims shows your tests are very accurate and consistent on a thing that is not easy at all to measure Great video! thanks =)

I'm able to push PETG through the Hermera .4 nozzle, at .3 layer height, 250C, 200mm/s print speed on walls and infills. This works for quick prototyping. Not quality prints. As someone commented you can cheat a little by jacking up your temperatures and then pushing a lot more filament.

Awesome work doing this testing! Have you seen the 3DSolex "Matchless" nozzle? It's the size of a normal nozzle but the path splits for more surface area. They claim it can do 30mm^3/s which sounds incredible but I've only seen two videos of someone using one and they weren't very extensive in testing. It's also pretty expensive, they are like $30 per nozzle.

Thanks bro

I really like my Hemera. I have been printing CF PETG (Atomic and 3DXtech) at 15mm^3/s and 255deg. with it. I’m also using a copper heat block, titanium heartbreak and a 0.4mm tungsten carbide nozzle. At layers 0.6mm wide x 0.3mm high, It prints all around at ~93mm/s and 1000mm/s^2 acceleration, while maintaining excellent layer bonding and finish. I did design and build my own printer to eliminate the ringing issues attributed to belt drives and flimsy frames, so it can print very well at those speeds - that also helps.

Really interesting! What printer did you use for testing?

Hooray more testing and experiments! 😸 It's interesting that your "10.9mm³/s" measured maximum flow rate is very close to the "based on V6" flow rate given in the Hemera datasheet. 10.9mm³/s is 654mm³/min, and the Hemera datasheet states 600mm³/min "dependent on filament". Nice to see that they match so well! @10:12 the credit for that acceleration/max-speed graph calculation thing is the "RepRap Calculator" Web page that Prusa's hosted forever, and its URL is blog.prusaprinters.org/calculator_3416/ rather than "blog.prusaprints.org" ("printers", not "prints"), as shown in the video ;) ... I wonder how many Hermes-branded extruders are still waiting to be installed, like mine is... How long until I have the only yet-to-be-mounted "Hermes"‽ 😂

If you redo the test with higher temperature you will find that you can extrude faster. The volcano numbers are publicly available, still haven't seen a flow rate test of the mosquito magnum though. That would be my wish.

Excellent video. Id have loved to see what temperature adjustments would do to increase flow rate. So at the higher speeds, the flow rate suffers because the thermal transfer to melt the filament isnt high enough. Increased nozzle temp would improve higher flow rate.

You should try gyroid infill or a print with sharp turns. It will exaggerate whether the filament is too cold to stick to itself and may give a different result compared to straight lines.

What if you use the peak flow rate to print some benchmark models like benchy or sunshine engine test?

CONGRATULATIONS FOR YOUR VIDEO AND YOUR PROJECT. COULD YOU LINK WHERE YOU CAN FIND THE .STL FOR THE ASSEMBLY OF THE HEMERA?

I haven't even got a 3d printer but this is so interesting to watch haha, I'm subbed :)

Ok the video is awesome thank you... But damn I just want to be able to buy a hemera already. Been trying for months to grab one and missed out on that short release supply in july.

Did you test with the aluminum or copper heater block?

finally a KZfaqr acknowledging other KZfaqrs

The dip in the graph might be due to some of the strange non newtonian properties of molten plastics. It's not uncommon to experience lower viscosity at certain higher flowrates/sheer stresses. It's a problem you often run into in the world of injection moulding where the molten plastic is moving quite fast.

Very interesting

I use the hotend volcano, and curious how the super volcano compares maximum flow rate in the same test parameters made with your v6 data.

Good video, just what I was asking myself when I searched in KZfaq. You've got my sub, however, reference to CNC Kitchen would be nice. Also, all the decisions taken at slow speed, should be reviewed at high speed I think. Increasing the temp in particular may lead to ability to drive the printer faster. Alternativelly putting a high flow hot end (also this is outside the scope of this video)...

You needed to translate the 94mm/s @ .3mm (with what nozzle again??) into .2 .16 & .12 layer heights.

You should also compare the nozzle and heater block with the standard V6 the volcano and the supervolcano

Are you going to finish your dyze review?

I'd like to see the same test done on an Ender 3 Pro.. which is what i have myself (still learning about 3D printing myself)

Can anyone point me to the mechanics of running the final set of tests, specifically how to extrude filament at different flow rates? I have the hemera and a volcano hot end and want to find the difference between the v6 and volcano.

the thick extrusions at the right side of your array I often see with to cool a hotend. I think you missed one more test which was increasing the hotend temp to the values that performed the same at 220. I wonder if you might have gotten more speed. Will you try it?

I wonder if some of the difference in flow rate can attributed to variance in the filament diameter. I've measured diameters of 170-180mm from the same roll of filament. Very good information never the less. Thank you.

Could the flow rate be increased above 10.9 and still achieve the same quality if the temp was increased? Maybe the filament is not being melted fast enough when the flow rate is above 11 🤔

Isn’t the flow rate mainly controlled by the hot end and not so much the extruder? Your test showed that the Hemera is able to cold extrude filament and overwhelm the hotend. Which is a good thing in my opinion. I’ve had many extruder that won’t skipsteps but will chew up the filament instead. So it seems like the Hemera is a good extruder design.

