Appreciate it man! Not many people can appreciate a clean “reliable” built car which is what I’m goin for

Even as an SN95 owner, the Mach 1s aren't a good power benchmark lol. Nearly the fastest trim you could get on these cars and still only on par with a regular Chevy SS of the same decade

@@foreverdrivin6725 I don’t agree there. My 2001 GT stock went 13.60’s @ 100 flat. Much of what happens to the GT’s are guys rev them to the limiter, and the PI’s are done at 5700. They loose power after that pretty substantially. So just flat foot shifting at 5700 got me 13.60’s at Darlington. The car wasn’t a freak, it put down the standard 230ish stock. I raced plenty of Camaros and Trans Ams when it was stock and ran similar times give or take a tenth depending on who was driving. I could get 13.20’s in a stock Mach1 manual. The autos had the slush box in them and were slower by a lot

@@gr8whitestang613 Yeah those older slush boxes are not optimal lol. Need manuals in older cars for speed. You're running 13.6s on stock? Most stock 3Vs run 13.5s at absolute best, with an extra 40-60hp so idk if you're exaggerating or if you're just one hell of a driver! Get yourself in a 3V and maybe do a comparison 1/4th lol

@@gr8whitestang613 Do you recommend changing the PI? If so which ones are best

Easily

Costs more than $2500 for the turbo swap. Need a k member and a tune on top of the $2500. Close to $4000

@@sategllib2191 i mean, I wasn't really counting the tune and extra parts since you could dump money everywhere when making double the factory whp, but regardless my point still stands. You're better off spending 4k (or more, because more power means more failure points) on a turbo setup, rather then 4k on bolt ons that you'll be lucky to see anywhere near 300 whp from. Right?

@@blkspec9973 yeah, you could get 300 wheel with bolt ons, cams and npi pistons. But still gonna be damn near the cost of the turbo anyways in the end, unless you do some serious bargain and used market shopping. All just depend on what you want to do

Thanks man! Yeah I live in Maine so I need cats. Also if I took them out I would need to wear earplugs, its already super loud as is 😂 the Borla ATAKs are no joke

That’s whats up dude! Hoping mine will be around 400 when I’m done doing this next setup, this is taking forever tho haha

im also running a fatter throttle body, intake manifold, and its tuned on e85.

@@Septagrim mod list? Also whats some good front tires brand , im going with 315 toyo r888 for the back

@@Marios2v for a good street tire id go for a Michelin PS4S up front, good in all weather conditions and they seem to corner well

Coyote 3-5k depending , control pack 1-2k , youll need to upgrade the transmission if you want longevity. Couple other things as well I believe. You make it seem as if its 5k and wham bam you can swap a coyote. Its easier in new edges, easiest if im remembering correctly, but its not a 5k in and out thing by any means. Better have at least 8k for parts alone and if you have 8k laying around just sell the new edge for 5-6k and buy a coyote car.

@@issasnipe8824 it could easily be done for 8k. You can get the tr3650 trans built for like a grand and it is good to go. I would get an f150 motor to save money and get a cj intake and l&m intake cams with the money you save from not getting a mustang engine and it would bring it up to mustang specs and beyond. The main difference in the f150 version is the intake manifold and intake cams so go ahead and upgrade those to better than stock mustang spec and you can make some good power. You could have a good gen 1 f150 motor with a ported cj and l&m intake only cams for 5 grand or less all in. That is a North of 450 rwhp setup all day regaurdless of fuel.

That’s about 6000.00 dollars I been thinking about it for my 04

@@hermanrogers1325 might as well sell the mustang and use that 6k for a down payment on a terminator

I plan on it! Just got a go pro and I’m working on building a PC to hopefully put together some decent videos. Should all be put together in a week or two

He doesn’t have good knowledge on his car lol. He said that’s an sn95 which I here made between 1994-98 and he says his is a 02 which is a new edge, which was made between 99-04 and makes more power and looks better. Should you really be moding you car if you don’t even know the right name?

@@thecoolestdude90 a new edge is an sn95 lol

@@luisuribe5432 yes technically they are all sn95 from 94-04 but the 99-04 are referred to as new edge.

390? That’s pretty weak for a SC

@@shawnlack1527 Non Intercooled/Conservative Tune, it could have been tuned to 425+...but the Mod Motors stock rods don't like 450+ hp! Besides 390rwhp is 170 over Stock RWHP (it is over a 75% increase)!

Damn dude, sounds like you’ve got quite the build goin on. I’m still waiting on my intake, ordered a trick flow back in March and it probably won’t get here till November haha. Heads and cams definitely make a huge difference, but I also just went built motor which made it a whole new animal. Got a couple videos on it if you want to check them out, still trying to get a dyno tune though

I bought my 03 GT last year, already had DNA Catless xpipes with the SLP Loudmouth II’s. No muffler ofcourse.

Honestly slp sound like garbage without cat's. The slp in the new edge and sn95 cars are honestly the worst sounding mufflers for our cars.

I've had a 99 GT for two months and the guy I bought it from was a mechanic and he had put some exhaust and exterior mods on it but the engine is pretty much stock so I want to i n c r e a s e h o r s e p o w e r without spending toooo much

@@Cubemaster I'd say your best bet would be some basic bolt ons, rear end gears, and a short throw. Ours has a Hurst, and its amazing.

@@NitroTaki2002 Haha it's an automatic so no short throw for me. But I'm waiting to see if either the Borla Stinger catback or the Flowmaster American Thunder catback goes on sale this black friday/cyber monday.

If he has a perfectly functioning pi bottom end why would he buy a new block then take his entire engine apart just to gain a point of compression? Prob judt shave the heads get the same result

​@@lollol-xp4mc its called being on a budget. you can pick up a full NPI block for about $100-$200 depending on location. The PI heads and intake on a NPI bottom usually net about 40-50hp more over the full PI combo. With turbos at 14.7PSI you can usually expect just under double horsepower of the NA config which would get you atleast that 50hp over a guy with PI bottom. All of that for $200. Yea shave the head and have a valve kiss the piston and have slight timing issues. And as far as taking the engine apart, thats part of the game when it comes to building power.

@@undeadexile2485 If you're on a budget then you're not running turbos.

@@Chanesaw328 i don't think budget means the same thing to you and me. it doesnt matter who is doing the work or what you are working on, jus try doubling your horsepower without forced induction. Any NA motor with $5000 dumped into will never perform like that same motor with $2500 dumped into and a $2500 turbo kit. Anyone on a budget should be running turbos otherwise you are either wasting time or not being serious.

That’s strange, never heard of that happening from the pulleys. My issue was that my fan fuse and startup sensor were both fried, must’ve happened well before I got the car cuz when I fixed them the fan was literally locked in place haha

Yeah I would’ve done the same thing but I live in Maine and chose to have a reliable year round vehicle over an expensive toy

c’mon man, any v8 car can be built but it’s not a MANS car unless it’s a manual v8.

Yeah I thought about that but I read up on it and I guess the trick flow heads are only slightly better than the ported P.I. Heads, so it would be more cost effective for me to just port the heads I already have than to buy new ones

Nope, it’s to the wheels. Just found the Dyno sheet a couple days ago, will probably post it on my Instagram as proof haha

@@ajwiley1348 damn, thats wild!

That’s what’s up dude. Just ported my heads as well while the block was in the machine shop, interested to see how much of a difference it makes. Stock intake manifold for now tho

Thanks man, I appreciate it! Workin on somethin else to get it to 400+, taking forever though, hope to have it done in the next couple weeks

Thanks man! Appreciate it

I don’t have a restrictor plate or anything, it usually depends on how I get on the throttle and I was in my neighborhood so I only gave it about half. Going to make another video soon where I really get on it

The lite weight fly wheel is what’s killing the rev hang

I’m running the Coyote 1 inch billet spacers, I’ve had them for about 2 years and there hasn’t been any issues

Thanks man! The only thing “illegal” on my car is the headlights because they’re tinted, and there’s no smog inspection in Maine, just need to have cats and mufflers which I have

Still has the stock ratio which I believe is 3.27. Haven’t felt the need to change them, rips through gears as it is and already spins 1st/2nd with the cams

Oh, that’s awesome! I like knowing what ppl do with their SN95 and why. I’d think you’d need a shorter gear ratio w/ stage 3 cams. Guess not if it works. Thanks for the reply.