"You can't just build a rigid frame, steppers, and crank it to 11". And here I am with my no compromise build, 240lb, cnc machined frame, linear rails pushing most filaments through a titan aero at 250-300mm/s...

I've bought a Hemera, Volcano, some big steppers and making a ridged frame.. I hope this video has a happy ending!

The squed data may be pid tuning going from pulsing to staying on 100%

hi nice one ))) very good video) on the video time 10-43 what is the speed - i gues the perimeter is 100m and the nozzle goes it 1.8 seconds so the actual speed is 55 mm per second

This all seems good advice to me, but still it’s easy to get over paranoid about e-steps. There is no universally correct steps value as each filament type will extrude slightly different amounts. The hobed gears in the extruder bite into the filament and if it is soft, or the loading lever has higher tension, they will bite deeper than if it is hard and/or the loading lever is lightly tensioned. If they bite deep, the circle the gears “describe” as they turn is smaller, so less “distance” of filament is extruded for a given esteps value. Given this variability it is probably best to calibrate e-steps against your most used filament or just use the factory default. Either way, for best results you will need to adjust the slicer extrusion multiplier on a filament by filament basis. Not to mention different filament vendors are more or less accurate to 1.75 diameter and concentricity. Also because filament is extruded as a round sausage cross section but the mathematically ideal extrusion would be square or oblong, there is not even such thing as an ideal extrusion amount per filament. It depends on what you want of the print. If you try to extrude the exact volume of filament as the normal values described by your model, you will be forcing the round extruded cross section to squeeze fully in to occupy all the space of an ideal oblong cross section. Extruding precisely the correct volume will generally make a print look aesthetically over-extruded, but it will be mechanically strongest. If you want it to look aesthetically nice you will be allowing to a greater or lesser extent small gaps in the print. It won’t be mechanically quite so strong but it will look a bit nicer. So basically it’s less of a science than people pretend it is. The math gets you in the ballpark. But I don’t know anyone who calculates it all scientifically and then doesn’t tweak the extrusion multiplier because it doesn’t look quite right to feel mechanically, quite right 🤣

hi which touch screen are you using on your form bot and how much does it cost

5:25 ... nice vase mode

I assume these test are done with a 0.4 nozzle? And is that flowrate tied to nozzle size? My thinking is if heater can actualy melt stuff faster as higher temp, and extrude more with a bigger nozzle. For example, i use .6 on my delta, a flsun qq-s, and i get much better printing results at the same flowrate (i go around 13mm/s) vs a 0.4 nozzle. Again, great testing.

Man I still can’t find a hemera in stock anywhere. Does anyone know where there still available?

I’ve purchased this extruded on its release date. I’ve not yet set it up on my Prusa Mk3s.... is it really worth using?

A large circle print with increased speed with a large nozzle would be the best way to increase the flow rate

It prints really fast, until it doesn't. I had constant problems with mine. The gears are too fine and fragile. Sold all 6 of them and switched to OmniaDrop

Is it me or did that final print speed look like normal speed? I found a channel called MirageC where he tunes his printer to run as fast as he can, he got it to 800mm/s

Please do the ender 3

I belive that the limit on how fast can print is in the filament not in the printer. If the filament can melt very fast you can go really fast but if you have a good extruder but the filament melt slow, there is no way you can print fast no matter what printer o extruder we use.

u know that u can always set high speed but limit flow rate ? then u can always print max speed to flow rate

that steel tube seems like a bit of a waste of filament

Volcano?

the limiting factor is the Inferior design of the v6 hotend underneath the hemera, it's not optimized at all to melt plastic quickly and accurately, the thermal transfer to the filament is pretty meh and the backpressure too high to run it fast, I'd love to see the hemera paired up to a good, high end hotend

Have they finally run out of Hermes boxes.

It would have been nice to have more prints at faster speeds to validate your assumptions.

I would like to see this teat done again at 240 or more, working on the idea the material at a higher speed spends less time in the hot end causing the viscosity to stay to high to get the flow right? Would a higher temp on the hot end help it achieve better viscosity in a shorter time? Any thoughts, I'm curious on opinions

The ideal temp test doesnt make sense. You only tested for which temperatures reduced flow at that speed of extrusion. At a higher speed of extrusion a higher temp may have helped but you wouldnt know from that testing.

So get a rigid frame, big steppers and crank it to 10.9 instead of 11. Thanks

Ummm I print at 80mm/s with a 1mm nozzle, 0.5 layers 1.5 width and a super volcano. So this is more of just a generic how to tune your extruder to your hot end video, not really anything to do with the hemera….The reason why your extrusion is matte is because the temp is too low, I can get the same results by dropping temp while keeping everything the same. So TLTR you just tested your hot end not the hemera. Probably at the higher flow rate your extrusion was coming out at 190 or under..

Unfortunately this is all pretty much pointless at this stage as E3D does seem to sell them anymore.

Your cheap scale is neither precise nor accurate (in the scientific term). If it were precise but not accurate, you could just calibrate it.