Yup, I sure did

Not a “claim”, ended up finding the dyno sheet after this, it’s posted on my Instagram. Just had a really good tuner I guess

@@ajwiley1348 Nit trying to bash you man, but it is easy to manipulate dyno correction factors. I had the 270 AH Comp Cams in my GT as well. Factory PI lower, Accufab upper with 75mm TB, Mac LT’s, Bassanni catted X, Borla catback, ported factory MAF, Densecharger CAI, Steeda UD pullies, .30 over with flat top pistons, stock heads. This ended up with the motor being 12.5 :1 compression. Car put 330 down running out of injector, maybe 20 left on table, maybe. ProDyno in SC tuned the car. He has tuned plenty of cammed 2V cars and was a sponsor at Mustang week for years. Pretty standard to see 270ish on cammed cars with exhaust. 99% of the mod tuners with good reputations will tell you that you won’t break 300 without compression or cubes with our mods. Even at that, the factory plastic intake is a choke point, which is why Trickflow developed there own version of a Bullitt style intake. At 5700 the factory intake is done so even our cams weren’t fully benefitted with the factory intake. Just some info from a bunch of years messing with the mod motors. I have been through good tuners and shitters. There are definitely folks out there who will be you to get you money. But when the motor cracks up, they will take ZERO responsibility for a crap tune or crappy setup degree job on cams. That is why I learned to do as much as possible myself. And when I get something tuned, I am there watching what is going on with the AFR, CF, fuel table, spark table, etc.

Yeah I’ve heard these can get pretty spicy with nos, just don’t expect it to be reliable unless you put extra work in too haha

Yeah I got the beehive valve springs and retainers that were recommended to go with it. Also had a valve job done prior to the install cuz it had like 95,000 on it or somethin, and I recently had my heads ported

​@@ajwiley1348did you uave to buy new cam gears too?

@@ajwiley1348 im currently having issues with my heads , apparently I have low compression on one of the heads , you think I should get them rebuilt and install beehive valve springs , retainers and do a cam job while im already in there?

Yeah you might as well, much easier to just do it all at once, it’ll save a bunch of time and money. And as far as the cam gears go, it was so long ago I can’t remember, but I’m pretty sure I did change to adjustable ones

Go watch the video I did about my exhaust! I talk about everything exhaust related 👍

I just see that too. From Maine to!

I did not but I did have a valve job done just to have them fresh, don’t quote me on this but I believe these heads can support .550 lift cams, and these max it out

@@ajwiley1348 I was gonna put stage 3 cams on my car but afraid of clearance issues

@@jaydenscott5028hey bro prob already solved this by now but I’m doing the stage 4 from comp cams (274s) and don’t need to do any notching or anything I think if you stay under the .500-.550 lift your good with any cam other than 278s but don’t quote me on that

Or will it be the same thing

I would say to buy the cat back, unless you’re looking to do something extra special like quad tips or something. If you want good work done it would probably end up being much more expensive than just buying it and having a shop throw it on

Dang dude that’s what’s up, what else you running to pull that kind of power?

@@ajwiley1348 eh just a little bit of nitrous but shhh tell no one

@@lildrezz2350 maybe a supercharger lol

@@javierzendejas8803 nah

What have you done to the transmission. I know how to build engines but I’m not sure on what transmission upgrades needed.

Not currently, I tried to make a video of it before I put the car away but the tires were too far gone so I just spun the whole time haha. Putting new tires on in the spring and I’ll try again

@@ajwiley1348 ahh ok, well I love the car and I'll be looking forward to finding out that time in spring, good luck!

I got mine tuned at a dyno tune shop when I got cams, but I’m sure you can go to any performance shop and get it tuned if you’re just doing headers for now. When I did headers I just ordered a bama tuner through AmericanMuscle and told them my specs, they sent me the handheld tuner with a custom tune loaded on it, but that’s all I had on the car at the time

Yeah, I got the comp cams beehive valve springs and the steel valve spring retainers

Yeahhh no one ever believes it haha, here’s a link to my insta with a pic of the dyno sheet instagram.com/p/CGfYOeFF3fE/?igshid=nfomwfzzmrb7

Americanmuscle.com, I believe LMR sells it too

That’s what’s up man. Not really anything too special to look for unless you live up north, they’re pretty rust prone. There’s a huge aftermarket selection for these cars and a lot of people that know how to work on them and tune them, so as long as you have a clean body as a starting point, you should be fine

@@ajwiley1348 sweet thanks for the advice man i live in so cal so rust isn’t really a problem unless the car been park over grass for years but what mods would you recommend i do to the car first? or should i focus on better steering and handling then performance mods?

I personally would set it up with coilovers and wheels/ tires first, makes it look more aggressive and sets it up so it’s easier to handle more power. Then probably intake/full exhaust, then heads and cams. All up to what you’re goin for at first tho

They are so old at this point there is very few left… you just might be better off looking for something else. If you do get one it probably needs a whole new suspension. I mean everything.. control arms and all new bushings.. you’re talking $3000 to do that…

@@keithbellair9508 yeah i kinda came to this point already. I know a few of my neighbors that have them in pretty good/ decent condition but they wanted like 15k+ for it as much as i love the new edge mustangs i already bought my 2014 infiniti q60

Someone told this boy a lie. He bought the car like that and not knowing any better Someone sold him a magic mustang

@@chrissmith2009 this kid needs someone to just sit down with him and help him.

@@lsmustangx9010 i had a similar setup and only made 282. After my kb 2.3 made a little over 400. Wish I knew him when I sold it. It would have been a cobra lmao

The car actually makes 314 its on his Instagram, could be the bigger injectors helping, but those cams really did push the power up

Car makes 314 hp 331 torque it’s on his ig

Haven’t had time to hit a strip yet, I work nights and weekends so it makes it hard to make it to any events, and the car has been down for the entire season this year

Yeah I messed up, they were 1.5 inches which is only 30mm, still not sure why I said 105 haha

94-98 Mustangs but technically the 99-04 is also a SN95 because they share the same chassis

it refers to the chassis code.. 'sn95' = 94-98 Musangs and 'New Edge' is 99-04 Mustangs.

No issues in the few years I’ve been running them, changing my setup soon tho that should make it even safer... ported heads, Stroker kit, and a few other things

Probably sheer luck tbh haha, I did it like 5 years ago and knew nothing about engines back then

The stock PI pistons have a small dish. Couple that with factory 530 lift and not to much worry. I had same cams in a flat top piston 4.6 that made considerably more at the tire. Just degree them in right.

@@gr8whitestang613 the dish doesn't help the piston still has the lip where the valves hit. always good to check em.

@@joem3970 not sure how you have PTV contact on the edge of the piston. They are canted in the stock heads which cause the valve to contact closer to center if not timed right. The angle of the intake and exhaust ports have some bearing on the angle of the valves. I have smiley faced a few in my SOHC adventures, every one has been closer to center.

Parts were probably a total of about 4K , labor ended up being about that too cuz I had the whole upper end redone when I did the cams

So for 8k dollars you ended up with 320 whp 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ Jesus christ bro

Don’t see why not! Only thing that should be different is you will need to have your trans tuned as well to accommodate the extra hp, torque, and power ban

@@ajwiley1348 awesome. Thanks for the response man. I definitely want to do these mods.

Matt no all that is good for 15 maybe 20

@@hermanrogers1325 wrong, all that is most likely between 30-60hp more than stock..

Been a while since I got ‘em so I can’t recall the brand but they’re 30lb injectors, and yeah, still runnin the original MAF

Haven’t been able to take it to the track yet because I work nights and weekends, but I plan on getting new tires over the winter and making time for it next spring

To the wheel, I have my dyno sheet on my Instagram, I think I have a link in the description

@@ajwiley1348 duh didnt open description because im a dumbass sorry... liked the vid have a 2000 gt new edge vert that im new to..drunk totaled my 2002 ws6 and while im rebuilding i picked up the mustang tho my backyard mechanic lost my only key and tried to fix it by buying a junkyard ignition out of who knows what and so my car wont start anymore..im sitting here looking at a chrome set of long tubes, programmer, and throttle body..car already had lower springs, american mustang red traction bars, and american mustang cai.. as it sit or wasb4 this key thing it would boil tires at a stomp of gas pedal but has the full pi winsor engine stock with a hole in muffler...thought it was a cat back nope..

@@beachsidebum Bet you loved that 2v sound..lol TrickFlow heads n cams with a stroker 5.0L kit should put you over 400whp, build that 2v.. Just to be clear, ws6 is a gm car??

@@P71ScrewHead yeah do a search for " 2002 Trans Am WS6 Convertible" for sale mine was 1 of 142

@@beachsidebum I looked at a few built ones, they look 👀 nice.. Kinda rare to see a Chevy ls guy go from that to a 2v but welcome to the 2v world 🌎 man.. Love my lil workhorses..

It’s not hard with ether the gt only has 50 more so all you have to do is get a tune cold air intake and fuel injectors and a turbo and then your at well over 300 your looking at 400-500 hp

No idea what brand it is as the car had the hood when I bought it, but it is a 3 inch cowl, pretty sure you can find them on Americanmuscle.com

I do not, haven’t measured it out to see the exact mileage either, seems about the same though

@@ajwiley1348 is your car also tuned on 93?

Yeah, it is

Hey did you put the cams right in or did you have to notch pistons?

Best way to do that would probably be either follow my route then add ported heads and intake manifold, or turn it into a stroker with forged internals. Or you could always just go the cheaper route and throw some forced induction at it early on, but that’s pretty dangerous with these stock internals